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That scenario ends with me holding the manual and you know it
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Apr 24, 2018 02:35
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Thanks for the replies. I test drove an Accord today. It was alright I guess. I'll try some other stuff some other time. Thanks for reading my exciting post.
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Apr 24, 2018 02:40
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I put 3500 miles on my car last year. Should I just lease a new car? I don't really want a new car, but also this is pretty inexpensive.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:12
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FogHelmut posted:I put 3500 miles on my car last year. Is there a reason you need to change cars? This is BFC, so the answer is going to be to keep the one you've got. The cheapest thing to do is generally keep the one you have until the wheels fall off. If you can afford something new and dislike your current ride, then fine.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:16
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Looked at a '99 Impreza Outback Sport with the 2.2H and over 300k miles today, and the car itself was actually pretty good. Not the prettiest on the outside, but the paint wasn't falling off and the interior was in good shape. Dude selling it also obviously took care of it, as he was showing off all the work he had done to keep it in top shape. The only thing that made me wary, was the guy was adamant about not riding the clutch or keeping the clutch in at a light. Said he threw the clutch in 600 miles ago, but it has all been highway and he's still worried that riding it will glaze it, and just doesn't believe in holding the clutch at a light, period. Though he did say I was free to romp on it to see for myself that the clutch is new and doesn't slip. Guy was firm at $2200, and honestly the car seemed worth it, but I walked away because the A/C doesn't function at all--doesn't even try to cycle, and A/C is a requirement to survive summer. As I told the guy, A/C is one of the only things I'm not equipped to handle myself (all the equipment is expensive; even just a proper vacuum pump), and while I'll use them for a vehicle I already own, I want to avoid an A/C shop as much as possible (they tend to be shady and I've had bad experiences in the past). So he said he has a friend that has the necessary equipment, and he personally knows where those systems commonly fail (he thinks it's probably the banjo-style (I forget the actual name) fitting on the compressor) , so he asked if I'd still be interested if they got it fixed and running, and I told him if they got it running and holding pressure, I'd come to pick it up. So we'll see how that goes.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:44
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The King of Swag posted:Looked at a '99 Impreza Outback Sport with the 2.2H and over 300k miles today, and the car itself was actually pretty good. Not the prettiest on the outside, but the paint wasn't falling off and the interior was in good shape. Dude selling it also obviously took care of it, as he was showing off all the work he had done to keep it in top shape. The only thing that made me wary, was the guy was adamant about not riding the clutch or keeping the clutch in at a light. Said he threw the clutch in 600 miles ago, but it has all been highway and he's still worried that riding it will glaze it, and just doesn't believe in holding the clutch at a light, period. Though he did say I was free to romp on it to see for myself that the clutch is new and doesn't slip.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:51
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Deteriorata posted:Is there a reason you need to change cars? This is BFC, so the answer is going to be to keep the one you've got. I've outgrown my paid off Subaru with only 68k miles and it doesn't even burn oil.
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Apr 24, 2018 04:00
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FogHelmut posted:I've outgrown my paid off Subaru with only 68k miles and it doesn't even burn oil. Buy a miata. You could also consider juat renting carsģcar share unless you drive every day. Oto, you could be me who owns 2 cars and drives a combined 5000mi. Maybe.
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Apr 24, 2018 04:03
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nm posted:
hello
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Apr 24, 2018 17:31
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The King of Swag posted:So gently caress you Carson City Toyota; you're the type of dealer that's the reason I have spent years telling people that not every dealer is crooked, but you do need to do your research and be willing to back away from any deal if things go sideways. Lol nearly every dealer in northern Nevada is nothing but unrepentant shitbags. The only one I’ve had decent luck with is Reno Subaru. Jones West has a $2000 markup over MSRP on everything while advertising that they won’t be beat on price. Reno Toyota puts nitrogen in the tires and some clear bra on the door edges and tries to charge 600 dollars for it. Reno Honda has the scam where they buy you new tires whenever yours wear out but only if you do 3x the manufacturers recommended maintenance at 300% markup.
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Apr 24, 2018 19:54
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veiled boner fuel posted:...Dealers... I've had good luck at Dolan Mazda/Kia in Reno, but admittedly my interaction has been through the service dept. and looking around the lot. I won't get into it, but I personally think it's corporate policy for Honda dealers to be crooked. Keyes Honda in Van Nuys is probably the worst dealer I've ever dealt with as a customer or professionally.
