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Shure se215 earbuds are fantastic at noise protection and sound quality. Best of both worlds snd very comfortable.
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Sep 10, 2018 21:00
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I’ve got an ugly occasional noise at idle on my 96 VFR, I was originally livid because i thought it might be a knock that the PO hid from me but it goes away when I pull in the clutch. I’m assuming this means something with the clutch is worn/going? I did some 3rd/4th low rpm pulls to see if it slips and it doesn’t, but at WOT in second sometimes it feels like the clutch slips for a moment. Could this be the springs? If so how much of a bitch is this to fix?
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Sep 10, 2018 21:45
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Sounds like the nut that holds the clutch basket tight has loosened slightly or something similar, that is my wildly speculative guess. It's not difficult at all to pull the side cover off and have a look. It will cost you the price of a gasket and some engine oil (but you can catch and reuse that with a clean container if you're really skint). At most you'll need to invest in a cheap clutch basket holding tool (or make one if you have the means) if the above has happened. Generally with that type of problem it's easy to see the issue when you have things apart, trying to infer the problem through first principles is usually ineffective. Clutch fiber plates themselves are pretty inexpensive, if you're getting any kind of slipping and your cable adjustment/hydraulics are in good shape, worn out fibers are usually the cause. A competent shop should be able to do the above in less than an hour if you lack resources/are a sissy. But also: bikes make noises and even very well built reliable bikes make funny noises when they're old and it usually signifies nothing. I'd focus on investigating the slipping, if there's something really bad going on you'll know when you replace those. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 22:02 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 21:58
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Quite A Tool posted:I’ve got an ugly occasional noise at idle on my 96 VFR, I was originally livid because i thought it might be a knock that the PO hid from me but it goes away when I pull in the clutch. I’m assuming this means something with the clutch is worn/going? I did some 3rd/4th low rpm pulls to see if it slips and it doesn’t, but at WOT in second sometimes it feels like the clutch slips for a moment. Where is the noise coming from (left or right side of the bike and are you in gear? Are you moving? If your clutch slips, then you probably need new clutch plates. The hardest part is scraping the gasket off the cases. Changing the clutch is really easy, just make sure you put the right plates in the right place. The first and last plates and discs are slightly different I believe. All in all it's a pretty easy job and I'm sure there are plenty of "how-to" guides on the internet. I just did mine, and it took about an hour.  Edit: to parrot what Slavvy said. It might be nothing. Sometimes bikes just make noise. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 22:17
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Quite A Tool posted:I’ve got an ugly occasional noise at idle on my 96 VFR, I was originally livid because i thought it might be a knock that the PO hid from me but it goes away when I pull in the clutch. I’m assuming this means something with the clutch is worn/going? I did some 3rd/4th low rpm pulls to see if it slips and it doesn’t, but at WOT in second sometimes it feels like the clutch slips for a moment. Some bikes drive the oil pump with a little pin set into the end of the crank. The pin wears down a little and the socket it sits in wears larger over time, so the assembly will knock a little when it's idling and not under load. Pulling the clutch in and hearing the sound diminish is usually a really good indication that that's what's happened on bikes so equipped. It can either 1) be ignored, because it's not really damaging anything and incredibly unlikely to completely break and cause damage or 2) replaced with something cheap like a roll pin or a milled-down steel pin. I don't know if that's what's going on, but it's a known issue on my bike (XJ600), and drat near every XJ600 has the clutch knock because it's a fiddly thing to fix that's not critical. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Sep 11, 2018 |
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Sep 11, 2018 00:27
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Anyone know where I can find a donor damping rod for a 96 CBR600f3? Adjustment screw seized and consequently is destroyed. I’ve tried RaceTech and Iron Pony here in Columbus, OH. Ps, thanks for the spelling heads up, previous poster. My forks were in fact dampening, hence the rebuild
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Sep 11, 2018 00:40
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This is a bit of a long shot, but does anyone here have a national cycle street shield? I've had a deflector shield for a while but it's a bit too short for my application so I've had it jacked up to it's highest point but that leads to a gap between the bottom and the headlight. I might just end up going to a larger windshield or a batwing instead (this is for a cruiser by the way), but I'm just trying to see what options I have.
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Sep 11, 2018 04:12
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It’s time for my bikes first service. Do I take it to the (independent) dealer I bought it from, or find somewhere else? There seems to be some distrust for dealership mechanics here, but given the rarity (Mondial HPS 125), size and Chinese factory origins, I suspect I might struggle to find a mechanic who’ll work on it. On top of the small modifications i want done, Is there anything I should get the mechanic to do in the first service that they might not usually do? Someone at a pub told me to specify I wanted a hybrid oil, but that was someone at a pub.
