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I took advantage of the free shipping period at Lee Valley and went ahead and got some backsaws since I had none. I also grabbed a 'Plywood saw' which was just a dozuki. Ohhh man these are nice. Project I am building now has been made much easier. A few weeks ago I had asked for a few suggestions about sawing off very short bits from ends, too thick to plane down endgrain and too little to saw with my regular crosscut saw. Surprisingly the dozuki is really good at this as well allowing a freehand cut of about 3/16" or so off the endgrain without it breaking off halfway through.
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Jun 9, 2018 22:28
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You're definitely on the right track, and you haven't screwed anything up with the mineral oil or anything. If you're going to use mineral spirits anyway, you might want to wipe off some of the wax first with mineral spirits (or really VM&P Naphtha is best for getting wax off) to help the oil penetrate better. Before using either, you might want to try them on some raw wood and let them dry to see if any odor remains in the wood after they dry. I'm not sure I've ever used them on something that would have food contact, but after they evaporate, I can't see any problem if there's no odor left. If you're really worried about it being food safe (and I wouldn't be that much if its mostly just a serving board) make sure your Tung oil is food safe. There's a million different finishing products called 'tung oil' and they have varying proportions of actual tung oil and linseed oil and dryers and who knows what else in them. I've used Waterlox before to good effect on butcher block countertops and I think when cured it is more or less food safe. Looks like they make one with an 85 gloss which is the same sheen level as gloss lacquer. Raw linseed oil is a good alternative (in its more refined form its sold in health food stores as flaxseed oil) but takes forever (days to weeks) to dry. It is a drying oil and completely food safe/natural though, and will polymerize into something of a film eventually, unlike mineral oil. Either way, waxing after you get the oil down will still help get you a bit better shine, as will more and more coats of oil. Part of the reason old, well used wood has such a nice shine and patina is just being rubbed by many hands for years and years, and oiling while sanding with very fine sandpaper helps replicate some of that. Nah I appreciate the info dump. That’s how we learn! I would never submerge it or dishwasher it. And it’s Rockler’s 100% pure Tung. So I’m good on the food-safe-once-cured front, I believe... I’m assuming once fully dried/evaporated, the mineral spirits in the 50/50 mix will be gone/food safe.
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Jun 10, 2018 00:13
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So I'm designing a box to hold all my trading cards and deck boxes, but I've run into an issue. I want to make the lid a single laminated board, but with the roundover I added I don't really have any room to put a latch or clasp to keep the box closed.   I thought about just using some magnets to keep the lid closed but the front face is really lacking something, anything, to break it up. Wood is going to be jatoba and maple or whatever I have lying around. Thoughts?
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Jun 10, 2018 03:14
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Super Waffle posted:So I'm designing a box to hold all my trading cards and deck boxes, but I've run into an issue. I want to make the lid a single laminated board, but with the roundover I added I don't really have any room to put a latch or clasp to keep the box closed.
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Jun 10, 2018 04:33
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That Works posted:I took advantage of the free shipping period at Lee Valley and went ahead and got some backsaws since I had none. I also grabbed a 'Plywood saw' which was just a dozuki. Ohhh man these are nice. Project I am building now has been made much easier.
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Jun 10, 2018 04:40
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I have a friend with the Bosch 2.25 HP router set that has the fixed base, plunge base, carry case, and a box of a few router bits. He offered to sell it to me for $150. It looks lightly if barely used. Is this a good price?
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Jun 10, 2018 06:10
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MetaJew posted:I have a friend with the Bosch 2.25 HP router set that has the fixed base, plunge base, carry case, and a box of a few router bits. He offered to sell it to me for $150. It looks lightly if barely used. Is this a good price? It's fair if you like the way it feels and runs and can use the bits.
