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Aniodia
Feb 23, 2016

Literally who?

Re: drybrushing, I've actually found that you can use your palm to figure out when you have just enough paint on your brush, as you should be able to catch the raised parts of your skin, but skip over the cracks and whorls of your hand. Sure, it's going to require some cleaning up afterward, but it's all acrylic, a little soap and warm water isn't going to hurt.

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rjderouin
May 21, 2007
Airbrushed some Ultramarines for 500 points, super stoked with how they turned out!

https://imgur.com/a/GLpxi8D

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

rjderouin posted:

Airbrushed some Ultramarines for 500 points, super stoked with how they turned out!

https://imgur.com/a/GLpxi8D

That looks great.

jadebullet
Mar 25, 2011


MY LIFE FOR YOU!
My patriot that I got in the sale last year arrived mid April, though for some reason I thought the sale was later in the month last year.

In any case, the sale was worth it, but you aren't going to get your brush for a little while.

Unoriginal Name
Aug 1, 2006

by sebmojo
Stupid noob question: When I'm doing detail work, especially something raised, how do I keep the color from running down and onto the lower surface?

"Thin ur paints" is everyone's catchall advice but in this case it just makes it run everywhere even worse. What am I doing wrong?

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Unoriginal Name posted:

Stupid noob question: When I'm doing detail work, especially something raised, how do I keep the color from running down and onto the lower surface?

"Thin ur paints" is everyone's catchall advice but in this case it just makes it run everywhere even worse. What am I doing wrong?

Don't overload your brush, have way less paint on it than you think you need. Do a few strokes on your palette first to get rid of some excess.

rjderouin
May 21, 2007
Paint should be the consistency of whole milk and you should brush the excess off onto your palette

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
If it is coming off the brush faster/ in greater volume than you want:
You definitely have too much paint on the brush.

A key axiom of painting:
The thinner the paint, the less you can put on your brush.

Think about it, if you are using some thick kids tempera paint, it's going to stay put on the brush - and on the canvas.

If you are painting with near-watercolors which is what our acrylics should be like when applying to models, it inherently wants to flow off a good brush. It also wants to flow around the model, subject to surface tension and gravity.

In order to get the balance right, experiment with brush sizes, and also monitoring the level of paint in the brush. Look and see how "full" is the belly of the brush? Make a guess about how it will flow before touching the model, then see if your guess was accurate. This will help you develop an awareness for this going forward.

You can touch the belly of the brush to the edge of a paper towel to remove some excess if needed.

Also, always be painting.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

Unoriginal Name posted:

Stupid noob question: When I'm doing detail work, especially something raised, how do I keep the color from running down and onto the lower surface?

"Thin ur paints" is everyone's catchall advice but in this case it just makes it run everywhere even worse. What am I doing wrong?

Notice when it starts behaving like a wash (i.e. running into cracks and details) and stop thinning just before that point.
I found that adding a drop of glaze medium (I use Vallejo's) massively helps in avoiding that effect.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!
Slightly related, but I've been having trouble with paint drying almost instantly on the brush tip when trying to do really tiny work (think white dots on eye lens), resulting in what should be a. 5 second effort inexplicably taking 20 mins.

I'm using a citadel small layer brush so nothing insane, the paints are thinned, and I'd tried loading the brush more, rinsing between loading, minimising time between loading and making the dots... I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, the only thing that works reliably is poking the point down harder onto the surface to get some wet paint to make contact which obviously isn't ideal.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Some drying retarder will help with that.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

R0ckfish posted:

I finished up a mek gun:


I always love your Orks.

Pierzak
Oct 30, 2010

IPA Regulations posted:

Slightly related, but I've been having trouble with paint drying almost instantly on the brush tip when trying to do really tiny work (think white dots on eye lens), resulting in what should be a. 5 second effort inexplicably taking 20 mins.

I'm using a citadel small layer brush so nothing insane, the paints are thinned, and I'd tried loading the brush more, rinsing between loading, minimising time between loading and making the dots... I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, the only thing that works reliably is poking the point down harder onto the surface to get some wet paint to make contact which obviously isn't ideal.
Use a bigger brush? I used to do eyes with a 00 size and had similar problems, one dot and that's it, brush starts drying. Switching to size 1 mostly solved it because there's more moisture on the brush so it dries slower, and as long as you have a good brush with a good tip the difference in detail isn't that visible.