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Sep 16, 2018 07:51
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Dealer prices are pretty crazy for simple work you can do yourself, but personally I don’t think dealers are purposely looking to make your bike unsafe. For every moronic thing a dealer mechanic did, there is something even stupider done by an owner who doesn’t know what he’s doing. If you can afford to have the dealer do the work, let them do it just be prepared to double check their work.
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Sep 16, 2018 14:34
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Dumb question. Thinking of getting some stickers printed at a low volume sticker place for funsies and to decorate my helmet and stuff, then I run across a couple of articles saying that stickers potentially can weaken a polycarbonate helmet. I've got a Shark Ridill helmet which is a polycarbonate helmet and it's painted with a decal from the manufacturer and has a clear gloss finish on it. Am I overthinking things when I'm worried about doing that now or is that legit?
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Sep 18, 2018 00:53
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There is no possible way for sticker adhesive to weaken the plastic through a gloss finish, no.
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Sep 18, 2018 01:58
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people are stupid and whenever they don't understand something (in this case, polymer chemistry) they get scared of it and write things to justify their fears. unless the stickers are some kind of super duper rocket stickers with an adhesive made of acetone, they aren't going to do poo poo to the helmet shell.
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Sep 18, 2018 02:14
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interwhat posted:Anyone know where I can find a donor damping rod for a 96 CBR600f3? Adjustment screw seized and consequently is destroyed. I’ve tried RaceTech and Iron Pony here in Columbus, OH. Ebay, you probably will just have an easier time buying the full fork setup. Other, newer forks may swap in as well, usually there's threads on this on model specific forums. Horse Clocks posted:It’s time for my bikes first service. Do I take it to the (independent) dealer I bought it from, or find somewhere else? Just take it to the independent you bought it from. Also post more pictures of it, their website sucks and I'd love to see close ups.
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Sep 18, 2018 05:35
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Trambopaline posted:Dumb question. Thinking of getting some stickers printed at a low volume sticker place for funsies and to decorate my helmet and stuff, then I run across a couple of articles saying that stickers potentially can weaken a polycarbonate helmet. I've got a Shark Ridill helmet which is a polycarbonate helmet and it's painted with a decal from the manufacturer and has a clear gloss finish on it. Am I overthinking things when I'm worried about doing that now or is that legit? No, sticker adhesive solvent won't weaken a shell, but 1.) if you ever get a head injury in a motorcycle accident and there is any chance you'll be involved in litigation with the helmet manufacturer, they'll likely be able to absolve themselves of any responsibility and 2.) if you ever make a warranty claim, they can claim you voided it.
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Sep 18, 2018 19:00
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Thanks guys, figured it was worth getting a goon opinion on things. As I grow older I get further and further in the camp of it's never smart to think you know everything.
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Sep 21, 2018 01:15
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Does anyone feel like reading some I've broken a valve spring on my rotax Tuono, and according to my Haynes manual, springs are 5 out of 5 wrenches for fiddliness. Ok, fine. I pulled the engine and I'll be take the head to someone that knows what they're doing to take care of new springs / whatever else my spring took with it. In the meantime though, I'm wondering about the carbon deposits on the front piston. What's up with this crusty bullshit?     (The rear piston looks like it's got a much more even buildup via an endoscope - I haven't pulled that head yet, and I'd rather not - and for reference, the engine has about 50,000km on it).
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Sep 23, 2018 03:26
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Sagebrush posted:people are stupid and whenever they don't understand something (in this case, polymer chemistry) they get scared of it and write things to justify their fears. I think it was an actual issue with a particular type of lacquer years and years ago but it's just another thing that's entered into biker lore.
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Sep 23, 2018 05:56
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prukinski posted:Does anyone feel like reading some Without having looked at a million engines, I think that's actually quite normal. It may be different from the rear, it may be something you can change to reduce it, but it's not something wrong with your engine, and there are probably zero ill effects from the deposits. Burning gasoline is a dirty thing, the dirt has to go somewhere.
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Sep 23, 2018 06:45
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prukinski posted:Does anyone feel like reading some I see... Ah yes I see idling. Long hours of idling. And also, I see great distance travelled at middling throttle. This is... This is not the future I see, it is the past. But the past has ways of dictating the future if you can hear its lessons. Avoid the corn-fuel, and speak the mantra "Italian tune-up" to yourself when next you ride. I will give you this potion made from the foam of the sea (and several volatile hydrocarbons). It can cleanse the sins of the past from your pistons, though some say tis better to live with one's sins, for they do no harm, and serve as a reminder to us. Remember the mantra, and don't forget to tip.
