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extravadanza posted:So, there's no upper cabinets in that kitchen? Where will all the stuff go??? What, like plates? The restaurant keeps them, obviously.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 15:13 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 15:11 |
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peanut posted:Do you have a picture of this process? Does the cost involve replacing some siding? Basically this, but with galvanized sheet metal instead of mesh. Cost is around 2k, it goes around the entire house, and they have to replace a metal skirt/cut into foam board in a couple of places. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYrPG1073zk
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 15:32 |
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jerry seinfel posted:So anyway here's some more I swear, this is the exact same as every single flipped house we glanced at online (I say glance because as soon as we got past the exterior and saw the telltale gray walls, polished floors, gaping open floor plan, and completely incongruous new kitchen, we moved onto the next listing because we were not interested in buying a flip). I mean, other than the out-of-place HGTV trend kitchens, they were all pleasant-looking houses that would appeal to lots of people, so I get why flippers make those choices. We looked at a VERY cool house that had previously been flipped. It was an old Edwardian-style American foursquare with all original stained glass and gorgeous tiger oak woodwork (including pocket doors) that had all been amazingly restored. And then we got to the kitchen... which was all stark white and super modern. In and of itself, it was lovely and had a highly functional galley layout and plenty of counters and cabinets, but dear god it just did not work in that house. The redeeming factor was that it was a closed kitchen so we could have closed the doors and just not looked at it while enjoying the rest of the house. The reasons we did not buy this house, despite the sore thumb kitchen, were because it was in the wrong municipality (bad schools and high taxes) and also hilariously overpriced, even with the seller (who'd bought it from the flipper and got swindled) selling it at a loss. Also it was a flip. My colleague and his wife recently bought a flipped house in a hot neighborhood because they wanted to be said hot neighborhood and they wanted a move-in ready house that was already fixed and they didn't have to do work on. No flip house horror stories yet (their flipper has a good reputation), but now they're tired of all the cheap finishes and want to replace them, so they're doing work on the house anyway.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 19:23 |
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I kinda like that kitchen look but not in that layout and not in that house.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 19:28 |
I mainly love that the fridge door hits the kitchen stairs if you open it 90 degrees
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 19:33 |
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I have a vertical side-by-side (is that the right term?) refrigerator and the freezer door doesn't open even 90 degrees because the handle that goes the length of the fridge runs into a big windowsill. The only problem it causes is that I can't remove the drawers in it for cleaning. I barely use the freezer, though, so I'll eventually replace the fridge, as half my fridge is basically wasted space, so I let it slide. You get used to it.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 20:01 |
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I bought a chest freezer a couple of years ago and it's slowly filling up with various strata of stuff that I don't even know what it is anymore.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 20:26 |
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Love the microwave space on top of that stupid fridge. It's like an RV kitchen.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 23:22 |
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baquerd posted:Basically this, but with galvanized sheet metal instead of mesh. Cost is around 2k, it goes around the entire house, and they have to replace a metal skirt/cut into foam board in a couple of places. 2k sounds about right Not having mice is awesome.
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 23:24 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:I bought a chest freezer a couple of years ago and it's slowly filling up with various strata of stuff that I don't even know what it is anymore. Milk crates. One for meat, one for veggies, etc. I can't imagine using a chest freezer without them.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 13:45 |
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Slugworth posted:Milk crates. One for meat, one for veggies, etc. I can't imagine using a chest freezer without them. Not a bad idea. It did come with some small baskets for the top. But in reality for me it would be one for food I'm pretending I'll eventually eat, one for food I'll actually eat.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 13:48 |
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I enjoyed emptying my mother-in-law's freezer, fridge, cabinets and drawers while she's in the hospital. Omg I haven't even looked at the stash of open soy sauce and vinegar bottles under the sink yet…
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 14:24 |
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"Let's see if any of these vegetarian foods are any good" was my last foray, now buried right at the bottom of the pile.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 14:28 |
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jerry seinfel posted:I'n trying so hard to convince him not to buy it. So so hard. His wife loves the hideous kitchen for some reason though. Talk your friend into hiring a home inspector. Find one with a good reputation that's been working for at least 10 years. 'cause this poo poo? This is just what you're seeing. Guaranteed there is way more and a good home inspector will find most of it just by walking around and looking. You know; since they won't listen to you, maybe they'll listen to a professional. Also that kitchen is so narrow, the first time either of them asks for help with something there's going to be a murder.
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# ? Aug 25, 2018 05:06 |
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This is more landscaping than home but it seems like the best place to ask for general advice. My home gym is in the garage, but to get to it, I have to go across my lawn, around a tree, down some steps, across a little muddy section, through a rickety gate. It's just started raining over here in the UK and if last winter was anything to go by, the grass will be a waterlogged mess, and that mud at the end will be a quarter of an inch thick. Ducking past the tree branches and zig-zagging across weeds there is not giving me happy feelings either. The gate and fence itself will need to be replaced at some point (but I'd rather not do it now if I can get away with it), and that bottom section has a gradient away towards the gate. I've never attempted any kind of landscaping like this - any thoughts or ideas? My idea of lopping off most of the tree and putting stepping stones in seems a little childish...
