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ROFLburger posted:Is there a place online where I can get a service manual for a 1998 2.5 ford ranger? Free or at a cost? Googling around brings me to a bunch of bullshit sites that don't actually have the manual. AutoZone has a Chilton-grade manual for this available in their Repair Guides section online. Just need to make a free account.
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May 22, 2018 18:14
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Autozone doesn't have one for my vehicle 
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May 22, 2018 18:43
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STR posted:And am I correct in assuming it doesn't do all that much to actually seal the windshield against the elements? It's been a loooong time since windshields were held in by rubber trim, probably everything made since the early-mid 80s is glued in place. You could try shooting some RTV in between the body and the glass, but your best bet is to have the windshield replaced entirely so the adhesive gets completely reapplied.
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May 22, 2018 18:44
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ROFLburger posted:Is there a place online where I can get a service manual for a 1998 2.5 ford ranger? Free or at a cost? Googling around brings me to a bunch of bullshit sites that don't actually have the manual. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...manual&_sacat=0 Ebay, at a cost
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May 22, 2018 20:54
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ROFLburger posted:Autozone doesn't have one for my vehicle I could have sworn they had one but I guess I'm going senile.  Aside from the GOD drat WATER PUMP most poo poo on that truck is "remove, replace" anyway.
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May 22, 2018 21:13
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Geoj posted:It's been a loooong time since windshields were held in by rubber trim, probably everything made since the early-mid 80s is glued in place. That's what I figured. The car is definitely a beater, and the windshield is in good shape (though it's definitely not the original), so I'm not really wanting to drop that kind of coin. But I'm guessing removal of most glued-in windshields usually destroys them, doesn't it? The leak is significantly less bad when that trim is in place, though, so I'd like to track it down if I can. The current piece doesn't really want to stay in, it pops out at highway speeds. The PO definitely held it down with duct tape, but I'd prefer to not quite go that ghetto unless I have no other option.
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May 23, 2018 06:16
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spankmeister posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-and-3-8-in-Drive-Torx-Bit-Socket-Set-11-Piece-HTXBS11PCSR/203559459 I ended up buying this and it worked well. (I already had my mechanic free the bolts before hand.) STR posted:One of the more common ABS issues is a wheel speed sensor failure; on GMs, that's often part of the wheel hub. Having a bad wheel speed sensor (usually) also takes out your traction control. Replaced the problem hub with a AC Delco OEM Hub  also replaced the pads and disc brake rotor  This fixed the ABS and TC lights a few seconds after moving the Yukon. Should I replace the opposite side hub as well? Googling doesn't give a clear answer.
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May 23, 2018 08:57
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I have another car with problems. This is a 1995 Toyota Corolla 4Door Base 1.6L L4 AE101 Engine Automatic A131L with ~231,000 miles on it. I got it extremely cheap from a relative who was the original owner. Just today, the car will not start but it does turn over. The AM2 30 amp pal fuse was the problem. Searching online shows this could be a problem with the distributor, ignition wires, oil dripping from valve gasket/distributor unto wiring harness, corroded 30 amp pal fuse, or the EFI Relay. Bought 3 30 amp pal fuses and first tried to just replace that fuse, which blew. Next, swapped the EFI relay with another one to rule it out, 30 amp fuse blew again. Examined my engine and it appears that there is oil leaking from my distributor or valve cover gasket. This leak is not new. I am planning on replacing the distributor, ignition wires, valve cover gasket, as well as cleaning the oil leak with my pressure washer. Is this appropriate, or is there something else I should look into first?  
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May 23, 2018 09:22
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STR posted:But I'm guessing removal of most glued-in windshields usually destroys them, doesn't it? If you're careful you can remove it. I used a high strength metal cable wrapped around two makeshift handles to gently saw away at the gasket to free a windshield from a junkyard forester. It's tedious work, and if you care about the donor vehicle you'll have to be careful not to damage the surrounding metal. Stressful too as the perimeter of the glass is longer than you think and every inch you're worried about cracking the new one. I managed to pull it off but did a tiny amount of damage to one corner on the donor glass. Still sealed fine at least.
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May 23, 2018 13:49
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Ymmv but I've had good luck going to the local auto glass place and telling them the problem if it's something vaguely within their scope. Probably 3/4 of my visits to them they've just squirted a dollop of whatever adhesive and/or sealant into the problem area at no charge because it took 30 seconds out of a slow afternoon.