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Jun 10, 2018 14:56
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The Bosch 1617 fixed base is awesome, but the plunge base is a little mediocre. I think a new fixed-only is right around that price. That said, he who dies with the most routers in the shop wins so it's maybe worth it. Also the evs > fixed speed. e: speaking of bosch routers, you know how when you have a hammer, everything looks like a nail? When you have a slot mortiser, everything looks like a slot mortise. Started throwing together a really quick little box to hold a gift, wanted to recess the bottom but forgot to do it ahead of the glueup. Don't have an ultra tiny rabbit bit and setting up a fence on the router table takes some screwing around and a sketchy trapped cut so..   Took like 20 seconds to set up. Awesome. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Jun 10, 2018 |
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Jun 10, 2018 15:42
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I am impressed.
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Jun 10, 2018 23:23
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I finally built out the router table wing extension for my Delta  I plan on getting a proper router place eventually, but this'll do for now
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Jun 11, 2018 15:16
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Does anyone have a good tutorial etc on fitting and squaring up stuff? Ie, tricks, systematic way to do it etc? I wanted to build a standing cabinet out of scrap wood I had left from my other projects and practice frame and panel construction for the 1st time as well. I built 2 side panels with mortise and tenon on the horizontal stringers, 1/4" grooves cut on the internal sides and these frame a 1/4" piece of plywood. The front and back surfaces have 2 and 3 horizontal stringers (2"x12"x3/4") respectively and these are set flush into rabbets and will be glued / screwed into place.  I was extremely careful to cut all parts to matching size, made matching rabbets, mortises and tenons and things came out as uniformly as I can manage with my current skills but it all seemed extremely close (ie if there were any size variations they were less than 1/16" from each other. Side panels were glued up 1st and were checked with squares internal and external to the framed plywood and came out square, I was happy with those and they seem to be good except for some bowing (see below) Now in testing the final assembly the interior angles aren't square. If you looked at it from the top down the interior right angles are actually a trapezoid off by about 5 degrees. Also one of the vertical stringers in the side panel is bowing inward like an hourglass due to some kind of warping. I reckon I can fix the bowing inward by mounting one of the shelves in permanently and very tightly to force out the inward bow. Would that be enough to fix the trapezoid problem inside the cabinet as well?  However to fix the trapezoid I am not sure if there is a 'proper' way to do it or not and in general I don't know if there's a 'proper' way to do this type of assembly to ensure a more square final form. The back plate will be entirely covered with 1/4" plywood likely stapled into the frame and the front needs to stay relatively open as there will be 4 shelves and it's covered by a single hinged door.
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Jun 11, 2018 17:37
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That Works posted:Does anyone have a good tutorial etc on fitting and squaring up stuff? Ie, tricks, systematic way to do it etc? -Panels not actually flat: This happens a lot of if the inside edge of your rail is slightly off square, or if the shoulders of your tenon are a little uneven or not square. You go to glue it up, and the styles pull up under the pressure of the clamp, leaving them at a slight angle to the rail. Clamping cauls across the joint with c-clamps to keep things flat while you bar clamp the assembly together will help, as will making sure everything is square before assembly. If you're cutting your joinery by hand, it can be very tricky to get both shoulders exactly even-on many antiques with pegged tenons, the inside shoulder is intentionally left short to make sure the outside shoulder is tight and it goes together square. You can flatten your panels with a plane without too much trouble if they are not flat and this is causing your problem. Panels not square: This usually happens because the rails are not all the exact same length shoulder to shoulder. I always cut them with a stop block on the chop saw or a cross cut sled on the table saw using the fence as a stop, and run them all through the same machining process for the tenons. It's harder to get perfect by hand. Your warped style could be causing some problems too-always best to face join stuff before you plane it, by that's. It always possible, and construction lumber isn't terrible well dried and stable either. Your idea of putting a shelf there will help, and don't be afraid to cut things to fit reality to make it all come out square-wood moves and warps and we're not machinists. Edit: Adding a top, bottom, and shelf that were square and fastening the sides to that should square everything up, as well as stiffening it all up a bit. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Jun 11, 2018 |
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Jun 11, 2018 19:05
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SO when I was at Rockler, the finishing guy recommended my first coat of pure Tung oil be cut 50/50 with Mineral Spirits. I get why. I asked if it was still food safe. He says yes, confidently. Cut to today, I'm reading websites and forums and they all pretty much have the disclaimer "if you cut your Tung Oil with anything, remember, it is no longer food safe." So which is it? (for the record, it's for a charcuterie board, (not a cutting board) and I plan for 3 or more coats of pure tung beyond the 50/50 coat.
