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So I found out the missing connector. It's the 8 pin headrest speaker connector. Luckily Metra makes both the male and female end. I've been... busy. I just finished the wiring diagram for the harness adapter:  The head unit will be a Pioneer AVH-3300NEX. Never figured out a double din solution that I liked. It's a shame because I hate the pop out screen look. Edit: stupid typo on the pioneer plug. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Apr 8, 2018 |
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Apr 7, 2018 03:48
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Is there a secret place to search for a NB front bumper? It's the last piece to fix our 99 and I'm tired of only finding damaged units for $200-300. I'm about to try car-part.com else wise.
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Apr 8, 2018 04:45
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Do you need a blue one in New England? I have a "perfect" (might need polishing or cleaning up) one you can have for 100. It's a NBFL bumper though, I don't know if that'll fit into a non facelift car and look right. Fake edit: Gah, Google says they're different around the headlights.
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Apr 8, 2018 08:07
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the spyder posted:Is there a secret place to search for a NB front bumper? It's the last piece to fix our 99 and I'm tired of only finding damaged units for $200-300. I'm about to try car-part.com else wise. I've had great success with redlineautoparts.com, I've found parts for my 95 that look brand spanking new. does this work?
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Apr 8, 2018 11:33
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the spyder posted:Is there a secret place to search for a NB front bumper? It's the last piece to fix our 99 and I'm tired of only finding damaged units for $200-300. I'm about to try car-part.com else wise.  Drifter's stitch to the rescue! (Jokes aside - I hit a badger, most of the plastic air dam poo poo under/behind the grill is shredded, contemplating what to do about it, 10AE front bumpers aren't exactly a dime a dozen).
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Apr 8, 2018 13:52
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Did some preliminary radio adapter harness wiring:   Next up is fixing the mess of spliced wires in the OEM harness. I've actually ordered wire strippers for the job. I usually just bite them off. My head isn't going to fit.
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Apr 9, 2018 00:27
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Protip: stagger your splices so you don't end up with a big goose egg in one spot.
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Apr 9, 2018 03:04
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That goose egg isn't hurting anyone  .Also I need the length, otherwise I probably would have.
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Apr 9, 2018 03:43
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Wibla posted:I hit a badger, most of the plastic air dam poo poo under/behind the grill is shredded Badgers are probably the highest-density mammal on earth or something. I have a friend who hit one, it broke his exhaust (and lots of plastic). First thing I did with my NA last year (a couple kilometers away from where I stored it for the winter) was hitting a hare. I managed to slow down to ~50km/h, but it dented some radiator fins and tore off a chunk of the underbody plastic thing. Bumper was fine though. Only mammal I will admit to ever killing with my car, though a couple of deer and reindeer have cut it awfully close. This is me (photo credit: Invalido), doing part the first of installing cruise control in the NB, which was swapping out the accelerator pedal to add that extra lever thing:  That is probably the trickiest part of it, just from being a very awkward spot to work in. Backup option would have been to take the whole pedal assembly out, but it looked like that would have been even worse. Also checked out the wiring, and it turns out I have basically none of it in the car and need to wire the whole thing up myself. Time-consuming, but straight-forward. Will steal some of the related connectors from the NA before I sell it as that has all the wiring for it. While I was in there, I removed a lovely probably broken aftermarket alarm system that I don't really want, and put a relay in so I can just leave the light switch on when turning the car off. Car is now also free from that style bar, because screw that. Real roll bars or nothing. I'm gonna put speakers there instead, bar is just in the way. I also confirmed a suspicion I've had: The bolt I found on the floor a while back was the one holding the drivers seat to the rails. Now it does so again, which is nice.
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Apr 9, 2018 06:55
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So my resoldered and now actually working coolant temperature gauge already proved itself useful. It always showed the temp going way up before slowly coming down again. It was also always a bit on the hot side. It looks like the thermostat did not open fast enough or not all the way. So i did a complete coolant flush and replaced the thermostat. Now the needle climbs up to the middle and just stays there. The stock gauge didn't show any of this because of the giant dead spot in the middle. Shai-Hulud fucked around with this message at 12:43 on Apr 9, 2018 |
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Apr 9, 2018 12:38
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I am thinking about buying a (already drivable, no projects) Miata in SoCal, manual is the only option I'm aware is definitely 'Must Have' (and it needs to be smog-ready or already certified) but I'm also relatively new to this search, any suggestions on things I should watch out for/specific models to look for primarily? Budget is $3-6k with the hopes of keeping it at the lower end of that but with some flex for the right car...
