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Ashcans posted:I thought they brought it in house when they left Coat d'arms, did they just go to another place? Nah, the garbage "boltgun shell" bottle paints were contracted to Windsor & Newton, then they went in-house after that, and THEN they changed to the current line of weirdo paints. PS use reaper, Vallejo, AP and Coat D'arms/Privateer paints and you can't go wrong.
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Apr 7, 2018 21:23
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ijyt posted:An alternative I’ve heard is spray matte varnish, sprinkling the pigment on as it dries, then sealing again with matte varnish. This except don't varnish after, so you maintain that dusty look
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Apr 7, 2018 23:34
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BULBASAUR posted:This except don't varnish after, so you maintain that dusty look I varnished after and the dusty look is maintained. 
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Apr 8, 2018 00:46
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It took me awhile but I finished my Hearthgut Hooch Hauler for my Trollbloods. Lighting is blowing out my OSL a little bit, unfortunately a model this big gets too close to the lights!        
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Apr 8, 2018 02:57
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Jesus. And I was proud I was painting a bones mouseling a day. That's fantastic. I have a question - I'm super bad at keeping brushes in good shape. Even following directions and cleaning them religiously and rinsing often, I find I still get all my tips to start curving after a while. Is that an issue with the types of synthetic brushes I've been buying at Michaels and I just need to upgrade, or am I the problem and I need to get my poo poo together before buying anything more expensive?
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Apr 8, 2018 03:26
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Synthetics tips will bend no matter how well you maintain them. You'll want to get some Kolinsky Sable. They're known to keep their tips forever if you take care of them. You just need to be sure you don't get paint into the ferrule otherwise they begin to split.
Philthy fucked around with this message at 07:41 on Apr 8, 2018 |
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Apr 8, 2018 05:53
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Are there any good Farm vehicle/tractor kits? Something like a gunpla but tractors. I need to vent some autism
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Apr 8, 2018 06:28
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Ohthehugemanatee posted:Jesus. And I was proud I was painting a bones mouseling a day. That's fantastic. Synthetic tips generally always curl. The secret to getting them to last longer is actually how you paint with it, in addition to how you clean it after. If you are stabbing it into recesses at all expect it to bend immediately. You need to carefully side stroke it. Same when cleaning. Once you bend it, it pretty much stays bent. Of course there is always some flex of the tip to painting so it will curl up anyway. Or, as mentioned, get real kolinsky sable brushes. Also don't stab them, but they will pretty much not curl on you. If you do need to stab into recesses for fast base coating or blocking in, use really really cheap brushes instead of the 'nice' synthetics because who cares.
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Apr 8, 2018 07:00
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Painted a thing, can't quite figure out my light situation so it doesn't look so blown out. 
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Apr 8, 2018 22:41
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bonds0097 posted:Painted a thing, can't quite figure out my light situation so it doesn't look so blown out. Looks awesome, love the complentary colors. That glare seems like it's almost getting direct sunlight for the left. You could try setting up another light source like a lamp on the right side.
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Apr 8, 2018 22:53
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Booyah- posted:Looks awesome, love the complentary colors. Thanks, I definitely enjoyed contrasting the purple with warmer tones. This is my light setup: 
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Apr 8, 2018 22:59
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bonds0097 posted:Thanks, I definitely enjoyed contrasting the purple with warmer tones. Pull your lights further from the diffusion and you should end up with significantly less glare
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Apr 8, 2018 23:06
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Anyone here have any good recommendations on scenic trees? specifically I'm looking at the 4Ground tree sets. They seem quite nice if a bit pricey.
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Apr 9, 2018 11:06
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I spent the weekend working on my AT-ST.  Any comments or suggestions?
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Apr 9, 2018 11:36
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 Finished my first little project for a while in doing my friend's Tau SC box. ignore the lack of basing, as he'll be doing it himself. I'm finding smaller chunks of self contained army to be more conducive to progress, so I'll be doing the Shadespire Orks box next.
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Apr 9, 2018 13:41
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Grey Hunter posted:I spent the weekend working on my AT-ST. Is this the one from ImpAss, or from Legion? Either way, it's looking really grimy and well-weathered. Nice job!
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Apr 9, 2018 17:13
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Those pots were only good for terrain. I've got a box of 30 or so at my mum's house, checked them a month ago and there's still loads that are liquid inside...
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Apr 9, 2018 17:23
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xpost from the 40k thread. Finished a Dreadnought I won two months ago in an auction. Quickest turn around time from purchase to completion so far I think.  Just a shame I couldn't find the Space Wolf Venerable Dreadnought CCW arm in a bitz shop.
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Apr 9, 2018 17:26
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Airbrush dilemma: I bent the needle and the nozzle cracked so I bought new ones and installed them yesterday. It operated fine (my friend said the spray was narrower but I disagree) until we put a light brown in it. A small amount of air would come out but no paint. Cleaned it out, put a hi flow black in, no issues. Thinned the previous brown down even more, same issue. Tried a brick red and it spidered like crazy. We played with the psi throughout this whole ordeal. Took it apart and cleaned and still had issues. Not sure where to go from here. It's a Masters G22.
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Apr 9, 2018 17:40
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This is only tangentially related, but this thread is where I learned about future floor vanish, What top coat would be best for something that’s going to get handled a lot? Like a controller mod paint job.
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Apr 9, 2018 17:43
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Serenade posted:This is only tangentially related, but this thread is where I learned about future floor vanish,
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Apr 9, 2018 17:48
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Ilor posted:In general, gloss coats tend to be more durable than matte coats. If you like a matte finish but also want durability, I'd apply a gloss coat sealer first (or even two), then a matte coat afterwards. As for what product, there are a variety. Krylon has a gloss finish that I've had good luck with, and for a matte finisher you can't go wrong with Testor's Dull-Cote. But when layered properly, they’re all fine for intense hand holding?
