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Well this is a bummer. My extruder on my i3 Mk2S only clicks now, except that it works fine when plugged into other channels and tested. I'm also not getting any error codes and the board and fuses all look OK. Are there any simple tests that a person with no electrical skills can do to figure out what the problem is?
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Dec 12, 2018 23:34
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| # ? May 8, 2024 12:07 |
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Do other motors work on that channel? Otherwise, you've pretty much done the simple test, and it's pretty likely the driver is toast, though you could also try loosening the pinch wheel spring screws and seeing if it'll turn if there's less friction.
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Dec 13, 2018 00:05
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Could be a nozzle clog
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Dec 13, 2018 00:16
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Fayez Butts posted:Well this is a bummer. My extruder on my i3 Mk2S only clicks now, except that it works fine when plugged into other channels and tested. I'm also not getting any error codes and the board and fuses all look OK. Are there any simple tests that a person with no electrical skills can do to figure out what the problem is? I had this exact problem on the same kind of machine. It’s a bad connection on the board. Open it up and make sure the connector is seated all the way. You may have to pry off some hot glue to do it.
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Dec 13, 2018 01:55
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I meant the motor spins fine when say, connected to the x axis portickna posted:I had this exact problem on the same kind of machine. It’s a bad connection on the board. Open it up and make sure the connector is seated all the way. You may have to pry off some hot glue to do it. Cool, will do!
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Dec 13, 2018 02:20
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mattfl posted:Fillamentum Extrafill might be my new favorite filament. Got to up your game if it’s for your brother.  The puzzle customizer is pretty awesome. That is double height. I’m currently creating one that is 6 deep and 200mm high compared to 75.
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Dec 13, 2018 16:03
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ClassH posted:Got to up your game if it’s for your brother. lol that's awesome!
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Dec 13, 2018 16:11
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Here is the 6 piece 200mm tall one I was requested to make for someone. I put the normal size one in front for scale. 
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Dec 13, 2018 16:17
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ClassH posted:Here is the 6 piece 200mm tall one I was requested to make for someone. I put the normal size one in front for scale. That's evil lol
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Dec 13, 2018 16:31
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ickna posted:I had this exact problem on the same kind of machine. Its a bad connection on the board. Open it up and make sure the connector is seated all the way. You may have to pry off some hot glue to do it. So I checked the board out, the connector is soldered to it directly and looks fine. I did some more detective work and the extruder seems to spin fine counter clockwise (unloading filament) but doesn't spin clockwise. That is unless I plug it into the X axis channel, where it will spin clockwise, but not counter clockwise. Do I have to get a new RAMBo already? It's only been like a year.
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Dec 13, 2018 21:02
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Fayez Butts posted:That is unless I plug it into the X axis channel, where it will spin clockwise, but not counter clockwise. That's suspicious. If you plug one of the axis motors into the E port on the rambo are you able to drive the motor both directions? If so, it's probably not the rambo that's messed up, it's the E motor or cable
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Dec 13, 2018 23:20
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sharkytm posted:Prusa Mk3 ordered. Merry XMas to me! Take your time, and enjoy the build. You will not be disappointed. ClassH posted:Here is the 6 piece 200mm tall one I was requested to make for someone. I put the normal size one in front for scale. I require a file for this. There is much fuckery to spread!
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Dec 14, 2018 04:10
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MrDesaude posted:I require a file for this. There is much fuckery to spread! Here is the main one, this has the link if you want to generate your own custom size. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2410748 You manipulate the URL and change the numbers for sizes. eg. http://e.gg/puzzlebox.cgi/75/15/5/io you would change the 75 height number to 150 for double height, and the 15 to 20 if you wanted it wider. the I and O are inner outer as described in the main part description. You need scad to generate the STLs after the link creates the scad file. If you just want STLs to the huge rear end set this guy made them and posted STLs in his first comment. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:495845 Or I could generate smaller/custom ones if anyone wants, I have a set of double high 6 piece already generated. (for that middle ground between hard and insane amounts of filament.)
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Dec 14, 2018 08:59
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Just assembled the Mobius bowden extruder. Certainly a sexy piece. Uses 4:1 gearing to drive a Bondtech gear set, and has a tensioner, easy access to the gears and poo poo like that.
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Dec 14, 2018 |
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Dec 14, 2018 18:50
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Yeah that thing looks gorgeous. Especially in the colors that came out 
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Dec 14, 2018 18:59
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Combat Pretzel posted:Just assembled the Mobius bowden extruder. Certainly a sexy piece. Uses 4:1 gearing to drive a Bondtech gear set, and has a tensioner, easy access to the gears and poo poo like that. That looks cool and I think I found the github but are there any videos or better photos about how it works?
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Dec 14, 2018 19:01
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The Voron site has the build manuals for the extruder: http://vorondesign.com/voron_mobius2 And the rest of the printer around it: http://vorondesign.com/voron2.1 --edit: I figure this bit is of interest. You can open the thing up to clean it out. 
Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Dec 14, 2018 |
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Dec 14, 2018 19:16
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... I've just been using steppers with a built in, metal, 5:1 planetary on them in what's otherwise a direct drive setup. The Mobius is nice looking but I just do not get why people do all of this messing around with printed gears or belt reduction or whatever.
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Dec 15, 2018 01:17
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Printed gears are almost free. Belts have very low backlash. Reduction in general isn't really needed, unless you're still running a 3mm printer, or need to use a weak motor for some reason.
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Dec 15, 2018 02:23
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Has anyone cast aluminum after 3D printing with the wax filaments made for casting/easy burnout of investment? e.g. PolyCast or Print2Cast? How was the burnout process? Everything I see with PLA or similar has burnout issues and I'm wondering if this can solve that (assuming its designed such that the wax can easily flow out)
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Dec 15, 2018 03:08
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I've cast aluminum with PLA filaments - never had enough trouble that I thought it was worth going to the wax stuff.
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Dec 15, 2018 15:43
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mewse posted:That's suspicious. If you plug one of the axis motors into the E port on the rambo are you able to drive the motor both directions? If so, it's probably not the rambo that's messed up, it's the E motor or cable Just plugged the X axis into the Extruder port. It clicks in both directions.  edit: to clarify it clicks when using the move axis commands. I suspect that not enough power is being delivered. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5HTy191pPQ0&hd=1 Here's a video of the extruder being bad. I think the Unload Filament command works because the motor is being sent more power than usual, to spin it faster. Fayez Butts fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Dec 16, 2018 |
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Dec 15, 2018 23:35
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Having issues with my titan extruder. Just seeming to jam the NEMA shaft causing skipped steps and an overheating motor. I've had the blasted thing apart a whole bunch and reassembled and it's just frustrating.
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Dec 16, 2018 09:03
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Anyone have any experience with the Monoprice Mini Delta or the Select Mini V2?
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Dec 17, 2018 09:45
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Mini delta bad. Mini V2 good.
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Dec 17, 2018 10:27
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Is Select Mini Pro not an option? It’d be worth it for the bed leveling alone, though the bed is probably going to be warped still.
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Dec 17, 2018 16:18
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It's a 5" square bed, why are people so loving hung-up on auto leveling? I have a guy at work who's shopping for a 3D printer and will not consider anything but one with an auto-level bed.
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Dec 17, 2018 17:38
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Because we live in a society!
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Dec 17, 2018 17:39
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insta posted:It's a 5" square bed, why are people so loving hung-up on auto leveling? I have a guy at work who's shopping for a 3D printer and will not consider anything but one with an auto-level bed. Anecdotal but I had to level my MPSM's bed almost every time I used it, and it required a hex key to do it. My i3 clone I've only needed to level, like, 3 times this year, all after changing the hardware somehow. Idk if monoprice has fixed this with revisions but it was my #2 complaint about that little machine
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Dec 17, 2018 17:50
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Queen Combat posted:Mini delta bad. Yep. cephalopods posted:Anecdotal but I had to level my MPSM's bed almost every time I used it, and it required a hex key to do it. My i3 clone I've only needed to level, like, 3 times this year, all after changing the hardware somehow. My Mini v2 has never needed leveling. It arrived level and I've never hosed with it. My "regular" V2, now, that fucker was warped.
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Dec 17, 2018 18:05
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insta posted:It's a 5" square bed, why are people so loving hung-up on auto leveling? I have a guy at work who's shopping for a 3D printer and will not consider anything but one with an auto-level bed. Becasue 0.1mm is .004 inches. This is something you can't easily spot. And it makes a big difference. The defualt prusa "first layer" is 0.2mm. Being off by just a little, makes a rather large difference. Bed leveling takes time. And if you don't check it every time, you need to wait until you fail a print to know it's wrong. Auto bed leveling completely removes the "my bed isn't level" reason for prints failing. And it removes all of the time calibrating the printer. Heck, the prusa software even compensates for frame racking. We have plastics (PLA, PETG) that just kinda "always work". We have extruders that are dead reliable. We have frame designs that are consistant. The last bit, is giving the printer a way to self calibrate... Then the only thing left, is cleaning the bed. I use a set of 3d printers at the local hackerspace. For me to print, all I do is insert my filament, purge the nozzle, and go. I've not needed to calibrate anything. Ever.
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Dec 17, 2018 18:22
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Considering the drama I keep having with my printbed leveling, I'd sure be glad to have auto leveling.
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Dec 17, 2018 21:07
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I also have a co-worker who really wants one with auto leveling. I have both the Wanhao and Monoprice brand Dup i3/Maker select. Even with a glass plate, I found I could only really get 1/2 to 3/4ths of the bed level enough for 0.2mm first layers. The build plate just wasn't flat enough. I've flashed both to marlin, and use the manual mesh bed leveling. That alone makes life so much easier. I can now lay down a 0.12mm first layer that only varies by 0.01mm thick. I also keep an eye on the bottom of the prints afterwards. If the line between layers gets too big, or too squished/invisible, I know to adjust that part of the mesh. I'll print a brim at the nearby points, measure with calipers, and adjust the points as needed. Pretty easy to spot issues before they get bad enough to mess up a print.