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Apr 24, 2018 23:12
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https://www.findlaycjdr.com/inventory/2016-honda-civic-ex-t-fwd-4d-sedan-19xfc1f37ge006677 This is probably my favorite car so far other than the Mazda3 that turned out to be a complete shitter. (ask me about calling the service dept of the former dealer who sold it to this dealer wholesale and told me all about its problems.) I'm into the color and it seems fairly rare on the 10th Gen, which I like. please take a look at the pricing, carfax, etc and tell me what you guys think. Salesguy sent me a video of the interior and it looks very clean. (why is there a single photo on the website? I don't know. But I'm going to take a look tomorrow and will look for imperfections.) Cretin90 fucked around with this message at 02:49 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 02:20
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There are more Mazdas in the sea if you want one.
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Apr 25, 2018 13:58
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As much as I generally trust Honda to make a reliable car, I would not buy a first generation new platform, new engine, new transmission car until the second model year, which will receive a substantial production improvements package. There are a lot more mazdas
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Apr 25, 2018 18:04
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IRQ posted:There are more Mazdas in the sea if you want one. Literally
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Apr 25, 2018 18:59
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Looking at a 2018 Equinox. Opinions? Local dealer looks like it has an ok sale this weekend. Currently drive a Trailblazer; like sitting high. Don't want a big suburban, but want some power. Safety should be decent. Hopefully something without too much maintenance.
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Apr 29, 2018 00:11
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They're pretty mediocre, but if you like it I guess? I strongly recommend driving all the other competition, I bet you like some of them better.
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Apr 29, 2018 02:14
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logis posted:Looking at a 2018 Equinox. Opinions? Local dealer looks like it has an ok sale this weekend. It's not in the top half of vehicles in that class. I'd only get one if it's WAY cheaper than a Mazda CX-5, Honda CR-V, or Ford Edge. Also look at the Hyundai / Kia crossovers, those are a great value.
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Apr 29, 2018 03:28
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Unless you are compelled to buy GM product, do not buy the Equinox.
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Apr 29, 2018 21:22
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I'm in the market for a mini van. I'm Canadian, Reliability/total cost of ownership is the most important thing to me and I will almost certainly buy a CPO from a dealership. Budget is 25k. Currently I'm not sure between a 2013-2014 Toyota Sienna for around 25k with 80-90k km on it or a 2018 Kia Sedona with 30k km on it for around the same price. I love Toyota and would keep buying their boring car forever (my Yaris is the bee's knees) but I'm thinking that 4 year of wear/improvement might just trump the reliability advantage... Especially with the warranty difference. Thoughts?
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Apr 30, 2018 01:33
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cpo is bullshit
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Apr 30, 2018 02:04
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It doesn't seem to come at much of a premium vs the same car from a dealer. I don't think I feel like I know enough to buy from a private seller
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Apr 30, 2018 02:23
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KingColliwog posted:Reliability/total cost of ownership In all reality, minivans get a whole lot of attention from manufacturers and there is a really stiff competition in that market segment. Some minivans are running around with 300k miles on original engine/transmission, across many brands except maybe Nissan. Give Chrysler Pacifica/Town&Country a long hard look, they are outstanding minivans in my personal experience. Sienna is fine, and offers nothing other than slightly better resale value.
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Apr 30, 2018 05:13
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I am an australian looking for a cheap used car to use for getting around on the weekend to places not well served by public transport and for my partner to use to learn how to drive. Budget AU$3000 but I can bump it up if its going to make a significant difference. Key points are: Safety Reliability Working airconditioning. 4 door and enough space to fold down the rear seat and fit a bicycle in there would be a bonus. Im guessing i should be looking at early 2000s holden commodores, mazda 3s etc but dont know if theres too many risks at that price point or if i can get a lot more for not much extra. Main reasons i want to keep the price low is it being used as a learner car so i assume its going to get thrashed a bit. And theres a chance we'd move and our car usage patterns would change significantly sometime in the next couple of years.
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Apr 30, 2018 09:51
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Going to look at an '05 2.5T Outback XT later today; owner says it's going to need a timing belt soon (next 30k miles), and the car comes with a folder of all work done since it was new. Here's hoping it ends up being a gem: I am sick and tired of looking at cars by this point.
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Apr 30, 2018 17:21
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A Banana posted:I am an australian looking for a cheap used car to use for getting around on the weekend to places not well served by public transport and for my partner to use to learn how to drive. I don't really know how poo poo works in AUS but for the US, by the time you get down to that range you have a couple of challenges: 1) Any car you buy for three grand is going to imminently require $500-2000 in work. Budget accordingly. 2) Nothing you can buy for $3,000 is particularly safe compared to modern cars. That's OK - people survived being driven around in Geo Trackers and poo poo, so it's not a guaranteed death sentence. If you are really worried about safety you should go newer and spend more money for something with side curtain airbags and stability/traction control. Make sure no matter what you buy you at least have driver and passenger airbags and ABS. 3) At this price point service history of the individual car matters more than the overall brand.
