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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Jigsaws are not in my experience precision instruments, especially not for cutting through thick material. I agree. But I don’t have many options. The headboard is huge. My only option is to lay it on the ground and go at it with whatever I have access to. The belt sander, even propped up on it’s side, held flat and flush, gave me a bad curve/slant. I don’t expect my hand sawing skills are too great. But to cut across a 3 inch width, with a clamped fence, my suspicion is it’s my best shot at serviceable-or-better. 
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Sep 22, 2018 18:14
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your best shot is putting a 2x4 under it so it's off the ground and using a speed square or clamping a piece of wood to the leg and sawing it by hand. A jigsaw will cut straight for 75% of it and and 25% will dive one way or the other because you slightly twisted or pushed differently. You are less likely to get a straight cut with a jigsaw Haha why did you decide to take a 1/4inch off this late in the game?? Tell me you aren't adjusting the height now because of a picture on the wall or electrical outlet :/
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Sep 22, 2018 18:19
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I would also saw by hand, seems too thick for a jigsaw. Just only saw where you can see your line, for example saw at an angle through the front and top, then flip it over so you can see your line for the bottom and back. With a bit of practice sawing straight and accurate with a handsaw is pretty easy. I mostly use a Mastercraft branded handsaw that has induction hardened teeth, so like a $15 saw and I can get pretty good results with it.
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Sep 22, 2018 18:23
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:your best shot is putting a 2x4 under it so it's off the ground and using a speed square or clamping a piece of wood to the leg and sawing it by hand. A jigsaw will cut straight for 75% of it and and 25% will dive one way or the other because you slightly twisted or pushed differently. You are less likely to get a straight cut with a jigsaw It’s just a bit higher than we want. And there’s a little more of the umm “negative space” between the legs visible in the corners [Ed] I only had a fairly small Japanese pull saw, and raising everything up high enough to go get a bigger saw would have been a monumental task in my garage, so I went with jigsaw +fence and I’m happy to say I care out near perfect-enough to essentially shore it up with about 5 min of sanding. Sooo, success, I guess?! thanks for all the great advice!My next challenge to wrap my head around is how to use French cleats on the back and still have the top mantel piece of the headboard... “flush” with the wall. (I have some back overhang in that top piece to allow for baseboard, etc...) Feenix fucked around with this message at 20:38 on Sep 22, 2018 |
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Sep 22, 2018 18:24
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Feenix posted:I agree. But I don’t have many options. The headboard is huge. My only option is to lay it on the ground and go at it with whatever I have access to. The belt sander, even propped up on it’s side, held flat and flush, gave me a bad curve/slant. I don’t expect my hand sawing skills are too great. But to cut across a 3 inch width, with a clamped fence, my suspicion is it’s my best shot at serviceable-or-better. Jesus Christ, go get a 10 dollar hacksaw and a coarse blade and put us out of your misery.
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Sep 22, 2018 21:51
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Mr. Mambold posted:Jesus Christ, go get a 10 dollar hacksaw and a coarse blade and put us out of your misery. Its been resolved, thanks hoss.
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Sep 22, 2018 21:53
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Glue-up has begun. Here I'm gluing the backsplash onto the top panel, so I can apply finish to them together. There are two kicks (or whatever you call them) on the bottom that will be glued on before finishing as well. This is the first time I've knocked it together with the backsplash in place, and it's surprising how much more "complete" it looks with just that piece added. The project's reached the point where I can just stare at it, noticing all the little things I did wrong, all the things that are right, how big this thing is, oh gosh half an hour has passed. 
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Sep 22, 2018 21:58
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So it sounds like a miter saw could be a good investment. Any word on what features I should look for? Or even better, a specific model in the $200-300 range to consider?
