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Sounds like I'm buying a normal battery and a tender then. I don't really ride my Grom as much as my FZ and never when it's cold. I only got like 18mo out of this battery though.
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Apr 13, 2018 16:37
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So I just started lessons after doing my cbt, next week is my first time on a big boy bike (ER6N) Am I going to die?
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Apr 13, 2018 17:58
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itsjustdrew posted:So I just started lessons after doing my cbt, next week is my first time on a big boy bike (ER6N) Am I going to die? Absolutely yes. Maybe not then, or from that, but death, taxes, and white being a poo poo colour for a bike are the only constants of human existence.
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Apr 13, 2018 18:11
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Absolutely yes. Thank you friend. Now I know death is certain, I might as well just go for it.
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Apr 13, 2018 18:12
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robotsinmyhead posted:Sounds like I'm buying a normal battery and a tender then. I don't really ride my Grom as much as my FZ and never when it's cold. I only got like 18mo out of this battery though. I like them a lot more than anyone else on here (I think), and I think they're only really useful in two cases. 1. you really need to save weight. For example, you're building a race bike. 2. you leave your bike outside in the cold where you can't charge it, don't want to bring the battery in and need a battery that won't drain in between riding. For example, you live in new york city and keep your bike on the street in the winter. If you're going to get one, I would only get an earthx or maybe one of the new antigravity ones because the earthx have an actual BMS that won't let you kill the battery and supposedly so do the antigravity ones.
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Apr 13, 2018 18:21
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I bought a house-brand Autozone lithium battery for my KLR and I have been supremely impressed with it. I no longer do any preventative battery maintenance whatsoever. It sits in the shed all winter with no tender. It fires up in the spring with no problems. Left my lights on twice, both instances I charged it for ten minutes then rode away symptom free, never charged it again.
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Apr 13, 2018 19:01
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RadioPassive posted:I bought a house-brand Autozone lithium battery for my KLR and I have been supremely impressed with it. Yeah, they charge SUPER FAST compared to regular batteries and they hardly discharge at all. The problem is with the lights you can kill a LiFePO battery and it'll just be dead forever, RIP, whereas with a regular battery you could recharge it and save it. That's why I recommend the earthx/antigravity ones.
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Apr 13, 2018 19:04
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builds character posted:The problem is with the lights you can kill a LiFePO battery and it'll just be dead forever, RIP, whereas with a regular battery you could recharge it and save it. That's why I recommend the earthx/antigravity ones. I have experienced the exact opposite of this effect. I have repeatedly killed my lithium battery and it bounces back just fine, as mentioned. I have twice failed to revive fully-dead (but relatively young) acid batteries. I am irresponsible about batteries.
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Apr 13, 2018 19:42
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builds character posted:The problem is with the lights you can kill a LiFePO battery and it'll just be dead forever, RIP, whereas with a regular battery you could recharge it and save it. It's the other way around. You can ruin a lead battery by discharging it too deeply, but a (properly built, not eBay poo poo) LiX has a built in circuit breaker which shuts down if the voltage gets too low. If it hasn't got this protection, then you can ruin it properly.
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Apr 13, 2018 20:17
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Ola posted:It's the other way around. You can ruin a lead battery by discharging it too deeply, but a (properly built, not eBay poo poo) LiX has a built in circuit breaker which shuts down if the voltage gets too low. If it hasn't got this protection, then you can ruin it properly. Happy to be wrong about this but as far as I know, only earthx and antigravity have this.
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Apr 14, 2018 00:06
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Also if your lithium battery doesn’t have that feature it can start on fire from being undervolted.
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Apr 14, 2018 00:24
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builds character posted:Where do you live? Punta Cana, DR
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Apr 14, 2018 03:41
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I'm looking for some tire advice. My tires are starting to get a bit squared off and worn out and I know I would be in the market for new tires in the near future. Background is that I have probably put about 10k kms on a pair of Michelin Sirac's for my CRF250l. I love them and I really can't complain. I've taken them mostly on tarmac riding with the odd hoon around essentially fire roads as a weekend warrior. I don't put tons of mileage on my bike since I don't commute with it. I've moved since where I have first bought my bike and most of my riding is now on tarmac. I don't think I could confidently say that I wouldn't miss having the capacity for doing some rougher riding if I went full sumo, but realistically I haven't done any serious off tarmac riding for a while now. What are goon suggestions for tires? Should I lean into things and get a set of road tires instead? More dual sport tires with a road bias?
