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Yeah, they're cheap (like my old non turbo ute is worth like $500  )Problem with them is that they are a 4L I6, pretty long (ie wouldn't fit in an old Japanese car), very very tall (wouldn't fit in a BMW as they are made for slant 6s). But besides that, if it can fit, it's the weapon of choice in Australia.
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Nov 29, 2018 14:23
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Ansith posted:Well I bought that for $1500 (aud obviously). Full engine, intake, turbo, engine loom, and ecu. Usually that would go for 2k at the moment. Oh man I realllllllllly need to look into getting one of those then and wedging it in something. Considering the performance of these things that's silly cheap.
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Nov 29, 2018 14:34
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Seat Safety Switch posted:I was really excited about picking up a used 1.5T hattersmad posted:My wife also drives a Civic with the 1.5T. Now you've got me paranoid Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah that sucks and my condolences. Hopefully Honda takes care of you. doogle posted:My wife has a ‘17 Civic EX-T (the 1.5t engine) with ~30k miles and I was driving it yesterday. I noticed that when you go full throttle there is a squeak/squeal that definitely isn’t normal. I checked forums for other reports of the noise, but found that there is a problem with the new 1.5t engines and oil dilution from fuel seeping past the rings. I checked the oil and it is about an inch over the full dot. I took a sample of the oil to send to black stone, but is there anything else I should do? The dealer visit is tomorrow. She drives about 100 miles a day and we picked this car because we figured it would last 6 years/200k miles. It definitely won’t with fuel for oil. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but Honda is well aware of the issue, and calls it "normal operation". They even published a lovely youtube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fVdKNRgzGT8 The NEED to take care of this, but right now they are really trying to deny that oil dilution is an issue.
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Nov 29, 2018 14:47
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"...typically vapourises, gets directed back to the cylinder and burned off..." How exactly??
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Nov 29, 2018 14:54
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Olympic Mathlete posted:"...typically vapourises, gets directed back to the cylinder and burned off..."
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Nov 29, 2018 14:56
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Closed PCV then. Was just weird how they explained everything else but just kinda handwaved that bit.
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Nov 29, 2018 15:12
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Normally when you heat the oil up it should work it's way out but if it's dumping so much fuel that it's showing on the dipstick then 
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Nov 29, 2018 16:27
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Olympic Mathlete posted:Closed PCV then. Was just weird how they explained everything else but just kinda handwaved that bit. Probably because 99.99999% of the population has no idea what a PCV is. I'll be curious what what the oil analysis is. In diesels this is fairly common (according to Ford (haha)). And maybe it isn't as bad it looks. Perhaps the level to take it up the dipstick an inch is basically a cup.
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Nov 29, 2018 16:52
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:And maybe it isn't as bad it looks. Perhaps the level to take it up the dipstick an inch is basically a cup. I was under the impression the low to high dots on sticks were usually around a litre/.87 quarts for you mentalists over the pond. Dude up thread is saying his read an inch above the full mark which is loving nuts.
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Nov 29, 2018 17:16
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Olympic Mathlete posted:I was under the impression the low to high dots on sticks were usually around a litre/.87 quarts for you mentalists over the pond. Dude up thread is saying his read an inch above the full mark which is loving nuts. Not trying to argue. And definitely not giving Honda a pass. Most OEM's can't create a decent dipstick. Hundreds of stories. Round/flat, need Mercon V blah blah blah.
