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I'm trying to secure a piece of Ikea furniture to a wall so it won't fall over. I got a stud finder (this one), and found some studs. What I'm wondering about is this live wire sensor it has. It says it can detect live wires, and I was able to get it to go off near an outlet. Still, I am curious as to how reliable that all is. If I get a stud with no wires and carefully check around it, am I good to go?
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Sep 5, 2018 21:08
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Magnetic North posted:I'm trying to secure a piece of Ikea furniture to a wall so it won't fall over. I got a stud finder (this one), and found some studs. What I'm wondering about is this live wire sensor it has. It says it can detect live wires, and I was able to get it to go off near an outlet. Still, I am curious as to how reliable that all is. If I get a stud with no wires and carefully check around it, am I good to go? Are you afraid of there being a wire through the stud? There’s not going to be one between the stud and the wallboard.
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Sep 5, 2018 22:50
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also, you can feel safer if you aren't drilling at the height you would expect to find wires moving horizontally, i.e. the height of electrical outlets.
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Sep 6, 2018 00:06
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BigFactory posted:Are you afraid of there being a wire through the stud? There’s not going to be one between the stud and the wallboard. I didn't even think about that. Just went back and checked and the one light switch I tried it on is the only one where it sees a stud and electricty so I think that one is just weird and I confused myself.
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Sep 6, 2018 00:27
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Edit: wrong thread
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Sep 6, 2018 13:19
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Speaking of securing Ikea furniture to walls. If there's no stud a couple of toggle bolts will do, right?
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Sep 6, 2018 13:25
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extravadanza posted:Speaking of securing Ikea furniture to walls. If there's no stud a couple of toggle bolts will do, right? I'd be more comfortable in a stud. I'm not an engineer and properly sizing a drywall toggle for the weight-load of the object is going to require some math. It's not just the weight of the furniture, but the weight of the child, pet, or drunk adult, plus any shock-load. It can be done, but it's a lot easier to over-engineer into structure.
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Sep 6, 2018 14:48
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I'm an engineer and I feel like it should be OK for my application, but I also realize I'm wrong all the drat time. I'm looking to fasten 8' high ikea PAX cabinets to a wall and I've got these badboys http://www.toggler.com/pdf/toggle.pdf. I've got studs on 24" spacing (usually) with plaster and lathe walls. I'm thinking that sinking 2 of these into the wall about 7' high should be enough.
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Sep 6, 2018 15:24
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adorai posted:not very. I am building a chilled fermentation chamber for home brewing that will be roughly 9 cubic feet and chilled with a 12v peltier cooler. It could probably just be a cardboard box since I only need to keep it about 10 degrees below ambient. i have no idea how to calculate my needs, but noticed that two 1" sheets are cheaper than a single 2" sheet. Would it be easier to just get a chest freezer and a temperature controller?
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Sep 6, 2018 16:07
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I put down self-leveling concrete in my basement, and now there are some places where the drywall is in contact with concrete flooring. My instinct is that I need to trim out a half inch of the drywall from the bottom so that moisture can't wick up, but it sounds like an annoying task I wouldn't mind skipping. Thoughts?
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Sep 6, 2018 16:49
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Hopefully it's ok if I crosspost this from the house chat thread. Anyone know exactly what this is covering the somewhat out of place brickwork on my house? I'm interested in seeing what it would take to remove it and restore the brick. 
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Sep 6, 2018 23:06
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I'm not an expert, but that looks to me like plaster or adhesive, like maybe someone covered over the brick with some other kind of siding at one point.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:15
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Hmm, it's definitely decorative, I think. Like a glaze of some sort. It looks pretty purposeful to soften the color of the bricks. Here it is in context.  Edit: Maybe whitewash or limewash? mutata fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 23:19
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extravadanza posted:Speaking of securing Ikea furniture to walls. If there's no stud a couple of toggle bolts will do, right? 1/4 inch toggle bolts in 1/2 inch drywall can hold like 300 pounds, so it'll be plenty for tipping stuff in most cases.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:21
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eddiewalker posted:I put down self-leveling concrete in my basement, and now there are some places where the drywall is in contact with concrete flooring. Yes, you should trim the drywall. Easier to trim it then have to tear out moldy drywall later!
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Sep 6, 2018 23:36
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glynnenstein posted:1/4 inch toggle bolts in 1/2 inch drywall can hold like 300 pounds, so it'll be plenty for tipping stuff in most cases.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:28
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i like nice words
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extravadanza posted:I'm an engineer and I feel like it should be OK for my application, but I also realize I'm wrong all the drat time. On the other hand, the whole purpose of securing shelves is to prevent kids from getting crushed, ,so why not simply screw a 2x4 into two studs and then attach the cabinet to the brace?
