|
Scionix posted:Can someone loving explain tires to me please. I have an ND with Bridgestone protenza s-01 tires that came with the club trim. I will have to replace them soon, they are ~190$ a tire. However, continental extreme contact sports are ~110$ a tire, but as far as I can tell perform just as well. How many miles did you get out of the stock tires?
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 19:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:01 |
|
|
I'm at the wear bars on mine, maybe 15kish? They lasted longer than I expected, and I've been very mean to them. I'm planning on replacing them with DWS06s.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 19:57
|
|
|
I'm at 6k, probably going to rotate them again soon and replace them at 9-10k. I track the car almost every Saturday though so I'm hard on the tires
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 20:07
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:OEM tires are always like that. My personal belief is that they’re priced like that to sucker the people who don’t know better and want the same tires as before. I live in Texas so I figure paying ~25 extra a tire for all season isn't super necessary E: you said pws not DWS woops. I didn't see any pws or PSS for my tire size but I could've missed them
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 20:09
|
|
|
You might have to go 10mm up. What’s the wheel size?
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 20:42
|
|
|
You can fit 225s, but it looks goofy with the 4x4 stance unless if you go the degassed Konis route for CS autox.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 20:52
|
|
|
big crush on Chad OMG posted:You might have to go 10mm up. What’s the wheel size? 17" 205/45-15
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 20:58
|
|
|
Scionix posted:Can someone loving explain tires to me please. I have an ND with Bridgestone protenza s-01 tires that came with the club trim. I will have to replace them soon, they are ~190$ a tire. However, continental extreme contact sports are ~110$ a tire, but as far as I can tell perform just as well. This is usually an unpopular opinion amongst car people, but... Just put on whatever the most reasonably priced rubber is. Avoid the dirt cheap 'budget' brands and don't get suckered into buying stupidly expensive 'premium' tyres. It's not a 2 ton Rolls or a track-focused Ferrari. I put on some £90-a-rim tyres and they're great. hosed if I know what brand they are, but it's a sub-ton car. The thing should stop on a dime based on the laws of physics alone.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 21:19
|
|
|
Theophany posted:This is usually an unpopular opinion amongst car people, but... I got Coopers for the MS6 and after rebates they came to $244/$61per shipped. Heading to Costco this week to get them installed which will run me another $40 but I have a dude who wants my old tires and is giving me $50 for them so in the end I'll be at like $59 per corner. They have pretty excellent consumer ratings to boot. If I needed tires for the Miata I'd probably go the same route.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 21:22
|
|
|
Rhyno posted:I got Coopers for the MS6 and after rebates they came to $244/$61per shipped. Heading to Costco this week to get them installed which will run me another $40 but I have a dude who wants my old tires and is giving me $50 for them so in the end I'll be at like $59 per corner. They have pretty excellent consumer ratings to boot. If I needed tires for the Miata I'd probably go the same route. Wisdom. I spent near £200 a rim on a ton and a half BMW 6er with a 4.5l V8 and 19" rims nearly twice as wide as a miata. Fair enough if you want sticky track rubber but for street duties, just put some cheap poo poo on. The car is grippy enough as it is.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 21:25
|
|
|
I feel you, but I would like something at least middle of the road as I'm tracking the car most Saturdays for an hour. I'm sure as poo poo not paying >150$ a tire tho
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 21:25
|
|
|
I found some decent tires in a junkyard once. Good treadwear, no age cracking, only one of them patched. For 50 dollars they made great street tires.
|
|
#
?