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Apr 15, 2018 12:19
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Some 70/30's like Conti tkc70 sound like they'd be up your alley. It even tkc80. You can get some pretty aggressive looking knobby tires nowadays that nonetheless grip and ride exactly likely normal road tyres on tarmac.
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Apr 15, 2018 20:47
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That sounds cool. Good to know that I can really just get any road biased dual sport tires. Any particular tips for tire shopping New Zealand styles for someone who wouldn't be confident putting them on himself the first time around? Just hit up the local motorcycle shop? Finally, tire sizing is kind of hurting my brain. I suspect it might be a dumb question with the answer being go talk to my local mechanic , but in case it isn't I am wondering about fudging tire sizes. The oem tires are a 3.00x21 in the front and a 120/80x18 on the rear. The TKC70 comes in that size in the front, but only does 150/70 on 18" rims on the rear, if i wanted to get a pair is it okay to get a fat tire like that on the rear assuming it doesn't rub or do i stretch a 17" tire over the 18" rims? Likewise if i really wanted say a trail attack 2 for that even more road bias which seems to come in fatter dimensions, like a 90mm front and 140 on the rear - again is that doable or is tire sizing not that forgiving?
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Apr 16, 2018 07:40
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You can't put a 17" tire on an 18" rim. It simply won't fit. The tire width can maybe be fudged a little bit if you do it in concert with the profile (e.g. a 150/70-17 may fit where a 140/80-17 is specified) but it's not a great idea to do so. Going from a 120 to a 150 on the same wheel is likely impossible and is definitely unsafe if you manage to do it. Just find some tires that come in the correct dimensions.
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Apr 16, 2018 07:50
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Wicked. I should have suspected as much. Will carry on looking for tires then.
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Apr 16, 2018 07:55
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I’m looking into buying a dinged up GSXR6 2004 euro spec for 2200$ here, but I can’t take it from Italy to US when I PCS. I still think I’ll be happy leaving it behind me and getting a new one eventually. I just know I grow very attached to vehicles.
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Apr 16, 2018 10:56
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There are plenty of GSXR 600’s for you in the states, friend!
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Apr 16, 2018 12:32
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Sagebrush posted:The tire width can maybe be fudged a little bit if you do it in concert with the profile (e.g. a 150/70-17 may fit where a 140/80-17 is specified) but it's not a great idea to do so. Going from a 120 to a 150 on the same wheel is likely impossible and is definitely unsafe if you manage to do it.
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Apr 16, 2018 15:14
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I would say you can usually go 10mm width off in either direction on most bikes, but it depends on the bike, you gotta see how much space there is around the tire. My Ducati originally took a 170/60 on the rear but when I bought it it had a 160/60 and right now I have a 180/55 on it. They all worked. We have a BMW R100GS in the shop that has the stock 130/80-17 on it and you can see about 3mm of clearance between the tire and the swingarm on it so that one won't take anything bigger. NTM, even if you do get a wider-than-advised tire on the rim with enough clearance for the swingarm, it might change the profile to something completely unintended by the tire manufacturer, loving up any perceived performance gains. Probably also voiding any warranty/releasing any liability if it causes you to wreck for any reason.
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Apr 16, 2018 15:29
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Sagebrush posted:You can't put a 17" tire on an 18" rim. It simply won't fit. Agreed on all of this, but I put 150/70 or 140/80 tires on my f800gs depending on what’s on sale or whatever and have noticed absolutely no difference, and I ride every day. Actually now that I think about it, maybe the 140/80 squares off worse, but the mileage is the same. Stock is 150/70. Maybe I shouldn’t do this? ADVrider told me it was ok. Alamoduh fucked around with this message at 16:34 on Apr 16, 2018 |
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Apr 16, 2018 16:29
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From my experience doing this on various bikes, the difference is almost impossible to notice. For warranty poo poo I'm sure it would cause an issue though.
