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Godholio posted:I don't for one second believe you gain that much. Every manufacturer would be mandating for every vehicle to pick up a 4% gain in mpg. They'd be tripping over each other to do it. I believe it. Simply overfilling oil on a Prius causes a noticeable drop.
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Apr 3, 2018 06:53
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That's from crank splashing and happens in any wet sump vehicle. The smaller the engine power output, the greater the loss percentage. Surface to surface friction losses are a different matter
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Apr 3, 2018 07:05
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So my brother has a Chevy Trailblazer with the 4.2L inline six, a 2006 if I remember correctly. His CEL has been coming on intermittently. I scanned it over the weekend and it has a pending P0014 fault - 'B' camshaft position - timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 1). Some research indicated that this could be an oil starvation issue. I was originally thinking camshaft sensor. Now he says his oil pressure light is coming on. I asked and he said it's a yellow light, so I'm not sure it's the actual oil pressure light, but I'm not familiar with GMs at all. When I checked (warm engine) it looked like he had plenty of oil, but my concern is for his oil pump. I am having him check his oil level when the engine is cold, but what's the next step - verifying oil pressure? Is there something common with these engines that causes these problems? It sounds like the CEL comes on for cold starts then goes away.
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Apr 3, 2018 14:56
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2006 Scion xB Automatic 160k miles Backstory; The belt that drives the WP/AC/PS broke. This happened either the night before or morning of it totally dying at an intersection. The time is uncertain because my better half said she heard a sound and thought she ‘hit a squirrel’ the night before. It’s also possible the little distance that was traveled she wouldn’t notice the PS or AC working. The obvious worry here is driving without the WP working and overheating In addition, the funky, 120A fusible link for ALT (located in the box located on the positive battery cable, near the terminal) was blown and I had to order it from the dealer Now today comes and I’ve replaced the belt, replaced the fusible link and charged up the battery that was dead. She starts and drives it... good as new. She goes to mcds, drops her kid off at school, then goes into a store. When she comes out she starts it and she reports it was ‘shuttering’ horribly. She turns it off and on a couple times with no change. I leave work to go and take a look By the time I get there it starts and runs fine and we get it home without incident. Home was barely far enough away to get it up to temp. Is there a chance the WP not working has caused some damage that only manifests at running temps? From the symptoms she described, I thought one of the aging, brittle vacuum hoses had popped off, but it running fine once cooled off suggests that isn’t what’s going on e; Also the speedometer is inexplicably now not working Dr.Caligari fucked around with this message at 17:36 on Apr 3, 2018 |
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Apr 3, 2018 17:33
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That sounds to me like a failed water pump, followed by an overheating engine due to lack of coolant flow through the block. Bad news is if that's what happened its highly probable that the head is now warped. I'd definitely stop driving it until you can pull the water pump and inspect it.
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Apr 3, 2018 19:31
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 2007 Malibu - Rear passenger coil snapped. Can I safely limp this thing along for a few days? I only put 5-10 miles on a day, and none of it is highway. I was able to get the loose part free so it doesn't catch on anything. I was planning on replacing the car anyways in a couple months, but this plus the multitude of other issues may have just accelerated that decision.
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Apr 3, 2018 20:00
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NinjaPablo posted:
No. Do not drive that unless it’s onto a flatbed.
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Apr 3, 2018 20:01
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NinjaPablo posted:
Wow, it snapped but somehow is still lined up properly on the perch?!
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Apr 3, 2018 20:07
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Guess I'm just lucky. Thanks, will park it.
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Apr 3, 2018 20:09
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Martytoof posted:Where can I find the pinout for a Ford 2007 F150 wiper motor? I don't actually have an F150 but I want to use the wiper motor for a project and I'm having an uncomfortably difficult time finding this simple information. I gather this motor was used across a number of mid-2000 Fords. Part number is 2L2F-17D539-AD. I'd rather not buy a Haynes manual just to figure this out :[
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Apr 3, 2018 21:27
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Martytoof posted:Where can I find the pinout for a Ford 2007 F150 wiper motor? I don't actually have an F150 but I want to use the wiper motor for a project and I'm having an uncomfortably difficult time finding this simple information. I gather this motor was used across a number of mid-2000 Fords. Part number is 2L2F-17D539-AD. I'd rather not buy a Haynes manual just to figure this out :[ I'm no expert on car stuff but GIS seems to find this that looks about right: https://www.justanswer.com/mercury/5v9j9-2007-mercury-grand-marquis-burnt-wiper-motor.html and Autozone says the 2007 grand marquis wiper motor also fits a lot of Fords: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/wiper-motor/cardone-reman-wiper-motor/708998_357427_0 I'd guess it's the right connector and checking which side the offset pins are on will show if you're looking at the connector on the motor or the cable.