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Jun 12, 2018 00:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can fix your trapezoid problem by cutting a stretcher to make it come out square, and don't ever tell anyone about it. A few things can go wrong with frame and panel work, and a few tips to avoid them: Thanks, it warped a bit after I cut the grooves for the ply to insert into. This is quite helpful.
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Jun 12, 2018 00:17
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I received 10 very large poles for a project I probably won't be able to start until next year. How should I store them? They measure 15x15x600cm (32 foot 6x6s) and are pressure treated to Class A for direct soil contact. I'm assuming I should build some flat surface out of perpendicular boards to lift them off the ground but enough of them that they are stably support and in a straight line, with spacers in a 3x3x3x1 pyramid pattern and then cover with a tarp and or building plastic, but I wanted to get more advice. This will be in Iceland where it *will* be snowed on repeatedly with heavy wind too.
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Jun 12, 2018 00:29
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bEatmstrJ posted:I guess maybe this belongs in the woodworking thread. I'm trying to install a piece of granite as a floating shelf with a custom drawer under it and I'm looking for some advice on mounting as well as what materials are recommended. The counter will be about 60"x20". There will be a cabinet sitting on the floor which I had intended to use as a partial support of the countertop. Framing out the rest to support the plywood/countertop I came up with this, but am looking for any ideas on what might be better. The ledger boards on the walls will obviously be screwed into studs. Any suggestions for this?
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Jun 12, 2018 00:50
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Feenix posted:SO when I was at Rockler, the finishing guy recommended my first coat of pure Tung oil be cut 50/50 with Mineral Spirits. I get why. I asked if it was still food safe. He says yes, confidently.
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Jun 12, 2018 01:08
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bEatmstrJ posted:Any suggestions for this?
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Jun 12, 2018 01:21
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poopinmymouth posted:I received 10 very large poles for a project I probably won't be able to start until next year. How should I store them? They measure 15x15x600cm (32 foot 6x6s) and are pressure treated to Class A for direct soil contact. They're pressure-treated, so really your main priorities are just keeping them clean, out of the way, and not completely sopping. Keeping some space above/below them so air can circulate will help with letting excess moisture clear out, and the tarp's a good idea, but I don't think this is something you need to think super-carefully about. Mm, that said, you might want to paint the ends of the boards, so that they don't dry out faster than the middles and cause the boards to split. The paint just forms a water-impermeable coating that forces any water in the wood to exit out the side grain instead of the end grain; this is a slower process and thus means there won't be different levels of dryness along the length of the board (which is bad).
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Jun 12, 2018 01:27
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I'd skip cutting the Tung oil because I'm lazy and wouldn't want to mess up another jar, but I don't think it matters either way. I wouldn't worry too much about mineral spirits or whatever not being food safe-I definitely wouldn't drink it, but it's not cyanide and I doubt the tiny bit you might ingest could ever hurt you. You've already flooded the board with mineral oil, so I don't know that you're going to get much more penetration in any case. Maybe the mineral spirits would cut the mineral oil already in there and help the tung oil adhere better? Just can't really see that being an issue, but I don't think it would hurt either. Still not a bad idea to get some of the wax off first though. For raw linseed oil, I do usually thin the first coat with good turpentine (the kind that doesn't stink) to help it penetrate, but who knows if it actually helps. Might let the mineral oil already in there have a week or two to suck down in the wood so the surface is a little less oily, but I doubt that really matters. Gotcha. thank you! 
