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Hixson posted:ur poo poo Post your models loser
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Nov 22, 2018 18:26
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I just finished another ork vehicle, these are super satisfying to paint. Building them is another matter, possibly one of the least fun kits to clean and build I have ever done. 
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Nov 22, 2018 23:53
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I didn't end up giving the Chaos Warriors another light spray due to the weather, but I brought one in to paint. Here's the result:     This was my first attempt at trying to do a edge highlight (with a metallic, like in the WHTV video) and...  I will note that with the Vallejo paint I was using (Silver) I thinned it in water at first, but then started using as it was out of the bottle (albeit while brushing it on the palette so it wasn't as thick) because it didn't spread out as much, and I could control where it went more. The problem might be the brushes. I bought an Army Painter Starter Brush set, but I think that I didn't clean them properly or let too much paint get into the ferrule, since I don't have as fine as a tip on the small detail brush anymore.
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Nov 23, 2018 02:14
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R0ckfish posted:I just finished another ork vehicle, these are super satisfying to paint. Building them is another matter, possibly one of the least fun kits to clean and build I have ever done. When the gently caress did mekboy dragsters come back? Did GW re-grow a sense of fun and humor? Paint looks great too, I guess
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Nov 23, 2018 09:00
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Max Wilco posted:I didn't end up giving the Chaos Warriors another light spray due to the weather, but I brought one in to paint. Here's the result: Edge highlighting is hard. I recommend picking up a bottle of Liquitex Flow-Aid or Windsor & Newton Flow Improver and using very small amounts of that to thin your paint before edge-highlighting (like, put a drop of it on your palette and dip your brush into it, then dip the brush into the paint; don't put a whole drop of it into the paint); also, get a roll of paper towels and keep one beside you when painting, and when doing delicate work like edges, dab your brush on it after loading the brush up to get excess paint out of the brush so there's less of it to spread out onto the mini as you're painting it. Those are all things that worked for me; before I tried them I felt like I had no idea what I was doing when doing edges.
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Nov 23, 2018 09:09
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Max Wilco posted:d out as much, and I could control where it went more. When you're painting, the paint should always be thinned, and in the case if highlighting and layering even more so. The paint will flood over the model if you load it, so once you've got some on your brush wipe the brush on the pallet a few times to keep the point and drag off the excess. When you're painting the highlight you should be able to drag the paint along the edge, pulling it to the brightest area. e.g. on the raised bit of the warrior's cloak drag the lighter colour towards the most raised bit to give the illusion that the brightest bit is the most raised, repeat in both directions ending in the middle so the paint accumulates mostly there. The great thing about doing it this way is you can build up the intensity by repeating the highlights using the same colour, and the contrast between highlights will be more subtle due to the translucency. Ninja Edit: Efb; kinda
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Nov 23, 2018 09:17
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Bohun painted The Stranger!
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Nov 24, 2018 02:16
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Hey thread, I'm looking for a case to display a single model (an Eldar Farseer to be exact). So far all I've really found is stuff like this Chessex 'case' that's clearly just a dice box resold as a case. That'll work in a pinch, but I'm hoping someone knows of something better. This is for a holiday gift, so I don't mind splurging a bit. Thx in advance for any help.
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Nov 24, 2018 05:51
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Fyrbrand posted:Hey thread, I'm looking for a case to display a single model (an Eldar Farseer to be exact). So far all I've really found is stuff like this Chessex 'case' that's clearly just a dice box resold as a case. That'll work in a pinch, but I'm hoping someone knows of something better. This is for a holiday gift, so I don't mind splurging a bit. Thx in advance for any help. I bet wherever you live has a trophy shop. They'll probably have something.
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Nov 24, 2018 05:56
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Fyrbrand posted:Hey thread, I'm looking for a case to display a single model (an Eldar Farseer to be exact). So far all I've really found is stuff like this Chessex 'case' that's clearly just a dice box resold as a case. That'll work in a pinch, but I'm hoping someone knows of something better. This is for a holiday gift, so I don't mind splurging a bit. Thx in advance for any help. Michael's sells cases for sports memorabilia. They may have one smaller than the one meant for a baseball. Don't forget to take your 40-50% off coupon.