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Nov 29, 2018 17:22
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Yeah I ain't arguing either 
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Nov 29, 2018 17:27
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I had the dealership measure the drained oil and they reported “just over” 4 quarts drained. The oil capacity is 3.7 quarts. The oil maintenance reminder claimed the oil had 60% life left. My wife was following the maintenance recommended by Honda, which is 20% (ends up being ~8k miles). I think she’s going to need to change it every 3k miles, which turns into monthly with her commute. An oil change is ~$50 at the dealer and I’m going to get them done there in case there is a problem down the road. They still have the car at the dealership investigating the engine noise and I’ll report back here what happens. They do have a bulletin for this issue so hopefully everything works out. If not, maybe she will wind up in a corolla. Edit: apparently what exacerbates the problem is cold weather, short trips, and low rpm. My wife averages ~42mpg and drives pretty conservatively. The CVT keeps rpms below 2k most of the time, which is probably why part of the fix for the Chinese market was to reprogram the tcu/ecu to keep rpms higher during cruising to help burn off more fuel. doogle fucked around with this message at 18:00 on Nov 29, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 17:49
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doogle posted:I had the dealership measure the drained oil and they reported “just over” 4 quarts drained. The oil capacity is 3.7 quarts. The oil maintenance reminder claimed the oil had 60% life left. My wife was following the maintenance recommended by Honda, which is 20% (ends up being ~8k miles). I think she’s going to need to change it every 3k miles, which turns into monthly with her commute. An oil change is ~$50 at the dealer and I’m going to get them done there in case there is a problem down the road. Time for an Italian tune up every weekend or so
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Nov 29, 2018 19:02
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clutchpuck posted:I am having a hell of a time finding high performance street tires for these stock-sized 13"ers There's pretty much zero since Yokohama stopped making the AVS-Intermediates in 205/60-13. You can still find decent 13" tires in Japan, though. No idea what import costs would be on that. Olympic Mathlete posted:*learning* The FC 5x4.5" bolt pattern is easy enough to find wheels for, but yeah, all the period/vintage stuff for Japanese cars tends to be 4-bolt. I'm most likely going to do the FC "big brake" thing on my '79, but use the non-turbo 4-bolt hubs and redrill the Turbo II rotors. Also won't have to fiddle with the rear axles that way. The GSL-SE stuff is all a bolt in, but the trick is finding a GSL-SE to steal it from. They're the rarest of first-gens. Another option would be the big brake conversion I mentioned above, since that can be done on any S3 (US '84-5) front strut. Still leaves the rears needing to be redrilled or re-axled (Moser makes FB axles with the SE pattern, or the 5x4.5 pattern as well. For that matter, I've no idea what the availability of stock replacement SE axles is.) Ansith posted:Bought my first turbo! Awesome! I'm going to need for you to revive your thread, now. Pity we can't get those here in the US. TheFonz posted:Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but Honda is well aware of the issue, and calls it "normal operation". They even published a lovely youtube video: That's not normal operation. At least, the part where it makes the level higher - the first part is correct, and part of what a PCV system is for. Gasoline is a terrible lubricant. Are they just waiting for the inevitable bearing failures to start showing up for warranty work? The Door Frame posted:Time for an Italian tune up every weekend or so There you go. "But dear, I have to flog it shamelessly to save it!"
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Nov 29, 2018 20:24
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Installed some dollar tree mods on my lunch break. 
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Nov 29, 2018 20:28
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Ansith posted:Bought my first turbo! Noice, time to give some of Commodore boys a scare with that monster in the XC.
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Nov 29, 2018 23:14
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Darchangel posted:Awesome! There will be a new thread, this time I might actually put the motor in. I'll get it going when I start putting the new diff in. It'll still be a little while before I throw the motor in the car because there's a bit of money to spend in a high mount turbo manifold (gently caress cutting into my shock tower) and associated bits. I can tell going turbo was the right choice, last night my mate who is big into Evos drove an hour up to come check out what I bought and was about as excited about it as I am. You Am I posted:Noice, time to give some of Commodore boys a scare with that monster in the XC. Already got a HSV SV300 in my sights, he loves telling me how slow the XC is. Ansith fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Nov 29, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 23:21
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So while out of town, was driving GF's mother's car. A few surprises on it (such as laughably misaligned headlights, a nose that looks just a bit misaligned, constant coolant smell, hood that won't open, and a horrible repaint with plenty of runs.. on a 2013 with 20k on it; drives fine, but her vision is bad enough that she shouldn't be driving - and doesn't much anymore). Biggest one was the gas cap fell apart in my hand. It was together enough to remove to fill up, and a tank will last her a couple of months. Got a new OEM cap ordered for her ('13 Corolla), and a friend will be swapping it (it's tethered, GF's mom is pushing 80).STR posted:Got the correct front pads. Turns out nothing was metal to metal (despite the horrific grinding I've had for a few weeks), though the pads on there were well past half worn. One pad was missing the warning tab, and the rotor was gouged a bit where it would have been = guess maybe it got wedged in there? So the car sat for several days in an airport parking lot, and only got driven about 15 miles after the brake work. Drove it home tonight (~200 miles), and.... yeah, brakes ain't right. Pretty sure I got the parking brake cable tight enough that it's dragging the rears, it feels like the rears are doing most of the work (front doesn't dive like you'd expect, and the brakes.... feel like I'm driving with drum brakes, it got a little squirrely on a harder stop as well). New cable ordered, and went ahead and ordered the sway bar end links I need while I was at it. Backed off the parking brake cable when I got home (didn't have time/tools in the airport parking lot). Brakes still don't feel 100% (much better once they do grab, but the pedal goes down a bit further), but probably because the fronts aren't really bedded in very well. No more grinding, at least. We have enough hills here that I'll be able to beat on them a bit during work tomorrow to hopefully get them fully broken in, and I'll do a brake fluid flush + bleed when I get the car up on the rack in a week or two (... when I also do the front struts and front sway bar end links and brake fluid flush and transaxle fluid change and and and...  ).As for the pads I had on it... there's no loving way they were ceramic (thanks Rockauto). They were sold to me as ceramic, the packaging said ceramic, but ceramics (a) shouldn't poo poo out dust like crazy and (b) shouldn't have been so worn after ~20k. It was a rotor/pad combo from "Durango", gonna call their pads utter garbage. It has Carquest Gold Ceramic pads on it now. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:48 on Nov 30, 2018 |
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Nov 30, 2018 08:45
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Good lord, how does a gas cap fall apart after 5 years on a Toyota?
