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The Moon Monster posted:Don't forget they're like $4.50 for 12 ml rather than $3.00 for 17 ml like most other brands. That's what really puts me off of them. 12ml of my old GW paints have lasted me way longer than 17ml of a lot of other stuff. Thicker out of the bottle, better coverage.
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May 16, 2018 13:41
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Eifert Posting posted:I love valejo air gunmetal and chrome, but the bright Brass comes out like the world's weakest wash. Ugh, that'll be why my attempt as using is last night was so unsuccessful.
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May 16, 2018 14:32
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glitchkrieg posted:Ugh, that'll be why my attempt as using is last night was so unsuccessful. VMA Bright Brass sucks. VGA Bright Bronze is great, albeit a completely different color.
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May 16, 2018 15:18
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dexefiend posted:
It just occurred to me that the Sister Superior has truck nuts.
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May 16, 2018 15:21
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dexefiend posted:VMA Bright Brass sucks. VGA Bright Bronze is great, albeit a completely different color. Yeah I think I'm going to suck it up and use a gold/bronze for my highlight coat and redo it this evening.
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May 16, 2018 15:53
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It looks amazing if you can get it even, though.
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May 16, 2018 19:01
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The shipping was more than I expected, but Dark Star makes some of the best metallics I've used: http://www.darkstarmini.co.uk/darkstar-molten-metals.html
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May 17, 2018 00:55
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gently caress. Got into a painting conversation tonight with some people and now I really want to do Neon 80's Punk Orks. Any good colors to look out for for Neon Pinks/Blues/Purples?
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May 17, 2018 04:04
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S.J. posted:gently caress. Got into a painting conversation tonight with some people and now I really want to do Neon 80's Punk Orks. Any good colors to look out for for Neon Pinks/Blues/Purples? I'm planning on mixing some of the reaper bones neons (dungeon slime, monster maw, canary yellow http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/bones) with fw artist inks for coverage when I do my neon Escher ladies.
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May 17, 2018 04:08
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Yo my dudes. Is there any way to fix old green stuff? I've got a stick that's probably over 10 years old at this point. The yellow portion is just fine and is still plenty malleable, but the blue portion seems to have dried out and become rock hard. When I mix the two together I end up with a tacky yellow ribbon filled with rock hard blue shards but no actual greenstuff. Trying to fill some gaps in Forgeworld pieces and the liquid greenstuff I bought for the job was pretty much a waste of $5.
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May 17, 2018 04:39
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Das_Ubermike posted:Yo my dudes. Is there any way to fix old green stuff? I've got a stick that's probably over 10 years old at this point. The yellow portion is just fine and is still plenty malleable, but the blue portion seems to have dried out and become rock hard. When I mix the two together I end up with a tacky yellow ribbon filled with rock hard blue shards but no actual greenstuff. Trying to fill some gaps in Forgeworld pieces and the liquid greenstuff I bought for the job was pretty much a waste of $5. Yes, there's a simple and foolproof way to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ
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May 17, 2018 04:41
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Booley posted:Yes, there's a simple and foolproof way to fix it: https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002MB61RQ Thanks you goddamn scrotum. Anyone have any real suggestions?
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May 17, 2018 04:47
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Seriously, just throw it out and get some new stuff. And if you want a liquid putty, get Mr. Dissolved Putty (but be aware it's for very small gaps).
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May 17, 2018 04:51
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Das_Ubermike posted:Thanks you goddamn scrotum. You can't save it. It's not savable. The hardener part of the resin/hardener combo has done what it's designed to do and hardened.
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May 17, 2018 04:52
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Finished Malifaux Ten Thunder's Ototo   
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May 17, 2018 05:38
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Philthy posted:Finished Malifaux Ten Thunder's Ototo This is all sorts of awesome!
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May 17, 2018 05:42
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Philthy posted:Finished Malifaux Ten Thunder's Ototo This is fantastic! You really brought the motionof the model to life.
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May 17, 2018 05:54
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Victory Lap!Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Inceptor Progress: Done. Total Time: 28:03 I really need a better camera. My phone camera doesn't allow for most of the modern manual features, and the banding is so bad thanks to the LED lighting that I own that I can't take any pictures without them being overexposed to compensate.
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May 17, 2018 05:56
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Wow, all that in just over 28 minutes! ... ... Oh.
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May 17, 2018 06:03
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Victory Lap! I love the way the bone looks on that big-rear end diving helmet on the dude in the center. After all the scale75 chat yesterday I ended up ordering a couple of sets off amazon. Looking forward to messing with them. I'm hoping the African and Indian shadows will help get some good fleshtones, it's hard to find stuff not aimed at caucasian skin and I want more variety than that.
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May 17, 2018 14:26
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:I love the way the bone looks on that big-rear end diving helmet on the dude in the center. Yeah that turned out to be a really fun way to differentiate the Sergeant.
