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Help me get my truck to pass emissions! It's a 2001 Chevy S10 with the 2.2 liter engine. The reason it's not passing is that it's throwing a code - P0440 - evaporative emissions system malfunction. The EVAP monitor has plagued me in the past - the last several years it was reporting that it wasn't ready to test due to not having been through the right drive cycle, but here in Georgia we can still pass even if one monitor isn't online. This year it's apparently back online and now throwing the code. What I have done so far is go underneath the truck and inspect any lines going to and from the gas tank for cracks or damage. I didn't see anything glaring or obviously damaged. I also replaced the gas cap. and unplugged the negative battery cable to clear the stored code. My CEL came back on pretty quickly afterwards even with the codes cleared and the gas cap replaced, which made me really sad. Last week I accidentally ran the battery until it died, and the CEL has not illuminated since. I drive it about six miles a day. I do not smell when I get out of the truck, or when it is running and i go underneath to see if i can smell gas. As far as I know, the only clue I have to go on is that oftentimes when i try to fill up the tank, the auto shutoff on the pump handle keeps being triggered for reasons unbeknownst. The CEL would come on irregularly, with no real pattern or trigger that i could discern. What's my next move? What do I check or inspect? I don't mind shotgunning parts at it. I just don't want to take it to a mechanic until I'm desperate, because I fear that the solution may ultimately require either pulling the bed or dropping the gas tank and I don't really want to pay someone else to do either of those things until I absolutely have to.
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Oct 3, 2018 02:10
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kid sinister posted:I hate this truck. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It had a 5th wheel tailgate once upon a time that was beat to hell, which also beat the hell out of my back bed corners. I'm trying to put a brand new regular tailgate on it. I used a ratchet strap to pull the bottoms back into shape, but now the top corners are too close! I'm trying to figure out how to move the top of the back right corner outward again. I tried to put a ratchet strap around a tree, but the truck's suspension took all of the strap tension instead of that corner. Any ideas? As previous poster stated, spread it with a jack. Probably doesn't need to be a powerful or big jack either (not all hydraulic jacks like to work when laying on their side). Use lumber to reach where you need to push, use flat things that won't break or deform too much to spread the load over a bigger area if the sheet metal is giving way in a manner you don't like. Or you could try parking between a pair of trees or similar anchor points and use two ratchet straps in opposite direction. Pull in a roughly horizontal direction and the truck's suspension should be out of the picture.
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Oct 3, 2018 06:18
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I posted a few weeks ago about my Fiat X19 and a leaking CV boot. I finally got around to having a proper go at replacing it today and it mostly went okay, but I seem to be completely stuck on something I'm sure is stupid simple. The ball joint from the control arm to the bottom of the knuckle doesn't have enough clearance to actually fully remove the ball joint stud thing because it hits the hub with about 3cm left to clear. I tried to grab a couple of photos to illustrate what I mean, hopefully they're clear enough. If I lift the control arm any further it just hits the hub and the whole thing lifts, and I've tried manipulating and twisting the knuckle as much as I could and I just can't get enough clearance. I'm pretty sure that if I remove the control arm entirely I'll be able to angle it out, but according to the Haynes manual I have this shouldn't be necessary. What dumb thing am I doing wrong??? https://imgur.com/lRav0Iy https://imgur.com/dkCMgVt
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Oct 3, 2018 09:14
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kid sinister posted:I hate this truck. 1997 Ford F250 HD. It had a 5th wheel tailgate once upon a time that was beat to hell, which also beat the hell out of my back bed corners. I'm trying to put a brand new regular tailgate on it. I used a ratchet strap to pull the bottoms back into shape, but now the top corners are too close! I'm trying to figure out how to move the top of the back right corner outward again. I tried to put a ratchet strap around a tree, but the truck's suspension took all of the strap tension instead of that corner. Any ideas? When I smashed one side of my ute in I used a scissor jack diagonally across the tray and some 4x4"s with wood offcuts to jack it out.
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Oct 3, 2018 10:41
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Deteriorata posted:Touch-up paint will cover it up for a couple months, but it will continue to rust and will break though it even worse than before. To fix it permanently, you have go grind it down to clean metal, then primer it and repaint. melon cat fucked around with this message at 15:22 on Oct 3, 2018 |
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Oct 3, 2018 15:13
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melon cat posted:Ah geez. Sounds like it might be more trouble than it's worth. I don't think I'd be able to do that without it looking like a bumpy, DIY mess. Thanks for the pointers, either way. A bumpy DIY mess is better than rust.