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Apr 4, 2018 00:33
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I still can't track down the vacuum leak on my '88 F150. I swapped out the IAC valve for an OE one. It's helped a bit with surging, but my engine still likes to die whenever I take my my truck out of gear and my foot off the gas once it's warmed up. Yes I've tried the propane trick 3 times now, no surges from that. I've done new a new fuel pump, new regulator, new filters, etc. How hard is it to get a throttle body rebuilt? Does anyone know any place that does it? Rockauto only seems to have the automatic version of my truck's throttle body available, and it seems to have an extra nipple coming off of it that my manual throttle body doesn't have and I don't know what it's for. I may as well ask this too. Why the hell does my throttle body have that coolant line running through it? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 04:29 on Apr 4, 2018 |
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Apr 4, 2018 04:27
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NinjaPablo posted:Guess I'm just lucky. Thanks, will park it. I mean, if you can, that's the best choice. But I'd drive on that veeeeeeery carefully if I had to.
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Apr 4, 2018 05:02
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kid sinister posted:Why the hell does my throttle body have that coolant line running through it? On older cars (back in the days when ECUs where dumb as bricks and not really "computers") there is often a thermostat controlled valve, fed by coolant, that allows more air through when cold to raise the idle a bit.
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Apr 4, 2018 07:21
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Isn't it there to prevent carb icing?
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Apr 4, 2018 10:05
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spog posted:Isn't it there to prevent carb icing? Maybe on some cars, but I know 90s Hondas, for example, had them on EFI cars. They call it a "cold fast idle valve", essentially a second idle valve that's coolant-controlled. The computer wasn't powerful enough to raise idle based on coolant temp, so the second valve was there to make the car idle faster when the engine was cold. Once coolant warms up, that valve shuts and the only idle air is what comes through the electronic-controlled idle valve. Incidentally that's what causes those cars to have that galloping idle they're known for developing. The computer is smart enough to tell when the coolant is above or below some set point; below that point it'll let the engine idle as high as it wants, above it it cuts fuel/spark above like 1500 rpm. When the cold idle valve seizes open as it often does, now you've got both that and the electronic idle valve passing air to the engine, so it wants to idle high, but the computer cuts the engine at that speed, so it revs up -> cuts -> falls below 700 or whatever -> cuts back in -> repeat. All because the computer isn't powerful enough to account for warmup on its own, and it also doesn't know what the coolant controlled valve is doing. We're spoiled with all our 2000 and up cars with full sequential EFI, electronic throttle control, etc.
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Apr 4, 2018 13:50
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spog posted:Isn't it there to prevent carb icing? To prevent the throttle blades from sticking, ya. Not to prevent venturi icing. It doesn't generally pass through the right part of the throttle body for that.
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Apr 4, 2018 13:52
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For that problem a lot of older cars actually have intake heating, they suck air over the exhaust manifold so it heats up. Once the block warms heat can conduct into the carb from the block, so they switch over to a cold air intake.
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Apr 4, 2018 14:15
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06 Scion xB 160k miles (again) After the problems I had above, the speedometer isn’t working, the fuel gauge isn’t accurate, but the rest are working ok. What could cause that? I’m afraid when the alternator fuse blew it caused some wonkiness to the ECU.
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Apr 4, 2018 14:44
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Dr.Caligari posted:06 Scion xB I'd place my bets on something being wonky with the instrument cluster itself. As a general rule if you have simultaneous failures the first common component upstream of the affected things is a good suspect. If you have an Android device, go on Amazon and buy a bluetooth ELM327 clone for like $10, install Torque, and see if the readouts you see there seem sane. If so it's the cluster. If you're an Apple person you'll need to get one with WiFi instead because Apple has silly restrictions on Bluetooth. If the data there matches the cluster and is not reasonable, then my next bet would be a sensor issue. In both cases, the fact that you've had a recent electrical issue is certainly a plausible explanation because all kinds of weird things can happen if things see more voltage (or sometimes less) than they're expecting.