May 7, 2018 22:33
|
|
|
Yeah sorry I'd like my car to stop on the street as well even if it's wet
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 00:42
|
|
|
i'm the 10 feet at 50 mph making all of the difference in the world
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 00:50
|
|
|
That's almost 10% and could be even more at higher speeds. That' could easily the difference between rear-ending someone and stopping well short of them.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 01:34
|
|
|
Phone posted:What are you trying to do? Autocross an Na/NB? NB, 2001, bone stock. I got it as fast as I could (at my skill level) by the end of the day, but the back end just keeps trying to walk. I kept having to whoa it back.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 05:10
|
|
|
speaking of which how the gently caress does one go practice controlling oversteer i would feel like a huge chode intentionally sliding around corners and losing it 50% of the time at my track
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 05:12
|
|
|
GD_American posted:NB, 2001, bone stock. I don't know what the formula is off hand for ES cars, but I think that you should look into the Racing Beat hallow front sway bar (~$200ish) and whatever sticky TW200 tires you want and dial the alignment in. The much bigger FSB should make the car be pushy (which is faster). Scionix posted:speaking of which how the gently caress does one go practice controlling oversteer Do autocross to learn what it feels like when the car is starting to get loose so you learn having "fast hands". The track is all about slow hands, but having some autocross background can bail you out. The ideal situation though is to go rent a skidpad with a few friends for half the day and drive around in circles until you puke. mobby_6kl posted:That's almost 10% and could be even more at higher speeds. That' could easily the difference between rear-ending someone and stopping well short of them. stop tailgating people on the street
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 05:27
|
|
|
Phone posted:Do autocross to learn what it feels like when the car is starting to get loose so you learn having "fast hands". The track is all about slow hands, but having some autocross background can bail you out. The ideal situation though is to go rent a skidpad with a few friends for half the day and drive around in circles until you puke. I can usually correct myself quickly enough if I start to step out, I'm just afraid to push it as hard as possible 'cause I don't really know how to maintain a slide if I'm well and truly going sideways. Everyone talks about how compliant miatas are when they get loose but I don't want to be that guy trying to drift it around every corner lol and hey got the lsd use or lose it
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 06:56
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Yeah sorry I'd like my car to stop on the street as well even if it's wet At those differences, human reaction times, the amount of attention being paid to driving and situation specifics are way bigger factors than the rubber. Scionix posted:speaking of which how the gently caress does one go practice controlling oversteer Do you have anywhere near you with a skidpan? Aside from being tremendous fun, they're great for practicing handling dynamics and learning to control oversteer.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 09:00
|
|
|
mobby_6kl posted:Yeah sorry I'd like my car to stop on the street as well even if it's wet I'm not sure what point you're trying to make. Here's the same chart for some grand touring all seasons (left) and some less aggressive summers (right) that I randomly looked at (didn't try to cherry pick for better numbers).  Summer tires are still better for this...?
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 13:37
|
|
|
The point was supposed to be that there can be noticeable differences in performance even among good tires, let alone something random from the junkyard. I don't have tests of junkyard tires obviously but hopefully you can kind of extrapolate from there. Of course it doesn't matter if the attitude is "just don't get into accidents".
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 13:58
|
|
|
the point is that if you're relying on 100ms' worth of reaction time distance wise to make or break (or brake?) it on the road, you're not paying attention and having the stickiest tires wouldn't save you
Phone fucked around with this message at 14:54 on May 8, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 14:51
|
|
|
Uh the difference between ~180ft and ~110ft stopping distance 50-0 on wet pavement is loving significant. Even ~90ft vs ~75f is a pretty big gap, that's like two car lengths. There are more reasons that you may need to suddenly stop than chronic tailgating.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 20:53
|
|
|
Guinness posted:Uh the difference between ~180ft and ~110ft stopping distance 50-0 on wet pavement is loving significant. It is. Unfortunately posting charts in isolation that show just a handful of tyre brands and models without any other specifics is dumb as poo poo when it comes to choosing the right tyre for your particular car. Kinda like mindlessly dropping £150 a corner because "price = quality."
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 21:12
|
|
|
50 mph is 73 ft/sec, and to convert units again, 7.3 ft per 100 milliseconds are there situations where you couldn't possibly foresee a drastic change in conditions that you can recognize and react to within 200ms? no cheating with hovering your foot over the brake, perfect threshold braking, too.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 21:19
|
|
|
I think I've figured out why the rubber bits pulled out of the endlinks on the bars. I replaced all 4 endlinks and all 4 swaybar bushings. What I didn't do, is have the weight of the car on both sides at the same time, nor did I make sure the bar was centered. I've also discovered that the front endlinks go on the inside of the sway bar. I'll try to press the rubbers back into the endlinks at work and chalk this up as a learning experience. I'm also going to ditch these ebay springs and use the ones that came on the car. I found older pics and it sits level with those and not all raked. Just like when I was first learning how to build RC cars, I made a few mistakes out of ignorance.
|
|
#
?
May 8, 2018 22:41
|
|
|
Phone posted:50 mph is 73 ft/sec, and to convert units again, 7.3 ft per 100 milliseconds I look at it the opposite way: is there any situation where I wouldn't like to have another 200ms to avoid a crash?