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Apr 10, 2018 22:21
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Prices are extremely regional and seasonal. That's like a perfect price here, but California is probably the most expensive state and might push a decent one into the 4-5 thousand range. I normally like getting a cheaper car and being prepared to spend another 30% on whatever repairs because you can never trust previous owners. Watch out for rust at the quarter panels. You can replace the fronts (For quite a lot of money to get them properly paint matched), but if the rears are damaged the car might as well be totaled. Other than that everything is easy to work on.
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Apr 10, 2018 23:06
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Ether Frenzy posted:I am thinking about buying a (already drivable, no projects) Miata in SoCal, manual is the only option I'm aware is definitely 'Must Have' (and it needs to be smog-ready or already certified) but I'm also relatively new to this search, any suggestions on things I should watch out for/specific models to look for primarily? I've been on the hunt for a Miata in SoCal myself. I stumbled upon this one on craigslist; I would pull the trigger immediately but I don't have all my ducks in a row yet. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-mx-5-47k/6557380090.html
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Apr 11, 2018 05:13
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kimcicle posted:I've been on the hunt for a Miata in SoCal myself. I stumbled upon this one on craigslist; I would pull the trigger immediately but I don't have all my ducks in a row yet. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata-mx-5-47k/6557380090.html Drive a 1.6 and a 1.8 before you decide if you are ok with "really slow" or just "slow."
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Apr 11, 2018 14:40
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That red one is super clean and practically brand new looking. I craigslist-emailed that seller to see if it was still available, but haven't heard back. (I won't steal your car kimcicle if you're trying to actually buy it!) Red is probably not exactly what I want, and I'm sort of torn on the 'museum condition' situation as I already have one car I care about and don't need to add to that end of the fleet. Is there any way to tell from the badging/model name/etc whether it's a 1.6 or a 1.8? I still need to go sit in an NA and see if I actually fit at 6'1, 220. 34" inseam, I don't think I have an overly long torso, but I've heard these cars have got more legroom than headroom and I'm relatively broad in the shoulders. Here's what I look like sitting as low as possible in a 2018 M3's seat:  Regarding whether I'm okay with "slow" or "really slow" - I grew up driving Volvo 240's, and now have a E92 M3 so... I don't know that I'd honestly be able to tell the difference between 1.6 and 1.8 speeds (or feel that 1.8 is anything less than 'really slow' anyway). This one looks somewhat interesting to me (an admitted very novice miata looker) for what I'm thinking of using it for, but there's not a ton of info in the ad and I haven't heard back from the seller yet on this one either. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/1992-mazda-miata-68k-miles-5/6556826974.html
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Apr 11, 2018 21:13
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Any Miata from before 1994 will have the 1.6.
Elysium fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 23:28
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Ether Frenzy posted:This one looks somewhat interesting to me (an admitted very novice miata looker) for what I'm thinking of using it for, but there's not a ton of info in the ad and I haven't heard back from the seller yet on this one either. https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/cto/d/1992-mazda-miata-68k-miles-5/6556826974.html I'd look at that copy myself. Front passenger fender has a small dent that I might mistake as a rust bubble.
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Apr 12, 2018 01:14
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Update: I fit in it, that's s a tiny dent (no rust anywhere) no other dings but a little scuff under the right parking light, a small crack in the front valence paint, and I bought the car. $3800 out the door. 68k CA miles and 1 old man owner with everything mechanically working great, top is rock solid, engine pulls hard and strong, and the alignment is good and there's new tires on it. Even my wife is delighted at it. 