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Apr 16, 2018 17:16
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Other than the MSF class and riding a Harley around the block, I've only ridden my Daytona 675. I helped a new rider get his FZ-07 home yesterday, and I have to say it felt really odd turning on that bike. Almost like it wants to turn in at first, then pushes back? I understand it has a different geometry, but it was really not confidence inspiring. Probably didn't help that I really really didn't want to drop my friend's new (used) bike. Can someone who's ridden a lot of bikes explain this better than I am? At least I finally understood what people are talking about with having to increase pressure on the bars at higher speeds when countersteering, I've honestly not really noticed that on my bike.
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Apr 16, 2018 17:23
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MomJeans420 posted:Other than the MSF class and riding a Harley around the block, I've only ridden my Daytona 675. I helped a new rider get his FZ-07 home yesterday, and I have to say it felt really odd turning on that bike. Almost like it wants to turn in at first, then pushes back? I understand it has a different geometry, but it was really not confidence inspiring. Probably didn't help that I really really didn't want to drop my friend's new (used) bike. Can someone who's ridden a lot of bikes explain this better than I am? Tire profile, tire pressure and tire wear all add up to a certain response curve. On my bike, as my tire wore, I'd get a hump mid-lean where the bike would resist leaning until it got over the hump, then it would fall deeper into the turn. A fresh tire was much more linear. Steering geometry has something to say as well, in that one bike responds differently from another, but your own head has a lot to say as well. You easily notice something that's immediately different from yours, even if your own felt exactly the same 5000 miles ago but has since changed.
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Apr 16, 2018 17:45
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MomJeans420 posted:Other than the MSF class and riding a Harley around the block, I've only ridden my Daytona 675. I helped a new rider get his FZ-07 home yesterday, and I have to say it felt really odd turning on that bike. Almost like it wants to turn in at first, then pushes back? I understand it has a different geometry, but it was really not confidence inspiring. Probably didn't help that I really really didn't want to drop my friend's new (used) bike. Can someone who's ridden a lot of bikes explain this better than I am? Isn't the Daytona one of the most knife-edge turn-in bikes currently out there? It would be no wonder if you felt the turn-in were slow on the FZ.
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Apr 16, 2018 19:29
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Slide Hammer posted:Isn't the Daytona one of the most knife-edge turn-in bikes currently out there?
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Apr 16, 2018 19:39
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MomJeans420 posted:Other than the MSF class and riding a Harley around the block, I've only ridden my Daytona 675. I helped a new rider get his FZ-07 home yesterday, and I have to say it felt really odd turning on that bike. Almost like it wants to turn in at first, then pushes back? I understand it has a different geometry, but it was really not confidence inspiring. Probably didn't help that I really really didn't want to drop my friend's new (used) bike. Can someone who's ridden a lot of bikes explain this better than I am? IMO this is just crap fork vs good fork + all the vagaries already mentioned. Trambopaline posted:That sounds cool. Good to know that I can really just get any road biased dual sport tires. Any particular tips for tire shopping New Zealand styles for someone who wouldn't be confident putting them on himself the first time around? Just hit up the local motorcycle shop? Where in the country are you? If you're in Auckland I can help you out, PM me.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:23
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Yeah aren’t the fz07’s known for having pretty garbage suspension?
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Apr 16, 2018 23:28
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I can definitely empathize with the “not confidence inspiring” remark on the FZ 07, I could push my little CB-1 way harder around corners for some reason. I know lots of people are fast on them but I did not like to lean mine at speed. The tires were fine though. It was a good bike for lanesplitting. The balance and brakes were good enough that I pulled some accidental stoppies in traffic
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Apr 16, 2018 23:54
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I test rode an fz07 at the track. The front end felt pants shittingly crappy, lol
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Apr 17, 2018 00:47
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Trying to get a new Shinko 805 on my KLR and hating life. I could get it maybe 65% on it around the rim but then it seemed too 'stretched' and there was no amount of muscling that would get it over. Normally I'd just take it to a pro, but I wanted to be sure I can change a flat on the trail. At this point I'm assuming that future generations will find my skeleton next to the bike, clutching a tyre iron in each hand, middle finger extended towards the wheel. I've got the tyre on on one side, slid the tube in, and am trying to get the second side on. The side that is on already is a bit uneven, but my understanding is this shouldn't matter (will pop on when innertube is inflated, no?). Wondering if some of my problem is the weather; is autumn and today was kinda overcast, so I didn't get to leave it out in the sun for a few hours like I normally do. I tried faking it by hitting it with my heatgun but it didn't seem to make much of a difference. If anyone has any tips I am all ears, feel like I've watched every Youtube video there is but it just ain't happening. Also in hating life news: repainting it, or more accurately, getting the PO's paintjob off so I can repaint it. Gone through a litre of acetone and several metres of sandpaper, thankfully almost done.