Anne Whateley posted:Is there somewhere to math this stuff, like the sagulator does for shelves? I have a bunch of heavy stuff I want to hang in ancient plaster (and studfinders don't work because the whole thing was done with chickenwire or something).
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Sep 7, 2018 02:48
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I have a coax cable that delivers internet to my house. There is currently a coax outlet in the office room of the house, but not in the bedroom. I have found the coax cable in the attic where it runs above the office, and was wondering if I could cut the coax cable, add these coax connectors to each end of the the cut cable, split the signal using a splitter like this, and then add a new run of coax cable to the bedroom using another piece of coax cable like this?
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Sep 7, 2018 03:35
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Anne Whateley posted:Is there somewhere to math this stuff, like the sagulator does for shelves? I have a bunch of heavy stuff I want to hang in ancient plaster (and studfinders don't work because the whole thing was done with chickenwire or something). Measure off in sixteen-inch increments from receptacles, and window and door openings. My house is all plaster.
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Sep 7, 2018 03:52
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Jose Cuervo posted:I have a coax cable that delivers internet to my house. There is currently a coax outlet in the office room of the house, but not in the bedroom. I have found the coax cable in the attic where it runs above the office, and was wondering if I could cut the coax cable, add these coax connectors to each end of the the cut cable, split the signal using a splitter like this, and then add a new run of coax cable to the bedroom using another piece of coax cable like this? Without clicking anything the answer is probably. I would check with your cable company to get a signal reading (in dbm) and snr. Your cable boxes know that information. If the things you are looking at don't require crimping I would think again. Catv is super finicky. Make sure the splitter you are using is rated for the signal you are putting through it, again ask the cable company for what to use. If there is a physical storefront near you go in and ask to see one. Sometimes if they are feeling nice they will just give you one as it prevents problems. After you install it, get another reading, then when you hook it up to your device get yet another reading. Google your modem brand, there might be a page that just shows it to you. If you lose too much signal (dbm) or spike the noise (snr) you're hosed. I hate coaxial.
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Sep 7, 2018 03:53
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PainterofCrap posted:Measure off in sixteen-inch increments from receptacles, and window and door openings. My house is all plaster.  tetrapyloctomy posted:Our front hallway is like this. The whole thing lights up.with a studfinder. Plaster on lath is thick, and the pullout resistance of a Toggler in it is going to be high. If you don't need things to be centered, etc., you often can still figure out where studs are by knocking on the wall a bit. If you do use Togglers, by the way, drill a small pilot hold first. That way if you don't hit wall cavity in about an inch or so you know you're in a stud and can place a regular screw. It sucks to drill a 1/2" hole in a wall and realize your chosen hanger isn't going to work! I have a picture hung in my living room where that happened -- I glued a 1/2" piece of dowel rod into the cavity I made.
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Sep 7, 2018 04:58
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Yea, I've got mostly 24" spacing in my plaster wall house. I think you might have trouble finding reliable resources about the holding strength of anything in plaster because the condition of old plaster walls can vary so greatly.
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Sep 7, 2018 13:01
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extravadanza posted:Yea, I've got mostly 24" spacing in my plaster wall house. I think you might have trouble finding reliable resources about the holding strength of anything in plaster because the condition of old plaster walls can vary so greatly. Not just the condition, the contents. Over the years many different materials have been used to try to strengthen plaster. Depending on age and location your wall might have horse-hair, sea-shells, Asbestos, Straw or other plant matter, Sand, or even straight up dirt. With drywall at least you're dealing with a fairly consistent material.
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Sep 7, 2018 14:56
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I'm looking for some information on rehabbing old windows. These are aluminum single pane double hung windows from the early 80s. I should replace them but they are 6x10 x2 and I need to put that money elsewhere in the house. Right now, they won't open all the way or at all. If I do get them open they won't close properly and end up crooked in the sash. They really don't need to be opened that often as this is a vacation cabin but I would like to get them working semi properly until I can replace them. Any advice is appreciated.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:35
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Not an expert, but it sounds like your house has settled and the window jam is twisted / or crooked, so your sashes are binding trying to slide around on rails that are too close together or not parallel. I think the only way to fix something like that would be to take the casings off and re-shimming the window into the wall.
