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Those are some really great mech boys. I might steal some of that scheme for some Titan guard.
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May 19, 2018 05:05
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I love hazard stripes as battle heraldry. You put that stuff on objects you need to take care around due to risk of injury and death. These guys put it on themselves to announce to the enemy that they’re going to cause injury and death.
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May 19, 2018 08:18
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Badablack posted:I love hazard stripes as battle heraldry. You put that stuff on objects you need to take care around due to risk of injury and death. These guys put it on themselves to announce to the enemy that they’re going to cause injury and death. This is very true. One guy in WD mentioned that his Iron Warriors used hazard stripes as heraldry. How heretical my mechanicus boys are is clearly dependent on the canonicity of that material.  TTerrible posted:Those are some really great mech boys. I might steal some of that scheme for some Titan guard. I used the same scheme on an Armiger many pages back. Gives a much more grubby, dieselpunk look vs the usual brightly coloured heraldry. I posted the colour recipes for everything in this and the 40k thresd.
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May 19, 2018 12:41
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So I'm still in noob mode and I have another question. I want to do the shirt part of this in Carmine Red. Would I just need to mix in a darker brown as a base coat, do the Carmine Red as a layer, then the same dark basecoat as a wash/shade and a lighter version for highlighting the edges and details?  While waiting, I tried figuring out how to paint the skirt, and it looks like I just went and painted it kinda in the final yellow color.  Basecoat: VMC Tan Yellow Shade: wash consistency VMC Transparent Yellow Layer 1: slightly-thinner-than-basecoat consistency VMC Flat Yellow Layer 2: slightly-thinner-than-basecoat consistency Vallejo Game Color Moon Yellow tinted with VMC Off White Should I go with a much darker yellow as a basecoat? The skirt itself is kinda flat, and there's lots of detail in it, so maybe I should give it a dark wash to make it all pop a little? MJP fucked around with this message at 16:36 on May 19, 2018 |
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May 19, 2018 15:23
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Man I've been having a way easier time airbrushing recently and of course the secret was "add a few more drops of flow improver to everything"MJP posted:So I'm still in noob mode and I have another question. I want to do the shirt part of this in Carmine Red. Would I just need to mix in a darker brown as a base coat, do the Carmine Red as a layer, then the same dark basecoat as a wash/shade and a lighter version for highlighting the edges and details? 1. For simplicity I would paint it carmine, wash with a strong tone/agrax equivalent, then pick out most of the raised details with the original carmine. Then you can decide about the final highlight if you need one. 2. Be careful what shade you choose for the wash, a regular strong tone will make it look very muddy. If making the wash with paint and acrylic medium you'll want more of a mustard tone, or if you have it around seraphim sepia is good for that.
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May 20, 2018 05:55
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Cross post from 40k thread.
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May 20, 2018 06:42
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Suddenly rememberer that this thread existed so I decided to cross post from the Infinity threadNot a viking posted:I painted some mans*
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May 20, 2018 11:21
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I got a deal on Ebay for a ton of epic space marines, would I have any problem stripping them with simple green? I know the metal dreads will be fine but will the other models be fine or are there any precautions I'll have to take considering the fact they're tiny models? I bought them in hopes of them eventually being used in the new Titan game eventually, or even just for campaign maps. Worst case scenario I put my skills to the test to make an Iron Hands librarian and use the tiny Dread as his familiar 
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May 20, 2018 18:16
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Simple Green is fine for plastic or resin. If something's metal I usually just go with the nuclear option of acetone.
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May 20, 2018 18:31
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LA's totally Awesome Degreaser (the orange bottle stuff) is also a good paint stripper. Can confirm it works on plastic, metal, and resin, and since you can find it at places like Dollar Tree, it's cheap. 90%+ isopropyl alcohol works in a pinch too.
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May 20, 2018 18:37
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Don't use isopropyl alcohol on Resin.