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma
Dec 5, 2012

Surprising Adventures!

Cat Face Joe posted:

Some drying retarder will help with that.

Is flow improver for an airbrush equivalent enough? There was a little mixed into the bottle I was using pretty sure, but I will add some more to the pallet next time and see how I go.


Pierzak posted:

Use a bigger brush? I used to do eyes with a 00 size and had similar problems, one dot and that's it, brush starts drying. Switching to size 1 mostly solved it because there's more moisture on the brush so it dries slower, and as long as you have a good brush with a good tip the difference in detail isn't that visible.

I'm not sure what a citadel small layer brush is equivalent to in real artist brush terms but I presumed it was not too crazy small... But I will try with the medium layer next time as there's still a pretty decent point there too.

Edit: do people trim their brushes or is that even a thing? I've noticed the point on my small layer brush actually has literally one hair that's about 1mm longer than all the others (it was like that when the brust came new), I was suspicious that was causing the paint to dry really fast in a clump on that one hair, was tempted to snip it off but didn't wanna completely gently caress up the point doing so

Tiocfaidh Yar Ma fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 9, 2019

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
It likely will not noticeably affect the brush, but in general you don't want to trim nicer brushes as they tend to exploit the natural taper of the end of animal hair.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Those are all reasons I switched to oils for detail work

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



IPA Regulations posted:

Is flow improver for an airbrush equivalent enough? There was a little mixed into the bottle I was using pretty sure, but I will add some more to the pallet next time and see how I go.

Flow improver slows drying a bit but it's more for getting a smoother finish. Drying retarder keeps the paint wet way longer and is useful in wet blending. Flow improver may be enough since you're working on such a small area.

Doctor Zero
Sep 21, 2002

Would you like a jelly baby?
It's been in my pocket through 4 regenerations,
but it's still good.

Cat Face Joe posted:

Some drying retarder will help with that.

Dude. It’s 2019. We don’t say things like that anymore.

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"
Similarly stupid entry level question: Is a base coat only one coat? Working with Trollblood base, one thinned coat was pretty spotty and revealed the primer below.

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

Serenade posted:

Similarly stupid entry level question: Is a base coat only one coat? Working with Trollblood base, one thinned coat was pretty spotty and revealed the primer below.

You want as many thin coats as it takes to get a completely solid colour.

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

BULBASAUR posted:

Those are all reasons I switched to oils for detail work

I've got some of the Mig J Oilbrusher things on the way along with some odourless thinner. Anyone got any experience with the lazy man's oil paint solution?

Serenade
Nov 5, 2011

"I should really learn to fucking read"

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

You want as many thin coats as it takes to get a completely solid colour.

Thank god. I got hung up on the terminology and assumed multiple layers of base coat would be too thick, that it had to be one "coat."

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat

Harkano posted:

I've got some of the Mig J Oilbrusher things on the way along with some odourless thinner. Anyone got any experience with the lazy man's oil paint solution?

Tell me more? Its the same as acrylics as far as I can tell. Thin your paint, put on brush, apply on model

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

BULBASAUR posted:

Tell me more? Its the same as acrylics as far as I can tell. Thin your paint, put on brush, apply on model

It's a Gimmick Mig is selling, but I was getting some other stuff from a proper 'modelling' store so chucked a few on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PgtqutK5NvY

Essentially it's an eye makeup thing full of prethinned and ready to use oil paints. I've never bit the bullet on oils yet, so figured it would be a good taster. Got the brown and black coming as I figure they'll be universally useful.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009



Oh boy my first completed model of 2019, one of the largest models I've ever painted, and the first time I've properly based a model in a very long time.

I feel compelled to go back and touch up a ton of poo poo, but if I do I will never finish my army. I will touch up the base rim, though.

Gilgameshback
May 18, 2010

Water-miscible oils are a nice alternative if you want to try oils without buying a bunch of solvents. You can thin them with water and they get fairly matte that way.

Groetgaffel
Oct 30, 2011

Groetgaffel smacked the living shit out of himself doing 297 points of damage.


Base colours and washes done. Took three and a half hours. I am not a fast painter. :shobon:


Also laughing at the Badcast while painting doesn't help.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Groetgaffel posted:



Base colours and washes done. Took three and a half hours. I am not a fast painter. :shobon:


Also laughing at the Badcast while painting doesn't help.