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Apr 30, 2018 18:32
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So I went ahead and purchased that '05 2.5T Outback XT, for $4500. The bad:
The good:
This car has had a lot of money spent on it in the last few years. Clutch & flywheel, wheel bearings, brakes twice, tires on all corners 3 times, and lots of general repair work, like the issues mentioned above. It's obvious this thing got drove hard, which makes perfect sense, as the guy said he's selling it on behalf of his son going to college in Wyoming, who's selling it because he wants the money to support his current car (which I can't remember what it is). That's ultimately why I went ahead and still bought it--it has been my experience that you can drive a car hard (and/or put a million miles on it) and have it be no worse for wear, if you're willing to stay on top and maintain it, replacing things as they wear out. Also of course, because I climbed under the car and also test drove it, and not only did all the suspension and bushings look good, but the car drove great. No weird clunks or noises, and everything was nice and tight when throwing it about, trying to find any suspension or AWD issues. Trans super smooth with no crunchy syncros or vague shifts; engine smooth as silk, also with no weird noises. Here's hoping this car ends up being a good one, and I didn't overlook something critical and make a huge mistake.
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May 1, 2018 04:52
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The King of Swag posted:Here's hoping this car ends up being a good one, and I didn't overlook something critical and make a huge mistake. There's always the chance of something unexpected blowing up no matter how carefully you shop. Sounds like you did your homework and did the best you can, regardless. I hope you enjoy the car for a long time!
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May 1, 2018 14:57
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Deteriorata posted:There's always the chance of something unexpected blowing up no matter how carefully you shop. Sounds like you did your homework and did the best you can, regardless. It's not exactly an *expensive* car, but I understandably wouldn't be happy if something blew up shortly after buying it. I just hope that the Subaru forums are drastically over-playing the common issues, which is something common you see in every forum. If you went by what Jeep forums said, you'd believe the 4.0 couldn't be kept cool and would explode if you didn't replace the OPDA with a revision aftermarket unit. But after personally owning a poo poo-load of Jeeps, driving a collective million miles between them, and taking into consideration everyone else I know that owns one, none of those have ever been an issue that has even cropped up, and I live in loving NV. It gets plenty drat hot here. If you go by the Subaru forums, the 2.5T is a ticking time bomb if you don't religiously change the oil every 3750 miles with full synthetic, and remove the little banjo bolt oil filter before the turbo. Which sounds like a spectacularly stupid idea--if your turbo dies because the filter clogged and starved it of oil, then it's just going to die because you're allowing the crud to feed into the bearings. They make it sound like the cars have a 100% failure rate, but you could fool me considering how many are floating around on craigslist with high mileage, and still going for decent money. Same with the head-gaskets for the non-turbo 2.5; going by forums, it's 100% chance of failure every 80k miles, but the sheer number of the cars still on the road with 350k miles tells me otherwise.
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May 1, 2018 15:30
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So my 2013 Honda Accord got totalled by a distracted soccer mom running a red light and hitting me right on the front passenger tire. I'm looking for a commuter vehicle (I'm in south Texas). 16 miles each way to work, with 3-4x per month 250 mile roundtrips. Average 16-18k miles a year. Budget is $25-30k. The main problem is that I'm 6'5" and just barely fit in the Accord. Every sedan I've test driven either has my head brushing the roof (especially if the car has a sunroof), or my knees in the dash, even with the seat as far back and as low as possible. I'd rather not extend my budget to get a truck or an SUV I can fit in since mileage sucks and ride comfort goes way down. Any suggestions?
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May 1, 2018 18:43
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^^^^^ I'm 6'4" and drive a mazda 2. You're just going to need to test fit everything, because actual car size has nothing to do with whether it will fit big people. The banjo bolt removal is a subaru tsb (maybe even quasi-recall), so I wouldn't call it that dumb. If you follow thr new OCI, you shouldn't need it. My buddy had a line on a 280k obxt (like 2 grand). It was on engine 3 with 30k mi, and had like 50k on the new 5 speed. I think the turbo was original though. nm fucked around with this message at 18:53 on May 1, 2018 |
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May 1, 2018 18:48
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saintonan posted:So my 2013 Honda Accord got totalled by a distracted soccer mom running a red light and hitting me right on the front passenger tire. I'm looking for a commuter vehicle (I'm in south Texas). 16 miles each way to work, with 3-4x per month 250 mile roundtrips. Average 16-18k miles a year. Budget is $25-30k. The main problem is that I'm 6'5" and just barely fit in the Accord. Every sedan I've test driven either has my head brushing the roof (especially if the car has a sunroof), or my knees in the dash, even with the seat as far back and as low as possible. I'd rather not extend my budget to get a truck or an SUV I can fit in since mileage sucks and ride comfort goes way down. Any suggestions? There isn't much of a mileage penalty these days with the smaller/mid size CUV's out there. Your budget allows for plenty of choices, especially if you consider lightly used. If you want a sedan, cool, no problem personal preference and all that, but newer CUV's these days can get pretty decent mileage and most are car based and quite comfortable. A CR-V is listed at 28/34 not far off the 30/38 of an Accord. CUV's have come a long way, and you're eliminating a lot of vehicles you may actually like right off the bat. That or just embrace your inner Texan and buy an F-150.
