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It's constant at roughly that rpm interval regardless of speed.
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May 2, 2018 11:56
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Collateral Damage posted:It's constant at roughly that rpm interval regardless of speed. Is it likely that it's the headlight, gauge cluster or body work?
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May 2, 2018 12:14
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I tried putting my hand against the headlight and pieces of bodywork that I can safely reach while riding and it didn't help. I'll check the bottom part of the bodywork later today. It's a Ninja 650 by the way.
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May 2, 2018 12:18
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Collateral Damage posted:It's constant at roughly that rpm interval regardless of speed. Sure, but what about braking vs accelerating? Both of those will load/unload suspension differently and it’s an easy way to figure out if it’s on a piece that connects to the forks or if it’s just something on the body that’s resonating with that frequency. Sounds like the latter though. Did you go through and make sure all the bolts are there and tight? E: lotta stuff out there about similar issues. http://www.kawiforums.com/ninja-650r-er6/195518-vibration-around-4000rpm.html#/topics/195518?page=2 builds character fucked around with this message at 13:21 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 13:12
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Finally found a used Sargent seat for the SV650 right when I was about to buy new. Got the seat and it is in great shape but... Do you have any tank grips on your bike? May help, though you may not always want to be squeezing your legs against the tank to stop sliding.
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May 2, 2018 17:30
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Collateral Damage posted:I have an annoying rattling noise coming from the front end when riding between 4.5 and 5k rpm, any tips of how to find out what's loose? It doesn't show up if I'm just revving the engine on a stand. When this happened to my bike (about that same RPM range, also not noticeable on the stand) it turned out to be the speedometer cable rattling against the front fender. It didn't happen on the stand because the suspension had to be loaded just enough to get the cable into the right place. Super dumb but yeah
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May 2, 2018 19:25
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Sagebrush posted:When this happened to my bike (about that same RPM range, also not noticeable on the stand) it turned out to be the speedometer cable rattling against the front fender. It didn't happen on the stand because the suspension had to be loaded just enough to get the cable into the right place. Super dumb but yeah same sound here and it was a cable from the instrument cluster. It was an easy fix to zip tie it to a cable that wasnt rattling
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May 2, 2018 19:57
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Finally found a used Sargent seat for the SV650 I actually just got one for my sv too. It definitely is taller but I'm not sliding around too much, just sitting back a little farther away from the tank. Mine seems more comfortable than stock but I'm not as locked in. Like the other guy said, I have some tank grips that I think will help. Does yours seem heavily used? Maybe it's broken in weirdly
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May 3, 2018 02:30
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I recently got a Shad comfort seat for my Fz6n, and it's very nice. As in so nice you don't notice it. It's just a seat. On the stock I'd get sore/stiff on the inside of my thighs after 150 miles, on this it's no issue.
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May 3, 2018 08:16
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My SV has stomp grips. I wouldn’t be able to ride without them, haha. Since it’s already used I’m gonna put some more time on it before doing anything drastic.
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May 3, 2018 16:29
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Question for anyone who has a GoPro - on the android software, it used to be easy to extract a 15, 30, or 60 second clip with the trim button. Now all I can see is a thing that makes you choose your start and end time, but it doesn't start playing right where you select the start time so it ends up being a huge pain in the rear end to pull out clips. I'm assuming there was some update to the software and the feature got changed? Anyone else notice this?
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May 3, 2018 17:33
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so i bought one of these: http://www.srtoffroad.com/node/14 to assist with loading the bike on the rack hauler, but this one is too big for a DRZ, not enough clearance between the bottom triple clamp and the wheel. anyone know of one more suited for dual sports (or better yet, specifically a DRZ400 with S wheels)?