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Nov 30, 2018 14:54
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Cage posted:Installed some dollar tree mods on my lunch break. Quoting just because I like this and it put a silly grin on my face this morning. Colostomy Bag posted:Good lord, how does a gas cap fall apart after 5 years on a Toyota? I would also like to know more about this. License plates delaminate here, eventually (Sudbury, ON. Google for some fun history lessons involving drifting clouds of H2SO4, but that was a long time ago (probably)). But what breaks down a gas cap?
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Nov 30, 2018 15:38
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ExecuDork posted:Quoting just because I like this and it put a silly grin on my face this morning.
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Nov 30, 2018 17:41
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Colostomy Bag posted:Good lord, how does a gas cap fall apart after 5 years on a Toyota? Well, judging by all the runs in the paint on that side, overspray on the broken gas cap, and misaligned trunk lid, I'm gonna guess it may be related to the oopsies it's been in. That car's lead a rough life. ExecuDork posted:But what breaks down a gas cap? It separated. Also, see above. Probably should have taken a photo, but the top handle portion was separated. The actual cap itself still seemed to seal, it was just a PITA to put on/take off.
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Dec 1, 2018 08:30
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Over spray on a gas cap? Didn't realize Earl Sheib is still in business. Kind of miss those commercials. I'll paint any car, any color, for $69.99.
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Dec 1, 2018 15:18
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Printed some brake ducts that fit into stock blanking plates of my front bumper
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Dec 1, 2018 23:39
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Getting the truck back into drivable condition while the weather is nice in Texas (ie not 100+ and not freezing) Bolted the back seat down with it's new neoprene cover  Installed the shifter cover and light  Completed and screwed in new Dash  Installed new wheel  Installed bikini top rail, just waiting on the roll bar to arrive  Also did some wiring stuff that needed to be done. And since I haven't posted in this thread before, I purchased a 76 IHC Scout II Traveler a few months ago and am getting it back on the road to use as a hipster mobile in Austin, TX Pictures of Scout grill go here  
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Dec 2, 2018 00:02
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The last two posts are why I love this thread
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Dec 2, 2018 04:31
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 Began tearing into the Bongo in order to clean almost 28 years of never-cleaned construction 'stuff' out of it. Everything is vinyl which is good but bad because I keep burning through magic erasers
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Dec 2, 2018 05:18
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drat. I want a Bongo now. I had a blast beating the poo poo out of them in Korea.
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Dec 2, 2018 07:08
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Colostomy Bag posted:Over spray on a gas cap? Didn't realize Earl Sheib is still in business. Kind of miss those commercials. I'll paint any car, any color, for $69.99. 78 year old on a teacher's pension with a $750 deductible. With macular degeneration. That should say quite a bit about how the car wound up in this condition. And why she mostly uses Uber now. She'll still drive to the grocery store. That's about it, though (hence why an early build 2013 just broke 20k, and by date, was due for an oil change a few months ago... still 2000 miles away from the presumably 3000 mile rule most quick lube places go by).