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May 23, 2018 14:19
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Preoptopus posted:Calling VAG nerds! People could only guess, or at best suggest how it got hosed up which won't fix it anyway. No use wasting your time, energy or thinking power on it, you've already got enough clues it's so bad it's unsafe to drive and there's nothing of known good parts or quality fitment there. Tell them it's hosed and get it re-done somewhere properly. If you're real close and they'll work on it with you get prices on replacing everything. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:28 on May 23, 2018 |
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May 23, 2018 16:25
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The Gardenator posted:I have another car with problems. This is a 1995 Toyota Corolla 4Door Base 1.6L L4 AE101 Engine Automatic A131L with ~231,000 miles on it. If the online research you've done says an oil leak could cause the fuse to blow - how bad would pressure washing be? Oil leaking from a dizzy (generally - in other cars) is normally underneath - does not effect dizzy electronics - so going by your own diagnostics (not mine!), try using a good degreaser like crc, gentle scrubbing and hosing/rinsing down, and replacing cam cover gasket, dizzy and wires. E: Your pics weren't loading for me before, that cam cover looks tight, the spark wires don't go under a metal cover like I thought it may, so they're probably OK too. To me looks like a nasty leak on the dizzy o ring, but could still be from something just below that. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 19:07 on May 23, 2018 |
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May 23, 2018 16:32
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2006 Durango SLT 4.7L v8 I'm experiencing some weird throttle and acceleration hiccups. Occasionally, when I put the truck in reverse, and I'm driving slowly, and stop, start reversing again - the truck will stall out. Occasionally, if I'm sitting in Drive, with my foot on the brake just idling (like at a fast food drive-up or something where you sit for 3-5 minutes at a time..) , the truck will stall out. And finally, if the truck is decelerating with my foot off the gas pedal, and it's just coasting down a road; once the speed gets low enough, the RPM's will drop, then rev up, drop, rev up, etc. All these weird occurences in each instance are happening at low speed. My guess is that this is maybe some fuel delivery issue at low speeds? Would using some fuel injector cleaner help possibly? What's going on here? I replaced the fuel pump about 4 months ago, so I don't think it's failing, but I could be wrong.
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May 23, 2018 17:59
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Click for big: These were manufactured on the 27th week of 2009, correct? https://www.hankooktire.com/us/services-tips/tire-guide/tire-sidewall.html Stay away, yeah? Craigslist ad didnt mention age, just "3000 miles since new"
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May 23, 2018 17:59
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Yeah, those are nine year old tires. I wouldn't run them.
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May 23, 2018 18:05
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Dennis McClaren posted:2006 Durango SLT 4.7L v8 Sound like an idle air control valve/solenoid fault or vacuum leaks, I doubt fuel injector cleaner will help. Remove valve, check solenoid winding, clean or replace. And at 12y/o all rubbers and vac lines are suspect so check for leaks (smoke testing), or just replace most of the lines.
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May 23, 2018 18:35
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Another one for the Turismo, I was on my way to get the muffler replaced and the thing started backfiring really badly then it stalled. Long story short is it seems to be the vacuum advance diaphragm went and I lost my vac advance completely. Problem is the diaphragm is mounted on the computer module and no one makes replacements so what do I do? Obviously a used one is very unlikely to work due to age so are there any alternative ways to fix it? Only thing I found was someone posted how to convert it to a points system and I would rather not add an extra layer of unreliability at this time.
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May 23, 2018 21:46
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Do you mean converting to CDI? Because that honestly seems like the better option compared to trying to find a diaphragm. You'd get a better spark that way too. I have no idea what the specs on diaphragms are but I can't imagine there not being a compatible one on another car, somewhere.
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May 24, 2018 12:37
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The part that makes it hard to find is it is a diaphragm with a 2 wire sensor in it, the wires run out of it and directly into the computer with no connector between them. I'll look into CDI since that sounds like a better idea all around. The thing I found was someone put in a points based distributor with built in centrifugal advance from an air cooled VW into theirs.
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May 24, 2018 12:48
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, those are nine year old tires. I wouldn't run them. Anyone ever buy from simpletire.com before? They've got the best price on the tires I want by $5, and its free shipping. Any horror stories?