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Sep 22, 2018 22:34
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That Works posted:
Spring Heeled Jack posted:I'm also interested in this. I have a basement shop so it will be nice to have something to do when babby is sleeping and I cant go banging on my chisels. No one really picked up on this. I read around a good bit and picked up a knife set and book and began practicing some patterns. Knives https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0057P4ARM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Book https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/1402741286/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There's also a lot of helpful tutorial videos on this guys site once you get past the 1st few pages, which was set up for instructors to watch to teach a chip carving class but it works great to look at and learn hand positions for each cut etc and a lot of other technique hints. http://mychipcarving.com/Chip_Carving/CCCI/ccci.php?page=1 Overall it's easy to learn to get working 'ok' but to get a really nice consistent pattern will probably take several projects to get down. Still, by the time I finished with this box lid, more than half of my chips were consistently identical and cleanly cut. The knives need to be kept really sharp, even moreso than my chisel or plane blades. I had to stop and sharpen twice during making just this lid, so if you want to chip carve, it seems like you will want a good sharpening stone setup ready to go. Pattern transfer was done with a pattern I sketched out in inkscape (freeware Adobe Illustrator) and printed on a laser printer (apparently a copier will work also, but inkjet will not). Just needed to heat the inked area and remove it away from the wood quickly so that the ink does not resorb onto the paper and onto the wood instead. I also ended up warping the poo poo out of my lid by ironing it for a few minutes straight  so, next time need to take a lot of short breaks. I was able to mostly fix it by lightly misting the same side with water and then hitting the outside edges with a smoothing planer as it started to cup up slightly away from the top of the box.  After that made the 1st line of chips. These got progressively better as I got used to the angle holding the knife, then started to get worse again as the knife began to dull. Now that I know what to look for, I can do better.  I was dissapointed with how the long thin border cuts came out. I do not have a steady / practiced enough hand to make these right and they are the worst looking part of the entire thing. I think until I get a lot better at doing this I'm going to cut these kind of lines with a straight edge clamped to the piece and a utility knife. Lesson / limitations learned.  After it was done I used an awl to pick out a few fiddly bits of wood at the bottom of each divot and had to go in to a few of them and cut very lightly to get all faces of each cut to meet at the bottom as a few were too shallow of a cut and/or angle.  This is it after staining. I'm in the middle of applying just a few coats of a heavily thinned satin poly / linseed oil wiping varnish. Erring on the thin side so the poly doesn't fill up the crevices and make it look like plastic or something. Will post picks when it's finished. This has been a fun piece. 1st dovetails ever, 1st chipcarving, 1st box I've made.
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Sep 22, 2018 22:34
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That's really cool! Thanks for sharing, esp. your description of how you developed your technique.
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Sep 22, 2018 22:35
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Apollodorus posted:So it sounds like a miter saw could be a good investment. Spend more and get a DeWalt sliding compound. I limited my budget and got a compound and for five years I've really missed the extra capacity.
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Sep 22, 2018 22:45
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I got a gently used ryobi 10” compound miter for like $80 off craigslist. Kinda wish I’d spring for a sliding one though.
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Sep 22, 2018 22:52
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend more and get a DeWalt sliding compound. I limited my budget and got a compound and for five years I've really missed the extra capacity. I have a compound, and it's pretty rare that I need to crosscut a board wider than 8-9", which is about what its max cutting capacity is. 
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Sep 22, 2018 23:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have a compound, and it's pretty rare that I need to crosscut a board wider than 8-9", which is about what its max cutting capacity is. Do you have a 12" or something? The max crosscut for most 10" saws is 6"
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Sep 22, 2018 23:20
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That Works posted:No one really picked up on this. I read around a good bit and picked up a knife set and book and began practicing some patterns. This is rad and super inspiring.
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Sep 22, 2018 23:38
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Feenix posted:This is rad and super inspiring. Thanks! It's been really fun to try a bunch of different stuff at once and have it more or less work.
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Sep 23, 2018 00:05
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Stultus Maximus posted:Do you have a 12" or something? The max crosscut for most 10" saws is 6" Yeah, I have this saw. It's served me well. My impression of sliding compounds is that you get more crosscut capacity for your sawblade size, but they're also a lot harder to dial in and get precise cuts with. I've never really had any trouble getting exactly the cut I want with this thing.
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Sep 23, 2018 00:51
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Do I want a double bevel saw, or is that not strictly necessary for my amateur home projects?
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Sep 23, 2018 01:20
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Apollodorus posted:Do I want a double bevel saw, or is that not strictly necessary for my amateur home projects? It's not really necessary at all. More convenient for some things, but never necessary.
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Sep 23, 2018 01:35
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If you get a miter, grab a Freud Fusion blade.
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Sep 23, 2018 01:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, I have this saw. It's served me well. Not at all, but I will say if you get a sliding one set it up in a dedicated area, they are a bit of a bitch to move around. I have a 12" SkillSaw compound miter with double bevel and it is nice to be able to set the bevel either way instead of turning the wood around.
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Sep 23, 2018 02:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, I have this saw. It's served me well. Pro-tip, which means exactly that: you can lift a wide board diagonally into the spinning blade keeping the back of the board firm against the fence and get another inch or two of cross cutting. E.R.s hate this guy.
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Sep 23, 2018 15:41
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Stultus Maximus posted:Spend more and get a DeWalt sliding compound. I limited my budget and got a compound and for five years I've really missed the extra capacity. Agree with the slide. I really regret getting a stationary.
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Sep 23, 2018 16:22
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Okay so there's about a $170 price difference between the stationary and sliding versions. What specific benefit does the sliding feature have? Can you give me an example? I think I've only used a miter saw once, like 9 years ago, and it was not for an especially complicated project so I'm having a hard time envisioning it right now.