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Nov 24, 2018 06:30
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Fyrbrand posted:Hey thread, I'm looking for a case to display a single model (an Eldar Farseer to be exact). So far all I've really found is stuff like this Chessex 'case' that's clearly just a dice box resold as a case. That'll work in a pinch, but I'm hoping someone knows of something better. This is for a holiday gift, so I don't mind splurging a bit. Thx in advance for any help. Lifehack!: turn a jar upside down, now it's a clioche
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Nov 24, 2018 07:36
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So heres a question about an odd issue im running into. Recently on a few models ive found that my washes are acting a bit weird, they seem to bead up and flow like the model has become water repellant or something. This is after several layers of paint mind so it's not like im trying to apply them directly to plastic. The only thing I can think of is that I used flow improver to shift over some paint from the original pots to dropper bottles and I may have used too much when moving one partricular paint that I just applied before this wash issue. Is it actually possible that too much flow improver can give paint weird properties even after its dried?
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Nov 26, 2018 10:03
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Mr Teatime posted:So heres a question about an odd issue im running into. Recently on a few models ive found that my washes are acting a bit weird, they seem to bead up and flow like the model has become water repellant or something. This is after several layers of paint mind so it's not like im trying to apply them directly to plastic. The only thing I can think of is that I used flow improver to shift over some paint from the original pots to dropper bottles and I may have used too much when moving one partricular paint that I just applied before this wash issue. Is it actually possible that too much flow improver can give paint weird properties even after its dried? Flow improver is basically water + detergent, so if anything it should reduce that effect, I know mine does. Do you handle your minis with your fingers, as opposed to using a painting handle or blutacking the base to a foreign object? Skin oils can do that.
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Nov 26, 2018 12:16
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Speaking of that Eldar...not bad considering I've never done one before, and rarely paint red or white.  
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Nov 27, 2018 01:27
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Ace stuff. 
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Nov 27, 2018 01:50
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Cross-postin' from the 40k threadMikey Purp posted:Finally found the time to finish up some models over Thanksgiving break.
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Nov 27, 2018 02:05
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Mikey Purp posted:Finally found the time to finish up some models over Thanksgiving break.  So much good poo poo on the last couple of pages!
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Nov 27, 2018 14:03
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If anyone has been waiting for a Beholder model, Miniature Market currently has them back in stock.
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Nov 27, 2018 22:29
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x-posting etc..richyp posted:Have a snotty fella
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Nov 28, 2018 20:34
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Getting back into the swing of things now that I've finished the campaign for Red Dead Redemption. Painted up some of the laser arm on my Preceptor. Touched up the photo a bit cause of the low light. 
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Nov 29, 2018 19:19
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Zuul the Cat posted:Getting back into the swing of things now that I've finished the campaign for Red Dead Redemption. The rest of the arm is so tight ... can you clean up the stripes?
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Nov 29, 2018 19:37
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Zuul the Cat posted:Getting back into the swing of things now that I've finished the campaign for Red Dead Redemption. Metal looks really gorgeous, any special techniques to get that look?
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Nov 29, 2018 19:41
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richyp posted:x-posting etc.. Great painting as usually Richy. Biggest critique is you used the blue color for the clear sight glass in the goo pack (which looks great) and you used it again for what appears to be an opaque goo tube? A different color for the tube would go a long way 
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Nov 29, 2018 20:10
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Hixson posted:Great painting as usually Richy. Biggest critique is you used the blue color for the clear sight glass in the goo pack (which looks great) and you used it again for what appears to be an opaque goo tube? Thanks dude, funnily enough the tube was a lot darker blue when I started but I went overly aggressive blending in Temple Guard blue to the point where it ended up almost the same colour as the tank, It's also been pointed out several times now, that the tank looks like a painting of a meadow (thanks wife yay), and more recently that its the Windows XP wallpaper, so if I do ever come back to this guy I'll probably change the blue on the tank There's also a very subtle dark blue glow around the coil (mostly visible on the green armour between the coil and his head. The blue of the glow was the original colour of the pipe before I went blend crazy.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:16
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Doctor Zero posted:The rest of the arm is so tight ... can you clean up the stripes? Yeah, i'm not done with it yet I still need to go through and do the battery casings, brass parts and some other stuff. I'll definitely clean up the lines to make them just a bit sharper. Revelation 2-13 posted:Metal looks really gorgeous, any special techniques to get that look? Thanks! My metallics are super easy - Leadbelcher spray, then nuln oil wash and blowdry it on high heat. Agrax wash in spots, then blowdry it with high heat. Then just a few coats of necron compound drybrushing. Easy!
