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I'm no where near skilled enough to paint eyes onto those wings. I just painted the pustules on them.
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Jan 4, 2019 01:51
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Don't forget to come check out the miniature sculpting thread (Here) and learn to make your own minis! Could use a few new people in there!
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Jan 4, 2019 02:24
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Been meaning to post a photo of the assembled Primaris Dreadnought.    Putting it together was fun (I wish more models were push-fit, since I don't have to hassle with the plastic glue). One thing I notice, though, is that there are seams where the pieces meet, and I'm wondering if that some where you need something like Green Goo or whatever the modelling putty is called. I'm thinking about stopping at the GW store on my way home from work tomorrow to buy a spray-can of Mephiston Red. My intent was to paint it in Blood Angel colors, since I've still got my Blood Angel Tactical Squad to assemble and I figured it would make it easier. At the same time, I'm thinking I should just wait and order it online through MiniatureMarket or something since A.) It would be cheaper, and B.) the weather's not been real suited to spray-painting right now. (either way, I see myself buying more minis to paint) I'm also wondering how a color spray would come out since the plastic is blue. EDIT: I also want to ask about P3 paints before I forget, and what's good/bad about them. I was looking into them a bit the other day, and the one upside I saw to P3 over Citadel was that you get much more paint for a slightly cheaper price ( P3 seems to be around 25˘ less per jar, but jars are 18ml vs Citadel's 12ml) Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 03:04 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 02:56
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P3 Paints are fine, I have a handful in my collection. Are you a beginner painter? Are you wanting to paint up things to match GW schemes or are you doing your own thing? I would generally recommend GW paints to beginners, not for price or because they are better but because most tutorials surround stuff you want to paint (Space marines) will have GW paints. They are usually the easiest paints to find and the quality is good. I've been painting for almost 20 years now starting out with GW paints. I started buying up non GW brands, having an idea in my head that a certain brand what THE brand to use. You realise that you find paints from all different ranges that work for you. My paint collections now is GW (Hex screw top to current), P3, Coat D Arms, Vallejo Game and Model colour and Reaper. GW makes great metallics but I don't like their whites or black. Washes and technical paints are good. P3 metallics are poo poo house, but there was a period when I would use their coal black on every model.
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Jan 4, 2019 03:25
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I love P3's metallics, especially Molten Bronze. Hell, I love the whole line, and they just came out with a metallic black that I'm in love with. Only thing of theirs I haven't really played around with is their inks.
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Jan 4, 2019 03:34
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I primarily use p3. They cover well, are affordable and the only real downside is they can be tough to buy as singles.
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Jan 4, 2019 03:45
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Max Wilco posted:I'm also wondering how a color spray would come out since the plastic is blue. It should come out just red, although you may need to hit it with two thin coats. I had to respray a model that I already painted black, and the final color was pretty much identical to when I put the Mephiston on bare gray plastic. Inspector_666 fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 03:55
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Big Willy Style posted:P3 Paints are fine, I have a handful in my collection. Yeah, I'd still consider myself a beginner painter. I've alternated between sticking to schemes and just doing whatever. I've got a mix of Citadel, Army Painter, and Vallejo paint. With the (still unfinished) project I was working on prior to this (a bunch of Warhammer Fantasy Chaos Warriors), I used a color matching chart to find the Vallejo colors that matched the Citadel colors (which I know aren't 1-to-1). I haven't noticed anything majorly different or special with Vallejo so far. With Army Painter, the thing most people I've seen people agree on is that their shades/washes are really good (I bought a couple of those with Vallejo). With Citadel, I find that the Mephiston Red covers pretty well (compared to the red AP paint I was using), and I know some of their shades and texture paints are really good (though I think the jars can get knocked over real easily). Inspector_666 posted:It should come out just red, although you may need to hit it with two thin coats. I had to respray a model that I already painted black, and the final color was pretty much identical to when I put the Mephiston on bare gray plastic. I still have a can of Citadel Grey spraypaint, which I could apply first. Additionally, I also got a can of Rustoleum 2x White Primer I got a month or two back; I haven't used it much, but that might work for a first coat. The problem is that right now, I think it's too wet to spray anything. The weather I think has been my main deterrent in putting more work in on the miniatures. Apart from spray-painting, I don't think there's anywhere in my house where I can use the Tamiya plastic glue with proper ventilation. I have to work on it out in the shed, but most of the time when I get home, it's too dark, too cold, or too late for me to go out and work on anything. I could look and see if there's a way for me to do it inside the house. If anything, I could just set up a fan in the window to blow air out, but I don't know if that would work properly. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:43 on Jan 4, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 04:35
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Eifert Posting posted:I primarily use p3. They cover well, are affordable and the only real downside is they can be tough to buy as singles. Not coming in droppers is a major downside to me.
