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Dr Hemulen posted:In other news I've been experimenting with laser cutting styrene for conversions and scratchbuilding. This is for a halloween costume, but the principle is the same: That's what I do! Except by hand    I'm seriously interested in how well this works out. 2mm is incredibly thick and relatively expensive unless you want something to be able to withstand being thrown against a wall. I use 0.5mm because it's the easiest to cut, sand and work with by hand, but 1mm might be a happy medium for you and cut down on cutting time. Cranking out rhinos and other Imperial tanks would be amazing, but I'm very curious how the edge quality is. I used to run an industrial laser, cutting sheets of steel up to 10'x6'x1/2”, and when it was setup properly those parts could be fit and welded right away, but if there's an issue it was hours of grinding and cleaning the edges. I'm wondering just how cleanly this cuts parts, what the kerf looks like and if there's any heat warp or raised edges?
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Oct 17, 2018 21:14
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Ilor posted:What laser are you using to cut styrene? Most CO2 lasers warn you not to cut that stuff because it off-gases chlorine which is damaging to both the laser's optics and, you know, your lungs. Styrene's okay, but not optimal. You're thinking of PVC and other vinyl derivatives, which absolutely do offgas chlorine, on account of being chlorides.
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Oct 17, 2018 21:44
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Anyone had luck using Vallejo metal Colors with a brush? I want to make sure it works in case I need to try and color match with a different paint.
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Oct 17, 2018 22:56
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Yeah. Though be warned that they're really thin, so you've gotta be careful to not let your brush suck up too much paint.
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Oct 17, 2018 23:02
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Floppychop posted:Anyone had luck using Vallejo metal Colors with a brush? It will ruin your brush in short order, use it with a junk brush.
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Oct 17, 2018 23:03
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VolatileSky posted:That's what I do! Except by hand Fascinating. Like in a Spock way, not a sarcastic way
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Oct 17, 2018 23:16
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Spock was constantly sarcastic though.
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Oct 17, 2018 23:40
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Not this time!!!!
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Oct 18, 2018 00:01
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Hey thread, I want to paint this robot transformer panther like it has slick shiny black armor panels. Can I get that effect with brush on gloss? Do the purple highlights work? I didn't want to add more grey but I do want the armor to read as black.  
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Oct 18, 2018 00:03
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It looks, well, purple. I dig it though. I would not recommend gloss. It will look like it’s coated in wax instead. Shiny black is a bitch and a half. Personally I would use tight gray highlighting up to dots of pure white kind of like you’re paining a lens, but on big panels like that, man, you’d have to be really good. I have seen very dark blue used for simulating deep gloss black, but never tried it myself. E: here’s what I was getting at. https://garethnicholasblog.wordpress.com/2016/10/04/painting-tutorial-part-2-shiny-armour/ Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 00:38 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 00:35
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Well poo poo, I think thats a little beyond me but thanks for the link. Maybe I can experiment on something else till I get a handle on it.
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Oct 18, 2018 00:41
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Chance II posted:Well poo poo, I think thats a little beyond me but thanks for the link. Maybe I can experiment on something else till I get a handle on it. Yeah it’s tough to get down. But hey I do like the look so personally I’d just build up the purple highlights and call it good.
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Oct 18, 2018 00:46
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Booley posted:It will ruin your brush in short order, use it with a junk brush. Is that metals in general or VMA, specifically?
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Oct 18, 2018 02:34
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I use VMA with my nice brushes and it doesn't bother them
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Oct 18, 2018 02:52
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Floppychop posted:Is that metals in general or VMA, specifically? it's vallejo metal color specifically. Metals in general are a bit harder on brushes, but that specific line is super thin and dries very quickly, meaning it wicks up into the ferrule and dries there.
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Oct 18, 2018 02:57
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VolatileSky posted:That's what I do! Except by hand What method do you use to cut that stuff? I have a hard time getting anything close to a good edge when I try
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Oct 18, 2018 03:35
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Speckled Jim posted:What method do you use to cut that stuff? I have a hard time getting anything close to a good edge when I try The excell razor blades (usually a #11 double honed or #2 straight edge blades). Carefully measure and pencil my cut lines onto the plastic. Use a metal straight edge to CAREFULLY score the plastic along the pencil lines, lightly 3-5 times. It's about scoring gently, especially on the first pass before you make a mark, if you use too much pressure your blade has a tendency to wander, and subsequent passes want to follow that wrong line. (score in the opposite direction to negate this) I mean it's kind of by feel, if it's thin (like 0.5mm to 1mm), you can score it 2-3 times, and bend/snap it along that line. But if you have more intricate stuff, you have to carefully cut through by constantly scoring the plastic, or it might break/tear at stress points. Thicker stuff (1.5mm and above) is awful to cut and I've lost track of how many times a blade has skipped out of the material and into a finger. For a cleaner line you can keep scoring until you cut through. Any exposed edges will take a light sanding anyways though, but the cleaner you are on the earlier steps, the less work later on. Hopefully that helps?