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Apr 4, 2018 16:44
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Enourmo posted:Maybe on some cars, but I know 90s Hondas, for example, had them on EFI cars. They call it a "cold fast idle valve", essentially a second idle valve that's coolant-controlled. The computer wasn't powerful enough to raise idle based on coolant temp, so the second valve was there to make the car idle faster when the engine was cold. Once coolant warms up, that valve shuts and the only idle air is what comes through the electronic-controlled idle valve. Interesting. That sounds a lot like my truck is doing with its idle. It idles at ~900 RPM. However, once the truck has been on 10 minutes or so, the RPM can drop below that, sometimes low enough that it dies. Does my truck have one of these other idle valves?
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Apr 4, 2018 18:03
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CornHolio posted:So my brother has a Chevy Trailblazer with the 4.2L inline six, a 2006 if I remember correctly. His CEL has been coming on intermittently. I scanned it over the weekend and it has a pending P0014 fault - 'B' camshaft position - timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 1). Some research indicated that this could be an oil starvation issue. I was originally thinking camshaft sensor. The oil light is definitely red on GMs.
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Apr 5, 2018 03:05
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kid sinister posted:I still can't track down the vacuum leak on my '88 F150. I swapped out the IAC valve for an OE one. It's helped a bit with surging, but my engine still likes to die whenever I take my my truck out of gear and my foot off the gas once it's warmed up. Yes I've tried the propane trick 3 times now, no surges from that. I've done new a new fuel pump, new regulator, new filters, etc. Not 100% sure but something to look into is the brake booster, it may be leaking internally and that wouldn't show up with a propane test. I had to test for this recently as my Turismo is only reading 5 inches of vacuum. (I believe my problem is the intake gasket, since the carb gasket and 1 vacuum line the car has are both new) As far as throttle bodies go I just bought used ones off eBay/from the junkyard when I needed them from lower mileage cars. - Obviously this is a gamble so take it as you will. I wasn't able to find anyone who would rebuild one. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:38 on Apr 5, 2018 |
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Apr 5, 2018 03:19
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Can loctite be used as an "adhesive" for non-threaded poo poo? I'm trying to keep a roll pin in a hole and its a tad on the loose side. I've tried shoving a screwdriver down the slot to open the pin up a bit but having limited success.
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Apr 5, 2018 17:05
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Autoexec.bat posted:Not 100% sure but something to look into is the brake booster, it may be leaking internally and that wouldn't show up with a propane test. I had to test for this recently as my Turismo is only reading 5 inches of vacuum. (I believe my problem is the intake gasket, since the carb gasket and 1 vacuum line the car has are both new) Couldn't you test for that by clamping off the brake booster hose?
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Apr 5, 2018 17:20
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I just capped off the line, obviously you lose brake assist so keep that in mind.
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Apr 5, 2018 19:35
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wesleywillis posted:Can loctite be used as an "adhesive" for non-threaded poo poo? They make Retaining Compound for slip-fit stuff. You might wanna look into that instead of actual threadlocker.
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Apr 5, 2018 20:33
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wesleywillis posted:Can loctite be used as an "adhesive" for non-threaded poo poo? Bigger roll pin would be my preference, is this a used pin?
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Apr 5, 2018 21:04
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shovelbum posted:Bigger roll pin would be my preference, is this a used pin? New pin. 5/16" pin in 5/16" hole.
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Apr 6, 2018 11:47
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98 isuzu rodeo. I can't get the headlight bulb out of my mother's rodeo's headlight socket. I tried PB blaster the first night, WD-40 the second night. Pushing, pulling, twisting, turning - I can't get this old burnt bulb out of the socket. Any suggestions?
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Apr 6, 2018 16:33
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It looks like that's a 9004 bulb...it pulls straight off. There's a tab/clip thing on one side you'll have to lift without breaking. Edit: Do not touch the glass on the new one with your fingers.
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Apr 6, 2018 17:28
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CornHolio posted:So my brother has a Chevy Trailblazer with the 4.2L inline six, a 2006 if I remember correctly. His CEL has been coming on intermittently. I scanned it over the weekend and it has a pending P0014 fault - 'B' camshaft position - timing over-advanced or system performance (bank 1). Some research indicated that this could be an oil starvation issue. I was originally thinking camshaft sensor. Hey man this is an older post but I'm just catching up. I saw some oil pressure weirdness on my old chevy (completely different age and engine, mind you) and eventually tracked it down to a leaking oil pressure sender unit. So while you're troubleshooting, be sure to take a look for that.
