Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Science Rocket
Sep 4, 2006

Putting the Flash in Flash Man

BULBASAUR posted:

Magic Priming Technique

I'm going to try your Zenithal priming for the first time next weekend, and I'm curious on why you don't include the pauldrons when you spray marines? It feels like an easy way to make them look shaded naturally, but I feel like I'm missing the reason to do them separately.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Thanqol
Feb 15, 2012

because our character has the 'poet' trait, this update shall be told in the format of a rap battle.

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

Cross-posting from the 40K thread because I'm a scared and alone and need encouragement.

The first thing you're going to learn, and it's going to take a while, is the properties of different paints. Annoyingly paint isn't just paint - every paint has different thickness, coverage, reactions to water and other weird habits. Some paints, like GW Rakarth Flesh, are excellent and apply smooth, even coverages with absolutely zero effort. Some paints, like GW White Scar, are weird and powdery and dry into rock hard chunks that'll stop you closing the lid properly. There's no shortcut to this, it's by far the biggest skill gate you'll be dealing with for your first 3-5 months. In addition colours are weird and often don't look like you think in relation to each other.

That's fine, though. I advise grabbing a Dark Imperium box set and painting all the Primaris marines in different colours, and then trying a bunch of different techniques on all the weird organic stuff on the death guard. It's how I learned and by the end of it I had a really strong understanding of a huge range of colours and techniques.

Plus since they're all so simple and bulky they can be stripped really easily when you want to come back to them years later.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Science Rocket posted:

I'm going to try your Zenithal priming for the first time next weekend, and I'm curious on why you don't include the pauldrons when you spray marines? It feels like an easy way to make them look shaded naturally, but I feel like I'm missing the reason to do them separately.

I think that's because he's painting them a different colour to the rest of the marine.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

ijyt posted:

I think that's because he's painting them a different colour to the rest of the marine.

They're iron warriors so probably HAZARD STRIPES

Two Beans
Nov 27, 2003

dabbin' on em
Pillbug

DiHK posted:

They all thought it was blaze medium. :420:

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer
More FISTS




Ilor
Feb 2, 2008

That's a crit.
Those Fists are hot.

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh
I'm finally getting my new work area mostly together:

Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009
gently caress thats a dope paint station, you even have the ability to brush your teeth at it! youve thought of everything

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!
That's far too organised! Who even has that much desk space!

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Sultan Tarquin posted:

That's far too organised! Who even has that much desk space!

True story, most of those storage units were crammed in my closet at our old place. Luckily the our new place has an area for me to set up a hobby desk (it's where the kitchen table is supposed to go :twisted:).

Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:

gently caress thats a dope paint station, you even have the ability to brush your teeth at it! youve thought of everything

Hey I didn't pick my username for nothin'.

Skails
Feb 24, 2008

Born-In-Space
X-post

Skails posted:


Started painting my Eversor conversion. Just worked on his skull so far. I found a fuckoff big knife for him on the catachan heavy weapons squad kit.




Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

I rate 13/10 good Assassino.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Avenging Dentist posted:

I'm finally getting my new work area mostly together:



Heh, mine used to look like that. Soon every open surface on your desk will have some useful material or paint or tool or model that you’re totally using right now and need out for 3 months straight.

Duct Tape
Sep 30, 2004

Huh?
Any advice on where to go with this style of base?

I wanted to break things up a bit, so I added slate chips. But they just look out of place.


Tried drybrushing the slate to match the ground, thinking it would let it blend in more, and it just looks ... odd.


Any ideas? I've got about a thousand wooden disks to try stuff out on with no consequence, so I'm free to shoot from the hips on ideas.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Slather on some orange weathering pigment to tie it all together.

Zark the Damned
Mar 9, 2013

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

Cross-posting from the 40K thread because I'm a scared and alone and need encouragement.

Welcome to the world of painting minis! Don't ever discouraged if your first minis end up looking bad, it takes practice and persistence to get good. Be prepared to 'sacrifice' a few minis to test schemes and techniques, as has been suggested it may be a good idea to pick up some cheap minis to practice on that won't be part of your army (like GW starter minis or Reaper Bones stuff).

There are plenty of online resources with tutorials for different things, Duncan from GW in particular is pretty good for specific colours. More info in the OP.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

thumbnail looks like deadpool, hope that helps

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops
Yo I painted a troll



Apologies for blurrycam, I didn't have a spare surface to rest on that had decent light.

I still need to paint the cords on the skulls and maybe define the forehead-fur again a bit better but I'm actually pretty proud of it given it's one of the few things bigger than 15mm I've painted lately.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

That's a great looking troll. Where's that from?

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

Ignite Memories posted:

That's a great looking troll. Where's that from?