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May 17, 2018 16:02
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Yeah that turned out to be a really fun way to differentiate the Sergeant. It looks cool but after thinking about it for a second picturing a helmetted head inside the helmet I had a giggle for a minute.
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May 17, 2018 16:06
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:After all the scale75 chat yesterday I ended up ordering a couple of sets off amazon. Looking forward to messing with them. I'm hoping the African and Indian shadows will help get some good fleshtones, it's hard to find stuff not aimed at caucasian skin and I want more variety than that.
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May 17, 2018 16:46
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:I love the way the bone looks on that big-rear end diving helmet on the dude in the center. If you bought their fleshtone set, you're in for a treat. Even just using them in triads gives you some really rich skin tones. My dudes are actually decently diverse nowadays. If you got your hands on the black and white set, lemme know how you like it. I've been thinking about grabbing it to paint some vehicles and armor, and it'd be nice if I didn't have to spend a million years highlighting black.
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May 17, 2018 16:48
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General Olloth posted:It looks cool but after thinking about it for a second picturing a helmetted head inside the helmet I had a giggle for a minute. Now just imagine how he feels about those scrubs who run around with exposed heads.
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May 17, 2018 16:51
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Now just imagine how he feels about those scrubs who run around with exposed heads. This is honestly the best retort. 
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May 17, 2018 17:30
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Electric Hobo posted:I posted these guys a while ago. All the skin is made with the Scale75 flesh set + Army Painter soft tone. You can get a lot of variety out of it. Army painter soft tone is my go to for when I feel like I've irredeemably hosed up some skin. A few coats coats can turn anyone into a pleasantly brown skinned person.
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May 18, 2018 01:21
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I'm going to a 1500 point tournament on Sunday. Just finished painting the entire army. I'm ecstatic to be able to stop painting scouts and go back to painting fun and interesting things (like another contemptor and leviathan). I do eventually want to do a third scout squad so I can run an entire battalion of them, but I won't be painting it until I make a list that requires it.     
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May 18, 2018 02:55
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Very nice, I love how you did the scouts.
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May 18, 2018 03:12
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So one of my (metal) models arrived with a thin part really badly bent (almost 90 degrees, it's kind of impressive); are there any precautions I should take when bending it back into position? What about reinforcement? I mostly just don't want to break my first model by accident and I don't know much about pewter's resistance to bending. The model is Reaper's Britta, War Maiden, if that's a factor.
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May 18, 2018 14:04
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Like Clockwork posted:So one of my (metal) models arrived with a thin part really badly bent (almost 90 degrees, it's kind of impressive); are there any precautions I should take when bending it back into position? What about reinforcement? I mostly just don't want to break my first model by accident and I don't know much about pewter's resistance to bending. Just be careful - try to grasp the surrounding area with your fingers when you bend it back. As you move the part back into position, you don't want to put all of the pressure on that one particular point. Metal is pretty resilient, to an extent, so you should be alright - just don't bend it back and forth.
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May 18, 2018 14:22
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Like Clockwork posted:So one of my (metal) models arrived with a thin part really badly bent (almost 90 degrees, it's kind of impressive); are there any precautions I should take when bending it back into position? What about reinforcement? I mostly just don't want to break my first model by accident and I don't know much about pewter's resistance to bending. Just take it slow and make sure to distribute the force a bit so you're not focusing all of the bending on a single point.
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May 18, 2018 14:41
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The Moon Monster posted:Just take it slow and make sure to distribute the force a bit so you're not focusing all of the bending on a single point. You're also gonna hear some creaking and crunching but that's normal.
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May 18, 2018 14:45
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The metal is also pretty soft, try holding your thumb and forefinger over the bend and letting your body heat warm it up so that it has some stretch before you bend it back.
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May 18, 2018 16:42
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One thing I do for really thin metal parts to reinforce them is to "paint" some superglue over it. Superglue isn't very flexible, so it helps reinforce it against minor bumps.
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May 18, 2018 17:26
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Crossposting from the 40k thread, have some Skitarii. Tried to do a 'quick' scheme with lots of drybrushing and washing since I've potentially got at least 20-30 more of the buggers to paint, but I think it might still be too complex. 
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May 19, 2018 01:54
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Those are really nice. The hazard stripes make it imo.
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May 19, 2018 02:00
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Z the IVth posted:Crossposting from the 40k thread, have some Skitarii. The hazard stripes are perfect. My only crit would be that I think the bases are too similar to the robes.
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May 19, 2018 02:00
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Booley posted:The hazard stripes are perfect. My only crit would be that I think the bases are too similar to the robes. Yeah I'm following a similar recipe that I used for the bone white on my Armiger. I did try and break it a little by adding some dust to the robes but it's not very visible from the angle of the photos. The alternative is edging all the robes but that's a whole new nightmare in of itself.
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May 19, 2018 02:06
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I loving love the admech range.
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May 19, 2018 02:13
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