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BloodBag posted:I'm not running a rear bar now, which suits me just fine since Phone recommended to run without one anyway. For what it's worth I hate my car when the rear bar is disconnected, both on stock suspension and with Xidas / big front bar / mazdaspeed rear bar. It's an understeery mess and slower than with the bar, both in an autocross setup and on track. Your driving style will come into play, along with alignment and dampening settings. Those who aren't running a rear bar often have higher spring rates and stiffer dampening settings to compensate. I'm only running 500# springs in the rear and my rear dampers are set pretty soft for autocross. I would recommend that you try autocrossing with and without the bar and see what you prefer. With new end links it's really easy to disconnect & reconnect the bar - you just need to undo one of the end links and zip tie it out of the way.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:17
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Are the doors on NB and NBFLs the same? Mine have a few dings and are a bit corroded at the bottom and a guy is selling two NB doors for like a hundred bucks.
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Apr 23, 2018 17:18
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Yeah, my advice for disconnecting the rear is primarily for a car that is on coilovers with aggressive spring rates and has been lowered substantially for a dual purpose track/autocross car. The rear bar does balance the car; however, if you need droop travel for fast (read: violent) transitions, disconnecting it makes the car drivable.
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Apr 23, 2018 17:45
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Ah, that clears things up a bit. I will find some new bolts and connect the rear bar.
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Apr 23, 2018 18:16
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The big thing here is to try both ways, back to back on the same day and the same course if you can. Learn how the car works with and without the bar so that you can decide if it's right for you. There's a guy I autocross with who has almost the exact same setup as I do, except he likes the rear bar disconnected. When I jump in his car for a run I'm slower than my times in my car, and vice versa for him in my car. It comes down to preference and course - I'm sure there are some courses where I'd be quicker without the rear bar. When it's raining I take the rear bar off right away, unless I'm going for sideways and smiling.
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Apr 23, 2018 21:17
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Got the new top on. It's as tight as a drum, hopefully it'll loosen up over time.   Tan looks way better on blue than black. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 04:19 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 04:17
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Sharp!
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Apr 24, 2018 05:00
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um excuse me posted:Got the new top on. It's as tight as a drum, hopefully it'll loosen up over time. I replaced the top on my NA a couple years back. First time it was nearly impossible to get it up and latched. By the next day it was manageable by one person inside the car and it got easier over time, but it is still significantly tighter than the worn out one I took off, or the stock soft top on my NB. This was not OEM though, but some aftermarket one. Don't know what it is with you americans, a black top looks better than tan on almost any color Miata except british racing green and possibly black. 
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Apr 24, 2018 07:19
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Ether Frenzy posted:That red one is super clean and practically brand new looking. I craigslist-emailed that seller to see if it was still available, but haven't heard back. (I won't steal your car kimcicle if you're trying to actually buy it!) Red is probably not exactly what I want, and I'm sort of torn on the 'museum condition' situation as I already have one car I care about and don't need to add to that end of the fleet. Red one ghosted on me, ad is gone. I've been still on the hunt for any NA that doesn't look like its owned by an idiot, but I think my luck is going to run out as the weather is getting nicer and nicer. Sick of seeing slammed / hellaflush shitboxes with mismatched panels on craigslist asking for $4000 with 225k on the chassis. I'm super jealous of the one you picked up though, enjoy it!
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Apr 24, 2018 08:02
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50 miles on the track today, zero issues, lots of fun 
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Apr 24, 2018 20:33
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kimcicle posted:Red one ghosted on me, ad is gone. I've been still on the hunt for any NA that doesn't look like its owned by an idiot, but I think my luck is going to run out as the weather is getting nicer and nicer. Sick of seeing slammed / hellaflush shitboxes with mismatched panels on craigslist asking for $4000 with 225k on the chassis. I'm super jealous of the one you picked up though, enjoy it! Thanks, I'm somewhat amazed to have stumbled onto it with such little effort, not having a succession of 17 year old idiots 'improving it' for the last decade and a half is great and the seller was super cool/honest and it was one of the easiest purchases ever as well. Good luck with your search! I'm really enjoying the car so far and I have yet to drive it anywhere with the roof up. Hooray LA.
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Apr 25, 2018 21:47
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After driving to work, I've noticed that the car sits like a cat in heat, all rear end-high. All four struts are on the highest spring perch setting. It's looking like the front is fine and the rear needs to be at the lowest circlip. Anyone have any input on this? I don't want to get bounced from my class for something so chickenshit, but I can't imagine having the back end in the air would net me any performance gain.