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May 20, 2018 18:45
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E: ^^^also this, it does turn resin "rubbery" in my experience.Slimnoid posted:LA's totally Awesome Degreaser (the orange bottle stuff) is also a good paint stripper. Can confirm it works on plastic, metal, and resin, and since you can find it at places like Dollar Tree, it's cheap. Can confirm, have used both of these with no issues. Purple Power works well too. As always, wear a pair of rubber gloves when cleaning off minis that have been soaked in these various degreasers; not only do they take the layers of paint and varnish off the minis, but they will also strip the oils right off the skin of your hands, too. 
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May 20, 2018 18:47
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dexefiend posted:Don't use isopropyl alcohol on Resin. Whoops, yeah, definitely a no-go on resin. I think the alcohol leeches out the hardening agent, which is why it can end up being rubbery.
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May 20, 2018 19:04
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 I painted a sub and did my first rust and streak weathering
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May 20, 2018 20:01
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Phi230 posted:
Das good.
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May 20, 2018 20:34
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xpostTwo Beans posted:Finished my Tzeentch Dark Apostle conversion for my Lost Sons Chaos Marines.
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May 20, 2018 23:58
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^^ As someone who has been thinking hard about getting into 40k with a Thousand Sons army, that is loving amazing. Super clean and I love the bird skull especially. Did you make the base? Finished up this dude for my Garrek's Reavers warband. Just got finish up the base.    Blood for the Blood God! 
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 02:30 on May 21, 2018 |
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May 21, 2018 02:25
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Hey everyone. I just bought the first models for making my Eldar army. Now I gotta start buying the paints I need for them. I want to do Craftworld Iybraesil. I found a few tutorials and blogs online about how to paint them but they seem out of date and old. Is there anything recent, or does GW themselves keep a guide for painting each faction and telling what colors you need?
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May 21, 2018 02:49
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Mikey Purp posted:^^ As someone who has been thinking hard about getting into 40k with a Thousand Sons army, that is loving amazing. Super clean and I love the bird skull especially. Did you make the base? How did you do the blood? At some point when my army is mostly done I want to add spice to it by having my bugs tearing apart and stomping on space marine models and I will need decent blood for that.
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May 21, 2018 02:59
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Mikey Purp posted:^^ As someone who has been thinking hard about getting into 40k with a Thousand Sons army, that is loving amazing. Super clean and I love the bird skull especially. Did you make the base? Yep! Polyform Sculpy III polymer clay flattened and imprinted with the Egyptian print rolling pin from GreenStuffWorld. Once it was baked I let it cool, then I snapped it into pieces and glued them to bases for priming. Here's a pic of them when I was slathering them with Agrax Earthshade (as well as the Sorcerer in Terminator Armor I'm also working on).  quote:Blood for the Blood God! This motherfucker is siiiiick.
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May 21, 2018 03:04
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bird food bathtub posted:How did you do the blood? At some point when my army is mostly done I want to add spice to it by having my bugs tearing apart and stomping on space marine models and I will need decent blood for that. It's super easy! I used the GW technical paint "Blood for the Blood God." Painted it on to the axe head, while for the splatter effect I put a dab of paint onto an old toothbrush and then flicked the bristles at the model. Two Beans posted:Yep! Polyform Sculpy III polymer clay flattened and imprinted with the Egyptian print rolling pin from GreenStuffWorld. So cool, I had no idea such a thing existed. I might borrow this idea if/when I get my first TS models.
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May 21, 2018 03:19
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So I'm looking to get into Warmaster (read: dropped $200 on a High Elf army off ebay, should be here before the end of the month), but most of the stuff I've done when it comes to painting has been the typical 28mm or larger scale, not the 10mm Warmaster runs. I know a couple of people here tend to lean towards the smaller scales, and I was hoping to pick some brains and get some tips for the smaller scales. Also figured I'd ask if there's any site out there that does bits in the scale, because I'm not super keen on dropping another $50+ each per unit of Dragon Princes, Swordmasters of Hoeth or Phoenix Guard.