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 13:14 |
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Southern Heel posted:to get to it, I have to go across my lawn, around a tree, down some steps, across a little muddy section, through a rickety gate. C.S. Lewis alt account spotted. Southern Heel posted:I've never attempted any kind of landscaping like this - any thoughts or ideas? My idea of lopping off most of the tree and putting stepping stones in seems a little childish... How about a nice bordered gravel path flush with the grass, and same gravel used to cover the muddy bit in front of the gate? You're gonna have to prune some tree branches though, if they're in your way. I hear there is an art to doing it without killing the tree but that's beyond my ken.
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 13:18 |
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Looks like I can prune from November onwards. Gravel is possible but I have a greyhound who likes to sprint around like a nutter so that's probably a 'no' - am I stuck with paving or woodchip, in that case?
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 14:14 |
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Big river stones! And just fill in everything below the steps with concrete. Add a door to that garage wall?
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 14:43 |
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peanut posted:Big river stones! And just fill in everything below the steps with concrete. Can you link an example for the kind of stones? The garage you can see there is my neighbours, mine is to the left of the trees. Good point about just filling the very bottom with concrete - it's already on a slight decline. I think I'd have to keep the left hand side open, because there's an apple tree there I'd rather not kill (or have smash up the slab over time).
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 14:55 |
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I was gonna say GIS 踏み石 but this page frikkin has it all, these guys are COBBLESTONE GODS http://sinjyu.jp/?eid=32 And here's all their different landscaping categories!!! http://sinjyu.jp/?cid=8
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 15:25 |
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I'm personally against any kind of stepping stone because they will become overgrown and slippery and get mud on them anyway.
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 15:47 |
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Why are the red and brown fences angled? Is that the end of your buildable area or could you make the fence parallel to the back of the garage?
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 21:22 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:
pruning is pretty easy with a grasp of the basics, here's pruning a crabapple tree, but the general theory holds for any tree really. Cut at splits, don't cut too close to the branch collar. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09HZ7dp96H4
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 22:31 |
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Southern Heel posted:Looks like I can prune from November onwards. Gravel is possible but I have a greyhound who likes to sprint around like a nutter so that's probably a 'no' - am I stuck with paving or woodchip, in that case? Do you have decomposed granite over there? Compacted, stabilized DG makes great paths and it's still permeable so it won't cause drainage issues like concrete would.
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 22:33 |
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Qwijib0 posted:Do you have decomposed granite over there? Compacted, stabilized DG makes great paths and it's still permeable so it won't cause drainage issues like concrete would. Looks to be quite rare here, or goes by another name.
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 22:46 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:Looks to be quite rare here, or goes by another name. based on a cursory look, might be called gravel chippings, or "self-binding" gravel.-- it's essentially a 1/4" minus mix meaning it also contains the fine dust from the processing to get it to 1/4" or smaller size. Found a couple references to 0-10mm which would be about the same with a few larger components.
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# ? Aug 26, 2018 23:13 |
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how about something like these? https://deavita.net/grass-pavers-driveway-patio-pavers.html
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 01:40 |
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dyne posted:how about something like these? We have a large area of similar at work and it's horrible to walk on, I would avoid at all costs.
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 07:14 |
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cakesmith handyman posted:We have a large area of similar at work and it's horrible to walk on, I would avoid at all costs. Also how do you cut it without loving up your blades?
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 07:54 |
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The reason there's that weird diagonal fence is for human access to the garage (please ignore the trash, the garage is being renovated so everything's cleared out and overflowing from anywhere I can store things: For the rear section, it's on a gradient - won't gravel just slide down and out onto the access road? I think unless there's a really compelling reason I would just be inclined to clear the foliage on the left (facing towards the fence from inside) and put down woodchip on membrane (sometimes the dog does his business down this end), and then pavers surrounded by gravel between the gate and the steps? For the main garden area, a similar gravel + paver solution would work too (assuming the pavers were textured or rough and more non-slip than others), right? I'm wary about spending LOADS of money - especially since that retaining wall looks like poo poo and I need to replace the fence in the next year or two too. Jaded Burnout posted:Also how do you cut it without loving up your blades? I gather the surface of the concrete is at roughly the level of the dirt in your garden, so something like a flymo just goes right over the top?
