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BubbaGrace
Jul 14, 2006

They make a drill bit called a socket saver to remove plastic fittings from a hub. You could give it a shot, which would allow you to glue in a short run of pipe to connect another wye with a clean out on the end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQGssYM5C2M

EDIT: Make sure you ream the end after using the bit, unlike the rear end in a top hat in the video above.

BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 15:21 on Apr 22, 2018

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HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Pooh goes downhill. Branching off the clean-out seems like a great way to get all the waste from the rest of the house into your basement. Best way, I think, would be to cut out one your wyes and replace it with a double wye. In your case it looks like you'll need cut above the 22, meaning you'll need a double wye, three repair couplings, a new 22 elbow, and a few scraps of straight PVC of the correct diameter.

Double wye: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-3-in-Dia-PVC-Double-Wye-Fitting/3358078

BubbaGrace
Jul 14, 2006

HycoCam posted:

Pooh goes downhill. Branching off the clean-out seems like a great way to get all the waste from the rest of the house into your basement. Best way, I think, would be to cut out one your wyes and replace it with a double wye. In your case it looks like you'll need cut above the 22, meaning you'll need a double wye, three repair couplings, a new 22 elbow, and a few scraps of straight PVC of the correct diameter.

Double wye: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-Pipe-3-in-Dia-PVC-Double-Wye-Fitting/3358078

As a service guy, I want to go on record right now by saying "I hate you". Double wyes, tees and crosses are the devil. How is he going to get the waste water in his basement? If the building drain penetration through that wall has proper pitch, tying on the to where the current clean out is should be fine. The only way it would get into his basement is if he has a building sewer back up some where in the yard. To prevent this he could easily install a back-water valve in-line on his new drain pipe from the water closet. Back water valves are actually required on any basement fixture branch by code as of April 2017 in my state.

BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Apr 23, 2018

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


I did mention it was a macerator toilet, but maybe that doesn't necessarily imply the full situation: the toilet in question is specifically designed to go below the level of the rest of the sewer. It grinds your beefy shits up, and then pumps them uphill. Supposedly the one in question also has an input for other waste water, so he'll be able to drain a shower through it. Toilet will chew turds, and then pump the paste up well above the level of the cleanout, where it can fall back downhill and exit the premises through the usual mechanism. Because of the unique qualifications of the toilet, I'm going to go out on a limb and say it has back flow prevention. Otherwise, that'd make for a remarkable bidet-type situation. ))<>((

Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Apr 24, 2018

Nitrox
Jul 5, 2002
Macerator pump will have like a 2" dump tube. Just splice a wye into a piece of straight pvc. Don't mess with the cleanout.

Bad Munki posted:

Maserati toilet
Wroom



Unrelated question. I'm shopping for a tankless water heater, and loving things are expensive. Does anyone know where a good deal could be found?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Nitrox posted:

Unrelated question. I'm shopping for a tankless water heater, and loving things are expensive. Does anyone know where a good deal could be found?

You don't want a good deal. You want a good unit, or you will absolutely hate it.

I know several people with Naviens - they seem to be the go-to for a quality unit these days. Also - install matters. A lot. You want someone who knows how these things work.

lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
My sink faucet seems to squeal. I turned off hot/cold and it still makes the sound regardless so I guess it's the faucet? I can't seem to find a way to take the handle off if that's even possible.

I can't also find a manufacturer to see if its still covered under warranty. Any suggestions or ideas?

Link/Video of sound: https://www.dropbox.com/s/u8kikk2i1vmbzge/VID_20180430_120748.mp4?dl=0

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Is the video working for anyone else?

lol internet.
Sep 4, 2007
the internet makes you stupid
Are you using the SALR extension? Maybe try this link in a browser window: h**ps://www.dropbox.com/s/u8kikk2i1vmbzge/VID_20180430_120748.mp4?dl=0

Messadiah
Jan 12, 2001

lol internet. posted:

I can't seem to find a way to take the handle off if that's even possible.

Behind the little yin/yang hot/cold symbol is a set screw to remove the handle.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
After seeing a couple things recently about "sacrificial anodes" in hot water heaters, I figured it's probably time to check on mine. The unit was installed in 2011 (I bought the house in 2015,) and knowing what I do about the previous home-owner, there's no way he replaced it before I bought it.

I just don't know where the darn thing is. Here's the top of the thing:


Here's the part in the manual describing it:


So...does that mean it's under/part of the hot water outlet here?:

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

DrBouvenstein posted:

So...does that mean it's under/part of the hot water outlet here?:


Yep! Ain't that a bitch? The method for getting them out is an even worse bitch if you don't have enough ceiling clearance to pull it straight up and out. It basically goes 1. pull up rod as far as you can 2. clamp bottom of rod with vice grips 3. cut through rod 4. repeat until rod is completely out. The vice grips are so you don't drop the rod in the tank.

7 years old should still be good. You probably got a few more years. Still, when you get around to it, you could probably use some dielectric unions.

edit: they make replacement anode rods that go in easier. They're kinda shaped like old school sausage links. They got the anode split up along a stainless steel braided cable so it's flexible.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:59 on May 1, 2018

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Is this where to ask about yard irrigation equipment or is there a better place?