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Apr 26, 2018 18:28
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BloodBag posted:After driving to work, I've noticed that the car sits like a cat in heat, all rear end-high. All four struts are on the highest spring perch setting. It's looking like the front is fine and the rear needs to be at the lowest circlip. Anyone have any input on this? I don't want to get bounced from my class for something so chickenshit, but I can't imagine having the back end in the air would net me any performance gain. I'm sure you've thought of this already, but: did you put the front springs on the front shocks?
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Apr 26, 2018 18:47
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I'm sure you've thought of this already, but: did you put the front springs on the front shocks? I did. I wonder, do NB miatas have longer rear springs than NA's in the rear? I'm starting to think the ebay specials I picked up may be from a newer car than my 95.
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Apr 26, 2018 19:05
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IIRC they do. There are different top mounts for the rear with NBs, which some people switch to for NAs to drop about an inch. Mystery Ebay brand parts who knows what they're for, you might have to tape measure them and see if they're right.
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Apr 26, 2018 20:56
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Pinch weld height?
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Apr 27, 2018 01:59
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Miata thread, thoughts? https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata/6568626689.html Should I be worried that there are no plates on the car? Carfax shows that it was sold at auction on the 16th of this month, is it a quick flip? No accidents, under 100k miles. Ad says automatic, but looks like it's a manual transmission?
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Apr 27, 2018 06:15
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kimcicle posted:Miata thread, thoughts? https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/1991-mazda-miata/6568626689.html Wouldn't care about the plates as long as the title is clean. Though here (MI) the plates don't travel with the car. Looks more or less fine, but the radiator is getting long in the tooth. When they turn brown, they're about to pop since they're plastic. Brake fluid doesn't look 20 years old, so that's nice. I'd inquire when the timing belt was done, if ever. Definitely getting up there in age if it hasn't, but nothing will break if it snaps, but it'll leave you on the side of the road. And yeah, that's a manual.
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Apr 27, 2018 13:01
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Plates stay with the car in California, though you just specify it didn't have plates when you bought it, they dig in the drawer at the DMV and you accidentally get plate number 1GAY420.
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Apr 27, 2018 15:44
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Welp just sheared off the grade 10.9 pivot bolt for the alternator by hand.  Can't physically fit a drill in to drill it out so I guess I'm pulling the motor in what was supposed to be a simple belt replacement job? Less than 3mm of the end of the bolt sticking out the other side so vise grips are not even close to gaining enough purchase. Thanks Mazda.
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May 2, 2018 00:12
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puberty worked me over posted:Welp just sheared off the grade 10.9 pivot bolt for the alternator by hand. Man I don't get this. My winter driven miata (it's a summer car now) the alternator was free to rotate on that bolt just by loosening the tensioner. You don't need to undo the bolt for the alternator to be able to rotate. I'd see if you can wedge a pry bar in and try and get it moving. Have you tried backing off on the tensioner and seeing if it'll move?
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May 2, 2018 01:24
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 2, 2018 01:28
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puberty worked me over posted:The alternator moves just fine. This is the lower pivot bolt, not the adjustment bolt. All that's left of the pivot is 1/4th of it stuck in the threads. So I need to remove said 1/4th of a pivot bolt and replace it. The only way I can figure to do that is drill it out. Are you trying to remove the alternator? You don't need to touch the pivot bolt for a belt replacement. TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 01:29
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 2, 2018 01:41
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puberty worked me over posted:Right but you can't just leave 1/4th of a bolt in the alternator mount. Now that the pivot bolt is sheared off it needs to be replaced and tightened down so that the alternator can't shift around while operating the vehicle. The adjustment locking bolt is not enough to keep it in place properly. My alternator bolt is tight as can be and the alternator pivots on it. The adjustment locking bolt is more than enough to keep it in place. The bolt isn't broken, and threads in properly. I've got lots of track miles on it without issue.
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May 2, 2018 01:46
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Weld a nut to it, the alternator is aluminum and the weld won't stick to it.
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May 2, 2018 02:12
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That's my idea, you already are planning to pull the engine, trying to weld on it, even hiring a welder if you don't have one isn't going to make it worse. If it was me I'd only charge for showing up if it ended up impossible to weld.