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May 3, 2018 18:41
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I'm blowing my main fuse, even with the bike off. The last thing I did before it happened was hook up some heated gear to the battery correctly. After hooking the gear up, I rode issue free for about 10 minutes and it happened. The problem persists with all accessories removed and my aftermarket switched relay removed from the system. I have a multimeter. Where do I start? CDI? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 04:04 on May 4, 2018 |
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May 4, 2018 03:12
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Sounds like you have a short. Did you tap into the wiring harness anywhere when you were hooking up your accessories? I'd check along the bike's wiring harness to see if it's rubbed through somewhere or if there is an exposed lead or pin from a connector that's popped loose and is shorting to the frame
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May 4, 2018 04:28
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Jazzzzz posted:Sounds like you have a short. Did you tap into the wiring harness anywhere when you were hooking up your accessories? I'd check along the bike's wiring harness to see if it's rubbed through somewhere or if there is an exposed lead or pin from a connector that's popped loose and is shorting to the frame The relay is tapped into switched power in a single place, but its isolated from the frame. I disconnected that as well, still happening. When I unplug the ignition and CDI, I get 12 V across the main fuse terminals. When I unplug the R/R, I get 0.01 V. Did I find the problem? Or is it possible I just removed a link in the power supply chain? I now have resistances across the 4 posts on the r/r and am trying to find what the correct values should be. There's some major variation. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 05:23 on May 4, 2018 |
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May 4, 2018 04:42
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Finally found a used Sargent seat for the SV650 right when I was about to buy new. Got the seat and it is in great shape but... I had a corbin for my SV650N - it was very comfortable. I think that saddle style seat works best with upright UJM style riding positions. I had a Sargent on a VFR800 - it was only OK. Try a bead rider / bead seat they're good and not model specific. Wear bike shorts or at least some sorta supportive underwear. Actively shift around on the seat, stand up often. Take breaks. For longer riding, I like to stop and get fuel at 100-120 miles, even if I've got more range. That seems like a sweet spot for me. Razzled posted:so i bought one of these: http://www.srtoffroad.com/node/14 Is the issue that the bike is rocking back and forth and hitting your rear window? You could try cranking down the outside tie down more to sorta make the bike lopsided. You could get those little pressure relief valves to let the air out. You could also get some sorta foam/jury rigging setup to pad the bar.
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May 4, 2018 06:27
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I have a question about bar vibration. Situation: DRZ400SM, have had it for ~3 years with no issues, stock bars and stock bar ends. Decided to get a set of Zeta hand guards. As soon as I took off the left bar end and fitted the hand guard I started getting really bad vibration through the left side of the bars only. Took the bar end weight off from the right side, no increase in vibration to that side. Take the hand guard off the left side and still get really bad vibes (no guard, no bar weight). Put the bar weight back on the left and the problem goes away. I really want to use the hand guards, but the vibration is bad enough to leave my hand hurting for hours after riding (and that's only a 20 min commute). Does anyone have any suggestions why one side of the bar would be affected more than the other, and what I can do about it? I've read all the stuff about packing out the bars with shot, bar snakes, etc, and haven't yet embarked on any of those (yet). Does anyone have any experience with this, suggestions on what works (I've read everything from expanding foam to lead shot to special fittings) and what doesn't?
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May 4, 2018 22:00
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Well, for one, the right side of the bar has more stuff on it, like the brake master, reservior, and throttle tube. That's gonna dampen things a lot. How tight are you gripping? I can't believe your bike has more vibes than my DR650, and I barely notice them on mine. Maybe put the zetas on, and zip tie the bar weight or some other weight to the left side, to see if that helps things? Then go from there.
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May 4, 2018 22:53
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Redvenom posted:I have a question about bar vibration. I packed my bars with sand and it absolutely works. HenryJLittlefinger posted:Since the new bars are longer than stock, I expected vibration to be worse, at least in amplitude. They're also not tapped for weights, which means my options for universal bar end weights that are heavy enough are pretty limited and expensive. Also don't want to make them any wider than I have to. So I decided to make my own bar snake. Turns out a standard road bike tube fits perfectly inside a 7/8" bar. I ziptied off one end, snaked a wire through, and dragged the whole thing through the bar. Then I got a funnel and filled it with sand and packed it all in and ziptied it off on the other end. They're now 1150 g, compared to ~450 g empty and the stock bars were 747 g. Hopefully it works.
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May 4, 2018 23:06
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:The relay is tapped into switched power in a single place, but its isolated from the frame. I disconnected that as well, still happening. I did a diode test on my R/R and found voltage on both forward and reverse bias, which I take to mean it's hosed. So now I assume that attempting to run heated gear on my bike, which presumably doesn't put out enough power, just cooked the internals of the R/R. Should I check the stator for damage? Would the solution be to try to source a stator with higher output?
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May 5, 2018 05:38
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I may be way off base, but I'd think if your heated gear was hooked straight to the battery (via a relay) and your stator couldn't keep up with the draw, your battery would just run down. It shouldn't smoke your R/R. Dying R/Rs usually manifest in the battery not charging properly (either not enough juice going in, or too much and it cooks the battery), not main fuses blowing. What instructions did you follow for your diode test? Depending on how you connect your multimeter leads to the R/R you might think you see current passing through it in both directions (https://www.denniskirk.com/learn/how-to-diagnose-motorcycle). I still think you have a short somewhere. Either way looking at the stator can't hurt. Jazzzzz fucked around with this message at 09:40 on May 5, 2018 |
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May 5, 2018 06:45
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Tried to start my bike to ride to work the other day. Turned key, gauges cycled like normal, but when I hit the start switch everything died. Toggling key no longer turns my dash or anything else on, battery is also fully charged. Any ideas where to start looking for problems?