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 11:59 |
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Southern Heel posted:The reason there's that weird diagonal fence is for human access to the garage (please ignore the trash, the garage is being renovated so everything's cleared out and overflowing from anywhere I can store things: Here in Arizona DG (or, as it's probably called there, gravel chippings) is used all over for paths and driveways at various slopes. It holds together and drains well during our monsoons when we get half an inch of rain in 15 minutes so I think it would be fit for purpose if gravel-esque is the look you'd like to go with. Once compacted, it is quite stable. Here's a pretty thorough article with way too much bolding but you get the idea. http://technisoil.com/blog/how-to-build-natural-dg-pathways-like-a-pro-and-how-to-avoid-disaster/
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 15:28 |
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Qwijib0 posted:based on a cursory look, might be called gravel chippings, or "self-binding" gravel.-- it's essentially a 1/4" minus mix meaning it also contains the fine dust from the processing to get it to 1/4" or smaller size. Found a couple references to 0-10mm which would be about the same with a few larger components. Our equivalent would probably be This stuff- MOT/DOT Type 1 , which is crushed Granite/Limestone that goes from 40mm diameter down to dust. If you compact it then it binds and makes a good base. Southern Heel posted:The reason there's that weird diagonal fence is for human access to the garage (please ignore the trash, the garage is being renovated so everything's cleared out and overflowing from anywhere I can store things: I would probably just use gravel on top of a weed proof membrane below your steps. Use a coarse decorative gravel rather than a round one and it wont slide down the slope too quickly. My sloped garden was entirely gravelled (over a membrane) when I moved in and I walked over it every day and even parked on it. The membrane slipped a bit after parking on it for a year or so and a bit of gravel escapes down to the bottom. If you want to walk over it a lot then woodchip will still get your feet dirty where gravel wont. I guess the dog will be fine making GBS threads on gravel too (cats poo poo on mine quite happily!) To get across the lawn you could just drop some slabs in to make a path. Stepping stones wont overgrow if you do them level with the base of the grass such that you can just mow over them and they are less slippery and dirty than the grass and more importantly are quick and easy to do. You could just use 2ft/60cm square slabs direct onto the mud after cutting the turf out if you wanted to get this done in one day before Autumn/Winter hits. Alternatively you could dig out a path. Shutter the edges then either fill it with aggregate+ gravel or even concrete it. Would look nicer but will take more effort.
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 17:40 |
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I'm looking to start finishing my basement this fall and I want to do as much of it myself as I can. So first step is framing and insulation. Whats the best way to handle the insulation thats already there? I have a townhouse so the 2 outside walls are covered in this style insulation. (ignore the water marks, old pic and that issues been taken care of) Do I take all that down and put in new insulation or do I build the frame an inch from the wall and leave that as is? It seems like I should remove it and insulate all the way to the floor but I figured Id ask. I also want to insulate the other 2 walls that touch my neighbors basements and I want to add some sound proofing where possible. Any tips there? A better insulation? Thicker drywall? Any general tips for finishing the basement would be swell as well. Or maybe a good book I can read.
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 22:36 |
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keep it down up there! posted:I'm looking to start finishing my basement this fall and I want to do as much of it myself as I can. So first step is framing and insulation. If you need the space, then go for it. But, oh man, I’m so leery of finished basements. I worry too much about what is lurking beneath those nice finished walls. Case in point, I just tore a wall off my in-laws basement where water had started to come in to find a motherfucking toad looking at me from the other side like dude gtfo my house.
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# ? Aug 27, 2018 23:55 |
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Back at 'er now that we're home. Lath and plaster was removed, which exposed the 2x4 wall studs. The entire room was gutted so I won't be patching drywall to plaster or anything like that. However, because of the lath being removed and the thickness of the plaster, there door jambs and window casing extend about 1.2" past the studs. Is there a better alternative than shimming every stud to only leave a .5" gap after drywall? Does shimming even matter? This is my first time drywalling but it's a square laundry room that I thought would be good practice. just another fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Aug 29, 2018 |
# ? Aug 29, 2018 21:30 |
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Decimal inches are throwing me off, but it sounds like you’d need to “shim” 3/4” which sounds like more than I’d want to do. Actual drywall shims are only like 1/16” and really just for smoothing out stud variations. You’d need a fat stack and some super long screws. In a pinch you can use strips of scrap drywall to bridge larger gaps, but I wouldn’t want to do entire walls that way. What about using a flush-cut blade in an oscillating saw to trim your casings after the drywall is hung?
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# ? Aug 29, 2018 22:09 |
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I was thinking that, or just building up the casing. Doesn't have to be pretty.
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# ? Aug 29, 2018 22:36 |
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Just spitballing here (since I've never tried it), but what about using actual lath installed vertically against the studs as a shim? You'd still need decently long screws but not stupendously so and it'd bump the wall depth out considerably more than actual drywall shims.
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# ? Aug 29, 2018 23:43 |
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Hey we're building a house and need to pick out a refrigerator and stove. Are there good brands of appliances these days or are they all 'planned obsolescence'? Is one brand easier to order replacement parts for than another? Our microwave and dishwasher are black so we're either going to to black or stainless steel for the fridge and stove.
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# ? Aug 30, 2018 12:41 |
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# ? May 25, 2024 15:11 |
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Amana or Whirlpool fridge. Don't get anything in the door like ice or water dispensers, those are the parts that most commonly result in service calls.
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# ? Aug 30, 2018 13:07 |