Not Wolverine
Jul 1, 2007

DrBouvenstein posted:

After seeing a couple things recently about "sacrificial anodes" in hot water heaters, I figured it's probably time to check on mine. The unit was installed in 2011 (I bought the house in 2015,) and knowing what I do about the previous home-owner, there's no way he replaced it before I bought it.

I just don't know where the darn thing is. Here's the top of the thing:


Here's the part in the manual describing it:


So...does that mean it's under/part of the hot water outlet here?:

My water heater is equally screwed but 13 years old. The sacrifical anode is on the hot water line, and I guess removal is going to involve cutting the pipe. I am not sure if there is any easier way to change the rod, I think it might be possible to replace a section of the copper with like a flexible braided steel line to make future replacement easier but I have minimal plumbing knowledge. I have been in the house 3yrs, I only attempted to drain sediment from the tank one time and the water came out clear so I guess maybe the recommended monthly drain might not be necessary.

Crazyweasel
Oct 29, 2006
lazy

I saw a puddle around the salt tank in my basement and when I inspected it, the water wasn't salty and there was a ton of condensation on the tank so I figured oh hey neat condensation. Well 4 days later it's still there, same size, so I investigate again and low and behold a drop comes from above.

5 year old house, WaterPEX by Watts piping, looks like a pinhole leak in the middle of a span.

All I can find online is that this isn't supposed to happen with PEX, but what I really want to know is it a ticking time bomb to a large crack or failure that is going to spew water everywhere, or does that not really happen?

I can't find anything on defective product, so I guess my option is to tape it until I learn/pay someone to put a proper repair in. Thoughts?

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble
So I have a periodic sewer smell coming from somewhere, but I can't tell where. We've flushed and ran water down all possible sinks and drains, so I don't think there's a dry P-trap somewhere that would be letting the smell out. Is the next step to check the vent? What do I do besides look at it and go "yep it's there"?

BubbaGrace
Jul 14, 2006

Frinkahedron posted:

So I have a periodic sewer smell coming from somewhere, but I can't tell where. We've flushed and ran water down all possible sinks and drains, so I don't think there's a dry P-trap somewhere that would be letting the smell out. Is the next step to check the vent? What do I do besides look at it and go "yep it's there"?

Sometimes there can be a smell coming from the the hot water similar to a sewage smell. The sulfur like smell is from the magnesium/aluminum anode rode reacting with the hydrogen to create a sulfate, which has a farts smell. If the water heater is less than 10 years old and doesn't leak I would recommend having the anode rod replaced and the tank flushed. This is all based on if you can isolate the smell down to only when the smell is happening when the hot water is running through the fixtures.

BubbaGrace fucked around with this message at 00:40 on May 15, 2018

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Any of your toilets loose on their flange bolts?

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble

BubbaGrace posted:

Sometimes there can be a smell coming from the the hot water similar to a sewage smell. The sulfur like smell is from the magnesium/aluminum anode rode reacting with the hydrogen to create a sulfate, which has a farts smell. If the water heater is less than 10 years old and doesn't leak I would recommend having the anode rod replaced and the tank flushed. This is all based on if you can isolate the smell down to only when the smell is happening when the hot water is running through the fixtures.

Hmm, haven't noticed it correlating with hot water, but I'll see if that shakes anything out.

Bad Munki posted:

Any of your toilets loose on their flange bolts?

Negative.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
The hot water in my apartment smells like farts for the first gallon or so and now I know why.

jackpot
Aug 31, 2004

First cousin to the Black Rabbit himself. Such was Woundwort's monument...and perhaps it would not have displeased him.<
Is there anything about this picture that says to you "Yes, it's obvious that X and Y are the knobs you turn to de-winterize your irrigation system"? Or is it not that simple? (nothing is ever that simple)

jackpot fucked around with this message at 05:13 on May 15, 2018

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
I'd turn the vertical red valve a quarter turn 1st.
The horizontal one a quarter turn 2nd.

BubbaGrace
Jul 14, 2006

HycoCam posted:

I'd turn the vertical red valve a quarter turn 1st.
The horizontal one a quarter turn 2nd.

lol

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!

Frinkahedron posted:

So I have a periodic sewer smell coming from somewhere, but I can't tell where. We've flushed and ran water down all possible sinks and drains, so I don't think there's a dry P-trap somewhere that would be letting the smell out. Is the next step to check the vent? What do I do besides look at it and go "yep it's there"?

Do you have basement floor drains?

Frinkahedron
Jul 26, 2006

Gobble Gobble

HycoCam posted:

Do you have basement floor drains?

I do! And it turns out, this may have been it, missed it the first time around. We poured a gallon of water down it last night and it's been 24 hours since the smell, holding onto hope for the next few days :ohdear:

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Do you guys use hoses like these where you are? And what they are called if so.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/VVS/PEM-plastrorsystem/PEM-slang-2000031784/

PEM hose is what we call them but I have not found anything in english. Used for cold water piping mainly. I wanted to go look for some cheaper couplings and stuff online but it's a bit difficult when you don't know what to search for.

