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Josh Lyman posted:I’m going to attempt my first oil change tonight on my 2008 Prius. I’ll be in a residential parking garage so flat concrete and around 78*F. I have plenty of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, a Toyota filter, (presumably) OEM crush washers, and a drain pan. I do not have a filter wrench, but I’m hoping a rubber dish washing glove will give me enough grip to remove the old filter. The last oil change was done at a locally owned shop so hopefully they didn’t screw it on too tight. Is it a proper external filter, or one of those drat internal paper filters like my wife's 2012 Camry? That thing needs some stupid cup that goes on a socket wrench to remove, but you can get it at O'Reilly IIRC. If it's a regular external filter, get a cloth filter wrench. The ones with a metal band are decent but inconvenient in tight spaces. Do not buy those stupid loving rubber strap filter wrenches, and avoid the cup things that fit over the end of the filter because you'll end up with a different one for every car you touch.
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Jun 26, 2018 23:51
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Is it possible for normal a/c condensation to leak out slowly over many hours? I drove my 05 3L Duratec Escape this morning and got home around 9:00 AM, I take the dog for a walk at 5:00 pm and there is a little puddle where the a/c usually drips. It's been really humid and it rained in between those times which really confuses me more. It's 97 degrees and the dew point is 60 something at the moment. I mean the coolant is a light gold color so I could be misplacing a coolant leak it but when I dipped a piece of paper in the puddle there was no color to it so I'm guessing it's delayed condensation ejaculation? Just doesn't seem logical.
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Jun 27, 2018 00:05
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Josh Lyman posted:I’m going to attempt my first oil change tonight on my 2008 Prius. I’ll be in a residential parking garage so flat concrete and around 78*F. I have plenty of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, a Toyota filter, (presumably) OEM crush washers, and a drain pan. I do not have a filter wrench, but I’m hoping a rubber dish washing glove will give me enough grip to remove the old filter. The last oil change was done at a locally owned shop so hopefully they didn’t screw it on too tight. Put 3 quarts in and check. A Prius of that generation is the only car I've ever managed to overfill on oil.
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Jun 27, 2018 00:28
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Bajaha posted:STR, I think it's time to break out the BFH and give it some percussive persuasion. And none of that gentle rubber mallet garbage, a proper steel sledge is in order. If possible try wedgeing a chisel between the drum and the backplate? So I had a friend at a shop replace a front wheel bearing today and mentioned my dilemma. He got a massive hammer and spun the drum while smacking the hell out of it. 4 whacks and it popped off. No lip on the drum. Other side went the same. Found what looks like brand new brake shoes, way the gently caress out of adjustment. Adjusted them, put everything back together, and the parking brake is like new. Brake pedal is a lot better too, and it now locks up all 4 evenly. Pretty anticlimactic. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 00:41
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Javid posted:The "gently caress it" oil filter removal method is to stab a screwdriver through it and turn it that way. I've done this and it sheared instead of turning. Ended up having to unravel the filter casing and get oil loving everywhere before it exposed the front plate thing. Thank god I was at a scrapyard and not on my own property.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:08
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Breakfast Feud posted:I've done this and it sheared instead of turning. Ended up having to unravel the filter casing and get oil loving everywhere before it exposed the front plate thing. Thank god I was at a scrapyard and not on my own property. Yeah I've always been hesitant about it because once you've stabbed a screwdriver through, there's no going back. Besides, my cloth filter wrench has always worked. You can attach a fuckin breaker bar if it's being a bitch.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:18
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STR posted:So I had a friend at a shop replace a front wheel bearing today and mentioned my dilemma. He got a massive hammer and spun the drum while smacking the hell out of it. 4 whacks and it popped off. No lip on the drum. Other side went the same. BFH saves the day again 
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Jun 27, 2018 01:30
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Josh Lyman posted:I’m going to attempt my first oil change tonight on my 2008 Prius. I’ll be in a residential parking garage so flat concrete and around 78*F. I have plenty of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, a Toyota filter, (presumably) OEM crush washers, and a drain pan. I do not have a filter wrench, but I’m hoping a rubber dish washing glove will give me enough grip to remove the old filter. The last oil change was done at a locally owned shop so hopefully they didn’t screw it on too tight. For the filter oil the rubber lip of it, you can use the old dirty oil. When you put the new filter on (after you've greased up the rubber lip) just tighten it has hard as you can just using your hands if possible. I always do it hand-tight on everything I've ever owned at it's always perfectly fine. Besides the LiteAce but that's because it's a huge pain in the dick to even get to the filter. thylacine posted:Is it possible for normal a/c condensation to leak out slowly over many hours? I drove my 05 3L Duratec Escape this morning and got home around 9:00 AM, I take the dog for a walk at 5:00 pm and there is a little puddle where the a/c usually drips. It's been really humid and it rained in between those times which really confuses me more. It's 97 degrees and the dew point is 60 something at the moment. Dip your fingers in it and rub them together, that will tell you real easily if it's just water or some sort of coolant. It is normal for me to see a puddle underneath my cars for hours (even overnight) where I am in Florida. Humidity means the puddle can't easily evaporate.