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Jan 4, 2019 05:30
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I never really liked GW so I mostly used P3 when I started. I still use P3 for my standard colors, but over time I've added more and more Vallejo due to the color range. You also can't beat Vallejo liquid gold alcohols and their new acrylic metallic line is outstanding.
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Jan 4, 2019 06:48
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Max Wilco posted:EDIT: I also want to ask about P3 paints before I forget, and what's good/bad about them. I was looking into them a bit the other day, and the one upside I saw to P3 over Citadel was that you get much more paint for a slightly cheaper price ( P3 seems to be around 25˘ less per jar, but jars are 18ml vs Citadel's 12ml)
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Jan 4, 2019 07:32
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P3's more niche colours, like Coal Black or Trollblood Hide can be useful; as they're geared towards Warmachine or Hordes they've got some really nice faction colours (Menoth White Highlight for example). They also use a liquid pigment, so will never actually split - they just go a bit lumpy with time - and can take a lot of thinning with just water.
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Jan 4, 2019 08:30
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Head's up: Badger is doing its annual airbrush sale. Enjoy! EDIT: https://www.facebook.com/BadgerAir/posts/2031711743573173 Does anyone have tips for a good setup? The reference sheets the site provides are very helpful. I ended up going with: Badger 105 "EXTREME" 2020-3N1 SOTAR Airbrush with all 3 needled/nozzle set The Aspire Pro Compressor CMK-0116 Complete Airbrush Maintenance kit Crab-Stuffed fucked around with this message at 07:43 on Jan 12, 2019 |
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Jan 4, 2019 08:35
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It's fitting that people ITT were talking about P3; I haven't painted anything in literally months, but last night I was at the game store that's about an hour away from me, and I saw they had some P3 paints and inks on clearance (for $2 a bottle), so I ended up grabbing some of the inks for use in making washes. Now I just have to figure out what to paint so I can test 'em out.
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Jan 4, 2019 14:31
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Max Wilco posted:Yeah, I'd still consider myself a beginner painter. I've alternated between sticking to schemes and just doing whatever. I've got a mix of Citadel, Army Painter, and Vallejo paint. With the (still unfinished) project I was working on prior to this (a bunch of Warhammer Fantasy Chaos Warriors), I used a color matching chart to find the Vallejo colors that matched the Citadel colors (which I know aren't 1-to-1). I haven't noticed anything majorly different or special with Vallejo so far. As for your dread, if you are going to spray Mephiston Red from the rattlecan, you won't need a primer. The GW sprays are primers AND base paints. You definitely don't want to be spraying inside the house. Do you have a garage or car port attached to the house?
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Jan 4, 2019 15:06
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Its likely due to my inexperience, but I had a hard time spraying P3 paints. It's defiantly doable, but Golden High Flows / Fluid and Reaper Paints were trivial to get to spray right. The other side is that some P3 paints are an annoyingly perfect color. Sanguine Base, Morrow White, the Menoth whites, and the Trollblood skin colors are just right. Badablack posted:The Mortarion with eyes painted on his wings always bothered me a little. Eye patterns on wings are a defense feature of insects against larger predators. Mortarion is the King poo poo apex predator, he wouldn’t need those! A king needs its crown.