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May 5, 2018 08:57
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Roguestick posted:Tried to start my bike to ride to work the other day. Turned key, gauges cycled like normal, but when I hit the start switch everything died. Toggling key no longer turns my dash or anything else on, battery is also fully charged. Any ideas where to start looking for problems? Most likely, battery is bad. Even though its voltage reads high, as soon as you put a load on it, the voltage drops too far to spin the starter. You need a new battery. Optionally, you can swear that from now on you will treat your battery better and then never fulfill that promise, like I always did when my battery died. Although, I did get the same symptoms when my key hole was dirty. You can tell if keying on/off gets erratic results. But most likely it's the battery.
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May 5, 2018 09:31
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Dumb question: did you check the ignition fuse yet?
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May 5, 2018 09:47
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I agree on the battery. A bad/discharged battery will power accessories, but as soon as the starter demands its much more taxing amps, the battery won't be up to it.
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May 5, 2018 13:23
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:I did a diode test on my R/R and found voltage on both forward and reverse bias, which I take to mean it's hosed. You have successfully diagnosed one bad component. Replace this component and then start your troubleshooting from scratch. This is how you fix problems. Please don't throw parts at something before you know they're bad. Too much draw on an R/R can burn it out. Remember, 100% of the current coming out of the stator has to go through the R/R. If you're trying to draw more current than the R/R is designed for, then it will burn out. There should be some kind of fuse protecting the R/R in this case, but most bikes leave that one main fuse out. In this case, the R/R is the fuse for the stator. It will burn before the stator does. Putting a bigger stator in now means you'll smoke your replacement R/R faster. When you get your new R/R, see what its max current is, and fuse it. Then you'll be replacing fuses and actually finding faults instead of generating faults and replacing parts. edit: Note that your shorted R/R has also almost certainly toasted your battery. Certainly through over-deep discharge, but possibly from overvoltage charging, too. I concur with the "replace the battery" diagnosis. babyeatingpsychopath fucked around with this message at 14:02 on May 5, 2018 |
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May 5, 2018 14:00
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Jazzzzz posted:I may be way off base, but I'd think if your heated gear was hooked straight to the battery (via a relay) and your stator couldn't keep up with the draw, your battery would just run down. It shouldn't smoke your R/R. I used this tutorial: https://youtu.be/-2jWIkhy1fo The body of the R/R is the ground on mine, but that's the only difference I think. Doing both positive and negative, reverse and forward bias (4 tests total) got me identical results, i.e., current in all directions. I will check the stator too. This is a good opportunity to learn new stuff. Also, the gear is not on a relay. All the info I could find said hook it directly to the battery. It has its own set of switches on a little controller which I assumed is doing the job of a relay on the connection to the bike. babyeatingpsychopath posted:You have successfully diagnosed one bad component. Replace this component and then start your troubleshooting from scratch. I think the battery is fine. The replace the battery advice was for Roguestick. It's been showing 12.8 V since the day I blew the fuse and presumably R/R. There was maybe 10 minutes or less between when I turned the gear on and it blew, so I don't think I was running with a bad one for long enough to overcharge the battery. I have had that happen before, and it took months of running a bad R/R to kill the battery. Anyhow, I do plan on looking through the system and not just throwing parts at it. How do you suggest fusing the new R/R? Inline fuse on the power supply to it? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 15:37 on May 5, 2018 |
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May 5, 2018 15:29
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Ola posted:Most likely, battery is bad. Even though its voltage reads high, as soon as you put a load on it, the voltage drops too far to spin the starter. Yeah, i just replaced my stator/rr a month ago, so my battery got drained a couple of times when my stator went. Hooked it up to my charger and was able to get it to start this morning, couldn't do it when I got home from work last night since my wife was asleep. Was worried my new stator went out already, but was still reading 14.2 when I got it to start.
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May 5, 2018 17:41
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I remember there being talk about aftermarket headlight bulbs and stuff here a few months back, anyone remember what came of that? My stock bulb blew sometime today so I thought I'd see what the options for an upgrade are.
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May 5, 2018 20:21
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There is a discussion this in the other thread right now but basically: https://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/7000-Lumen-H4-LED-Headlight-Bulb_p_169.html It's in stock here https://www.ebay.com/itm/CYCLOPS-70...ikAAOSwGzhaMa1g
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May 5, 2018 20:51
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Any good info on fork seal replacement out there?