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Jun 27, 2018 01:58
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KakerMix posted:For the filter oil the rubber lip of it, you can use the old dirty oil. When you put the new filter on (after you've greased up the rubber lip) just tighten it has hard as you can just using your hands if possible. I always do it hand-tight on everything I've ever owned at it's always perfectly fine. Besides the LiteAce but that's because it's a huge pain in the dick to even get to the filter.  The first thing I did was to see if I could nudge the filter, which I couldn't, so the oil change has been aborted for tonight. But I'm making a 1300 mile round trip this weekend so I feel like I should probably just buy a filter wrench from Walmart and change my oil before I depart. The drain plug is supposed to be tightened to 28 lb-ft but I don't have a torque wrench. Most people say just tightening with a normal combination wrench will get the job done. Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 02:36 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 02:31
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The main use of a torque wrench in this case is to avoid stripping the plug. You can absolutely hand-tighten it, just don't go full 800 pound gorilla on it. I recommend using just a pinky on the wrench if you don't have a calibrated torque elbow yet.
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Jun 27, 2018 02:43
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Josh Lyman posted:I'm aware of the oil smearing tip, but the OEM Toyota filter comes pre-lubricated. I'm not sure if smearing additional oil would help, hurt, or not really matter: If it's pre-lubed then no worries, you do that in place of it being bare rubber. If you don't lube it then it tends to stick and you have a harder time getting the filter off the next time. If you have a good angle on it I've had good luck with the nylon strap filter 'wrenches' in prying off old filters. Every time I get a new-to-me car from Japan the filters are always a pain in the rear end to get off. You absolutely want to change your oil before you leave on your trip. As Enourmo says too the torque spec is meant to prevent you from loving up your oil pan by gorilla-flexin' the plug on there. Like the filter itself you only need it to not leak, not be ultra-tight.
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Jun 27, 2018 02:51
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I hit the reply button and realized it's very hard to put into words the right feeling of oil plug tightness. Harbor freight has a torque wrench for $20 and 20% off coupons all the time. $16 isn't much when you consider the consequences. On the other hand I've never used one for an oil change, I just get a good idea of "tight, then just a 1/4 turn more" and it's never failed. Now avoiding oil spills on the other hand I am no good at.
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Jun 27, 2018 02:55
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Enourmo posted:The main use of a torque wrench in this case is to avoid stripping the plug. You can absolutely hand-tighten it, just don't go full 800 pound gorilla on it. I recommend using just a pinky on the wrench if you don't have a calibrated torque elbow yet.
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Jun 27, 2018 03:07
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Josh Lyman posted:The first thing I did was to see if I could nudge the filter, which I couldn't, so the oil change has been aborted for tonight. But I'm making a 1300 mile round trip this weekend so I feel like I should probably just buy a filter wrench from Walmart and change my oil before I depart. Get some gloves. Even the pack of 10 from the parts store. You'll still get more leverage - the filter is meant to be hand tight anyway. I generally wear disposable gloves when I do an oil change. So long as I pull the filter before touching anything else with the gloves, I can almost always (~90% of the time) get it off by hand. Sometimes have to use some muscle, but it comes off. It helps if you can get both hands on it. Just remember the new one doesn't need to be hulked on (spin it on until it stops, then add half to a full turn), and check to make sure the gasket comes off with the old one. Josh Lyman posted:Would it make sense to put a socket on the bolt and hand tighten the socket itself or should I stick with the wrench? I spin the drain plug back in with a socket, then throw a ratchet on it and give it a quarter turn. If you're using a crush washer instead of plastic or an o-ring, make it a half turn.
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Jun 27, 2018 03:10
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A box of latex gloves is like $5 at Harbor Freight. They tear super easy, but who cares? It's a box of 100.
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Jun 27, 2018 04:56
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I also like to have my magnet-on-a-stick tool handy for when I inevitably gently caress up and drop the drain plug in the oil drain pan during removal.
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Jun 27, 2018 05:34
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"let the plug fall into the pan" was the express wording of the directions I followed the one time I tried changing my own. What is the name of this part and where can I get new ones?  4/4 of them on my van just come loose and let the window slam shut at the first bump while driving. "Van side window latch" and variants got me nowhere with Google.