Red Box, though in this case through Hasslefree Miniatures in the UK who used to stock them but recently discontinued their orders.

Mr. Bad Guy
Jun 28, 2006
omfg you guys these things are so loving small how is this hobby a thing that people do. Some of the details on here are crazy tiny, I'm getting anxious just putting one of these fuckers together! Am I wrong for wanting to paint the arms separately before putting them on? It seems like it would be way harder to get at some parts if this dude was full assembled.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

omfg you guys these things are so loving small how is this hobby a thing that people do. Some of the details on here are crazy tiny, I'm getting anxious just putting one of these fuckers together! Am I wrong for wanting to paint the arms separately before putting them on? It seems like it would be way harder to get at some parts if this dude was full assembled.

Depends on what you are doing. It's pretty easy to glue things together after they're painted. I paint things in multiple parts all the time. I think my Primaris Marines have seven pieces (head, two shoulder pads, backpack, gun, body, base).

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

spectralent posted:

Red Box, though in this case through Hasslefree Miniatures in the UK who used to stock them but recently discontinued their orders.

Do you know what the scale is on their humans? It's not clear exactly how tall they are (I'm hoping for like 32mm, since most of my little guys are around that scale).

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

omfg you guys these things are so loving small how is this hobby a thing that people do. Some of the details on here are crazy tiny, I'm getting anxious just putting one of these fuckers together! Am I wrong for wanting to paint the arms separately before putting them on? It seems like it would be way harder to get at some parts if this dude was full assembled.

My general strategy is to assemble stuff as much as I can before painting so that I just have a couple subassemblies to put together at the end. Typically, I leave capes off, as well as arms if it'd be hard to get at the torso to paint it. Remember though that usually, if it'd be hard to get a brush in there, it's probably hard to see too, so you can just leave it some dark color and not worry too much. I used to paint before assembling 90% of the model, but I realized that's kind of a pain in the rear end a lot of the time.

Avenging Dentist fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Apr 21, 2018

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

Avenging Dentist posted:

Do you know what the scale is on their humans? It's not clear exactly how tall they are (I'm hoping for like 32mm, since most of my little guys are around that scale).

I'm unsure exactly, since I only have some trolls, but they look reasonable-looking alongside my 28 and 32mm figures. The troll itself is about 45mm tall.

Avenging Dentist posted:

My general strategy is to assemble stuff as much as I can before painting so that I just have a couple subassemblies to put together at the end. Typically, I leave capes off, as well as arms if it'd be hard to get at the torso to paint it. Remember though that usually, if it'd be hard to get a brush in there, it's probably hard to see too, so you can just leave it some dark color and not worry too much. I used to paint before assembling 90% of the model, but I realized that's kind of a pain in the rear end a lot of the time.

Yeah, only paint before gluing if it's somewhere that'll be visible but hard to reach, like bare skin visible below an armour cage or something.

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?
I'm not at home to take comparison pics but red box humans are closer to infinity models than gw heroic. Their goblins and Dwarves are very tiny but some of the newer sculpts for the human models are slightly larger scale.

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

omfg you guys these things are so loving small how is this hobby a thing that people do. Some of the details on here are crazy tiny, I'm getting anxious just putting one of these fuckers together! Am I wrong for wanting to paint the arms separately before putting them on? It seems like it would be way harder to get at some parts if this dude was full assembled.

You would think your hand steadies while holding your breath, but actually it steadies while you exhale. Exhale slowly while making delicate paint strokes.

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Chance II posted:

I'm not at home to take comparison pics but red box humans are closer to infinity models than gw heroic. Their goblins and Dwarves are very tiny but some of the newer sculpts for the human models are slightly larger scale.

Ok, cool. I think Infinity's even a smidge shorter than the stuff I have (though it's close); most of my guys are around Malifaux scale.

Big McHuge
Feb 5, 2014

You wait for the war to happen like vultures.
If you want to help, prevent the war.
Don't save the remnants.

Save them all.
Finally invested in a DSLR camera today. I didn't splurge for a Macro lens yet, but hopefully I'll have some test pictures up within the next day or so.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Avenging Dentist posted:

Ok, cool. I think Infinity's even a smidge shorter than the stuff I have (though it's close); most of my guys are around Malifaux scale.

I've not read the full context of your posts but I just saw Red Box and Infinity in the same scale and it is definitely incorrect.

Red Box shares realistic proportions with Infinity, but their stuff is definitely 'true' 28mm vs Heroic Scale or even 32mm.

Some of the older Infinity miniatures might be of a comparable-ish scale (maybe a smidge shorter), but their newer stuff (Icestorm onwards) is definitely bigger and chunkier. Malifaux is sold as 32/35mm and it's even bigger even if the proportions are more realistic.