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Sep 23, 2018 07:27
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That engine looks loving amazing for 50kkm. I know the rotax twin is pretty bulletproof but that piston has like no wear at all, pretty impressive.
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Sep 23, 2018 08:43
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So I made the mistake of test riding a 1290 Super Adventure R today on some local tracks. How do I justify dropping another 30k on another motorcycle and not get murdered by my wife?
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Sep 23, 2018 12:08
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Gift her some riding lessons and your other bike.
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Sep 23, 2018 13:00
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Fanelien posted:So I made the mistake of test riding a 1290 Super Adventure R today on some local tracks. How do I justify dropping another 30k on another motorcycle and not get murdered by my wife? KTM is is offering $2500 or so off 2018s. Also aren’t they around $20k fully loaded at full price? My GSA premium after taxes and tags wasn’t $30k...
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Sep 23, 2018 15:14
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I was browsing around ali express today to pick up a new brake lever for my fathers nx650 that got knocked over in the wind the other day. He hardly ever uses it, so he can wait some weeks on a lever. None of the local shops had one in stock. While I was there is spotted front fork bracers? Am I correct to assume this is just bullshit? Don't you have a front axle anyway that does the same job?  Looking around there other more official companies that make them, like https://superbrace.com/
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Sep 23, 2018 17:52
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Fanelien posted:So I made the mistake of test riding a 1290 Super Adventure R today on some local tracks. How do I justify dropping another 30k on another motorcycle and not get murdered by my wife? they're insanely good. I love my SAR and my SAS (SAR is better fyi). getting murdered for one is a fair trade
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Sep 23, 2018 18:01
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Finger Prince posted:I see... Ah yes I see idling. Long hours of idling. And also, I see great distance travelled at middling throttle. This is... This is not the future I see, it is the past. But the past has ways of dictating the future if you can hear its lessons. Avoid the corn-fuel, and speak the mantra "Italian tune-up" to yourself when next you ride. I will give you this potion made from the foam of the sea (and several volatile hydrocarbons). It can cleanse the sins of the past from your pistons, though some say tis better to live with one's sins, for they do no harm, and serve as a reminder to us. Remember the mantra, and don't forget to tip.  This is amazing and also good advice. Supradog posted:I was browsing around ali express today to pick up a new brake lever for my fathers nx650 that got knocked over in the wind the other day. He hardly ever uses it, so he can wait some weeks on a lever. None of the local shops had one in stock. I've heard good things about these, but would be interested to know if they really are effective.
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Sep 23, 2018 19:25
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Supradog posted:I was browsing around ali express today to pick up a new brake lever for my fathers nx650 that got knocked over in the wind the other day. He hardly ever uses it, so he can wait some weeks on a lever. None of the local shops had one in stock. Fork braces are a thing and definitely do something. Generally only a noticeable effect on bikes with relatively floppy bendy forks or big heavy front wheels like cruisers, older dual sports, pre-90's big Japanese bikes and so on. They're one of the cheapest and best upgrades you can do to a Harley Sportster.
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Sep 23, 2018 20:06
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Quick question: is there anything on the road that doesn’t turn into a motorcycle murdering deathtrap when it rains? Road markings and manhole covers are out to get me now that summer is ending in the PNW 
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Sep 23, 2018 20:26
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The worst is after a long period of nice weather in spring, when the road gets covered with pollen, various hydrocarbons etc. And then you get a small amount of rain on it and the surface has friction like air hockey. I remember brake testing the rear once on a surface like that and it slid without slowing down much or making much noise.
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Sep 23, 2018 20:33
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movax posted:Quick question: is there anything on the road that doesn’t turn into a motorcycle murdering deathtrap when it rains? Largely why I don’t ride in the rain as much as possible up here. And the drivers are bad enough when it’s 70 and sunny.
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Sep 23, 2018 20:35
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It's the season for wet piles of leaves in the corners too. Good times
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Sep 23, 2018 20:39
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Slavvy posted:Fork braces are a thing and definitely do something. Generally only a noticeable effect on bikes with relatively floppy bendy forks or big heavy front wheels like cruisers, older dual sports, pre-90's big Japanese bikes and so on. Ah, thanks. Good to know about if I get a bike like that.