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Jun 27, 2018 05:49
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I think the correct term is "Window Latch Escutcheon", "pop out window latch" also turns up results. I'm finding plenty of them for older Dodge vans, but nothing for yours.  I did find louvers for your back windows, though...  My high school had a slightly later model (94? first year of the newer body style) Dodge passenger van for single-class field trips, and I remember those things letting the windows slam shut even when the van was new. slothrop posted:I also like to have my magnet-on-a-stick tool handy for when I inevitably gently caress up and drop the drain plug in the oil drain pan during removal. That's one reason I wear gloves... I can just reach in to the oil and grab the plug.  (... assuming the engine cooled a bit before I started changing it) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:18 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 06:15
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gently caress. I'm legit considering fabricating a replacement with a greater range of motion so I can prop these windows open more than an inch and a half if I want to for more airflow.
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Jun 27, 2018 06:29
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Get some scrap wood, cut it so that it's a tight fit with the window open, prop it open immediately next to the latch?
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Jun 27, 2018 07:47
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I don't wear gloves because all of my plugs have a flared base. Wait.
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Jun 27, 2018 07:53
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I don't think those are oil drain plugs you're dealing with...  Though you can certainly check someone's oil via that route.
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Jun 27, 2018 08:13
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Godholio posted:A box of latex gloves is like $5 at Harbor Freight. They tear super easy, but who cares? It's a box of 100. Venom gloves are more expensive, but they're great if you really don't want them to tear and get grime all over your hands.
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Jun 27, 2018 12:57
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Nitrile gloves or bust. I like the orange ones with the little dimples.
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Jun 27, 2018 14:29
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Dennis McClaren posted:2006 Dodge Durango SLT 4.7L v8 You had the bad luck to ask some questions in the middle of van-of-pain chat; I haven't looked in this thread for a few weeks. Anyway, did you replace your IAC valve? That's one of the many, many things - I know this because replacing my IAC valve was instrumental in solving my issue. I had previously cleaned my IAC valve but that wasn't enough, it needed replacing. There was also a sensor in the air intake, just behind the filter, that had worked partly out of its socket; possibly this was contributing to my bad idle. In the journey of my bad idle, I started with a bad battery, moved to sensor-land and the world of fuses and relays, then spent some time on the intake before giving up and getting a shop to diagnose and fix it - which was the IAC valve. Nothing else to do with engine idle (air, spark, fuel, vacuum, sensors and valves for those) was changed at the time and my Ranger hasn't stalled in idle or had similar problems since then. So you can do it one piece at a time, sure. Dennis McClaren posted:Could you technically put a tow hitch on any vehicle? Last month I yanked a 2-ton trailer 400 km without any drama and my Ranger's capacity is around 3000 lbs depending on how much crap I have in the truck in addition to the weight of the trailer. I was overloaded, so I'm not going to recommend doing it that way, but as long as you're not doing something else dumb on top of the heavy trailer (stuff on the outside, tow vehicle in poor condition, poo poo tires, truly idiotic driver, etc.) you can haul a decent amount.
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Jun 27, 2018 15:55
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ExecuDork posted:In my explorations of my own 1997 Ranger's kinda-similar issue, I learned that there are many, many things that can cause an engine to just go to sleep at idle. Thanks! And crazy timing, I just got back from dropping the truck off at my mechanic. I read online that these Dodge's have a hydrolock problem where when it rains, the water can seep right into the plugs/intake etc. There are a lot of videos online of it happening, and since it was raining when this was occuring, I figured to just give it awhile. It drove fine for a few days, then all the same problems came back. I had bought the IACV, the TPS, and some throttle cleaner - but I already returned them all after the problem went away! After the same problems started again yesterday - I said gently caress it and just took it to my mechanic. I can read online articles all day that tell me what *might* be happening - but the truth is I'm not a fkn mechanic with 20 years of experience like he is. So my instinct was to just take it to my guy and have him sort it out. I'm currently waiting on his call back right now after the diagnostic, to see what he thinks is up. I agree with you though, I should have just replaced IACV, TPS, cleaned, and then seen how things went. All stuff I could have done on my own! But really, I feel like the best thing to do at this point is just see what he has to say. Worse case if it's too expensive a fix, I'll just do all that stuff over again on my own and see what develops.
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Jun 27, 2018 16:25
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Just got the call back from my mechanic. I was very surprised and amused to hear him say - "I checked everything out, went over your whole powertrain, ran the OBD, and did a full diagnostic; and I couldn't find anything wrong!" I laughed and thought, well that's kind of good news. So I think my next step is to just do the Idle Air Control Valve, the Throttle Position Sensor, and clean the throttle body when I'm in there. Should that fail, I guess the spark plugs next, and finally the 02 sensor, I don't know. *Edit* Well, it looks like I didn't get the full story over the phone. When I went to pick it up just now, he showed me the problems he addressed. There was an evap leak, and the gas cap needed to be replaced. Sure enough, the old one was a worn out piece of waste. There was some air intake vacuum line/hose that had a crack in it. He showed me which one it was, and he repaired it. The negative battery terminal was loose, and the terminal post was too high or low or something. Anyway he fixed it with a nut on top and its tight now. And finally but most importantly, the code I've been showing is the exhaust manifold and header bolts. One bolt is totally off, and the others are all poo poo. Not surprising, as the 4.7L v8 does this a lot apparently, and I just had him replace the OTHER side's exhaust manifold a few months ago because it had the same problems after years of use. Overall though, the truck is starting, driving, and idling just fine now. Maybe those small fixes he caught were enough to amend the occasional stalling issue. The manifold and repair/replace is not an emergency or anything, so I can save up and get the parts to bring it in to be done. Him and I both are amazed that a Durango with 230k drives as smooth and handles as well as this one. It was really well maintained before I bought it apparently. Dennis McClaren fucked around with this message at 18:10 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 17:10
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Alright I'm going to check out an '08 lexus Ls460 tonight - anything i should watch out for?