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Jun 12, 2018 01:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think your framing looks fine. Do you want the cabinet black? Painted plywood or solid wood would probably be fine, but I'm not sure it would give you sleek design it looks like you might be looking for-might want to cover your plywood with black Formica or something, but Formica is kind of a pain to work with. You might be able to find stock cabinets/parts of you didn't want to make your own? It would sure look handsome in walnut with a black granite top. I'm actually working on a piece now in black cerused oak that would look nice too. Agreed re: framing. How about 2 rollout file size drawers faced with corian to match the top? Or I suppose you could get 1/2" granite faces?
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Jun 12, 2018 03:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think your framing looks fine. Do you want the cabinet black? Painted plywood or solid wood would probably be fine, but I'm not sure it would give you sleek design it looks like you might be looking for-might want to cover your plywood with black Formica or something, but Formica is kind of a pain to work with. You might be able to find stock cabinets/parts of you didn't want to make your own? It would sure look handsome in walnut with a black granite top. I'm actually working on a piece now in black cerused oak that would look nice too. The cabinet I already have. It's kind of a mix of colors with one high gloss black drawer and another sort of wood pattern drawer. The custom under counter drawer will be gloss black as well. I went with a 2x6 stud for the ledger board and may add some heavy duty L brackets above the drawer for more counter support, although I'm not sure thats needed. Will probably get the cabinet in place tomorrow and work around that since I need it for height measurement.
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Jun 12, 2018 04:17
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I joined a Maker Space this month and just got done taking the woodshop class (Don't break you or the machines type class). I haven't had access to an industrial wood shop in over 15 years, my garage full of contractor saws feels so lovely now. Cant wait till pay day to blow my check on lumber and get started 
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Jun 12, 2018 04:53
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A longs way back this was posted here, but I figured I'd get a fresh perspective. My Mother wants me to build this table for her. My plan is to grab some spruce 4x4s and plane them square myself. Stain it then apply some sort of finish, probably something rather durable as spruce isn't very hard itself. There was talk before about improving the design and I was curious what people thought before I get started. Specifically the way the table top attaches to the legs seems to be the main issue. http://builditcraftitloveit.com/knockoff-west-elm-emmerson-dining-table/  Thoughts?
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Jun 12, 2018 15:21
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I remember posting that! I even started to begin putting it together but after a bit my wife decided on something less bulky. The biggest issue I ran into was finding decent straight 4x4. If I remember correctly, one of the things brought up last time was wood movement but it's been awhile since I posted that.
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Jun 12, 2018 15:34
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Wood movement was my worry as well. I tried to review the old posts but couldn't find a consensus on a good solution. I just emailed a lumber yard about some S4S 4x4s. But if they don't have them for a decent price I can get rough cut Spruce ones there and plane them myself.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:09
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That table looks like it weighs 300lbs.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:15
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I'm into that.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:24
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This is where I posted about it. I think the main thing about that table is it would be just me moving that monstrosity.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:39
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There aren't really any wood movement issues with that, other than needing to counterbore and use oversized holes in the weird little leg-surround that's holding the legs generally in place. It would be better to lag a board down into the legs and then screw that up into the table (with oversized/slotted holes) for a little more racking resistance. The biggest problem is using home center 4x4s will give you a big table made entirely (or nearly) of boxed heart lumber glued together which is a recipe for whoops rustic later on. e: based on the dimensions on the article, the top is 5.3 cubic feet, the base total is another 1.6 (26" tall by probably 30ish wide for the base slabs?) That's 135 pounds for the top and 40 lbs for each leg. Really not awful, unless you need an easily mobile dining table. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Jun 12, 2018 |
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Jun 12, 2018 16:53
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My local Home Depot actually usually has fairly clear Douglas fir 4x4x8's that are pretty straight for construction lumber. I'd definitely want to still run them over the jointer before I thought about gluing them up, but you might get away with just running them through a planer. Also note that putting a very hard durable finish over a very soft wood is not a great idea-if the finish is harder than the wood, a dent in the wood will turn into cracks in the finish. The same principle applies when recoating an old finish (generally better to strip and start over, but okay sometimes). If you put a hard finish like a conversion varnish over a soft nitrocellulose lacquer or shellac, the top finish will crack, whereas you can put nitrocellulose lacquer over CV. For the same reason, padding lacquer (which is actually shellac) is about the only finish you should ever put over any other finish if you're too lazy to strip furniture.