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Apr 6, 2018 20:35
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Leperflesh posted:Hey man this is an older post but I'm just catching up. I saw some oil pressure weirdness on my old chevy (completely different age and engine, mind you) and eventually tracked it down to a leaking oil pressure sender unit. So while you're troubleshooting, be sure to take a look for that. Hah, my Blazer (4.3) popped it one day while I was driving. I doubt 2000+ are using the exact same unit, but certainly worth checking.
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Apr 6, 2018 21:25
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The one on my Roadmaster is pretty moist. They pop? Hell, it just moved up the list.
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Apr 7, 2018 01:37
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Yeah, when I was driving it one day, pressure gauge went to zero and clouds of smoke started pouring from my hood. Naturally I poo poo my pants, so I immediately pulled into a gas station and popped the hood, only to find oil sprayed all over the intake manifold. It's pressurized oil pushing on a membrane; if the membrane ruptures it'll absolutely shoot past the electricals and out the connector.
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Apr 7, 2018 02:25
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PainterofCrap posted:The one on my Roadmaster is pretty moist. They pop? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZZht5dfwE4&t=64s
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Apr 7, 2018 04:28
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Going to take a look at an E30 tomorrow. Apparently has some damage on one of the wheel wells. Anyone have a super general feel for about how much this would cost for an auto body repair place to fix up? 
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Apr 7, 2018 16:30
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I work at an auto body shop and just sold my E30 heh. Every bodyshop has an estimator. Since this isn't insurance related, you'll have to work with their quotes. Damage like that will go to a body man to fix the dents/bends. Then the shop's painter will prep and re-spray the affected area of new, clean bodywork; doing his best to match the original paint. Finally, the E30 will go to the shop's detailer who will buff/polish the right rear quarter. As for pricing for all this, you're looking at maybe $200-$300 at most independent shops. If you're lucky enough to know someone who works at or with bodymen, then you can get all that done for maybe $150 on the low. But I would budget for around $250 probably, since this isn't an insurance related claimwork. *edit* - My personal (un-asked for) opinion is; unless you're turning this into some sort of show car - don't bother paying a bodyshop to fix that. It's not worth the money. Find a mobile auto detailer locally on Craigslist or whatever. Any detailer worth his salt can (judging from the kinda fuzzy picture) buff and polish all that roadrash out for you, and get that damage to be largely un-noticeable. The same detailer probably also knows an auto-painter that can just spray your fender line there for $20 bucks if you go buy the paint and clear yourself at Sherwin-Williams. The worst you would be left with would be some bumps in the body around that fender (again, from the looks of a kinda small pic). That would only cost you maybe $75 bucks total; if you had a detailer just come and buff/polish that out - as opposed to a likely $300 you'll spend at a bodyshop. Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Apr 7, 2018 |
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Apr 7, 2018 18:03
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Dennis McClaren posted:Since this isn't insurance related, you'll have to work with their quotes. ......................... Can I assume this to mean that insurance companies can get a deal, since they'll likely give a shop a lot of business?
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Apr 7, 2018 18:07
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wesleywillis posted:Can I assume this to mean that insurance companies can get a deal, since they'll likely give a shop a lot of business? Sort of. As far as "them" (the insurance company) "getting a deal" goes. What happens is the insurance company that works with that body shop (ours is Progressive) typically has an agent on site that works at the shop or nearby. They will do an estimate of the damage and repair costs to fix the vehicle, and then the body shop's own estimator will do his own walk-through, and give his estimate of the damage and repair costs. That's where their "deal" comes in. Since it's the insurance company that we work with all the time and we're contracted with - they do get a discount from what a normal walk-in customer would pay for the exact same repairs. So if two clients walked in with identical damage, the insured client would pay his deductible on his insurance, and the company would pay whatever the 2 estimator's agreed upon for costs. The second client would instead be paying our shop's estimator's costs, which would be higher than the insured customer's estimate. In any case, the insurance companies do get cheaper work done, yes.
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Apr 7, 2018 18:13
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