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Jun 27, 2018 18:30
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Dennis McClaren posted:*Edit* Well, it looks like I didn't get the full story over the phone. When I went to pick it up just now, he showed me the problems he addressed.
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Jun 27, 2018 20:23
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Dennis McClaren posted:There was some air intake vacuum line/hose that had a crack in it. He showed me which one it was, and he repaired it. This is at least a contributing factor, along with the loose negative cable. Loose battery cables can cause all sorts of fuckery that leave you feeling like the car is possessed. If it's still stalling, go ahead and slap a new IACV on it. Voltage posted:Alright I'm going to check out an '08 lexus Ls460 tonight - anything i should watch out for? Ben Gay baked into the interior. I'd ask about maintenance history, but they're tanks, and their target demographic tends to be pretty obsessive with maintenance.
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Jun 27, 2018 22:13
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ExecuDork posted:Based on my experience, each of those things - gas cap, vacuum lines, battery & battery terminals, exhaust manifold - can cause a weird die-when-idling-sometimes issue, and you can't figure out which one *might* be causing the problem on which day. You just identify a possibility, fix it, then wait to see if the problem happens again. STR posted:This is at least a contributing factor, along with the loose negative cable. Loose battery cables can cause all sorts of fuckery that leave you feeling like the car is possessed. If it's still stalling, go ahead and slap a new IACV on it. Thanks for confirming what I thought might be going on. It's such a relief to finally (sort of) understand cars and trucks now that I'm 30. This thread, all of A.I., and having a truck that I can work on that's big and forgiving has really helped my confidence. Also, this channel "Engineering Explained" https://www.youtube.com/user/EngineeringExplained did SO SO much for my general auto maintenance and engineering knowledge. I really recommend checking it out for any other A.I. newbs out there like me.
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Jun 28, 2018 00:46
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Dennis McClaren posted:It's such a relief to finally (sort of) understand cars and trucks now that I'm 30. This thread, all of A.I., and having a truck that I can work on that's big and forgiving has really helped my confidence. This is accurate for me as well. Pounding on my van with this thread's help over the last three months has been a very educational experience.
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Jun 28, 2018 00:53
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Dennis McClaren posted:Thanks for confirming what I thought might be going on. Does yours have the PCV elbows at the very back of the heads? The whole hose assembly is likely very brittle by now at best, if not completely rotten. Mine were toast. The weird thing is that at least the WJ, and I'm guessing yours as well, is a speed density setup. It shouldn't be nearly as picky about vacuum leaks as it actually is.
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Jun 28, 2018 01:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does yours have the PCV elbows at the very back of the heads? The whole hose assembly is likely very brittle by now at best, if not completely rotten. Mine were toast. That's exactly what he showed me, and what was cracked. You got it! Going to have to get all those hoses sorted soon. Drove the truck the rest of the afternoon without any issues at all.
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Jun 28, 2018 01:53
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I'm renting a car for a trip. I got the premium class or whatever. Apparently, if I have their app, I can choose my vehicle. Looks like my choices are: Benz E-Class Volvo S90 Caddy CTS Jaguar XF Which of these would be the most fun for driving along the California coast? I don't know poo poo about cars but I'm thinking E-Class?
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Jun 28, 2018 02:09
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Volvo. Safety is always fun.
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Jun 28, 2018 02:10
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Well my thoughts are safety is boring, GM cars are bad (are they still bad?). MB will be comfortable but not fast and agile, and Jag could be fast, agile, and comfortable but not reliable (are british cars still jokes?) but then again it's not my car so now that I type it out... Jag?
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Jun 28, 2018 02:13
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E class for sure.
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Jun 28, 2018 02:18
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E class or jag - although the new s90 has one of the nicest interiors I've ever sat in Jag will probably be the most fun. What rental agency is this? Every one ive used never lets me pick.
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Jun 28, 2018 02:50
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It's Sixt. I haven't used them before, but in my experience they are all garbage so what's another garbage company?
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Jun 28, 2018 02:56
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