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Oct 3, 2018 15:41
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melon cat posted:Ah geez. Sounds like it might be more trouble than it's worth. I don't think I'd be able to do that without it looking like a bumpy, DIY mess. Thanks for the pointers, either way. If you don't fix it while it's surface rust, it will eat through the whole panel. The longer you wait the harder and more expensive it gets to fix. Rust never sleeps.
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Oct 3, 2018 15:45
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/\ Fair enough. And it does look like this Corolla is worth keeping around. Time to break out the dremel, then.
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Oct 3, 2018 15:59
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melon cat posted:/\ Fair enough. And it does look like this Corolla is worth keeping around. Time to break out the dremel, then. You don't need to wire-wheel it to a wide area, just enough to get rid of the rust. This should be less than five minutes of effort, including painting.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:00
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Mahatma-Squid posted:I posted a few weeks ago about my Fiat X19 and a leaking CV boot. I finally got around to having a proper go at replacing it today and it mostly went okay, but I seem to be completely stuck on something I'm sure is stupid simple. The ball joint from the control arm to the bottom of the knuckle doesn't have enough clearance to actually fully remove the ball joint stud thing because it hits the hub with about 3cm left to clear. Ugh that's the kind of poo poo that drives me insane. How hard is it to pull the lower arm off the car completely?
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Oct 3, 2018 16:27
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As I might be going to see another automatic transmission car I'll try again: What are red flags when it comes to automatics? I've driven manuals my whole life.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:31
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MrOnBicycle posted:As I might be going to see another automatic transmission car I'll try again: Smell the fluid, it shouldn't be overly dark or burnt smelling. Look out for hard shifts or any kind of slipping feeling, though the latter can be hard to judge if you're not used to autos. Overly hard rocking when shifting from park to drive/reverse is usually an engine or trans mount issue, not an issue with the trans itself.
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Oct 3, 2018 16:49
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The factory tape deck in my 96 Starlet has started making a loud-ish whirring noise as soon as a tape is inserted (and won't play the tape). Luckily I had a spare that I picked up on a whim at the wreckers when I was cannibalising the wiring harness out of another car... which upon installation has the exact same issue  I made a half-arsed attempt to fix it by shooting some penetrating lubricant into one of them, but didn't make any difference. Is this something that might have an easy-ish fix, or should I roll the dice with another tape deck? I've already picked up a Bluetooth FM adapter so I can still listen to stuff from my phone, but have been building up a collection of secondhand tapes that I'd like to keep listening to.
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Oct 3, 2018 23:18
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I'm installing a new high pressure power steering hose in my Honda Element, aftermarket. It took forever to get it to bite but I finally got it to start threading on, I did maybe 2 turns by hand and then had to use the wrench. It wasn't hard to tighten at all, my hands are just greasy as gently caress and so is the bolt. My question is though, it stopped about a 1/4" out from threading all the way. That can't be good right? It snug as a bug, won't go any further. I'm fully assuming it's gonna leak because it's not all the way tightened though. I don't think I crossedthreaded it, it went smooth until it just stopped going.
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Oct 3, 2018 23:47
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IOwnCalculus posted:Ugh that's the kind of poo poo that drives me insane. How hard is it to pull the lower arm off the car completely? It looks like it should only be 2 fairly beefy bolts with decent clearance, so it shouldn't be too bad. (This means it will be absolutely terrible) I'm going to have another go at getting the precise angle that lets me clear the hub, and that will be my fallback plan.
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Oct 3, 2018 23:56
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You say "bolt", but do you mean a hydraulic fitting? Most hoses I have experience with are JIC (they seal when two angled faces mate), NPT (the male end is tapered and seals as it jams into the port, you will want to use additional sealing tape or compound), and o-ring face seal (have an o-ring on the end of the male end that seals when it's tightened flat). The ball three of those types will have threads exposed when fully tightened. There are also o-ring boss fittings where the o-ring is at the base of the male end which seals against a face on the port, but those are generally reserved for threading into hydraulic components, not for the ends hoses connect to.
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Oct 3, 2018 23:58
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Uthor posted:You say "bolt", but do you mean a hydraulic fitting? Sorry I mean the threaded part on the end of the rigid metal hose side. It can slide around. The hose goes into a hole and then the threaded part slides down to said hole to thread in sealing the hose inside.  Edit: I can't remember if the old PS hose was tightened flush or not. Googling found someone with the same problem (BMW though) and I guess the bolt isn't supposed to be tightened flush for them. Schroeder91 fucked around with this message at 00:23 on Oct 4, 2018 |
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Oct 4, 2018 00:15
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If you're asking if you should be concerned because not all the threads on the flare nut are in whatever you're tightening the hose into... no, those fittings pretty much always have threads left exposed after tightening.