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May 1, 2018 20:37
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skipdogg posted:There isn't much of a mileage penalty these days with the smaller/mid size CUV's out there. Your budget allows for plenty of choices, especially if you consider lightly used. FWIW, when I wrote SUV I was thinking Tahoe/Suburban/Excursion land yacht types. I assumed that crossovers had cabins like sedans, but I'll try to check a few of those out to see if they have any more room than sedans do.
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May 1, 2018 22:14
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Crossover cabins tend to be taller but as many have said, you are just going to have to try on a lot of cars. Carmax is good for this - you can just sit in a bunch of random poo poo and drive it, then search elsewhere.
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May 2, 2018 01:43
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Motronic posted:The Ford 300 6 was available in a few pickups. Lots of those trucks are basically still going, since that was an industrial motor. There are tons of generators and airport towing vehicles still running on those things. (Fords 300 6 was developed over the course of what, 40 years?) I have been thinking pretty hard recently about purchasing a early 1990s to final year (1997) Ford F-150 manual tranny, 4x4, with the Inline 6...
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May 2, 2018 04:02
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Inline sixes are proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.
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May 2, 2018 05:27
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My current car is on death's door, and I need to get a new one fairly soon. Unfortunately, I know pretty much nothing about cars, or what to look for in a car. My last car was $3200 and cost a total of around $6,000 over seven years; I'm going to need to get rid of this, and have no idea where to start with it, either - it's a piece of garbage that needs a ton of work and can't imagine anyone wanting to buy it. I have around $4,000 in my savings, and can potentially spare $100-200 on a loan per month; I definitely can't afford a new car. All I really care about are gas mileage, reliability, and that it doesn't look hideously ugly. I don't really know if I should be trying for another $3-4,000 vehicle or if I should look in the $4-8,000 range; is there financial sense in buying a more expensive vehicle in the long run? I just really have no idea where to start - looking on craigslist, I don't know what to be aware of or any warning signs, or what's a good deal and what isn't. I don't know if I should try a dealership, or what to do at one, etc. I have a moderate commute each week (about 400 miles in two weeks on average), but I like to drive home to Wisconsin or to Florida (2,000 and 1,000 mile round trips) when I can. I'm just completely clueless and don't really have anyone around that could help me; can someone help me find where/how to get started?
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May 2, 2018 17:37
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OneTwentySix posted:
Test drive a Prius to see if driving one makes you wanna yank the steering wheel and slam into a bridge pylon or not. If you are fine with the uh driving experience, it sounds like it would be a good fit for you. I had my eye on them until I actually drove one for more than 30 minutes. Regardless of their reliability and fuel efficiency, I couldn't see myself driving 8 hours in one. A lot of people clearly are fine with it though. Edit: ugh the only car that I've test driven so far that really floats my boat is the Mazda3. Trying to find a not beat to poo poo hatch with the skyactiv engine and under $12k has proven hard as hell around me. Casu Marzu fucked around with this message at 18:05 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 18:02
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Sometime in the future I'd like to buy a 3rd generation GM pickup, but I'm not interested in paying new truck prices for a complete restoration. At the same time, I don't want to bring a trailer because apartment living makes major restoration work nearly impossible. I would like something that runs decently, has 4-wheel drive, and wouldn't take much work to turn into a general purpose off-roader/load hauler/weekend toy. Any suggestions on what to look for when buying? I've seen plenty of ratted out squarebodies on Craigslist (like this: https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/cto/d/chevy-k20/6550349850.html) and want to avoid the less obvious problem trucks without paying $40k for this: https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ctd/d/1971-kx4-better-than-new/6574623781.html (yes, I realize that's a 2nd generation). I'd like to pay under $5k for something that runs reliably but isn't spotless. K5s are probably out, too expensive, K10s and 20s are probably what I"m looking for. Would be hilarous to have a big 3+3 K30 though. I'd even consider old squarebody Suburbans.
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May 2, 2018 18:13
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Senor P. posted:I have been thinking pretty hard recently about purchasing a early 1990s to final year (1997) Ford F-150 manual tranny, 4x4, with the Inline 6... The new F150 body style started in '96 IIRC. I know for a fact my 97 was. I think you need an OBS to get the 300-6.
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May 2, 2018 21:37
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