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Not precisely a painting question, but applicable in a painting thread anyway: How long can I leave Forgeworld resin in Simple Green before the Simple Green starts to attack the resin itself? Overnight soak in soapy water, toothbrush, and ultrasonic cleaner bath is not getting off the releasing agent on a few specific models, which I suspect is a function of them having sat in a warehouse for a good long time, giving the release agent a chance to really, really dry and harden. (Yes, I know Purple Power is better; I can't find it where I live.)
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Jun 19, 2018 17:17
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bird food bathtub posted:When you say Gorilla Glue is it their normal Gorilla Glue or some version of cyanoacrylate that they make? The normal Gorilla Glue expands a lot during drying and I see that causing all sorts of problems. It was this kind: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IY82FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Please let me know if that was the wrong kind, so I can cancel it if needed.
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Jun 19, 2018 17:59
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Max Wilco posted:It was this kind: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001IY82FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 That is super glue. You are good. Just keep it out of your eyes.
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Jun 19, 2018 18:02
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You might want to go to like a dollar store and pick up a package of a hundred toothpicks or something, and use them to apply the superglue instead of applying it straight out of the bottle. Applying superglue straight out of a squeeze-tube is a great way to put too much on.
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Jun 19, 2018 18:10
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dexefiend posted:Just keep it out of your eyes. OTOH if you cut your eye you can use it to seal the wound. you can do that for small finger bites from your hobby knife though
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Jun 19, 2018 20:51
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_83MEuLoz9Y What was it mother always said about putting
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Jun 19, 2018 21:10
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Badablack posted:When edge highlighting, remember it’s not just because you’re painting the edges, it’s because you use the edge of the brush to do it. That's... not actually true I think. The edge of the brush is often what you want to use for edge highlighting but sometimes you really can't, like if you're painting a line down the middle of a double edged sword.
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Jun 19, 2018 21:20
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The Moon Monster posted:That's... not actually true I think. The edge of the brush is often what you want to use for edge highlighting but sometimes you really can't, like if you're painting a line down the middle of a double edged sword.
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Jun 19, 2018 21:30
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how rude
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Jun 19, 2018 23:28
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Ghosts are fun.
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Jun 20, 2018 01:03
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If you're gluing plastics together and not using Testor's Model Master liquid cement, you should re-evaluate your life choices.
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Jun 20, 2018 02:36
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I’ll second the testors, that stuff is wonderful. Thick consistency so it doesn’t run, long needle nozzle for poking where you want it, and a gloss black container that exudes erotic power. Simply beautiful.
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Jun 20, 2018 02:40
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tamiya extra thin cement is better
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Jun 20, 2018 02:40
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:tamiya extra thin cement is better 
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Jun 20, 2018 02:44
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Stephenls posted:Not precisely a painting question, but applicable in a painting thread anyway: I don't think Simple Green is going to cut it here. You might want to let'em soak in some 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. That should leech most of the release agent off of it.
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Jun 20, 2018 02:44
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:tamiya extra thin cement is better Revell Contacta 4 lyfe 
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Jun 20, 2018 02:48
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Badablack posted:I’ll second the testors, that stuff is wonderful. Thick consistency so it doesn’t run, long needle nozzle for poking where you want it, and a gloss black container that exudes erotic power. Simply beautiful. I can't find it with a needle nozzle. Just a thick, plastic nozzle that is terrible. I got some and while the glue is great, the applicator is garbage.
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Jun 20, 2018 02:56
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brush applicators are superior for gluing models
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Jun 20, 2018 03:02
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Slimnoid posted:I don't think Simple Green is going to cut it here. You might want to let'em soak in some 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. That should leech most of the release agent off of it. Do not put Forge World resin in alcohol. It will leech the hardener from it and it'll turn into a floppy mess or just disintegrate.
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Jun 20, 2018 03:16
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Slimnoid posted:I don't think Simple Green is going to cut it here. You might want to let'em soak in some 90%+ isopropyl alcohol. That should leech most of the release agent off of it. No alcohol on Resin! It will make it flimsy! Edit:   
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Jun 20, 2018 03:17
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Hidden cache of Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld. Get on my level.
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Jun 20, 2018 03:21
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Hidden cache of Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld. Which one tastes better?
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Jun 20, 2018 03:29
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Hidden cache of Tenax-7R and Ambroid Pro-Weld. Is pro-weld no longer available? I lost a bottle of it when I moved.