Slugworth
Feb 18, 2001

If two grown men can't make a pervert happy for a few minutes in order to watch a film about zombies, then maybe we should all just move to Iran!

His Divine Shadow posted:

Do you guys use hoses like these where you are? And what they are called if so.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/VVS/PEM-plastrorsystem/PEM-slang-2000031784/

PEX pipe

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
No it's not PEX, we got PEX hose here too and that's got the same name. But I went and bought the stuff I needed locally anyway so I could have it all done today. And now it's 21:00 and it's not going to be done for days since I got one wrong part :v:

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

His Divine Shadow posted:

Do you guys use hoses like these where you are? And what they are called if so.
http://www.biltema.se/sv/Bygg/VVS/PEM-plastrorsystem/PEM-slang-2000031784/

PEM hose is what we call them but I have not found anything in english. Used for cold water piping mainly. I wanted to go look for some cheaper couplings and stuff online but it's a bit difficult when you don't know what to search for.

Is that to hook up an air gap from a Dishwasher?

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
No PEM hoses, apparently polyethylene or something like that are used for underground water mains and outdoor cold water lines.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-in-x-100-ft-IPS-100-psi-NSF-Poly-Pipe-X2-1100100/205903465

Polyethylene pipe is I think what you are asking about.

Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

Ya but that Poly pipe isnt allowed for water mains, that is some irrigation bullshit.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Well pipe: https://www.lowes.com/pd/ADS-1-in-x-100-ft-160-PSI-Plastic-Coil-Pipe/3514728

Same pipe, but higher PSI. Well poly typically ranges from 1" to 1.5" and 160psi to 250psi. Which pipe you want to use is going to be a factor of your well pump and your well depth (and pressure tank and the water level below the ground.)

VERTiG0
Jul 11, 2001

go move over bro
One out of my outdoor hose spigots has a plastic connector to quickly screw and unscrew hoses, and the whole outer barrel rotates freely. I want to remove it. It leaks like crazy when I turn the valve. I don't know what the hell to call it. Inside the unit is a spring loaded pin that I can pull down, and when I release that it returns up inside the whole thing. There's no obvious way for me to take the whole thing off, unless this is a one-piece thing that includes the valve itself. Here's some photos.

Off:



On, and leaking out of the top:



Any thoughts?

{edit} It appears to be a Watts 8P "non-removable" anti-tamper thermoplastic connector. gently caress

VERTiG0 fucked around with this message at 23:59 on May 23, 2018

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

VERTiG0 posted:

One out of my outdoor hose spigots has a plastic connector to quickly screw and unscrew hoses, and the whole outer barrel rotates freely. I want to remove it. It leaks like crazy when I turn the valve. I don't know what the hell to call it. Inside the unit is a spring loaded pin that I can pull down, and when I release that it returns up inside the whole thing. There's no obvious way for me to take the whole thing off, unless this is a one-piece thing that includes the valve itself. Here's some photos.

Off:



On, and leaking out of the top:



Any thoughts?

{edit} It appears to be a Watts 8P "non-removable" anti-tamper thermoplastic connector. gently caress

Dremel with a cut off wheel. Worst case it looks like you have enough pipe left to be easily able to replace the entire spigot.

VERTiG0
Jul 11, 2001

go move over bro

devicenull posted:

Dremel with a cut off wheel. Worst case it looks like you have enough pipe left to be easily able to replace the entire spigot.

That's what I was afraid of. I've got a plumber coming in to install a water softener, maybe I'll have him replace this whole thing at the same time.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer

VERTiG0 posted:

That's what I was afraid of. I've got a plumber coming in to install a water softener, maybe I'll have him replace this whole thing at the same time.

I'd at least try to cut off the plastic bit (if you already have the necessary tools). Worst case, you have to get it replaced anyway. Well... worst case as long as you don't somehow cut through the pipe.

The Gardenator
May 4, 2007


Yams Fan
Looks like you could just come from the top of the plastic with a screwdriver and hammer and pop it off. That or rip pieces of it off from underneath with a wrench.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Take a hammer in each hand and cymbal the damned thing. No need to pay a plumber.

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Turd Herder
May 21, 2008

BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK BALLCOCK

VERTiG0 posted:

One out of my outdoor hose spigots has a plastic connector to quickly screw and unscrew hoses, and the whole outer barrel rotates freely. I want to remove it. It leaks like crazy when I turn the valve. I don't know what the hell to call it. Inside the unit is a spring loaded pin that I can pull down, and when I release that it returns up inside the whole thing. There's no obvious way for me to take the whole thing off, unless this is a one-piece thing that includes the valve itself. Here's some photos.

Off:



On, and leaking out of the top:



Any thoughts?

{edit} It appears to be a Watts 8P "non-removable" anti-tamper thermoplastic connector. gently caress

I'm pretty sure those are easy to remove. I think its a coiled spring is what holds it onto the threads. You have to grab onto it with a good pair of channel locks and push down while turning.

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