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Dec 2, 2018 09:18
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Today the boy and I got the RX7 back on the road. I was away for work the past five days so parts have been sitting around. After some fiddling with the carb to get it started and idling (all the warm-up stuff was removed in the past), it ended up having a rock steady idle and we took it for a test drive. Tires are sketchy as hell but the motor RIPS. New calipers and pads and a battery tiedown went on today too. I have a stack of new tires to go on once the wheels arrive.     BRAPS!!! https://youtu.be/FbrvyCrIRrU
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Dec 2, 2018 23:47
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I hit a coyote last Christmas in the wife's car and we had it repaired through insurance. I have a feeling they missed the slightly cracked headlight (pretty hard to see, it was right on the edge. Can kind of see it at the bottom left of the first pic) so I picked one up. Easy to see the condensation in the spring. I probably could have bitched and got them to replace it but I had no proof of it happening then and well,  . I'd been dreading doing this since you have to remove the fascia but it wasn't as bad as I was expecting. old:  new:  (very) minor sacrifice to the blood god:  donezo:  It's pretty level off the shelf so I think I'm done. Also threw on some new wiper blades to go with the new windshield. Thing had about 2 different cracks in it, and got another between scheduling the appointment and getting it replaced. Surely going to need another in 1-2
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Dec 3, 2018 01:41
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 Picked up ~69~ cookie jars 
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Dec 3, 2018 04:05
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nice
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Dec 3, 2018 04:16
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Well today I locked my keys in the house but I was able to steal my own car and go get the spare using a little drift pin and a pair of pliers .
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Dec 3, 2018 19:06
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Crossposting from my thread:Grakkus posted:1st gen TTs have a couple of very common issues with their instrument cluster; pixels die in the central displays and the temperature and fuel gauges go out of alignment. In my particular case the temperature gauge was fine but I had the other two problems, the fuel gauge one being especially severe with it being nearly 50% out of whack - more of an annoyance than a problem for me, but has nearly caused some problems in the past when I let other people use the car.
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Dec 3, 2018 21:24
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Changed the oil in my 300C. When I filled it and went to check the level, the plastic dipstick broke off in the tube. Now I have to replace it and figure out how to get it out of the tube. I'll probably have to pull the whole thing.
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Dec 3, 2018 21:28
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EvilBeard posted:Changed the oil in my 300C. When I filled it and went to check the level, the plastic dipstick broke off in the tube. Now I have to replace it and figure out how to get it out of the tube. I'll probably have to pull the whole thing. I don't know how stuck it is, but the dollar store here has these for a couple bucks that could reach in there and try to grab it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24-in-Lighted-Mechanical-Pickup-Tool-70396H/206264355
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Dec 3, 2018 21:39
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Powershift posted:I don't know how stuck it is, but the dollar store here has these for a couple bucks that could reach in there and try to grab it. It's basically broken off flush with the top of the tube. I tried to get a grip on it with some pliers to no avail, and even tried sidecuts. My guess is the best bet is to pop out the tube and just push it out. It looks like it's just a retaining bolt, it's just not convenient to get to. Worst case scenario, I'll pull the tube, and then have to drill a hole and drive a screw in it to get something to grab onto and really pull on it.
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Dec 4, 2018 05:38
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EvilBeard posted:It's basically broken off flush with the top of the tube. I tried to get a grip on it with some pliers to no avail, and even tried sidecuts. My guess is the best bet is to pop out the tube and just push it out. It looks like it's just a retaining bolt, it's just not convenient to get to. Worst case scenario, I'll pull the tube, and then have to drill a hole and drive a screw in it to get something to grab onto and really pull on it. If it's soft enough plastic and it won't push further down into the tube try driving a coarse thread wood screw with a fine point into the top of it, and use pliers to grab onto the screw to haul it out. Big long drywall screws are great for this sort of thing.
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Dec 4, 2018 20:19
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EvilBeard posted:It's basically broken off flush with the top of the tube. I tried to get a grip on it with some pliers to no avail, and even tried sidecuts. My guess is the best bet is to pop out the tube and just push it out. It looks like it's just a retaining bolt, it's just not convenient to get to. Worst case scenario, I'll pull the tube, and then have to drill a hole and drive a screw in it to get something to grab onto and really pull on it. No fun, but it really does amaze me that the manufacturers can't get dipsticks right. (Ford)
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Dec 4, 2018 20:39
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