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WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Max Wilco posted:

I'm trying to paint the marine right now. I imagine it's going to take a while to finish the basecoating.




Is it possible to thin your paints too much?

Yes that is too thin, it should cover decently well but with a few visible brush strokes if you are going for the "two thin coats" consistency. What exact paint is that red you are using?

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Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009

Booyah- posted:

Yes that is too thin, it should cover decently well but with a few visible brush strokes if you are going for the "two thin coats" consistency. What exact paint is that red you are using?

probably the red that came in the set he posted like a handful of posts before yours???

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:

probably the red that came in the set he posted like a handful of posts before yours???

:doh:

I've used army painter pure red which I'm guessing is the same as what they put in that set. It's more transparent than the citadel or vallejo equivalents for sure, but not that much

Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009
ive gotta say you really picked a tough primary color to start your first ever mini. if i were you, id get a red primer and start over if you wanna go down that crazy route

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Booyah- posted:

:doh:

I've used army painter pure red which I'm guessing is the same as what they put in that set. It's more transparent than the citadel or vallejo equivalents for sure, but not that much

Specifically, the color is Starfire Red. Do you think I could just use like it is right out of the bottle?


Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:

ive gotta say you really picked a tough primary color to start your first ever mini. if i were you, id get a red primer and start over if you wanna go down that crazy route

I just keep screwing up, huh. :sigh:

I really don't want to buy any more paint or primer at this time. I could try to finish painting it red, then paint over in blue and give it a purplish color overall.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Booyah- posted:

This weekend's experiment

When doing oil weathering over acrylic, do I need to seal the paint first or can I just line/wash directly over my acrylic undercoats?



You don't have to seal, but you'll get better results if you do. Oil paint will tend to spread out and act more like a Filter on a matte surface. If you put a satin or gloss coat on the mini first though, the wash will stick more to the low points and creases of the figure.

It still perfectly doable on a figure with a matte surface, but you may have to go in and do more cleanup to remove any oil that spread to areas you didn't want it in.

Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009

Max Wilco posted:

Specifically, the color is Starfire Red. Do you think I could just use like it is right out of the bottle?


I just keep screwing up, huh. :sigh:

I really don't want to buy any more paint or primer at this time. I could try to finish painting it red, then paint over in blue and give it a purplish color overall.

honestly, you could probably just go over what you have with blue right now. the blue should cover up the red pretty easily and it wont mix with it unless the red is still wet

blue is a much more forgiving color to paint. red, yellow and white are generally the toughest to get right

GreenMarine
Apr 25, 2009

Switchblade Switcharoo

Max Wilco posted:

Is it possible to thin your paints too much?

Yes that might be a tad overly thin, although it'll eventually work. Red over white might take more than 2 thin coats, though. Check again after the next coat and see if it's evening out.

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
xpost from a bad game thread:

Major Spag posted:

I posted this in Discord so not sure why I am posting this here but then here we are:



I gotta go back and fix some lenses and some purity seals though.

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
Just hit the red a few times over, you're better off with a bunch of thin coats of something you like.


I wish I could find the first model I painted, it would be the worst thing posted here by a country mile.

Neurolimal
Nov 3, 2012


Plastic boys

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

You don't have to seal, but you'll get better results if you do. Oil paint will tend to spread out and act more like a Filter on a matte surface. If you put a satin or gloss coat on the mini first though, the wash will stick more to the low points and creases of the figure.

It still perfectly doable on a figure with a matte surface, but you may have to go in and do more cleanup to remove any oil that spread to areas you didn't want it in.


dexefiend posted:

I always gloss varnish before using oils.

thanks!

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...


There, that seems more like it.

I more-or-less used the paint as it came out the dropper, albeit after spreading it out a bit on the palette, and while using water to dilute in place where I though it was too thick. I really didn't have to do multiple coats, per se, but I think I got it where it went in smoothly with the details. It does seem a little gritty in places, but that could just be from not clearing the mold-lines properly.

I guess now it's time to start doing the shade.

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Max Wilco posted:



There, that seems more like it.

I more-or-less used the paint as it came out the dropper, albeit after spreading it out a bit on the palette, and while using water to dilute in place where I though it was too thick. I really didn't have to do multiple coats, per se, but I think I got it where it went in smoothly with the details. It does seem a little gritty in places, but that could just be from not clearing the mold-lines properly.

I guess now it's time to start doing the shade.

Looks good dude. Reminds me I need to get back to painting.

Merton Blask
Jun 30, 2008

So it's true! Mysterio is
gay for sex... with me?
Crosspostin’ from the 40k thread, here to show off my latest shiny robot! Necron Cryptek, Canoptek Cloak.





There’s another pair of LEDs in the backpack, but they don’t show up at this angle.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Max Wilco posted:



There, that seems more like it.