I averaged 5 hours per model last year. You're not alone.

Groetgaffel
Oct 30, 2011

Groetgaffel smacked the living shit out of himself doing 297 points of damage.

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

I averaged 5 hours per model last year. You're not alone.

:hfive: slow painter buddy.

I love the Escher models, and I don't regret deciding to build a Guard battalion with them, but good lord do they ever take three times as long to paint as the regular cadians.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
drat, I thought I was a slow painter. I guess my problem is that I just don't have a lot of time to paint

Gilgameshback posted:

Water-miscible oils are a nice alternative if you want to try oils without buying a bunch of solvents. You can thin them with water and they get fairly matte that way.

I've never used these, but they sound like they could be the holy grail of highlight paints

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

I managed to surprise myself by finishing painting a model in less than a week. Started on Saturday and finished it today (it was past midnight in that case). So I think that took me like four to five hours to do in total across three days.
Otherwise it takes me a while longer.

DotyManX
Aug 9, 2004
Yeah I drive a minivan, big deal, wanna fight about it?
Quick question from a new airbrush owner:

I just got the badger 105 and badger aspire compressor (with tank) and I'm not sure that I'm using the compressor correctly. I can lower pressure with the knob next to the gauge, but in my (limited) use the compressor never stopped running, is there some sort of way to set a cutoff level for the pressure I'm missing? The instructions are very short and don't mention anything about it and I couldn't find anything via google.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
The compressor usually has an electric pressure switch for 50-60 PSI. How many positions does your power switch have? The mystery meat compressor I have has one that shuts off via pressure and the other bypasses it to run constantly at ~65 psi.

Gareth Gobulcoque
Jan 10, 2008



DotyManX posted:

Quick question from a new airbrush owner:

I just got the badger 105 and badger aspire compressor (with tank) and I'm not sure that I'm using the compressor correctly. I can lower pressure with the knob next to the gauge, but in my (limited) use the compressor never stopped running, is there some sort of way to set a cutoff level for the pressure I'm missing? The instructions are very short and don't mention anything about it and I couldn't find anything via google.

Sounds like you got a leak. Apply thread sealing tape to all your connections.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007



Here's the finished model I mentioned earlier. Claims of those kits being easy to build is a lie however as I had to fill a large gap on the side and just straight up cut off the pegs in order to make things fit and not rub off all the paint in the process.
Either way 2019 is off to a great start in my case in terms of hobby progress.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

Cooked Auto posted:



Here's the finished model I mentioned earlier. Claims of those kits being easy to build is a lie however as I had to fill a large gap on the side and just straight up cut off the pegs in order to make things fit and not rub off all the paint in the process.
Either way 2019 is off to a great start in my case in terms of hobby progress.

It looks great!

I'll echo your issues with the easy to build part, though. I had to use plastic glue to soften up the pegs to get things to fit without gaps.

Cooked Auto
Aug 4, 2007

long-rear end nips Diane posted:

I'll echo your issues with the easy to build part, though. I had to use plastic glue to soften up the pegs to get things to fit without gaps.

Yeah I think the primer in my case made them too thick to fit so I just cut them all off after if I tried putting on the shield and realized it wouldn't budge and I was rubbing off paint at the same time on the hand so I cut them off and just used the hole where the shield goes down as a guide.

Inspector_666
Oct 7, 2003

benny with the good hair
The tolerances on the Easy To Build stuff is so tight that if you want to use glue you have to trim the pegs, apparently. Even then you'll probably end up with a visible seam.

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man
All the Nightvault and Age of Sigmar easy to build stuff I've done needed the pegs trimming to fit together properly with glue, I think in some cases the pegs' are actually a bit too long. (Also the Nighhaunt stuff is great for stabbing yourself with while trying to push the pieces together, lovely and sharp)

Can't remember what I've posted here and/or in Discord so here's a dump of some stuff I've painted over the holidays:


Rogue Trader


Stormcast Sequitor


Redemptor Dreadnought


Some Traitor Guard


Zarbags Gitz

And the last couple of weeks I've been working on these guys

1000pts of Legions of Nagash (still loads more to paint for them yet)

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DJ Dizzy
Feb 11, 2009

Real men don't use bolters.
Which paint matches the vallejo model air 71.003 red?

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