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May 21, 2018 03:28
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Aniodia posted:So I'm looking to get into Warmaster (read: dropped $200 on a High Elf army off ebay, should be here before the end of the month), but most of the stuff I've done when it comes to painting has been the typical 28mm or larger scale, not the 10mm Warmaster runs. I know a couple of people here tend to lean towards the smaller scales, and I was hoping to pick some brains and get some tips for the smaller scales. Also figured I'd ask if there's any site out there that does bits in the scale, because I'm not super keen on dropping another $50+ each per unit of Dragon Princes, Swordmasters of Hoeth or Phoenix Guard. If you're anything like me you'll probably find it's a lot easier to paint in a small scale; there's less detail, and if there's too many colours they look cluttered. You can go really crazy painting them but most of the time they look better in 3-4 colours (plus a wash).
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May 21, 2018 07:50
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jumping between way too many projects as usual  I'll be getting into X-Wing with 2.0 and i've been toying around with making a template set over the weekend. The white one is from the first attempt, kinda boring and doesn't exactly scream scum. The black and gold are much more fun and just ridiculous enough to go with. I'll probably try to paint a ship or two in a similar theme as well. 
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May 21, 2018 14:02
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so a question for the painters in this thread. I'm tackling a Dark Angels army which means robes everywhere. Currently my process is zandri dust>recess wash of seraphon sepia followed by ushabti bone>screaming skull>white scar. Here's a sample - you can see quite a stark line between colours on the robes. https://imgur.com/a/FeI2CEw My transition from brown to white is quite jarring - any tips? Also if I wanted to unfy the colours any recommendation on what colour glaze to use?
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May 21, 2018 14:34
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Does anyone have any recommendations or guides for making a display board for an army? The kind you use to haul around conventions?
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May 21, 2018 16:17
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Does anyone have any recommendations or guides for making a display board for an army? The kind you use to haul around conventions? Complicated things: figure out how big a footprint your army will need, buy a piece of MDF the same size, add some hills/ruins/whatever to match your basing, base the whole thing. Simpler: tablescapes tiles from secret weapon miniatures Even simpler: FLG sells some MDF trays with mats sized to fit them Simplest: a $3 plastic foodservices tray from amazon.
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May 21, 2018 16:22
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Looking for recommendations on a starter airbrush set. For now I plan on using it primarily for zenithal priming and some base coating. I've read that the cheap master's sets and others sold on Amazon/Ebay are decent to help a beginner learn airbrush techniques without breaking the bank, but I trust this thread's opinions more than most sources. Thoughts on the best way to go?
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May 21, 2018 16:48
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Booley posted:Complicated things: figure out how big a footprint your army will need, buy a piece of MDF the same size, add some hills/ruins/whatever to match your basing, base the whole thing. My inclination is to go for option 1. I have some background in fabrication and think I could have a lot of fun doing it. What's a typical size?
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May 21, 2018 16:57
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haakman posted:so a question for the painters in this thread. I'm tackling a Dark Angels army which means robes everywhere. Honestly, it looks like you need a midtone between Zandri Dust and Ushabti Bone. Whether you find one on the shelf or just mix it naturally, I'd recommend finding something between the two to smooth the transition. quote:Looking for recommendations on a starter airbrush set. For now I plan on using it primarily for zenithal priming and some base coating. I've read that the cheap master's sets and others sold on Amazon/Ebay are decent to help a beginner learn airbrush techniques without breaking the bank, but I trust this thread's opinions more than most sources. Thoughts on the best way to go? Yeah, I picked up one of those $80 sets with the compressor, and while it can be finicky at times to get the right paint consistency, it's drastically reduced the amount of time I need to do any sort of priming, zenithal or otherwise. The compressor's not terrible either, so in case you do want to drop the money on a better brush you don't also have to grab a new compressor while you're at it. Aniodia fucked around with this message at 17:22 on May 21, 2018 |
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May 21, 2018 17:12
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Mikey Purp posted:Thoughts on the best way to go? Badger Patriot 105.
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May 21, 2018 17:12
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darnon posted:Badger Patriot 105. Absolutely this. I own this and the Renegrade Krome, and I really love the 105 for the majority of my work. I suspect the Krome will be better for the kind of ultra detail work that I'm nowhere near ready to do.
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May 21, 2018 17:16
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OK cool, what about compressors?