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 00:12
|
|
|
It's a 900 dollar daily driver. I know people race them and I love seeing photos of race builds, I even have a VVT turbo motor that I never put in because the fuel economy will get worse. Spending almost half the price on a daily driver on tires doesn't make sense for me. I had a Lotus Esprit I dumped money into but then I noticed it wasn't really bringing me fun, I like owning cheap common cars I can repair from Rockauto and junkyards. The tires they replaced were hilariously bad, I accidentally burned out an entire intersection in front of a police officer and it scared me so much that I found the new to me tires from a Ford Focus in a junkyard. The old ones weren't even at the wear bars or age cracking, just getting too old. They're 5 profile more than the stock tires, but don't rub and basically feel fine, I can feel they're heavier, but for the price the extra weight is easy to ignore. This is the same car I JB welded a soda can onto the transmission to stop up a leak. It's not supposed to be nice, just functional.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 00:32
|
|
|
Who gives a poo poo about reaction time? Yes reacting faster is obviously better but the question is how long does your car keep going AFTER reacting. I had a kid jump out in front of my car and came to a stop pretty much with my bumper touching his leg. A meter more stopping distance might have meant a dead kid. I'm not arguing that you need super expensive premium tires, but junkyard tires? Jesus, those four tiny patches of rubber are the only thing keeping you and other people from possibly dying. Are there no tire tests being done in the US? Look up some tests, figure out which tires best fit your budget and grip desire and buy those. Its not that hard. Also, don't do that "Well i always bought Goodyear tires, they make good tires!" bullshit. They might make great tires one year and then update them next year and totally gently caress them up.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 09:09
|
|
|
Shai-Hulud posted:I had a kid jump out in front of my car and came to a stop pretty much with my bumper touching his leg. A meter more stopping distance might have meant a dead kid. Whilst I agree with what you're saying, the bolded part is a bit Helen Lovejoy.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 09:16
|
|
|
Fair enough. I wasn't going for the whole "You might kill a whole group of school children if you don't buy new tires every year!" angle. Its just something that actually happened to me and i could have hosed up that kid really badly if the car hadn't stopped in time. Made me rethink a lot of things about driving in general.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 09:57
|
|
|
The greater point is that tires should not be bought based simply on price. There are some really good cheap tires, and also some really terrible ones. Conversely, expensive tires are not necessarily better. Your tires are all that is keeping your car on the road. They're worth spending money on for better performance. Get the best ones you can afford, rather than the cheapest available.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 14:54
|
|
|
Goddamnit, treasure coast cancelled my order for a replacement rack. Power steering on NA miatas has to be the most leaky, aggravating part about the whole car. I'm so sick of chasing leaks down with this poo poo. If I could be assured I won't get kicked out of ES, I'll convert the fucker to manual this weekend. Trying to get this little bastard to stop turning my garage into an EPA superfund site has me wanting to just throw it up on craigslist for parts.
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 17:59
|
|
|
BloodBag posted:Goddamnit, treasure coast cancelled my order for a replacement rack. Power steering on NA miatas has to be the most leaky, aggravating part about the whole car. I'm so sick of chasing leaks down with this poo poo. If I could be assured I won't get kicked out of ES, I'll convert the fucker to manual this weekend. Trying to get this little bastard to stop turning my garage into an EPA superfund site has me wanting to just throw it up on craigslist for parts. Buy one from rack doctor? Used them for one on my truck, they were pretty fast. Or just depower yours with the many guides online. https://shop.rackdoctor.net/1990-1995-Mazda-Miata-Power-Rack-and-Pinion-16995-750.htm https://shop.rackdoctor.net/1996-1997-Mazda-Miata-Power-Rack-and-Pinion-14995-25012.htm
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 19:13
|
|
|
what have I done
|
|
#
?
May 9, 2018 20:18
|
|
|
Phone posted:I don't know what the formula is off hand for ES cars, but I think that you should look into the Racing Beat hallow front sway bar (~$200ish) and whatever sticky TW200 tires you want and dial the alignment in. The much bigger FSB should make the car be pushy (which is faster). Appreciate the tip. It looks like they push their own end links and mounting flange with it (upselling- the curse of our age). I've got a dinky little Harbor Freight wire welder, but I know enough about my welding that I'd rather pay someone to do it  Looks like (reading the SCCA rule book) you can mess with one sway bar, but not both. So that'd keep it in Street. I just don't know why they sell the flanges as 2 ears you have to fit and weld. Add a bottom plate, make the whole loving thing one integral piece that anyone can weld, and you don't have to worry about aligning it and fitting as you tack it. (Maybe it'd mess with the geometry?) http://www.racingbeat.com/Miata-1990-2005/Suspension-Components/54111.html
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2018 01:20
|
|
|
Lol i just drunk ordered $550 worth of miata parts.
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2018 03:16
|
|
|
https://mobile.craigslist.org/pts/d/koni-shocks-for-miata/6580881663.html Says he bought these Konis for a 1994; what kind of difference is there for NA/NB shock mounts?
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2018 17:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 26, 2024 21:01 |
|
|
NB shock mounts will go on an NA and are better for some reason. It's been too long for me to remember why. 
|
|
#
?
May 13, 2018 22:50
|
|