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Sep 23, 2018 20:54
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Slavvy posted:Fork braces are a thing and definitely do something. Generally only a noticeable effect on bikes with relatively floppy bendy forks or big heavy front wheels like cruisers, older dual sports, pre-90's big Japanese bikes and so on. Do you think the DR650 could benefit greatly from one? I mean, the front feels fine, but I don't know what I don't know. movax posted:Quick question: is there anything on the road that doesn’t turn into a motorcycle murdering deathtrap when it rains? Back when I first started on CA someone said "PAINT BAD. STAY OFF THE PAINT." Which I thought was funny and has also stuck with me.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:25
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Ola posted:The worst is after a long period of nice weather in spring, when the road gets covered with pollen, various hydrocarbons etc. And then you get a small amount of rain on it and the surface has friction like air hockey. I remember brake testing the rear once on a surface like that and it slid without slowing down much or making much noise. The oddest thing I noticed after London's ridiculously warm dry summer is when the weather finally broke after like two months of no rain (yes, this is a very, very long time to go without rain in the UK, shut up people with non-suicide-inducing weather) that there was a huge amount of bubbles on the road - the entrance to one tunnel legit looked like a foam party. I *think* it was caused by the detergent they add to petrol - obviously leaked petrol would evaporate away but all the additives would just stick around and without anything to wash them away would then all come up at once, but between that and the lifted diesel it made me praise the dark magic of ABS and traction control as either one or the other was on pretty much constantly on some stretches of my ride home. Having said that, I suspect this one particular odd phenomenon has actually done a fairly amazing job of getting rid of all that diesel in pretty short order - it's really noticeable just how much more grip than I'm expecting there is now that we're back in The Drizzle Zone, our normal soul-destroying light rain not normally being enough to clean off diesel spills.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:49
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Does anyone remember the different properties of adjusting intake/exhaust valves on the loose end or tight end? I seem to remember that adjusting them on the loose(?) end of the adjustment range gives better idling and starting characteristics, but I can't remember the specifics.
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Sep 24, 2018 01:57
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Happy valves are slappy valves and I always put em at the loose end of spec. Less engine wear and longer between intervals.
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Sep 24, 2018 02:53
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Jazzzzz posted:It's the season for wet piles of leaves in the corners too. Good times Oh gently caress, I didn’t even think about this. Probably gonna happen here in a few weeks. Looking forward to dropping at 5MPH in front of onlookers. 
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Sep 24, 2018 03:33
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Just slow down and be gentle with your brakes and don't ride through blind corners faster than you can see (which you should never be doing anyway)
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Sep 24, 2018 04:07
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Slide Hammer posted:Does anyone remember the different properties of adjusting intake/exhaust valves on the loose end or tight end? I seem to remember that adjusting them on the loose(?) end of the adjustment range gives better idling and starting characteristics, but I can't remember the specifics. Valves kind of pound their way into the head, getting tighter over time. Adjusting to the loose end of spec means that when you finally get around to checking them again in a few years, they'll probably still be in spec or at least not dangerously tight. As far as performance, my last valve-loosening made the bike a bit harder to kick over, but idling is smoother.
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Sep 24, 2018 06:04
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Coydog posted:Do you think the DR650 could benefit greatly from one? I mean, the front feels fine, but I don't know what I don't know. Greatly? Nah. Skills always trump equipment anyway. IANAE but: It's got that dorky looking long fork and bigass front wheel that easily rattle over bumps upright, but when you're braking and turning it's capable enough to really load up the front tyre and take advantage of that preposterous shinko grip. The wheel wiggles around (not to mention the hoop flexes in relation to the hub) as it follows the road and some of that movement is perpendicular to the direction of rotation. Those forces are transmitted through the axle. The axle is relatively skinny and can't really keep the forks in line with all that movement going on because they've got 250kg of coydog adventuring on the other end. The whole U-shaped unsprung part of the fork starts to flex and parallelogram and twist axially. All of this tends to bind the forks up and make their job harder. That extra bracing up between the two loose ends of the U will reduce the twisting and bending. Now, some lateral flex in a bike is cool and good because that's how it generates grip when leaned over; the goal isn't to make the bike a perfectly rigid structure. If you stick a brace on there, all of the above will still happen but to a slightly lesser degree and That's Fine. For you, in practice it means being able to push harder on that trusty 705 before the fork stops being able to control the wheel's movements, potentially exhausting the available grip and making the front slide. So you've got more grip in reserve when you're carrying on at a fair clip in the hills, an SUV comes around the corner well over the line and you have to avoid them while not leaving the road. Improving the fork's operation also contributes to the feeling of confidence through the bars, so you're more relaxed and ride better as a result. So you can go faster  Road bikes often have a little alloy plate or similar at the top of the mudguard as a low key brace. See also: giant hollow dwarven forged axles, chunky USD forks on modern bikes addressing the above and myriad other issues. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Sep 24, 2018 |
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Sep 24, 2018 08:23
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