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Oct 18, 2018 04:51
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VolatileSky posted:The excell razor blades (usually a #11 double honed or #2 straight edge blades). Great advise! I've used a knife in the past and it's good to know it's a viable option. Thanks!
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Oct 18, 2018 05:18
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VolatileSky posted:I'm seriously interested in how well this works out. 2mm is incredibly thick and relatively expensive unless you want something to be able to withstand being thrown against a wall. I use 0.5mm because it's the easiest to cut, sand and work with by hand, but 1mm might be a happy medium for you and cut down on cutting time. Yeah 2mm is really thick but it's for a Halloween costume for my 5 year old, so.... You really have to dial in the laser and don't cut all the way through. There's some melting on the top giving a slightly chamfered efge, but I think it's mainly because I cut so deep. For 1mm I think you'd get really good results. Still if I do a 2mm cutout, the pieces just snap in and stay together without glue, so that's already pretty good. Once this whole Halloween panic is over I'll try using it for building some ham related stuff. Ilor posted:What laser are you using to cut styrene? Most CO2 lasers warn you not to cut that stuff because it off-gases chlorine which is damaging to both the laser's optics and, you know, your lungs. I actually thought quite a bit about this before doing it 🙂 Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 06:51 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 06:44
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How do people think this person achieved this white effect? Because that sort of effect where it seems like the white is a layer of paint that’s been applied over the underlying black enameled surface of the armor, and is imperfectly adhering and chipping and wearing off, is exactly how I’ve wanted my Raven Guard honor markings to look for significantly longer than I’ve known either of those pictures existed. Looks like... underlying dark layer of heavy warm-ish grey sponge chipping followed by a lighter layer of white sponge chipping? Stephenls fucked around with this message at 08:42 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 08:40
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Booley posted:it's vallejo metal color specifically. Metals in general are a bit harder on brushes, but that specific line is super thin and dries very quickly, meaning it wicks up into the ferrule and dries there. Aren't the metallic flakes in it also actual metal? That's probably harder on brushes too.
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Oct 18, 2018 09:28
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Dr Hemulen posted:more laser cutting Out of curiosity, are you using the cutter at your local hacker hovel, or do you have your own? If it's the latter, what kind and how many millions did it cost you? I keep contemplating saving my pennies and making a grievous financial mistake, but I can never find a machine domestically that I both like and can afford.
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Oct 18, 2018 13:11
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The Moon Monster posted:Aren't the metallic flakes in it also actual metal? That's probably harder on brushes too. No, that's the alcohol based Liquid Gold line.
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Oct 18, 2018 13:43
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grassy gnoll posted:Out of curiosity, are you using the cutter at your local hacker hovel, or do you have your own? If it's the latter, what kind and how many millions did it cost you? It's the local maker-space. Aside from being expensive it's also very large. I think we got it from China actually. For doing thin sheets of styrene, I'm wondering if you could just use one of the cheap engravers (coupled with some sort of extraction system - it might not be chlorine, but I'm sure the vapors aren't healthy) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/200...2851922174.html Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Oct 18, 2018 |
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Oct 18, 2018 14:10
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Stephenls posted:How do people think this person achieved this white effect? You could accomplish this in a ton of ways. Easiest way to me seems undercoat that greyish, then stipple on the off white. I'm not a fan though. The effect is invisible unless you look extremely closely, and then it just looks like sloppy painting.
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Oct 18, 2018 16:36
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AFAIK you can’t use actual metal flakes in anything but alcohol based paints or it rusts up. Which is you have be careful and not accidentally dip a water brush in liquid gold pots or it fucks em up.
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Oct 18, 2018 17:39
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Mugaaz posted:You could accomplish this in a ton of ways. Easiest way to me seems undercoat that greyish, then stipple on the off white. I'm not a fan though. The effect is invisible unless you look extremely closely, and then it just looks like sloppy painting. Sorry, that's actually the wrong link. I meant this white effect.