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Jun 12, 2018 17:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:My local Home Depot actually usually has fairly clear Douglas fir 4x4x8's that are pretty straight for construction lumber. I'd definitely want to still run them over the jointer before I thought about gluing them up, but you might get away with just running them through a planer. My Home Depot seems to only carry pressure treated 4x4s. But we have a local Tamarack Lumber i just emailed to get some pricing. I know thay have super rough 4x4s I've bought for garden edging. Hoping they have some S4S I can just buy outright. That's good to know about the finish. Thanks! What would recommend for a table then? I did some wipe on poly for a pine desk I made years ago and it seems to have help up well.
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Jun 12, 2018 17:20
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keep it down up there! posted:My Home Depot seems to only carry pressure treated 4x4s. But we have a local Tamarack Lumber i just emailed to get some pricing. I know thay have super rough 4x4s I've bought for garden edging. Hoping they have some S4S I can just buy outright. If it's a price thing and you care enough, go back to Home Depot and look harder. They almost definitely have untreated 4x4s. In my store they are in a dumb location, though, so you may just want to ask someone.
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Jun 12, 2018 18:22
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keep it down up there! posted:A longs way back this was posted here, but I figured I'd get a fresh perspective. Someone might claim movement issues thinking that the top is fully fixed to the perpendicular-grained flats on top of each leg. But it's a knock-down design, so that's not the case, I assume. Not sure how it's fixed, though -- big figure-8s? More importantly, LOL at calling that a "knock-down." Like, sure, let's casually separate these hundred pound components and cart them around, no worries.
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Jun 12, 2018 20:03
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Cobalt60 posted:More importantly, LOL at calling that a "knock-down." Like, sure, let's casually separate these hundred pound components and cart them around, no worries. Sure as hell easier than moving the entire thing as a single piece. And with those pinned through tenons, you shouldn't need anything more than a mallet to take it apart / put it together again, right?
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Jun 12, 2018 20:15
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I dunno, I really like that table.
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Jun 12, 2018 20:56
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I started on an entryway coat rack / shelf / key rack thing yesterday. New router table seems to have the insert sunk in some, giving uneven results. Did I miss a step while assembling it or do they usually require shims or what? It's a Bosch RA1171.
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Jun 12, 2018 21:25
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Tres Burritos posted:I dunno, I really like that table.  looks pretty cool.
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Jun 12, 2018 22:56
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ilkhan posted:I started on an entryway coat rack / shelf / key rack thing yesterday. New router table seems to have the insert sunk in some, giving uneven results. Did I miss a step while assembling it or do they usually require shims or what? It's a Bosch RA1171.
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Jun 12, 2018 23:52
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ilkhan posted:I started on an entryway coat rack / shelf / key rack thing yesterday. New router table seems to have the insert sunk in some, giving uneven results. Did I miss a step while assembling it or do they usually require shims or what? It's a Bosch RA1171. If you're talking about the big aluminum plate, there should be leveling screws. If you mean the plastic inserts, those are a fixed height unless you shim it with tape or something. I'd suggest throwing a piece of hardboard on top to cover the whole thing and make it flat and complaining to Bosch when you get a chance. efb
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Jun 12, 2018 23:52
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