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Jan 4, 2019 15:23
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Crab-Stuffed posted:Head's up: Badger is doing its annual airbrush sale. Enjoy! The real screamin' $55 airbrush deal deets are here: https://www.facebook.com/BadgerAir/posts/2031711743573173
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Jan 4, 2019 15:52
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Serenade posted:Its likely due to my inexperience, but I had a hard time spraying P3 paints. It's defiantly doable, but Golden High Flows / Fluid and Reaper Paints were trivial to get to spray right. And the flesh tones (Ryn and Midlund) proved a decent replacements for the elusive old GW paints I used. Of course, I had to see them in person by accident, because the colors PP shows online are nowhere near close to the actual paints.
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Jan 4, 2019 16:01
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xpostTwo Beans posted:Posting my first model of 2019
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Jan 4, 2019 19:30
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P3's Iron Kingdoms set is the first paints I bought when I got back into painting. It gives you a white, black, Leather, whitepeople flesh, iron and gold. The gold really flashy, but the rest flow better out of the pot then GW and they're cheaper then GW.
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Jan 4, 2019 19:53
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Anyone have any recomendations for an airbrush to pick up from the badger sale?
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Jan 4, 2019 21:37
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gilljoy posted:Anyone have any recomendations for an airbrush to pick up from the badger sale? Do you have an airbrush? Y: Sotar 2020 or Slim, Krome N: Patriot 105, Xtreme Patriot 105
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Jan 4, 2019 21:43
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I actually already have a sotart 20/20 so I'm looking something to pair with it.
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Jan 4, 2019 21:51
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:N: Patriot 105, Xtreme Patriot 105 I'm not going to be buying anything this year because I'm still at least "Move into a new apartment without roomies" away from airbrushing being an option, but for the same price is there any reason to buy the normal Patriot 105 over the Xtreme version?
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Jan 4, 2019 21:54
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Inspector_666 posted:I'm not going to be buying anything this year because I'm still at least "Move into a new apartment without roomies" away from airbrushing being an option, but for the same price is there any reason to buy the normal Patriot 105 over the Xtreme version? I'm looking to know the same thing
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Jan 4, 2019 22:10
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Honestly I haven't ever had an issue shooting P3 out of an airbrush. You just gotta thin it a tiny bit more than when you're brush painting. Using flow improper or windex (if on a budget) takes care of the rest.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:23
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The Xtreme has some cool features which in theory should make it more capable of detail work (air regulator on the brush, special tip, taller trigger for more precise action), but at the same time those features will make it more fussy and steepen the learning curve. If it's your first airbrush id probably stick to the OG Patriot which is bomb proof and easy to learn. I love mine and just picked up a Sotar in the sale for detail work.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:23
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To mimic what has already been said, P3 paints are really good, other than the metallics. If they were in droppers, I would own the entire line. Coal Black, Frostbite, Sanguine Base, Menoth White Highlight, and all the browns are the best of the bunch. Really nice paints.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:29
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Their acid green work up is also really nice. Gnarls -> Iosan -> Necrotite -> Necrotite/neon yellow mix. Very nice.
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Jan 4, 2019 22:45
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What's the exact model of the Future floor polish(?) that's supposed to work as great miniature varnish?
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Jan 4, 2019 22:50
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Pierzak posted:What's the exact model of the Future floor polish(?) that's supposed to work as great miniature varnish? they keep changing the branding. it used to be pledge floor care finish and apparently now it's this http://www.finescale.com/how-to/tips/2018/05/reader-tips-pledge-future-gloss-has-a-new-name
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Jan 4, 2019 22:57
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Inspector_666 posted:I'm not going to be buying anything this year because I'm still at least "Move into a new apartment without roomies" away from airbrushing being an option, but for the same price is there any reason to buy the normal Patriot 105 over the Xtreme version? I'm not 100% sure but I think the Xtreme version has a 0.2 mm nozzle available. I had a convo about it in this or possibly the 40k thread but I never properly verified. I wanted a 0.2mm for my Patriot but now I think 0.3 is actually more forgiving for my poo poo paint thinning skills while still beinng pretty drat fine.