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Oct 18, 2018 18:54
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At a guess, I'd say stippling with two (maybe three?) successively lighter colors of grey/white, concentrating on the edges/points as the color gets lighter.
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Oct 18, 2018 22:53
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Looks like it got a blast from a clogged airbrush and he said "good enough".
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Oct 19, 2018 00:41
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VolatileSky posted:Looks like it got a blast from a clogged airbrush and he said "good enough". some of it looks like intentionally clogged airbrush, other parts look like stippling.
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Oct 19, 2018 00:44
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Been working on my first ork for Kill Team. Never painted an Ork before so C&C would be ace! 
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Oct 19, 2018 12:32
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Keep doing that.
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Oct 19, 2018 13:58
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ijyt posted:Keep doing that. 
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Oct 19, 2018 14:48
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Did another Darkest Dungeon mini, the Crusader:
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Oct 19, 2018 15:11
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 Most recent WIP of my Punk Eldar/Elf head project. Greenstuff sculpting is still a massive pain in the rear end and I think I have to do more of it to get rid of the obvious seams and fix the hair.  Also I still don't know what to use it for.
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Oct 19, 2018 16:19
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Since I finally got a (hopefully) stable job and made some money  , I made myself a Miniature Market account and I'm planning on buying a set of the Chaos Warriors/Slaves to Darkness, along with some paints or other minis to get it up to the $99 free shipping point.I wanted to ask beforehand, though, what sort of paints I should get. I've been mostly sticking to Citadel paints, since they seem to work pretty solidly (I was impressed with how well the Mephiston Red worked), and I thought maybe I do well with the brown and yellow colors (Rhinox Hide and Averland Sunset). However, I wanted to ask if there was something in a different brand that'd be worth checking out. (At the moment, I'm thinking about getting Abaddon Black and Nuln Oil, even though I still have vials of Army Painter Midnight Blade Black and Glauerdoom Shade). I've wanted to try Vallejo stuff for quite a while, but I was told a couple of their paints are iffy (I think it was the Dark Angels Dark Green equivalent I asked about). I've seen a couple of videos where they use the Vallejo Liquid Gold, and it looks really good, but it sounds like there's a lot more work that goes into using that compared to the regular metallic paint (the Liquid Gold uses actual metal particles, so you can't thin it with water, else the paint will rust). I don't know what their washes are like, but I was planning on getting Reikland Fleshshade and maybe Agrax Earthshade, so I was wondering if there was something in the Vallejo line that would match well with those.
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Oct 20, 2018 04:10
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I use entirely Vallejo paints and would recommend them to anyone looking to try them out, I'd steer toward the air lines since they're pre-thinned to a good handbrush consistency. Skip the Metal Color line as it's too thin for handbrushing (though airbrushes like a dream if you're base coating). Haven't personally tried their washes since I use Army Painter.
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Oct 20, 2018 04:31
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Colored Paints: Vallejo or Scale75 both good. Vallejo Air is pretty much pre-thinned. Scale75 is much thicker and needs thinning. Washes: GW, or Army Painter both great. Vallejo is ok. Metallics: Scale 75 for all bronze/gold. Scale 75 or Vallejo Air for all steel/silver. Technical Paints (blood, ooze, etc): GW only Basing Gels: Try to stick with Vallejo, GW is also good but like 4000% the price of Vallejo by volume. GW does have some basing textures that aren't available elsewhere though.
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Oct 20, 2018 04:37
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If you're on a budget, Vallejo Game COLOR or Vallejo Model COLOR are probably the best bang for your buck paints. Vallejo Game Air and Model Air paints are the same as the Color lines, they're just pre-thinned, so you get less paint overall than the unthinned Color line. If on the other hand you've got more free money for hobby supplies than free time to work on your hobbies, I find that the Air line is a convenient time saver. If you're doing GW models and want to exactly match the official colors, then you probably want to stick with Citadel paints. Citadel are high quality paint, but they're expensive and come in crappy flip top pots instead of dropper bottles which tends to lower the paint's longevity. I've never used Scale 75, but from what I've heard they are not very beginner friendly, requiring a lot of thinning to get proper results.
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Oct 20, 2018 06:50
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What's the best place to buy Scale75 metallic paints in the UK? Firestorm Games doesn't seem to carry them
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Oct 20, 2018 12:41
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