I more-or-less used the paint as it came out the dropper, albeit after spreading it out a bit on the palette, and while using water to dilute in place where I though it was too thick. I really didn't have to do multiple coats, per se, but I think I got it where it went in smoothly with the details. It does seem a little gritty in places, but that could just be from not clearing the mold-lines properly.

I guess now it's time to start doing the shade.

Nobody starts painting beautiful minis on their first try. Dive in and throw down some paint, experiment with different thickness of paint, different color combinations and different brush styles. The important thing for you right now is to learn what works for you and what doesn't. Watch lots of videos and try out what you learned, then paint over your little man and try again. Be fearless at this stage, the worst that can happen right now is you paint an ugly model and then you just strip it and start over. So work fast, get the bad paint jobs out of your system now so you can move on to the good ones.

Luebbi
Jul 28, 2000
I finished Kwaak & Gub for Hordes - it's a frogman (Croak) with a smaller twin coming out of his belly, Total Recall Style. I like my miniatures bright and popping on the table, and it shows ;)

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...
It took the majority of the evening, but I finished the space marine (more or less)

]





I suppose it's not really surprising for me to say that I had trouble with the eyes. I also realized that I forgot to paint the ribbon.

The paint still looks a little gritty, and I wonder if it's because I didn't thin it properly. I will say that I'm happy with how the base details came out.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.
It looks okay. Yeah, you could maybe thin the paints better and apply more coats. Especially the blue on red, that needs more layers in order to build a consistent dark blue, right now some red is poking through.

Eyes are super hard, you need a really small brush and the right technique.

Do you know about washes? Get some nuln oil or fuegan orange and let some of it soak into the cracks and suddenly your model will go from looking amateur to looking pro.

watch all of Duncan's videos asap.

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

Max Wilco posted:

It took the majority of the evening, but I finished the space marine (more or less)

]





I suppose it's not really surprising for me to say that I had trouble with the eyes. I also realized that I forgot to paint the ribbon.

The paint still looks a little gritty, and I wonder if it's because I didn't thin it properly. I will say that I'm happy with how the base details came out.

That's really good for a literally first model!

I'd echo getting a wash on that baby. I'd be a bit cautious with nuln but orange or carronburg crimson will make it look very good.

LordAba
Oct 22, 2012

by FactsAreUseless

Luebbi posted:

I finished Kwaak & Gub for Hordes - it's a frogman (Croak) with a smaller twin coming out of his belly, Total Recall Style. I like my miniatures bright and popping on the table, and it shows ;)



I do like the colors! There is a nice contrast between the Master and the Blaster (as it were).

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

spectralent posted:

That's really good for a literally first model!

I'd echo getting a wash on that baby. I'd be a bit cautious with nuln but orange or carronburg crimson will make it look very good.

Do you mean another coat of wash/shade? Because I did apply a shade to the crevices, as well as some other parts to give it a more dirty look. You can see some of the shading in the photo of the back, in the coils by the knees. It maybe doesn't show up real well, since the photos my phone takes come out blotchy, and I don't have the best lighting. I'll try to upload some better quality ones if I can find a better camera.

The shade I'm using is Glauerdoom Shade from the Army Painter Dungeon Painter set. I don't have any of the Citadel stuff.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Max Wilco posted:


The paint still looks a little gritty, and I wonder if it's because I didn't thin it properly. I will say that I'm happy with how the base details came out.

I think the main issue was that you applied too much primer. looking back at your primed mini you can see the same texture. how many coats of primer did you apply?

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes
Not technically a mini but whatever.

I got a new Renegade Krome airbrush to go with my 105 and decided to give it a quick test drive on a Gundam I had laying around.





I normally paint over white primer, but with the airbrush painting over black lets you do some really cool color modulation and shading. I'm digging this thing a lot .

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
Got some stuff done.

TPD for my slowly growing AdMech army. Just need to do some more skitarii and a couple of Knights.


The local GW were kind enough to give one of their beginners painting models when I popped in for some paint. It's a shame she's not the bare-headed version, but it was a dream to paint.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Z the IVth posted:

Got some stuff done.

TPD for my slowly growing AdMech army. Just need to do some more skitarii and a couple of Knights.


The local GW were kind enough to give one of their beginners painting models when I popped in for some paint. It's a shame she's not the bare-headed version, but it was a dream to paint.


Goddamn

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Z the IVth posted:

Got some stuff done.

TPD for my slowly growing AdMech army. Just need to do some more skitarii and a couple of Knights.


The local GW were kind enough to give one of their beginners painting models when I popped in for some paint. It's a shame she's not the bare-headed version, but it was a dream to paint.


Both of those rule but I especially love the stormcast. Do have an outline for that marble recipe?