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Apr 9, 2018 18:12
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Cat Face Joe posted:Airbrush dilemma: I bent the needle and the nozzle cracked so I bought new ones and installed them yesterday. It operated fine (my friend said the spray was narrower but I disagree) until we put a light brown in it. A small amount of air would come out but no paint. Cleaned it out, put a hi flow black in, no issues. Thinned the previous brown down even more, same issue. Tried a brick red and it spidered like crazy. We played with the psi throughout this whole ordeal. Took it apart and cleaned and still had issues. Not sure where to go from here. It's a Masters G22. I've had the same issue and I chalk it up to the paint - my problem was with Army Painter's bone color. No matter how thin it was, I couldn't get it to push through the brush. No problems with other colors though, so all I can think of is that AP isn't using as fine a pigment as other brands.
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Apr 9, 2018 18:16
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Serenade posted:But when layered properly, they’re all fine for intense hand holding? Oh, you're painting on a PS4 controller or something? Acrylics might not be your best option?
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Apr 9, 2018 18:27
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Dr. Gargunza posted:Is this the one from ImpAss, or from Legion? Either way, it's looking really grimy and well-weathered. Nice job! Legion. It's the largest thing I've ever printed.
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Apr 9, 2018 19:33
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Schadenboner posted:Oh, you're painting on a PS4 controller or something? Acrylics might not be your best option? Switch Pro Controller specifically, but yeah. I’d think sand, prime, paint, top coat would work if and only if: • the top coat doesn’t interact with the paint badly • the top coat survives use The guides I see about controller modding often just say “use spray paint” and “use clear coat”. Meanwhile, I’m sitting here with four kinds of top coat unable to deduce which exactly they mean.
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Apr 9, 2018 20:09
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X-post Hixson posted:Most of you nerds have already seen these but heres some more guys I painted
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Apr 9, 2018 22:27
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glitchkrieg posted:I've got a box of 30 or so at my mum's house, checked them a month ago and there's still loads that are liquid inside... Sell them.
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Apr 9, 2018 22:50
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  Got my GemsOnDisplay case. 1 tray holds 66 32mm bases. Case would hold about 700 Marines... I need to get it all magnetized and measure how many I need to double stack for tall minis.
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Apr 9, 2018 23:22
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Speaking of Future Polish, what is the name it goes by in the States as of now? I was looking for it and couldn't find any of that name.
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Apr 9, 2018 23:23
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Pledge Floorcare with Future or something
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Apr 9, 2018 23:25
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Anyone have any tips for airbrushing models on sprue? Or at least pre assembly. Thinking of doing the main bottom and the sides of my Dark Eldar Raider still on sprue just to make everything easier to access. Do you just scrape off and repay her the sprue marks? Or should you always de-sprue and trim first, then assembly after painting?
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Apr 9, 2018 23:41
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Cut off and clean up as many sprue joins as possible before it just falls off the sprue. Leave any that are going to be hidden after assembly.
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Apr 9, 2018 23:54
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dexefiend posted:
Someone is going to be super disappointed when they break into your car to steal that...
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Apr 10, 2018 00:02
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I never have time to play, so ... very low likelihood it would be taken like that.
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Apr 10, 2018 00:16
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Eifert Posting posted:Someone is going to be super disappointed when they break into your car to steal that... Someone could make a killing making miniature cases that look like bullshit no one would want to steal
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Apr 10, 2018 00:38
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Are the solid aluminum cases worth the cost? I saw they have a canvas one on that web site linked that is a whoooole bunch cheaper.
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Apr 10, 2018 00:59
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Serenade posted:This is only tangentially related, but this thread is where I learned about future floor vanish, I was actually recommended Spraymax 2K clear by one of the bigger controller painters (Mute City Customs, iirc). It's basically industrial clear coat for cars and poo poo, but a major issue is you only have 2 days, maaaaaybe 3if you're lucky, before the contents fully chemically mix inside the spray can, rendering it useless. There's also MAJOR health risks if used carelessly, since the poo poo has isocyanates in it (so check out the proper safety precautions before even ordering any). All that aside, it works like a loving dream, and I haven't heard of any issues when applied correctly.
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Apr 10, 2018 06:55
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Aniodia posted:I was actually recommended Spraymax 2K clear by one of the bigger controller painters (Mute City Customs, iirc). It's basically industrial clear coat for cars and poo poo, but a major issue is you only have 2 days, maaaaaybe 3if you're lucky, before the contents fully chemically mix inside the spray can, rendering it useless. There's also MAJOR health risks if used carelessly, since the poo poo has isocyanates in it (so check out the proper safety precautions before even ordering any). All that aside, it works like a loving dream, and I haven't heard of any issues when applied correctly. I used their stuff when I painted the roll pan on my pickup and it's really great paint and clear. Definitely need a respirator though. They have amazing nozzles on the cans too, pattern like you're shooting out of a thousand dollar sata, lays smooth as glass.
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Apr 10, 2018 14:04
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Harkano posted:Anyone have any tips for airbrushing models on sprue? Or at least pre assembly. Thinking of doing the main bottom and the sides of my Dark Eldar Raider still on sprue just to make everything easier to access. I make subassemblies and then obsessively clean off sprue marks and mold lines as much as possible before priming. What I like to do is glue the subassemblies to lengths of sprue in regions where it won't matter (like the inside of SM shoulder pads or the bottom of feet). That way I can airbrush things quickly before assembling.
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Apr 10, 2018 15:24
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