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Apr 17, 2018 08:51
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Ethics_Gradient posted:If anyone has any tips Might not be helpful, but: If you take the part of the tire that's on, squeeze the sides together and press them into the trough of the rim, it will move the tire slightly towards the other side. Also, lots of lube and small bites.
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Apr 17, 2018 09:23
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It is the right size, right? I've had a little luck getting the beads of the seated side down into the spoke trough as mentioned, and then setting the wheel upright with the seated side against the ground, putting my feet on it to kind of anchor it and shove the tire up, and two-spooning the rest of the bead in.
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Apr 17, 2018 15:53
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Ola posted:Might not be helpful, but: If you take the part of the tire that's on, squeeze the sides together and press them into the trough of the rim, it will move the tire slightly towards the other side. Also, lots of lube and small bites. This, and also start over. Sometimes the first time you try to put the tire on, the inner part of the first side is too far to the inside of the rim, which causes the problem you’re seeing- too much rubber to spoon over the other side. Try to get the first lip as close to the outside rim as you can before you start the other side. Also warm up the rubber if possible, every bit of help adds up. For lube I use dish soap. I have heard shinkos are hard to get on, but nothing beats heidenau k60s for skinned knuckles and wanting to set the tire on fire. I started doing it myself with tire spoons for the same reason you did, and I still do it myself because I’m dumb as hell.
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Apr 17, 2018 16:46
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Ola posted:Might not be helpful, but: If you take the part of the tire that's on, squeeze the sides together and press them into the trough of the rim, it will move the tire slightly towards the other side. Also, lots of lube and small bites.
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Apr 17, 2018 17:06
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Trying to get a new Shinko 805 on my KLR and hating life. I could get it maybe 65% on it around the rim but then it seemed too 'stretched' and there was no amount of muscling that would get it over. Normally I'd just take it to a pro, but I wanted to be sure I can change a flat on the trail. At this point I'm assuming that future generations will find my skeleton next to the bike, clutching a tyre iron in each hand, middle finger extended towards the wheel. 1. If you're on the trail, you can change a tube without taking the tire off. Just deflate the tube and you can slip it out. Probably skin your knuckles, but worth it IMO if you're having a hard time with getting the tire on and off. Easiest, I think, is to just take the tire half off, but I suppose that's neither here nor there. 2. It's a lot harder if the tire is cold. 3. Get the big tire iron. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/726/20307/Tusk-17%22-Mega-Tire-Iron It's really helpful and good. 4. Like Ola said, use multiple spoons. Set up two on either side of where the tire is already in. Then, take your third and move it just a little in and then lever that 1" of tire on. Leave it and take the outside one and use it to do the same. 5. Change your tires a couple of times and it gets a lot easier. There's definitely some technique/practice involved. Alamoduh posted:
https://www.dunlopmotorcycletires.com/tire-line/geomax-mx52/ 
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Apr 17, 2018 19:39
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https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mcy/d/yamaha-sroh-the-places-youll/6559120552.html What do you guys think is a fair price to offer for this? 4900 seems really high, considering a dealership is offering a new 2017 for 100$ less.
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Apr 18, 2018 02:56
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Gropes posted:https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/mcy/d/yamaha-sroh-the-places-youll/6559120552.html Just buy one from a dealership then? People like that aren’t reasonable at all. He’s probably underwater on it too. Are there comparable bikes that are priced ~3k?
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Apr 18, 2018 03:13
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builds character posted:Just buy one from a dealership then? People like that aren’t reasonable at all. He’s probably underwater on it too. Are there comparable bikes that are priced ~3k? I save a bunch of money that I can spend on gear if I buy this one at a better price and its slightly broken in which i've read is better for this bike. Gropes fucked around with this message at 03:20 on Apr 18, 2018 |
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Apr 18, 2018 03:15
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