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May 24, 2018 14:38
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I did! Now I just gotta find a shop that will install them for less than $80.
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May 24, 2018 17:05
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If you use RockAuto, you might consider changing your password (and anywhere else you might have reused that password). My longish and random password popped up in Have I Been Pwned's collection of known dark web passwords.
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May 24, 2018 21:36
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I live in the South Bay Area in CA and want to buy a car for commuting. I know gently caress all about cars, I have a piece of poo poo hyundai accent 2006 and it's manual. I hate driving a manual in traffic. I think this thing is worth like $500 at the most. If I really don't give a gently caress and want a reliable car that is not fancy which is automatic, uh, I don't know what I'm asking really... like what are 'good' cars I can get for say $2000, $4000 and $6000? Of course it'll be used and not new, I don't really care. Just, any make/model to look out for? Any dealer you recommend (I remember someone telling me once about a place that sells used cars and doesn't have salesmen and doesn't do negotiation, that sounds good to me)
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May 26, 2018 07:34
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I think you're thinking of Carmax, but they rarely do cars in that price range. They DO have some of the cleanest cars, and my own experience with them was pretty positive. It's very rare to see a car under $8k on one of their lots (anything under $10k is still a unicorn there). $2000 isn't going to get you much. If you can swing $4k-$6k, and just want a reliable commuter, look at a Toyota Corolla. Comedy option would be a newer (09+) Chevy Malibu or Chevy Cobalt. They're fairly reliable and don't hold their value worth a flying poo poo, but finding one that's been maintained is more of a challenge vs a Toyota. Though the automatic in the Cobalt is pretty sluggish to downshift when you want it to.
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May 26, 2018 07:51
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If you get an 09 Chevy *anything*, be prepared to replace HVAC damper motors. It's still a plague on all of their models, including trucks, a decade after their introduction.
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May 26, 2018 08:00
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In my area anything that runs and drives is automatically worth 1k, and until around 4k it's mostly junk that needs a ton of work. 4-6k has plenty of somewhat higher mileage (70-130k) or older vehicles but there is a good selection. I would look at brands that depreciate really badly to get a good deal. Chevy Cruze is supposed to be especially reliable. Another Hyundai shouldn't be too bad either. My sister bought a newer VW in that price range since they depreciate like a rock in my area but has to replace small parts more often than she should.
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May 26, 2018 14:49
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More fuckity 92 ram van behavior! While driving the voltage gauge, normally at 13, will dip to 12, accompanied by a visible dimming of dash and headlights. It will slowly go down from there to ~11, and no further. Eventually it pops back up to 13 and everything brightens again. This cycle will repeat periodically. Stopping and restarting the engine makes it go back to full power for a bit but eventually it comes back. It had been doing this for a while when I parked for the night, and after I parked and had been sitting a bit the battery read 12.5 so it doesn't appear it wasn't getting charged. While it didn't affect the running and driving of the thing (yet) this seems concerning.
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May 26, 2018 15:42
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2004 Murray riding lawnmower Briggs and Stratton 31D777 0235-E1 0402 9ZD When you push the throttle level fully forward, it engages the choke. When you pull the throttle back a notch, it is supposed to disengage the choke. My choke isn't disengaging. I'm guessing there is a broken spring, but I didn't find any spring remains attached to anything and there isn't any obvious (to me) place where the spring would connect. Any ideas on how the choke is supposed to disengage?
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May 27, 2018 01:14
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There should be a small cylindrical spring that wraps around the choke shaft and rotates the choke open. It could be broken or dislodged.
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May 27, 2018 01:35
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I have a 2003 Civic hybrid. How feasible is it to get a small trailer for hauling heavy poo poo from Home Depot? The car only has an 850-pound load limit and doesn't really have good access for stowing e.g. bags of concrete, bricks, etc. Some cursory googling suggests that it should be able to tow 1000 pounds' worth, and a trailer would be a lot easier to load/unload. I have no idea how trailers work, though. There's no standard-looking trailer hitch with the ball joint; I just have a steel loop welded to the frame which is presumably for towing the car itself if it breaks down, not for the car towing something else. Does the car need to be modified to be able to tow? Do even small trailers require hooking up brake/turn signals? I know the standard answer is just to rent the Home Depot truck but that adds an extra layer of paperwork and complexity to jobs that I'd really rather just not deal with.