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Sep 23, 2018 16:34
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Apollo are you running 6 inch baseboard around a big house? You probably won't need the slider. Mr. Mambold posted:Pro-tip, which means exactly that: you can lift a wide board diagonally into the spinning blade keeping the back of the board firm against the fence and get another inch or two of cross cutting. Forget your fence just squint and hold your wood up in the air, waving back and forth as you approach the saw blade I do what you actually said all the time though. I did it a few days ago when I was cutting ~10-11 inches normally and needed a 12x12 square piece. Its really common in stone and tile as well but those saws aren't really taking fingers and hands off. If someone didn't know what you meant already I hope they don't try it. Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Sep 23, 2018 |
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Sep 23, 2018 16:40
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The sliding just gives you more cut capacity. That’s it. If you ever think you’ll need to cut something 10” wide or more, sliding is good If you get a stationary because you don’t think you will, you will immediately need to cut a wide board and regret your purchase
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Sep 23, 2018 16:40
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To go from no miter saw to a miter saw is such a massive improvement in a shop I highly doubt they need the sliding capability, otherwise they would have been on it already.
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Sep 23, 2018 16:47
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Apollo are you running 6 inch baseboard around a big house? You probably won't need the slider. Yes, it's dangerous use of any already dangerous tool, so thanks for the +1. Yet, here we are, doing dem yolo thangs.
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Sep 23, 2018 17:22
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Sockser posted:The sliding just gives you more cut capacity. That’s it. If you ever think you’ll need to cut something 10” wide or more, sliding is good As the vast majority of shelves in kitchen uppers, bookcase shelving are 12", this is where that comes to mind. Although I have a radial arm saw, most don't and I'll be the first one to confirm that a good miter saw will cut a true 90 better than nearly any radial arm saw.
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Sep 23, 2018 17:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:As the vast majority of shelves in kitchen uppers, bookcase shelving are 12", this is where that comes to mind. This is where I started missing the capacity.
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Sep 23, 2018 17:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:Pro-tip, which means exactly that: you can lift a wide board diagonally into the spinning blade keeping the back of the board firm against the fence and get another inch or two of cross cutting. I've just flipped the board around and made a second cut. With care and practice you can get a pretty good cut, though I've yet to get it reliably. Still, most of the time with wide boards, the end is hidden -- it's breadboarded, or the end is covered by trim, or similar, so it just hasn't been a big deal.
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Sep 23, 2018 17:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I've just flipped the board around and made a second cut. With care and practice you can get a pretty good cut, though I've yet to get it reliably. Still, most of the time with wide boards, the end is hidden -- it's breadboarded, or the end is covered by trim, or similar, so it just hasn't been a big deal.    
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Sep 23, 2018 20:05
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Apollodorus posted:Okay so there's about a $170 price difference between the stationary and sliding versions. What specific benefit does the sliding feature have? Can you give me an example? Since I am limited to 6" or so cuts on my stationary, when stock is larger I have to either make 2 cuts and hope they line up perfectly, or I have to take a potentially 10-12'board and cross cut it on my table saw. Which is a horrible option due to space constraints (usually a TS is oriented for ripping those lengths as opposed to cross cutting those lengths). Yeah I would gladly go back in time and pay the <$200 difference. Harry Potter on Ice posted:To go from no miter saw to a miter saw is such a massive improvement in a shop I highly doubt they need the sliding capability, otherwise they would have been on it already. I have learned in my 50+ years that buy-once-cry-once is a very good thing to live by. Despite my short sightedness at times. To wit: non-slide miter saw. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 20:22 on Sep 23, 2018 |
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Sep 23, 2018 20:17
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E;F, DP
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Sep 23, 2018 20:19
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Sockser posted:The sliding just gives you more cut capacity. That’s it. If you ever think you’ll need to cut something 10” wide or more, sliding is good This but also plunge vs fixed routers, lol.
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Sep 23, 2018 22:07
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Feenix posted:This but also plunge vs fixed routers, lol. One of each, or at least interchangeable bases.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:00
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If you need one router, you actually need a minimum of 3. Nearly universal truth in power tool woodworking. Dedicated table, motor with a plunge and fixed base and a 1/4" trim. Bonus points for the trim having a plunge base too.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:04
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Don’t even get me started on having to aspire to be Tom Clampsy.
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Sep 23, 2018 23:12
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Ok, these are all good and true (especially the router from personal experience) but the person saying their wife said they could spend $2-300 on a new power tool and not knowing they wanted a miter saw probably doesn't need the sliding capacity. Someday? Maybe. For now and a while, doubt itFeenix posted:Don’t even get me started on having to aspire to be Tom Clampsy. Almost a decade ago I remember walking into a garage sale and the entire basement wall was various sized pipe clamps for loving cheapppp and I didn't. get. one. That one eats at me
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Sep 24, 2018 01:40
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My shop is coming along nicely. Just needs insulation and drywall. Then I have to build a bench. 
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Sep 24, 2018 01:57
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