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Oct 4, 2018 00:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:If you're asking if you should be concerned because not all the threads on the flare nut are in whatever you're tightening the hose into... no, those fittings pretty much always have threads left exposed after tightening. That's what I'm asking, yes. The old one was caked in poo poo so I didn't notice weather or not it was in all the way. Generally you thread things all the way.. Thanks buddy!
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Oct 4, 2018 00:33
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Helping my dad pick tires for his 2003 350z touring. It's sitting on 225/45-18s front and 245/45-18s in the back. Wheels are rpf1s, 18x8.5 +30mm offset front and 18x9.5 +15mm offset rear. I was thinking 245/40-18 and 275/40-18 Michelin pilot sports but am worried about rubbing. Stock suspension, no desire to lower it or roll the fenders. Searching the internet says it's fine but I have little faith in other car forums. Anyone in ai with a 350z who could chime in or know someone I could pm?
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Oct 4, 2018 01:07
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Any of you guys ever ordered from gmpartsgiant.com? Their prices undercut rockauto a little, and I'm able to order the through bolt I suspect I'm going to need when I do my front motor/trans mount (the exposed threads on the nut side are a bit crunchy). I'm sure I could get the bolt at a Chevy dealer, but it'll probably be  instead of $1.Their prices seem a little too good to be true (such as a brand new, ready to plug in instrument cluster for $132, though apparently list is only $200ish, and I suspect I may be replacing the cluster soon based on the random warning lights and errors it's throwing that aren't actually happening). I could drop in a used cluster, but I'd have to desolder an EPROM and swap it over.  said threads/nut. I'm from Texas, I don't deal with rust much, so I have no idea if that's something that could easily be tackled with penetrating oil or not. Oddly, the other end of the bolt looks factory fresh. ... also kinda looks like someone's been in here before, wondering if the PO had a clutch job at some point. The mount itself has the original, depreciated part number on it, so it probably hasn't been replaced... and other bolts that actually hold the trans and engine together look like they've had some ugga duggas in the past. tl;dr opinions on gmpartsgiant before I pull the trigger
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Oct 4, 2018 06:31
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opengl128 posted:Smell the fluid, it shouldn't be overly dark or burnt smelling. Awesome thanks! The one I test drove before just felt "wrong". Must definitely have been bad mount then as it rocked pretty hard when shifting. When I drove it, the box was very slow to react to fully pressing the throttle (~2 seconds) and generally felt off but didn't have hard shifts. Car was several seconds slower than it should have been.
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Oct 4, 2018 08:31
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Car: 2006 Saab 9-3 conv with 2.0 petrol engine. All been running perfectly up until yesterday Now: when the engine is cold (i.e. sat for a few hours), it is hard to start. All looks good, start spins at a healthy rate, but instead of firing up almost immediately, it cranks over for 10s before finally firing up. It seems to be turning over with no ignition at all, then suddenly everything works Try a restart when the engine is hot: perfect Performance on the road: all perfect Left it for an hour, I think that it took a little longer than usual to fire up (maybe 3sec instead of the usual 1) and I got an impression that it wasn't firing on all 4 for half a second. What would cause it to completely fail to go 'vroom' on a cool engine?
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Oct 4, 2018 13:49
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Fuel pump losing prime or just starting to get worn down?
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Oct 4, 2018 13:51
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EightBit posted:Fuel pump losing prime or just starting to get worn down? Ah, that sounds promising. I was assuming that if it works fine while on the road, it must be okay with delivering fuel but failing cold starts seems to be a common symptom Thanks. E: gently caress, you have to drop the tank to get access. spog fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Oct 4, 2018 |
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Oct 4, 2018 14:03
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Ethics_Gradient posted:The factory tape deck in my 96 Starlet has started making a loud-ish whirring noise as soon as a tape is inserted (and won't play the tape). Luckily I had a spare that I picked up on a whim at the wreckers when I was cannibalising the wiring harness out of another car... which upon installation has the exact same issue I'm talking completely out of my rear end here, but I think there's a "belt" (rubber band) that drives the cassette mechanism, and it's probably broken.
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Oct 4, 2018 18:27
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Dagen H posted:I'm talking completely out of my rear end here, but I think there's a "belt" (rubber band) that drives the cassette mechanism, and it's probably broken. Hopefully just broken and not also goopy.