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May 27, 2018 17:10
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I'm not sure, but I seem to remember hearing that CVTs and trailers don't go together very well.
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May 27, 2018 17:34
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You definitely need a hitch installed. You also will 100% need to figure out a brake light/turn signal solution as all trailers need them. Do your math, though, because that tow rating is comically small and you're going to shell out a ton of money for laughably small utility. Even a really light trailer is like 300lbs. Home depot offers free/cheap van usage if you buy stuff there, too. With how much the hitch, trailer and wiring are going to cost I would be tempted to price out a beater half ton and run it on temp tags when you need it.
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May 27, 2018 17:36
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http://www.draw-tite.com/products/trailer-hitches/class-i-1-1-4-hitch/class-i-trailer-hitch/WfzaCtfZMf25wM9znIGUwk2Q3LHwhKe8 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Carry-On-Trailer-3-5-ft-x-5-ft-Wire-Mesh-Utility-Trailer/3680952 I was going to link to the utility trailer from Harbor Freight, but they've apparently been pulled due to non-DOT-compliant tires. E: You'll also need a ~$65 wiring harness/converter. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 17:42
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a 2003 Civic hybrid. How feasible is it to get a small trailer for hauling heavy poo poo from Home Depot? The car only has an 850-pound load limit and doesn't really have good access for stowing e.g. bags of concrete, bricks, etc. Some cursory googling suggests that it should be able to tow 1000 pounds' worth, and a trailer would be a lot easier to load/unload. Rent the home depot truck. You've got one of the worst vehicles possible for towing, and what you're talking about doing to modify it isn't that cheap anyway. Yes, you need a towing wiring harness.
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May 27, 2018 17:45
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Twerk from Home posted:Rent the home depot truck. You've got one of the worst vehicles possible for towing, and what you're talking about doing to modify it isn't that cheap anyway. Yes, you need a towing wiring harness. Yeah, this seems like the sane path. The amount of damage that might be done to the Civic if you guess wrong on what it can handle is going to be way more than the cost of renting a truck for a day or even a few hours. Pay the money and be done with it. There's no need to destroy your car over it.
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May 27, 2018 17:48
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A beater van or pickup to haul stuff in would cost less than attaching a hitch to that thing and carry like 5x as much.
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May 27, 2018 17:49
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If you're trying to add coolant to your engine, does it hurt the vehicle in anyway to pour coolant directly into the reservoir, instead of into the radiator first? Or does it make no difference ultimately?
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May 27, 2018 17:50
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Do you have a coolant leak? Does the coolant overflow (reservoir) level go up and down with every drive? As long as it actually functions and the coolant level fluctuates with temperature, and you're doing a small top-up, I see no problem with the overflow. If there's a leak or some other reason you need to regularly fill up, you should add directly to the radiator so you don't end up with airspace in the coolant system itself. Bubbles = bad.
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May 27, 2018 17:57
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Dennis McClaren posted:If you're trying to add coolant to your engine, does it hurt the vehicle in anyway to pour coolant directly into the reservoir, instead of into the radiator first? Or does it make no difference ultimately? For top ups it's usually the only way? Most systems have no direct entry into the rad these days and have the cap somewhere else, or on the reservoir/expansion tank. If you're filling from empty on a cold system, many cars have tricks like loosening a top rad hose and turing it upwards to make a funnel into the engine which means less air purging needed if that's what you are asking. But standard procedure for many cars is LOL, your only option is expansion tank filling and the huge hassle with air bleeding after - this is normal - well maybe, because that's quite the question you asked without even mentioning the car. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:42 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 18:39
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Twerk from Home posted:Rent the home depot truck. You've got one of the worst vehicles possible for towing, and what you're talking about doing to modify it isn't that cheap anyway. Yes, you need a towing wiring harness. Seconding just rent home depot's truck as needed, unless you are making multiple trips a month insurance on a beater vehicle is going to be more expensive and require maintenance. A hitch/trailer would likely not be able to carry much and be expensive to set up. If you still want to though you can prob find the parts+trailer new for about $700-800 without installation, not ideal though due to the CVT. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 18:54 on May 27, 2018 |
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May 27, 2018 18:44
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