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Apr 12, 2018 03:30
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Congratulations on a very clean copy of an increasingly hard car to find in such condition. Quick update. I got proper wire stippers today and began prepping the new stereo connector transplant.  Did I mention how hosed the old one was?  I got a little rough pulling out the seats and broke a headrest connector a little.  I ordered new pins from Mouser based on what looked correct. I'm gonna wait till they come in before saying whether or not they are right and what they are. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 03:55 on Apr 12, 2018 |
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Apr 12, 2018 03:45
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About to order some kyb agx shocks for my '95 since i can't find Bilsteins anywhere. While I'm at it i figure i should replace all my rubber bushings. Anything else i should do while i have it all apart?
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Apr 12, 2018 13:41
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Voltage posted:About to order some kyb agx shocks for my '95 since i can't find Bilsteins anywhere. While I'm at it i figure i should replace all my rubber bushings. Anything else i should do while i have it all apart? If the rubber's so bad you're replacing bushings, wouldn't you want to do the strut top bearings as well? and ball joints, and tie rods, and, and and.
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Apr 12, 2018 15:07
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Might as well do all the things. Then it's done and you know the status on everything.
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Apr 12, 2018 15:20
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Is the energy suspension poly bushings kit the one to get? I also plan to get a little harbor freight hydraulic press to make it easier. This one http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-0888RED.html Or this one? http://www.good-win-racing.com/Mazda-Performance-Part/61-0986a.html Yeah also getting bump stops, boots, and shock mounts. My miata is completely rust free and in super nice shape so I may as well perfect it.
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Apr 12, 2018 23:59
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I really like the black poly suspension kit, but some people say it's too hard. I have relatively soft springs on my car so that might make up for a part of it. I think they're only 350 pounds/inch while some people go up to 700 pounds per inch.
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Apr 13, 2018 00:16
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Get the ES kit that doesn't have the diff bushings. They aren't worth the effort.
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Apr 13, 2018 03:13
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Is This missing anything? Otherwise I'll just get the full master kit.
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Apr 13, 2018 03:41
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I think it was talked about earlier in the thread but to anyone considering it: DO NOT put poly diff bushings in a daily or pleasure driven car. It will drive you insane. I had Mazdaspeed engine and diff mounts in mine, perfect.
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Apr 13, 2018 05:49
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I've been looking at re-bushing my 95 and I was going to get the I.L. motorsports rubber set not only so I can daily it if I see fit, but also to stay class compliant. Poly bushings bumps you out of E street.
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Apr 13, 2018 10:34
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Ok so ill do the energy black control arm and swaybar link bushings, standard engine mounts, KYB agx shocks, mounts, boots and bumpstops, and dont bother with diff bushing or do rubber ones? Should I snag ball joints as well? Everything on the suspension including the shocks are from 1994.
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Apr 13, 2018 13:22
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Mazdaspeed engine mounts
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Apr 13, 2018 13:40
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Worked on the interior today   If it's tan, it's new. I also am aware of the filth level of the car overall. It's actually covered in a fine coat of sawdust from concurrent house remodeling I'm doing. Also the new top from Moss Miata requires me to drill and rivet the convertible frame  . I guess this is as good of a reason as any to get a pop rivet gun.Up next: Install the Rockford Fostgate door speakers when the delphi waterproof connectors come in and install the seats when they come back from reupholstery. Then I can pull the engine 
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Apr 22, 2018 23:52
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What's a decent target for completely renewing the interior (carpet, seats, trim)? 10 years of using mine basically as a work truck took its toll.
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Apr 23, 2018 00:41
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Are you talking price? As long as you dont need new seats or top is actually reasonably affordable. Note that these parts are used, but my whole interior can be had for something like $400.
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Apr 23, 2018 01:05
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Took my Miata out of winter storage a few weeks ago. When I got home and took the hardtop off I found a brand new hole in my top! Any ideas how this happened? Bugs? mice? Rot?  The top is pretty much trashed anyway, so I've temporarily fixed it with some color-matched gaffers tape. We got a few inches of rain last week and it held up fine. 
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Apr 23, 2018 02:01
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Took my Miata out of winter storage a few weeks ago. Depends where and how you store it, probably.