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Oct 4, 2018 21:16
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Dagen H posted:I'm talking completely out of my rear end here, but I think there's a "belt" (rubber band) that drives the cassette mechanism, and it's probably broken. That actually makes sense - doesn't want to rewind or FF and the whirring noise could very well be something spinning freely that should have a belt-worth of resistance on it. I am going to dig into it this weekend and see. KakerMix posted:Hopefully just broken and not also goopy. That's what the spare one is for 
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Oct 5, 2018 00:04
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Is there any way to find general replacements for ultra specific bolts? I had to cut through a control arm bolt and after looking through several parts catalogs and asking a few dealerships, the specific one I need is no longer in production
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Oct 5, 2018 00:21
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The Door Frame posted:Is there any way to find general replacements for ultra specific bolts? I had to cut through a control arm bolt and after looking through several parts catalogs and asking a few dealerships, the specific one I need is no longer in production Salvage yard. If you can find the exact part number, you might get lucky and find a new one on eBay. If it's a collectable vehicle or American made truck, restoration companies might have it. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:34 on Oct 5, 2018 |
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Oct 5, 2018 00:31
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The Door Frame posted:Is there any way to find general replacements for ultra specific bolts? I had to cut through a control arm bolt and after looking through several parts catalogs and asking a few dealerships, the specific one I need is no longer in production Get a machine shop to make one for you. Junkyard is a lot cheaper.
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Oct 5, 2018 00:45
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kid sinister posted:Salvage yard. If you can find the exact part number, you might get lucky and find a new one on eBay. I was afraid of that answer. I can't find anything that shares the same platform in wreckers around me, so I'm asking specialist communities and the only replacement I can find is $60 for the bolt and matching nut E: Platystemon posted:Get a machine shop to make one for you. Even if the bolt has been chopped into 3 pieces?
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Oct 5, 2018 00:48
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Have you tried McMaster Carr? If it’s truly just a bolt, they almost assuredly have a (likely superior) replacement. It won’t be a matter of searching the part number, however, so much as searching dimensions and characteristics. Edit: also, what is it? I’m going to a junkyard next weekend and if I can find one, I’ll ship it to you.
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Oct 5, 2018 01:46
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Krakkles posted:Have you tried McMaster Carr? Ooo, the one in the McMaster catalogue looks right, and there's one right next to my school
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Oct 5, 2018 04:14
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The Door Frame posted:Ooo, the one in the McMaster catalogue looks right, and there's one right next to my school Even in three pieces you can measure diameter, length and thread pitch and then just buy the same.
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Oct 5, 2018 04:34
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I've got a 350 sbc in my jeep that takes a while to get oil up to pressure after it's sat for any length of time. The needle hangs for a bit after start and the motor runs kinda rough, and after about a second the gauge starts to move. Takes about five, ten seconds to get up to pressure and then it's running smoother. I'm thinking oil pump but I'm not sure. Recent oil change, 5w30 synthetic blend, less than 5k miles on the motor.
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Oct 5, 2018 05:41
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That's pretty normal for a real gauge (not a heavily dampened one like you get on 99% of 90s+ vehicles), if the engine is cold. It takes a bit of time to get all that oil circulating. I'm assuming you have an aftermarket gauge? BTW, this is why synthetic and synthetic blends are a good thing, they clings to parts a lot better after sitting - you get less wear and tear on a cold start. IIRC, this has GM factory throttle body injection on it, right? Or is it a carb? Neither are particularly known for super smooth running immediately on a cold start. For a 350 I'd probably consider 10w30, personally, except for the coldest part of the year. 10w40 during summer months if you're in the hottest parts of the US. The 350 itself dates back to the early 60s, the SBC dates back to the mid 50s, it's not modern by any stretch. Even GM still recommends 10w30 for crate 350s. So long as you're not hearing any obvious rattling until the oil pressure comes up, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Oct 5, 2018 06:03
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Can I add oil through the dipstick tube? Assuming I can find a funnel that fits. The actual filler tube is absent from my van, but there's a filler cap on the valve cover under the doghouse. For an actual oil change I will, but I would rather not pull the whole stupid thing off just to top up the pint or so of oil it needs.
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Oct 5, 2018 06:13
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Engine oil dipstick tubes are skinny as hell so pour slowly. I also wouldn't bother rechecking the level without letting it finish draining out for a few minutes.
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Oct 5, 2018 06:22
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STR posted:That's pretty normal for a real gauge (not a heavily dampened one like you get on 99% of 90s+ vehicles), if the engine is cold. It takes a bit of time to get all that oil circulating. I'm assuming you have an aftermarket gauge? It's an aftermrket gauge, yeah. And I'm down in the deep parts of Florida so cold weather is definitely not much of a concern. Also: good memory! It's running the FAST EZ EFI 2.0 instead of the carb. As long as I'm not damaging anything then I'm fine with it taking what time it needs
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Oct 5, 2018 07:43
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