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Jun 20, 2018 04:12
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TTerrible posted:Do not put Forge World resin in alcohol. It will leech the hardener from it and it'll turn into a floppy mess or just disintegrate. Forgot about that. Whoops. Yeah I dunno, maybe a degreaser like LA's Totally Awesome?
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Jun 20, 2018 04:44
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 https://imgur.com/gallery/XrAVLVy Star Saga box finally finished (save terrain) and documented. Not going to post all 31 pics ITT but here's three I was pretty happy about :   
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Jun 20, 2018 04:50
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Slimnoid posted:Yeah I dunno, maybe a degreaser like LA's Totally Awesome? Simple Green is also a degreaser, but apparently their formula sucks for minis now (i.e. it doesn't do much of anything). I have not tested this.
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Jun 20, 2018 05:10
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Ilor posted:If the middle of that sword is raised, I will absolutely use the edge of my brush to highlight it. When I see swords like that it's usually something like a 170 degree angle. So technically a bit raised but it would be very difficult to get a good thin line with the edge of your brush. My point is that there are edges that it's easier to highlight with the tip of your brush, and back when I was learning to edge highlight every video I watched said the same thing.
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Jun 20, 2018 10:41
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First time painting after 3+ years.  
Weissritter fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 13:02
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X-postin from the 40k threadMikey Purp posted:Testing out some possible paint colors for my blood angels, any opinions on this?
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Jun 20, 2018 14:42
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A buddy of mine used Tamiya Clear red over a gold basecoat for his scourge ships, it turned out really well and not brown at all. I'd recommend doing a test piece at least.
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Jun 20, 2018 14:50
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BlackIronHeart posted:If you're gluing plastics together and not using Testor's Model Master liquid cement, you should re-evaluate your life choices. I was going to order that, but it was like $8, and I wasn't sure if it was a good choice when starting out.
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Jun 20, 2018 15:54
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Tamiya clear paints are not water-based, right? I use a hood for airbrushing but don't actually vent it outside, which I'm cool with when just doing water-based acrylics but there's legit organic solvents in the tamiya stuff, isn't there?
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Jun 20, 2018 17:33
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bonds0097 posted:Tamiya clear paints are not water-based, right? I use a hood for airbrushing but don't actually vent it outside, which I'm cool with when just doing water-based acrylics but there's legit organic solvents in the tamiya stuff, isn't there? They are indeed alcohol based. I believe they can be thinned to a certain extent with water, but still breaks down fairly quickly.
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Jun 20, 2018 17:36
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bonds0097 posted:Tamiya clear paints are not water-based, right? I use a hood for airbrushing but don't actually vent it outside, which I'm cool with when just doing water-based acrylics but there's legit organic solvents in the tamiya stuff, isn't there? Yes, you need to use x-20a thinner and if you're not venting outside should probably wear a mask.
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Jun 20, 2018 17:42
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Neurolimal posted:
These are pretty good, but they would look 10 times better with finished bases.
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Jun 20, 2018 18:04
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Booley posted:Yes, you need to use x-20a thinner and if you're not venting outside should probably wear a mask. Oh, for sure. I use P100 filters rated for organic vapors and replace them every 60 days or so (pretty sure I average less than an hour of airbrushing a day).
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Jun 20, 2018 18:15
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Booyah- posted:These are pretty good, but they would look 10 times better with finished bases. The Star Saga box comes with a ton of terrain; I want to get it painted first, then return to the models and give them appropriate bases. This is wave one of I believe three waves of miniatures in the kickstarter; when Wave Two comes I'l be returning to the terrain first and foremost. For now I'm working on basing my Inceptors and LotD. 
Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 20, 2018 18:23
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Okay... So I got the primer and super glue today, and I picked up a flush cutter and some detail brushes while I was at WalMart. I think I should be ready to prime the model.  I also had these larger brushes, which I thought might be useful for priming the whole model a lot faster. What I want to know is how to apply the primer. Do I need to thin in water like I would with paint, and should I use one of those larger brushes, or should I one of the smaller ones in the pack I bought?
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Jun 20, 2018 23:25
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Max Wilco posted:Okay... You don't need to thin the primer, but when you apply it you need to make sure it doesn't pool too much in the recesses. If one of your smaller brushes has a large flat edge that would be ideal for applying it. Also there will be hella brush strokes because it's not very thick, but that's fine, you just need the thin layer to help the base coat adhere next.
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Jun 20, 2018 23:42
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| # ? May 26, 2024 19:32 |
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The Vallejo surface primer shrinks when it dries, so don't be afraid to slather it on unthinned. Just use a clean brush to soak up any excess after it's completely covered.
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Jun 21, 2018 03:39
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