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Jan 4, 2019 23:08
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Booyah- posted:they keep changing the branding. it used to be pledge floor care finish and apparently now it's this Oh, it has the local variations I wante... wait it's Pronto? loving Pronto was the varnish I wanted?  Next question: is it airbrushable and if so, what do I thin it with?
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Jan 4, 2019 23:12
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Pierzak posted:Oh, it has the local variations I wante... wait it's Pronto? loving Pronto was the varnish I wanted? You don't need to thin it if you're using it as a varnish or top coat, but you can use water if you want to. It is air brush-able unthinned. I think you must thin it with water if you're doing a wash. e: Though when I air brush future gloss, it's usually an isolation coat or many layers for a super glossy finish, thus I want it thick.
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Jan 4, 2019 23:27
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Serenade posted:You don't need to thin it if you're using it as a varnish or top coat, but you can use water if you want to. It is air brush-able unthinned. I want it as varnish for boardgame minis that will be stored loose in an organizer, no foam or anything, and also small terrain elements. So, thin to not harm the detail but not extremely thin, I guess?
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Jan 4, 2019 23:33
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This is from a  LONG TIME AGO when I intended to make it into a tutorial post, but never did. Now is a good time as any since it's on topic. Anyway, I tested varnish on my models to find out the effect they had on detail. I wanted to know if pledge through an airbrush vs testors gloss from an airbrush would be any different. Pledge is green, testors is purple, brown is bare paint without varnish.    Then I went over the top with dullcote:      I found that pledge, straight up without being watered down, took away a little bit of detail, but also really smoothed out the surface compared to enamel. This results in a subtle, but particular effect even when you go over the top with dullcote. Enamel based varnish didn't do this at all, but watering down the pledge mitigates the effects a bit. For most people this isn't important, but if you use several layers of varnish when you paint it will add up. I tend to dilute mine about 3:1, but from experience you can go 2:1 or even 1:1 for terrain and it still works.
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Jan 5, 2019 01:44
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Mikey Purp posted:The Xtreme has some cool features which in theory should make it more capable of detail work (air regulator on the brush, special tip, taller trigger for more precise action), but at the same time those features will make it more fussy and steepen the learning curve. If it's your first airbrush id probably stick to the OG Patriot which is bomb proof and easy to learn. One thing to keep in mind too is that the regular Patriot 105 is $67 on Amazon with free shipping, and $65 through the badger sale (shipping and handling included). I ended up buying the Extreme just because it was an actual deal versus the regular Patriot.
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Jan 5, 2019 03:27
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P3 paints are great, the Menoth highlight is like the perfect white and they’re actually easier to airbrush for me than a lot of other stuff (with proper thinning and mixing) but drat if P3 didn’t look at GW’s awful flip top pots and decide the could outdo them in lovely paint pot design.
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Jan 5, 2019 04:22
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Webguy20 posted:One thing to keep in mind too is that the regular Patriot 105 is $67 on Amazon with free shipping, and $65 through the badger sale (shipping and handling included). I ended up buying the Extreme just because it was an actual deal versus the regular Patriot. This is an excellent point. And given the nightmare stories we've heard from last year's sale, anyone dead set on the regular Patriot would be better served just paying a few extra bucks going through Amazon. Even going for the Sotar I was tempted to do that, but we'll see. If I get my airbrush by the end of January I'll be happy.
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Jan 5, 2019 04:34
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Mikey Purp posted:This is an excellent point. And given the nightmare stories we've heard from last year's sale, anyone dead set on the regular Patriot would be better served just paying a few extra bucks going through Amazon. Even going for the Sotar I was tempted to do that, but we'll see. If I get my airbrush by the end of January I'll be happy. Yea I bought mine just for the deal. It'll be a few months before I even get a compressor/tank and accessories.
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Jan 5, 2019 05:09
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