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Sep 7, 2018 21:56
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My mother is making things for her sister and niece of boards from her gandma's/my cousin's great-gandma's house (a serving tray and a lazy susan). I told her to wear my P100 respirator when sanding the paint off because it's probably lead-based, and she grew up in the '50s and has plenty lead poisoning already from leaded gas. "Surely they repainted it in the last 20 years." well, yes, the last 20 years before Mawmaw died in 1990, and did they remove the old paint first?
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Sep 7, 2018 23:02
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Chillbro Baggins posted:My mother is making things for her sister and niece of boards from her gandma's/my cousin's great-gandma's house (a serving tray and a lazy susan). I told her to wear my P100 respirator when sanding the paint off because it's probably lead-based, and she grew up in the '50s and has plenty lead poisoning already from leaded gas. "Surely they repainted it in the last 20 years." well, yes, the last 20 years before Mawmaw died in 1990, and did they remove the old paint first?
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Sep 8, 2018 00:50
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I used Citristrip on some stuff last weekend and it was really rewarding to scrape up all the goop.
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Sep 8, 2018 00:55
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overboard posted:Has she considered a chemical stripper that would keep everything nice and goopy? A respirator is one thing but good luck cleaning lead dust from all your tools/clothes/your garage. I wouldn’t even try it outdoors. But it'll look so much better and antique if she just varnishes over what's left of the original paint after scraping off the flaky bits and sanding it. Apparently "not a dumbass", like the baldnass gene, skips a generstion. Edit: I did my part in scraping off the old paint with my axe-hammer, and told her to wear the gas mask when sanding it. Chillbro Baggins fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 01:18
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What is this shape of wood called?  edit - Its stucco moulding. FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Sep 8, 2018 |
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Sep 8, 2018 22:25
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FogHelmut posted:What is this shape of wood called? Bad shape
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Sep 9, 2018 00:20
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FogHelmut posted:What is this shape of wood called? That second one's bead moulding
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Sep 9, 2018 03:37
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FogHelmut posted:What is this shape of wood called? If you google "moulding shapes" and look at the images, you can find a number of diagrams that organize moulding by geometry, as well as placement on the wall.
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Sep 9, 2018 14:36
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mutata posted:Hopefully it's ok if I crosspost this from the house chat thread. Anyone know exactly what this is covering the somewhat out of place brickwork on my house? I'm interested in seeing what it would take to remove it and restore the brick. Have you tried just hitting a test patch with a pressure washer?
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Sep 9, 2018 18:16
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mutata posted:Hmm, it's definitely decorative, I think. Like a glaze of some sort. It looks pretty purposeful to soften the color of the bricks.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:41
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Super 3 posted:Have you tried just hitting a test patch with a pressure washer? I haven't, as I don't have access to one. I think this Flipperwaldt posted:It looks like a thing that was applied to the brick as opposed to the wall. Manufactured like that. is probably right though.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:55
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Yeah I found it, "stucco moulding" is the shape.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:10
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So, 5 weeks away from moving into our house and I'm getting fully into prep mode. The whole house is nicely finished, except the landing on the top floor (which coincidentally wasn't shown in the estate agent pictures  ). It's not a big deal but I'd like to do something to make it a bit prettier. See images below.This is directly under the roof. Questions: 1) Can I paint directly onto that wood, if I just want to make it white? 2) If that's the wrong question, what's the best way to make the area nice? 3) Same question but for the bare concrete. I may pursue sorting out/hiding that mess of pipework at some point later (which is variously: extractor fans from bathroom, ducted heating system, exhaust from gas stove on ground level, exhaust from water heater). In the Netherlands if that makes a difference  
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Sep 9, 2018 21:04
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Paint is going to highlight any texture underneath it, if that plywood is sanded smooth it may come out OK looking, but if it's rough exterior grade sheathing like they use in the US it will look pretty bad. If it's pretty smooth already you can get it looking even better by caulking or mudding the screw holes & panel seams first, and sanding them smooth with the rest of the surface before painting. For concrete just make sure to get the right kind of paint, since it's all above grade you probably don't have to worry about moisture seeping in from the other side, right?
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Sep 10, 2018 16:09
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I've got a Champion 4000 generator that won't start. What's it mean when I can squirt gas into the carburetor and get it started, but the instant I stop adding gas it quits? There's gas in the carburetor bowl so it seems like it's getting some from the tank, but otherwise it's like it's not getting gas. The gas is a little old, but it's the same gas that fires when I add it to the carburetor. Brand new spark plug. I'm at the absolute end of my abilities/knowledge when it comes to engines.
jackpot fucked around with this message at 03:23 on Sep 11, 2018 |
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Sep 11, 2018 03:09
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