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Nov 29, 2018 20:24
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Primed Alpharius with stynylrez Black, followed with a Tamiya Bare Metal Silver coat. Normally I would start adding the tamiya clear blue and green layers, however I am wondering if I should gloss coat first? I'm worried about the alcohol based thinner I'll be using will hurt the underlying Silver coat.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:03
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I first saw that and got really confused because it looked to me like one of the old white metal Games Workshop models but I recognized alpharius. My first thought was what the gently caress that forgeworld model is a reproduction?
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Nov 30, 2018 00:32
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Zuul the Cat posted:Yeah, i'm not done with it yet I still need to go through and do the battery casings, brass parts and some other stuff. I'll definitely clean up the lines to make them just a bit sharper. Ah! Okay cool then.
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Nov 30, 2018 00:34
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Eifert Posting posted:I first saw that and got really confused because it looked to me like one of the old white metal Games Workshop models but I recognized alpharius. It does look like one of the old ones now that you mention it. FW released the Alpharius model earlier this year, this is a 3d print of it so it will be slightly different.
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Nov 30, 2018 00:51
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goodness posted:Primed Alpharius with stynylrez Black, followed with a Tamiya Bare Metal Silver coat. Normally I would start adding the tamiya clear blue and green layers, however I am wondering if I should gloss coat first? I'm worried about the alcohol based thinner I'll be using will hurt the underlying Silver coat. Yeah, I would say put a gloss coat down. Is that a 3D scan of the forgeworld model? And an Anycubic Photon print? I continue to be very impressed.
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Nov 30, 2018 02:05
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Failson posted:Yeah, I would say put a gloss coat down. The model was on thingiverse, if it's not a 3d scan it is pretty drat close. Anycubic Photon print.
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Nov 30, 2018 03:04
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Finished most of my titans. 
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Nov 30, 2018 03:17
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panascope posted:Finished most of my titans. I still think reavers are terrible looking but that red is super nice
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Nov 30, 2018 03:20
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I painted some primaris.       
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Nov 30, 2018 05:21
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Booley posted:I painted some primaris. Very nicely done, is the mud done with all sponge weathering?
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Nov 30, 2018 08:51
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Conan the Librarian posted:Very nicely done, is the mud done with all sponge weathering? There's some sponge weathering for chipping, but the legs are mostly pigments.
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Nov 30, 2018 15:13
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Hixson posted:Great painting as usually Richy. Biggest critique is you used the blue color for the clear sight glass in the goo pack (which looks great) and you used it again for what appears to be an opaque goo tube?
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Nov 30, 2018 23:16
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I think you guys might be right, the more I stare at the model the more I think the pipe needs to be the same purple/lilac as the Nugling on the base, something to do with the balance of colours. If I get a chance over the weekend I'll repaint the pipe and see how it turns out.
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Dec 1, 2018 00:06
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Booley posted:There's some sponge weathering for chipping, but the legs are mostly pigments. How do you apply the pigments to get that thick speckled look? Granted I’ve only tried a couple times, but when I use pigments it winds up looking like just a thin, brown paint.
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Dec 1, 2018 03:27
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Duct Tape posted:How do you apply the pigments to get that thick speckled look? Granted I’ve only tried a couple times, but when I use pigments it winds up looking like just a thin, brown paint. I'm actually using a black pigment, and i just put them on with a brush then lightly spray fixative over it
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Dec 1, 2018 04:12
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