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Dec 17, 2018 21:30
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Rexxed posted:I don't have mine yet but some of the lists I've seen have some good ones. My Ender 3 will be here after Xmas - my first 3d printer. Thanks for the link dump, I am pretty thrilled, and also hope I haven't made a huge mistake. I assume that table stability is a major requirement for printer location so I am also clearing work bench space.
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Dec 17, 2018 22:31
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I posted last month about making a replacement pulley thing for my friend's cruise control. The Taulman Alloy 910 I bought was way out of dimension and kept clogging my hotend (I measured some pieces of it at just over 2mm in diameter) so I had to buy something different to finish that project. Anyway, Taulman was very responsive to my email about the filament and I got a replacement roll from them a couple of weeks ago. I finally have something to print with it and it's turning out well. These are tiny screws and despite nylon's reputation for being warpy the Alloy 910 is staying very accurate. These screw threads aren't perfect but they're extremely close and work in the part without any cleanup. The front janky one was done first with no cooling fan while the four others used 50% cooling fan and turned out much better. They're for this utility knife handle. I made a PLA one but I decided to have some fun and make some with different plastics and colors as gifts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2521858
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Dec 18, 2018 03:36
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Wow, those look really nice.
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Dec 18, 2018 04:04
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Nylons (or nylon copolymers like 910) machine really well and can be threaded beautifully with taps and dies. Those threads do look great (what layer resolution is that?), but if you feel like it, next time try printing them as straight cylinders with an external diameter about .004" (0.1mm) smaller than the major diameter, then run a die down and see what you get. So e.g. 7.9mm for an 8mm bolt. You might have to increase the number of perimeters to give yourself a good wall to cut into, but the results are usually fantastic.
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Dec 18, 2018 06:34
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Sagebrush posted:Nylons (or nylon copolymers like 910) machine really well and can be threaded beautifully with taps and dies. Those threads do look great (what layer resolution is that?), but if you feel like it, next time try printing them as straight cylinders with an external diameter about .004" (0.1mm) smaller than the major diameter, then run a die down and see what you get. So e.g. 7.9mm for an 8mm bolt. You might have to increase the number of perimeters to give yourself a good wall to cut into, but the results are usually fantastic. I don't happen to have a tap and die set (it's on my amazon wish list but I keep buying 3d printing stuff and computer stuff), but I'll keep that in mind because I'm really liking the nylons I've used so far, except the Gizmodorks which seems to be more pure nylon and warped badly because I don't have a bed that can reach their suggested 140'C. I'm sure I'll use nylon for more stuff now that I know how it behaves because while I like PETG there's just a whole lot of cleanup involved with it. I wish Nylon was cheaper but I understand that it's a specialty material. At least with PETG there's some brands that are about the same price as PLA. It's interesting that in Amazon's push to make Amazon brand versions of everything they've made very affordable AmazonBasics PETG. My roll of blue was $16.99 during a sale. I feel like investing in an all metal hotend was a good choice since I print at 255-260 for CF Nylon, Alloy 910, and 240ish for PETG. The screws were printed at .1mm layer height (.15 first layer). I usually print everything at .2mm unless it needs to be detailed. I printed them pretty slowly at 30mm/s because my belts are getting a little loose and I'm finding slowing things down is a good idea for stuff I want to look nice. I plan to give my Maker Select some maintenance when I get the Ender 3 setup and all this holiday printing is done.
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Dec 18, 2018 06:58
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If you plan on using nylon a lot, a good thing to invest in is a cheap toaster oven. Nylon is extremely hygroscopic, and there's a noticeable difference in print quality between a totally dry roll and one that's sat out for even a day or two at 70% humidity (our lab). There's only so much that the dessicant packs can do, but 12 hours at 180F will dry the filament out nicely and give you good smooth extrusion.
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Dec 18, 2018 07:18
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| # ? May 8, 2024 12:07 |
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Sagebrush posted:If you plan on using nylon a lot, a good thing to invest in is a cheap toaster oven. Nylon is extremely hygroscopic, and there's a noticeable difference in print quality between a totally dry roll and one that's sat out for even a day or two at 70% humidity (our lab). There's only so much that the dessicant packs can do, but 12 hours at 180F will dry the filament out nicely and give you good smooth extrusion. Oh yeah, after the 3d printer filament drying systems made the rounds on youtube I bought a food dehydrator that is exactly the same as one of those except for the container part on the top. You can just cut out the grid of a couple of the trays to make filament rolls fit. $100+ filament drying system: https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/printdry-filament-drying-system/sk/MNXQRWQC $40 food dehydrator: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0188X0UT6/
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Dec 18, 2018 07:24
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