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Booyah- posted:

I think the main issue was that you applied too much primer. looking back at your primed mini you can see the same texture. how many coats of primer did you apply?

I honestly didn't really keep track of how many coats, I think I just was trying to make sure I got it coated on everything decently, so it's likely I put too much on.

The primed model vs some new photos I took (using the phone camera still, but with better lighting)





I was going to start on assembling the Chaos Space Marine now. However I was curious about a couple of things.

First, I was wondering a bit about basing. I had it mind to use something from outdoors to base the model in, but I wasn't sure how pratical that was. Obviously, it should be something that's dried out, but I'm skeptical about the effectiveness or hygiene of sprinkling dirt or sand onto a model

Secondly, is regarding this box cover:

Was this an actual model? (Please tell me it was)

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Max Wilco posted:

First, I was wondering a bit about basing. I had it mind to use something from outdoors to base the model in, but I wasn't sure how pratical that was. Obviously, it should be something that's dried out, but I'm skeptical about the effectiveness or hygiene of sprinkling dirt or sand onto a model

Stuff from outside is fine (though I'd probably put a coat of varnish over any plant material so it doesn't rot), and it's really common to just use backyard dirt for stuff like model railroading. However for basing figures, I usually find it's less effort to just buy a bag of something that looks nice from your favorite hobby shop; it's not like you need that much.

Zaphod42
Sep 13, 2012

If there's anything more important than my ego around, I want it caught and shot now.

Max Wilco posted:

Was this an actual model? (Please tell me it was)

That's a titan, and yes they existed, and some titans are still for sale. You have to get them from forge world and they cost literal thousands of dollars.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Max Wilco posted:

Secondly, is regarding this box cover:

Was this an actual model? (Please tell me it was)

Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...

Avenging Dentist posted:

Stuff from outside is fine (though I'd probably put a coat of varnish over any plant material so it doesn't rot), and it's really common to just use backyard dirt for stuff like model railroading. However for basing figures, I usually find it's less effort to just buy a bag of something that looks nice from your favorite hobby shop; it's not like you need that much.

Maybe I'll look into that when I get my next paycheck.

Also, I opened up the Chaos Space Marines, and they're actually mostly assembled! The mini that came with the book I bought at GW (the one I just painted) was separated into more parts. With these, it's just the body and the guns.

I'm a little hesitant to start painting them, mostly because I'm worried about messing up the primer again, but also because I'd like to have some more colors to paint with. I tried mixing colors a bit with the Dungeon Painter kit, but it didn't seem mesh well depending on the paint. I got some good grey and dark metal by mixing the white, black, and silver paints. However, I tried to make gold, but mixing the silver with the yellow didn't work (the yellow paint seem sort of runny, even after shaking), and silver mixed with brown didn't really work to make a bronze either.


Oh my god. I didn't think it actually would be real. :aaa:

I'm guessing they don't sell it anymore, though. (That ad looks pretty old)

Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jun 23, 2018

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Max Wilco posted:

Maybe I'll look into that when I get my next paycheck.

Also, I opened up the Chaos Space Marines, and they're actually mostly assembled! The mini that came with the book I bought at GW (the one I just painted) was separated into more parts. With these, it's just the body and the guns.

I'm a little hesitant to start painting them, mostly because I'm worried about messing up the primer again, but also because I'd like to have some more colors to paint with. I tried mixing colors a bit with the Dungeon Painter kit, but it didn't seem mesh well depending on the paint. I got some good grey and dark metal by mixing the white, black, and silver paints. However, I tried to make gold, but mixing the silver with the yellow didn't work (the yellow paint seem sort of runny, even after shaking), and silver mixed with brown didn't really work to make a bronze either.


Oh my god. I didn't think it actually would be real. :aaa:

I'm guessing they don't sell it anymore, though. (That ad looks pretty old)

Don't worry about messing up the primer, basically you should only do a maximum of two coats, otherwise it will start to get bumpy and uneven. You're not going for perfect coverage with the primer, just a decent surface that the base coat can stick to.

try not to get bogged down worried you will mess something up, everything is a learning experience and you can always get more space marine models

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice
No paint job is permanent as long as Simple Green exists. Learn what you can, move on to the next model.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Max Wilco posted:

Maybe I'll look into that when I get my next paycheck.

Also, I opened up the Chaos Space Marines, and they're actually mostly assembled! The mini that came with the book I bought at GW (the one I just painted) was separated into more parts. With these, it's just the body and the guns.

I'm a little hesitant to start painting them, mostly because I'm worried about messing up the primer again, but also because I'd like to have some more colors to paint with. I tried mixing colors a bit with the Dungeon Painter kit, but it didn't seem mesh well depending on the paint. I got some good grey and dark metal by mixing the white, black, and silver paints. However, I tried to make gold, but mixing the silver with the yellow didn't work (the yellow paint seem sort of runny, even after shaking), and silver mixed with brown didn't really work to make a bronze either.