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Apr 23, 2018 02:12
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Voltage posted:Is the energy suspension poly bushings kit the one to get? I also plan to get a little harbor freight hydraulic press to make it easier. I just installed mine - protip: be careful with the press, some of those bushings hold on real tight. The winning formula for me was line it up, put a few lbs of pressure on the bushing then hit it with a heat gun for a few seconds and it'd slide right out.
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Apr 23, 2018 02:28
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Larrymer posted:Depends where and how you store it, probably. Dry and well-sealed garage in upstate New York. Just drove it into the garage with the hardtop on (and so the ragtop down) and put some Stabil and a trickle charger on it. I was expecting a layer of dust after a few months but there was none. Seems hard to imagine a mouse burrowing itself in the multiple folds of the top just to snack on a particular spot of canvas. So I'm pretty puzzled how this hole appeared.
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Apr 23, 2018 03:00
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mcgreenvegtables posted:Seems hard to imagine a mouse burrowing itself in the multiple folds of the top just to snack on a particular spot of canvas. So I'm pretty puzzled how this hole appeared. Rodents do the darndest things. If that hole is near a fold, I guess it's possible for something to have been crawling around in there looking for winter shelter or something and just going "gently caress it, I'm coming through right here". As strange as it sounds, if you're absolutely sure the hole wasn't there last year I don't see what else it could be. No other signs of mice (poo poo / corpses / nests) in the car?
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Apr 23, 2018 07:26
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Spent the weekend working on the 95's suspension. Per Phone, I went with Koni sport adjustables. I found a set of reasonably newish looking stock springs on ebay and went to town. The setup is: Stock springs Koni adjustables Good win racing stock class red/white bump stops for konis new swaybar endlinks, bushings, and strut tops by moog. I ended up using the long bolt method, which works great on the passenger side, but the driver's side can be a pain because the power steering lines go between the frame rail and swaybar mount right there, not much room for the bolt to slide. I only lost two bolts to Massachusetts rust (I'm in Texas, car spent it's first four years in MA) and both were swaybar endlink bolts. I ended up welding an old lugnut to one nut because the wrench slipped while I was impact gunning it and the nut rounded. I'm not running a rear bar now, which suits me just fine since Phone recommended to run without one anyway. This car is completely transformed by this suspension. Before it rode like a car with a dead suspension, because it was. Every bump and jolt was just awful, like riding in a forklift. Now, at full soft, it just glides over most road imperfections. I'll experiment with dialing up the damping next weekend. I'll be doing my first autocross May 6th if the weather holds out. Konis + stock springs is an amazing combo for this old car.
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Apr 23, 2018 10:41
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BloodBag posted:I ended up using the long bolt method, which works great on the passenger side, but the driver's side can be a pain because the power steering lines go between the frame rail and swaybar mount right there, not much room for the bolt to slide. I only lost two bolts to Massachusetts rust (I'm in Texas, car spent it's first four years in MA) and both were swaybar endlink bolts. I ended up welding an old lugnut to one nut because the wrench slipped while I was impact gunning it and the nut rounded. I'm not running a rear bar now, which suits me just fine since Phone recommended to run without one anyway. I put cheap coilovers on my 97 a couple years ago, and used the long bolt method on the front. Don't recall the power steering being much of an issue though. But even if the PS lines are in the way, can't the brackets for those just be unbolted and the lines shuffled a little bit to the side to make room? I also snapped a couple of swaybar endlink bolts, I think it was both the rear ones (only undid one end of each endlink). So those are now the only 15mm bolts on the entire car (since that's the "normal size" you can buy anywhere, 14mm is "car size"). Similarly it has one single 13mm bolt, for the power steering belt tensioner. When I changed the suspension on my NB a few weeks ago (going from much-too-low H&R springs back to stock), I had a hard time getting the endlinks off. Since it's the balljoint-bolt-with-hex-inside it is both rather easy to strip out and it's not possible to just cut off a bolt like on the NA, it got a bit trickier. I managed to get one off each in front and rear, which was enough to be able to move the control arm. On one of them I managed to turn the nut a couple of turns before it seized up, so that one is now a little bit loose. I have bought a set of four new plain old endlinks so next time I'm in there for whatever reason I'll just chop the old ones off and replace them.
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Apr 23, 2018 12:09
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