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May 2, 2018 12:08
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TrueChaos posted:My alternator bolt is tight as can be and the alternator pivots on it. The adjustment locking bolt is more than enough to keep it in place. The bolt isn't broken, and threads in properly. I've got lots of track miles on it without issue. Yeah, but he probably doesn't care about your bolt because his is already broken. For what its worth, my alternator won't budge without loosening the pivot bolt so I assume his is similar.
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May 2, 2018 16:18
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Harbor freight right angle/close-quarters drill, my man. Aside from welding a nut and turning the fucker out. Mine also was tight as a mother, but had been so loose earlier in it's life that it wallowed the hole out through the oil pump and block. I have a picture of it somewhere. I still need to drill & sleeve that poo poo when I pull the engine. When I reinstalled it, I tightened it until it loosened again then backed off a quarter turn  drill
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May 2, 2018 20:39
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 08:00 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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May 3, 2018 02:58
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Besides 200 treadwear tires, what's the first things to do to a Miata that will still keep it SCCA street-class legal? I'm wayyyyyyyy overdue on the timing belt change (I was basically just going to run it to destruction originally) so some mild in-the-engine stuff isn't entirely out of the question either.
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May 7, 2018 02:32
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What are you trying to do? Autocross an Na/NB?
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May 7, 2018 02:57
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Hi Miata thread! I did a race with mine, I also broke the car like this:I posted:E: The instructor was right in saying I needed front bar. What neither of us knew is that both bars had pulled the upper bushing from one swaybar endlink. Guess I'll head to the miata thread to figure out how to stop this from happening. I'm guessing bigass washers... It looks like I need to take the whole suspension back apart and do it right this time, I just wonder how the hell I keep the endlink rubber things from pulling out. Like I said in the racing thread, I have no idea what I'm doing, but I'm eager to learn. AXing a miata with no bars makes a lot of scraping noises in corners. AX is a blast and this old beater is way more capable than my brain allows it to be. I'm still terrified of rolling over. Fastest novice time was 50.391 and my best was 64.254, at least I didn't go off track or hit any cones!
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May 7, 2018 11:01
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I've never seen something like that happen. Are you sure they're the right bushings?
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May 7, 2018 15:25
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They're not really vertically mounted either (2nd pic of rears), which makes perfect sense why they pulled out. Aka the sway bar mounting hole should be more or less right above where it's mounted to the suspension, not offset. The bar is going to move up and down only and should never load the end links like that and they aren't meant to handle lateral forces. Are you sure the sway bar is correct (and hasn't drifted more to one side), too? And you don't have something funky like the wrong control arms on the car? That's seems strange and looks different than a couple GIS pics I found. Edit: I guess other pics I found show that as more or less normal. Seems like a bad idea to me. I'd get ones that have a ball joint on the end vs. a bushing. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 16:24 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 16:16
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Between the rake and now this, your car is super weird. If the swaybar is shifting to one side (which wouldn't be surprising if one endlink failed before the other), you can lock it side-to-side with hose clamps.
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May 7, 2018 16:27
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Between the rake and now this, your car is super weird. I thought I made it clear I have no idea what I'm doing. I just put it all back on the way it was when I got it. It's not surprising to me considering the car was super hosed up by the PO. One of the problems is I have no diagrams for how this stuff is supposed to go back together. RC cars are a bit easier than this in that respect. I guess Jim ellis is a good place to look at diagrams? My car I think was jumped at one point because it seems like the whole thing is bent. Like I have a whole 'nother click on the jackstands when I put one under the right rear compared to the rest. For example: I don't know how to drive. My fat rear end was bracing against the center console through the whole course instead of keeping hands on the wheel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-Vd3IVAUwY e: for the front bar, it looks like a lot of people put the end links on the inside of the bar, and it looks like that's where they're supposed to go just by looking at it from my picture. The rears look like the outside is where they go. I'm so lost. BloodBag fucked around with this message at 17:19 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 17:06
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Your car seems very weird. Maybe your springs are too long in the rear, giving you the ride height issues at reasonable spring perch levels? I've never seen that happen with swaybars though.
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May 7, 2018 17:54
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Can someone loving explain tires to me please. I have an ND with Bridgestone protenza s-01 tires that came with the club trim. I will have to replace them soon, they are ~190$ a tire. However, continental extreme contact sports are ~110$ a tire, but as far as I can tell perform just as well. What gives?
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May 7, 2018 19:47
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OEM tires are always like that. My personal belief is that they’re priced like that to sucker the people who don’t know better and want the same tires as before. If you’re looking at the DW Contis, why not the PSS or PS4?
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May 7, 2018 19:51
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