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May 6, 2018 00:03
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What bike? Ranges from super easy to super cunty depending on the fork. At minimum you'll need a level setting tool ($20 off Ali Express, there is no meaningful difference between a cheap poo poo one and a motion pro) and a seal driver; it's pretty much impossible to avoid loving up the fork if you haven't got the latter.
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May 6, 2018 01:51
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KTM 990 SMT. I’ve never done this before so I’m sorta stressing about it.
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May 6, 2018 04:15
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Get OEM seals, that's my advice from experience.
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May 6, 2018 05:08
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Keket posted:I remember there being talk about aftermarket headlight bulbs and stuff here a few months back, anyone remember what came of that? My stock bulb blew sometime today so I thought I'd see what the options for an upgrade are. yeah you buy the one with the most LEDs and a similar light projection to the bulb its replacing. 2 sides of leds isnt enough 3-5 is. What bike? I have bought various chinese LEDs and they are still going strong. You just need to get the one with adequate cooling. Passive fins are not enough. You can get a unit with the same output as the cyclops for a 1/3rd the price that will be made with the same components and cheap packaging with no warranty. If that sounds good to you I can recommend some.
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May 6, 2018 06:48
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Also, the gear is not on a relay. All the info I could find said hook it directly to the battery. It has its own set of switches on a little controller which I assumed is doing the job of a relay on the connection to the bike. You absolutely should put it on a relay, triggered off the rear light or some other convenient location, so that the heated gear is only running with the key in. Otherwise you *will* forget to turn it off and it *will* obliterate your battery.
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May 6, 2018 07:18
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Fauxtool posted:yeah you buy the one with the most LEDs and a similar light projection to the bulb its replacing. 2 sides of leds isnt enough 3-5 is. What bike? Honda hornet 2007 pc41, going to put in another stock bulb today either way so I can use the thing. How much of an upgrade are these overall?
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May 6, 2018 09:30
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Don't suppose any UK goons would know how much luck I'm likely to have asking the council if I can have a ground anchor drilled into the street outside my house?
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May 6, 2018 13:15
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goddamnedtwisto posted:You absolutely should put it on a relay, triggered off the rear light or some other convenient location, so that the heated gear is only running with the key in. Otherwise you *will* forget to turn it off and it *will* obliterate your battery. This is what I thought, and I even put in a distribution block on a relay last year expecting to get heated stuff. Then I read a bunch of stuff on ADVRider and I think even the Gerbing website saying it needs to be connected to the battery posts.
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May 6, 2018 14:58
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Keket posted:Honda hornet 2007 pc41, going to put in another stock bulb today either way so I can use the thing. They are a MASSIVE upgrade. My Cyclops 7k is like a pair of new car headlights in front of me. I agree with Fauxtool's comments, for the most part. These all come from china anyway. That said, beam tint matters, since it's what you are looking at all the time. Cheap bulbs use cheap tint leds. A grab bag of sorts. This is why all the bulbs have these super blue outputs. Pretty harsh, but serviceable. The Cyclops 3600 lumen is the same. Cold output, and tiny leds. Doesn't interact with reflectors well. I used to love it but now that I've seen the 7k I hate it. They Cyclops 7000 lum is wildly different, and kinda in line with what fauxtool is recommending. There is NOTHING chinese on the market that I've seen that compares. They use a fuckoff huge bulb for the low and partial high beam. This interacts very well with the reflector, and still gives you the reflector profile and cutoff you are used to. Very nice. You can have LEDs on just 2 sides if you have the right leds with the little optic dome. COB leds are not so much like this. Even more importantly, the 7k has a slightly warmer tint. Incredibly pleasing to the eye, and provides good color rendition. I think Cyclops deserves to get paid for their efforts here, since nobody else in the industry gives two fucks about doing it right. But Look. If you don't care about cold blue light, and just want to spend the absolute minimum you possibly can on your bike (like me with the DR), get this one: https://www.amazon.com/YITAMOTOR-Wh...500K+High+Power I've gotten one mismanufactured one I had to get replaced, and it's absolute chinese teir build quality, but I've been happy with it in my DR. High beam is no different from low beam, but low beam is really good. The cold blue output took me a week to get used to. I didn't want to put a ton of money into the DR, and needed a low wattage draw, so I chose this. It's good. But still, pamper yourself and try the Cyclops 7k first. You're worth it.
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May 6, 2018 19:04
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