You won't have much luck trying to mix your own metalics, but you should experiment mixing different shades of your flat colors. try mixing a drop of green into a few drops of yellow on your pallete to get a lighter green, or a drop of red into some white to get pinks.
Until you're trying to color match a whole army you can get away with only using a dozen or so basic colors and a some metalics.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

Booyah- posted:

Both of those rule but I especially love the stormcast. Do have an outline for that marble recipe?

Thanks!

Green Marble
- VMC Pale Green base
- Wash with diluted GW Thraka Green
- Paint blotches and streaks with Thraka Green mixed with a touch of Pale Green
- Shade along one edge of each streak/blotch with more Thraka green to slowly build up the colour.
- Add in Drakenhof Nightshade to the Thraka Green for the final few layers
- Highlight along the darkest edge of the shade with Pale Green mixed with White
- Add additional Pale Green + White streaks

- Edge highlight object with Pale Green + White mixture.

- Gloss coat repeatedly until shiny.

White/Blue Marble
- Basecoat with VMC Dark Sand mixed with VMA Wolf Grey
- Wash diluted Agrax Earthshade into crevices.
- Repeat steps for green marble substituting Agrax Earthshade for Thraka Green.
- +Additional streaks of Drakenhof Nightshade.

Painting marble is closer to 'traditional' watercolour painting compared to our usual fare. The process is quite difficult to describe, but once you start it should be fairly intuitive how each step works.

Zaphod42 posted:

That's a titan, and yes they existed, and some titans are still for sale. You have to get them from forge world and they cost literal thousands of dollars.



I think by the time you get to having that sort of money, the best Games Workshop thing you can buy is some GW stocks (GAW) - Only GBP3050 (1.5 Warlords) per unit! If you bought some stock this time last year, you could sell it to buy a Warlord with your profit. They have been doing astoundingly well.

Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 23, 2018

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Z the IVth posted:

Thanks!

Green Marble
- VMC Pale Green base
- Wash with diluted GW Thraka Green
- Paint blotches and streaks with Thraka Green mixed with a touch of Pale Green
- Shade along one edge of each streak/blotch with more Thraka green to slowly build up the colour.
- Add in Drakenhof Nightshade to the Thraka Green for the final few layers
- Highlight along the darkest edge of the shade with Pale Green mixed with White
- Add additional Pale Green + White streaks

- Edge highlight object with Pale Green + White mixture.

- Gloss coat repeatedly until shiny.

White/Blue Marble
- Basecoat with VMC Dark Sand mixed with VMA Wolf Grey
- Wash diluted Agrax Earthshade into crevices.
- Repeat steps for green marble substituting Agrax Earthshade for Thraka Green.
- +Additional streaks of Drakenhof Nightshade.

Painting marble is closer to 'traditional' watercolour painting compared to our usual fare. The process is quite difficult to describe, but once you start it should be fairly intuitive how each step works.


I think by the time you get to having that sort of money, the best Games Workshop thing you can buy is some GW stocks (GAW) - Only GBP3050 (1.5 Warlords) per unit! If you bought some stock this time last year, you could sell it to buy a Warlord with your profit. They have been doing astoundingly well.

awesome, thanks for sharing this!!

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Max Wilco posted:

Oh my god. I didn't think it actually would be real. :aaa:

I'm guessing they don't sell it anymore, though. (That ad looks pretty old)

The funny thing about this conversation happening right now is they're about to release a new edition of Adeptus Titanicus. The original Adeptus Titanicus was the predecessor to Epic 40k, which is what that ad is for; AT just had rules for Titans, and then Epic expanded that into having very tiny versions of infantry and other vehicles and such. The new AT is just Titans again, although they might expand it into other stuff if it does well.

The image Zaphod42 posted is of a Warlord Titan made at normal 40k scale. There's never been an official Imperator Titan at normal 40k scale because it'd be about five feet tall.

Luminaflare
Sep 23, 2010

No one man
should have all that
POWER BEYOND MEASURE


Max Wilco posted:

Oh my god. I didn't think it actually would be real. :aaa:

I'm guessing they don't sell it anymore, though. (That ad looks pretty old)

Actually there's a new game coming out soonish called adepetus titanicus that's going to be based around titans fighting. Theyre the same units but at a smaller scale than normal 40k units
I doubt they'll be cheap but they won't cost literal thousands to buy. Hell the smallest titan costs $500.

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Max Wilco
Jan 23, 2012

I'm just trying to go through life without looking stupid.

It's not working out too well...


Priming one of the Chaos space marines. Does this look okay, or should I add some more primer? The backpack's a little blurry, but I think it's pretty well covered.

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