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May 21, 2018 17:22
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That said the Master's brush is also good, but the design is fiddlier especially the tiny thread-in needle seat. Also the feed cutout at the bottom of the pot is more of a pain to clean with gummier paints like primers. I do like the travel stop and it's less sensitive so it can be easier for fine work. The Badger took an extra fine needle and extended trigger to help get the control where I liked it so those might be worth picking up.
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May 21, 2018 17:25
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Does anyone have any recommendations or guides for making a display board for an army? The kind you use to haul around conventions? Get a corkboard from Michaels, it'll have a lip on it already. Cover it in watered down PVA glue, then sand. Give that 24 hours to dry and then paint it like you'd paint a base for a mini. It might take two coats of spray or whatever. For mine I just used craft paint instead of GW paint for cost reasons. You can be more ambitious if you want - building in hills or terrain or just resting terrain on the thing when you assemble it for events - but a basic one is easy enough. Here's mine:  The Secret Weapon Miniatures Tablescapes boards are also neat, but even with the clips they feel a bit flimsy to carry around. It's nice being able to use them as part of my gaming table when they're not being used for display though.
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May 21, 2018 17:45
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Mikey Purp posted:OK cool, what about compressors? Anything with a tank. Most people including me start with this one: https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Airbrush-Compressor-Multipurpose-Tattoo/dp/B01M33C8MV It's cheap and you run the risk of it breaking after 6 months, but it does everything you need for miniatures work. You should also get a spray booth: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6 Those two things and the airbrush are the big pieces, otherwise you just need a few things like thinner, cleaner, flow improver etc. The OP of the thread has a great section that lists the things you need, and links a couple great video tutorials.
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May 21, 2018 18:28
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I got a cheap tankless compressor from Harbor Freight and while it works fine I wish I had gotten one with a tank.
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May 21, 2018 18:59
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Aniodia posted:So I'm looking to get into Warmaster (read: dropped $200 on a High Elf army off ebay, should be here before the end of the month), but most of the stuff I've done when it comes to painting has been the typical 28mm or larger scale, not the 10mm Warmaster runs. I know a couple of people here tend to lean towards the smaller scales, and I was hoping to pick some brains and get some tips for the smaller scales. Also figured I'd ask if there's any site out there that does bits in the scale, because I'm not super keen on dropping another $50+ each per unit of Dragon Princes, Swordmasters of Hoeth or Phoenix Guard. Like Spectralent said, smaller tends to be easier. Don't go crazy with detail (not that there is a ton) and washes will seriously take everything up a notch. My buddy does High Elves and he put decals on the shields - you may not want to go that far, but they do look amazing. Science Rocket posted:I got a deal on Ebay for a ton of epic space marines, would I have any problem stripping them with simple green? I know the metal dreads will be fine but will the other models be fine or are there any precautions I'll have to take considering the fact they're tiny models? Mikey Purp posted:Looking for recommendations on a starter airbrush set. For now I plan on using it primarily for zenithal priming and some base coating. I've read that the cheap master's sets and others sold on Amazon/Ebay are decent to help a beginner learn airbrush techniques without breaking the bank, but I trust this thread's opinions more than most sources. Thoughts on the best way to go?
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May 21, 2018 19:16
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SRM posted:Get a corkboard from Michaels, it'll have a lip on it already. Cover it in watered down PVA glue, then sand. Give that 24 hours to dry and then paint it like you'd paint a base for a mini. It might take two coats of spray or whatever. For mine I just used craft paint instead of GW paint for cost reasons. You can be more ambitious if you want - building in hills or terrain or just resting terrain on the thing when you assemble it for events - but a basic one is easy enough. Here's mine: Awesome, thanks. That's exactly the kind of starting point I'm looking for.
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May 21, 2018 21:41
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Would anyone like some bottles/agitator beads/funnels to transfer GW potted paints into dropper bottles? I bought a 50 pack and only used about 15 of them rescuing old paints, so it should be enough for a start. Yours for $10 to cover my shipping cost. Just PM me so i don't forget.
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May 21, 2018 22:41
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