I bought some of the Red Box stuff to try and they're basically off-scale with most common fantasy mini manufacturers apart from Hasslefree.

Unrelated, I finished painting an Armiger for 40k. First time trying out weathering, always been deathly afraid to ruin the paintjobs.

The Moon Monster
Dec 30, 2005

Mr. Bad Guy posted:

omfg you guys these things are so loving small how is this hobby a thing that people do. Some of the details on here are crazy tiny, I'm getting anxious just putting one of these fuckers together! Am I wrong for wanting to paint the arms separately before putting them on? It seems like it would be way harder to get at some parts if this dude was full assembled.

Ha, that was pretty much my reaction when I first bought some. They're that small, really? You get used to it.

Painting in sub-assemblies can be useful or more trouble than it's worth and a pain in the rear end depending on what you're doing. You risk scratching up your paint job, or getting glue on it, or getting a poor bond and etc. if you do things poorly. For a beginner painting rank and file dudes I'd recommend painting them fully assembled.

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!
Cut, cleaned and partially assembled a kill kan and it didn't take me 2 years what is this! Also my measly desk. I swear even when I bought a stand to organise my paints it ended up messier.

Big McHuge
Feb 5, 2014

You wait for the war to happen like vultures.
If you want to help, prevent the war.
Don't save the remnants.

Save them all.
First shots with DSLR. Seems to be a very shallow DoF, and it's possible that I'm over-lighting. Are there any good tutorials out there that any of you can recommend?


Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Big McHuge posted:

First shots with DSLR. Seems to be a very shallow DoF, and it's possible that I'm over-lighting. Are there any good tutorials out there that any of you can recommend?




Depth of field will always be shallower. with a dslr than a phone or compact camera. Your lighting looks pretty good, though I would try to diffuse the light just a little bit more.

MasterSlowPoke
Oct 9, 2005

Our courage will pull us through

Duct Tape posted:

Any advice on where to go with this style of base?

I wanted to break things up a bit, so I added slate chips. But they just look out of place.


Tried drybrushing the slate to match the ground, thinking it would let it blend in more, and it just looks ... odd.


Any ideas? I've got about a thousand wooden disks to try stuff out on with no consequence, so I'm free to shoot from the hips on ideas.

It looks odd because naturally, the dust would settle on the deep parts of the slate, not the edges exclusively. Try drybrushing but avoid the edges.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Big McHuge posted:

First shots with DSLR. Seems to be a very shallow DoF, and it's possible that I'm over-lighting. Are there any good tutorials out there that any of you can recommend?




Set to aperture priority and crank the F-value to 8. Then adjust your exposure levels to compensate as needed for the light.

High F = greater DoF but the overall image will be blurrier and you will need longer exposure times to compensate for the dimmness.

I spent ages fiddling with a DSLR trying to get nice shots but in the end I realised you don't really need all the customization offered by a DSLR. A macro lens is overkill unless you like photographing dust and having a super low DoF. A ring light is excellent though. A good (key word) compact can do better for much less effort - my Armiger above was shot using an Olympus TG-4. It has enough manual options to fiddle with the F-values, and an excellent macro mode if you need close shots.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

You can increase your depth of field by switching to a higher aperture. You should have an 'A' setting on the mode dial to let you set this higher. This will also mean you need more light and probably a slower shutter to compensate. Depending on what you are dealing with, you may want to use a stand for your camera and use the timer so you can get a long exposure without any movement blur.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

MasterSlowPoke posted:

It looks odd because naturally, the dust would settle on the deep parts of the slate, not the edges exclusively. Try drybrushing but avoid the edges.

I like stabbing the part with the drybrush to get that effect. Pigments might also make sense.

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

MasterSlowPoke posted:

It looks odd because naturally, the dust would settle on the deep parts of the slate, not the edges exclusively. Try drybrushing but avoid the edges.

Pigments make doing this trivially easy

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Duct Tape
Sep 30, 2004

Huh?

ijyt posted:

Slather on some orange weathering pigment to tie it all together.

MasterSlowPoke posted:

It looks odd because naturally, the dust would settle on the deep parts of the slate, not the edges exclusively. Try drybrushing but avoid the edges.

Booley posted:

Pigments make doing this trivially easy
I've never used pigments before, but they look nifty. I don't recall seeing them at my FLGS, but I'll take a look for them the next time I swing by. Also, are there any tutorials you'd recommend for applying them? The random videos I've found look pretty straight forward (apply pigment, fixer/alcohol, repeat for effect), but I want to make sure I'm not missing anything.

The first result is Secret Weapon's brand, do they have a good product?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply