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Applebees Appetizer posted:Oh no one said anything about using a battery like that, if I get the leads backwards am I gonna risk frying the lights with that method? There are no markings for positive or negative on the lights.....Unfortunately I had to rob my smoke detector of it's 9v to power the multimeter and don't have another 9v at the moment. That first controller you listed will do the job just fine unless the DRLs are something weird that draws more current that it could support. It's piss-simple to install as long as you are competent enough to join two wires together. If you want further reassurance, post a photo of the DRL so we can see the connectors - but you can test the polarity with a 9V battery - heck if you have a 5v USB power with accessible wires, you can use that too
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Jan 10, 2019 18:43
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Geoj posted:I'm not an EE but from what I understand you'd have to drive a substantially higher voltage than its rated for across the LED in reverse polarity to actually damage it. I'm no expert but I'd wager a guess that it has to do with the depletion zone width, which can vary depending on the density of the dopant for both the p and n junctions.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:02
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Shut up Meg posted:That first controller you listed will do the job just fine unless the DRLs are something weird that draws more current that it could support. Ok, I just wanted to make sure I didn't get something inadequate that could eventually ruin the lights, I'm perfectly capable of doing the install no issues there. I could have easily gone cheaper with aftermarket LEDs but I wanted the OEM look so of course it's gonna cost more, these lights were $100 a piece. Pic of connector:  Adiabatic posted:I'm no expert but I'd wager a guess that it has to do with the depletion zone width, which can vary depending on the density of the dopant for both the p and n junctions. Lol wat 
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Jan 10, 2019 19:23
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keykey posted:So true. When did veterinary medicine become as silly cost-wise as human medicine? Also, gently caress insurance companies and their "pre-existing conditions." It's even a nonsense phrase.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:31
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That reddit sourced Subaru dealer crashed my car story is a case of Pics or it didnt happen. What a load of crap
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Jan 10, 2019 19:33
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Darchangel posted:Also, gently caress insurance companies and their "pre-existing conditions." It's even a nonsense phrase. Pulling from the business side of my brain, I get it because said insurance company would then be taking on known liability. However, there are certain ways to offset that, mainly in showing a loss to balance the books in the L column. However, there are actual ways to be ahead while taking an L, it just depends on the amount of A's to offset the L's. Further, if there was substantial OE, then the L could put them ahead for the year as far as cash out due to tax, it all just depends on how large the parent insurer is. So if it's a small insurer, I can sympathize. For a large corporate insurer, it's bullshit. From the human side of my brain, it's total horse poo poo. edit: Also, why the gently caress does my brain think in empathetic terms these days? Probably my wife's social work chat stuff rubbing off or some such poo poo. keykey fucked around with this message at 19:47 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 19:42
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Empathy is cool and good and the world could use ever more of it, just in my imo
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Jan 10, 2019 19:49
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Fender Anarchist posted:Empathy is cool and good and the world could use ever more of it, just in my imo Can't build a wall out of empathy.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:51
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Darchangel posted:When did veterinary medicine become as silly cost-wise as human medicine? Realistically its always been that way. Veterinary medicine is arguably more difficult than regular medicine, as vets can't ask their patients what's wrong and have to be experts on multiple species. Prescriptions are often the same drugs you'd receive at a pharmacy, or best-case scenario are chemically the same but were manufactured on lines with lower standards than those producing drugs for human consumption, so costs are high there too. My wife works in claims support - she has to coordinate medical records and billing from clinics with customers' claims. Some of the dollar amounts she sees for both individual claims and lifetime of the pet would make your head spin.
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Jan 10, 2019 19:59
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Rhyno posted:Can't build a wall out of empathy. Living in CA, people with rentals are super cool with no wall and being a sanctuary state since it's driving the rental market upward. More demand + same supply = higher prices. Additionally, minimum wage going up = people's willingness to pay is going up and driving home ownership even further out of reach for the average family which in turn drives rental prices up further as a result. But, ya know, CA isn't really good at that whole market factors thing, they just look at it as state deficit = need higher minimum wage = collect more taxes. CA lawmakers are cute. 
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Jan 10, 2019 20:00
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Rhyno posted:Can't build a wall out of empathy. I'll climb right over your empathy wall.
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Jan 10, 2019 20:00
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EVERYWHERE 
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I can't wait til they start building it. This is fuckin' AMERICA. Land of taking the lowest goddamned bid. That fuckin wall is going to be made out of repurposed cinder blocks and chicken wire.
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Jan 10, 2019 20:01
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Hahaha, seriously. I mean, the wall is a nice symbol, but really doesn't discourage anything other than a 15-minute bypass under/over/through. Immigration is looked at as an external problem and not an internal one that rewards those who enter
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Jan 10, 2019 20:06
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I made a jokey post about a Canadian wall and one of my Trumpet friends commented that it won't happen until we have drug and human trafficking issues up north and I was like BRO do you have any idea how much weed I brought back from Canada in 2003?
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Jan 10, 2019 20:09
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For those who don't follow the OSHA thread in GBS:Kith posted:
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Jan 10, 2019 20:16
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Got some new 9v batteries and did this, but was getting all kinds of inconsistent numbers flashing and then it going back to 1 where it started. I don't know if it's the lovely free HF multimeter I got years ago or what, but now I gotta go to work yay.
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Jan 10, 2019 21:19
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Darchangel posted:When did veterinary medicine become as silly cost-wise as human medicine? My old man was a vet for over three decades. I was pretty involved in the clinic when I was around 20, racking up the better part of half a year of employment across three summers. Perhaps I can comment. You got a university educated person with a load of expensive specialty tools and equipment, assistants, vet nurses, a receptionist, expenses for a clinic and finally the drugs and consumables aren’t exactly free. My pop’s clinic had an in-house lab, X-ray, pharmacy, OR and ultrasound scanner.
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Jan 10, 2019 21:37
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Geoj posted:Realistically its always been that way. Ultimately, it's a form of private healthcare, and the costs that come with that.
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Jan 10, 2019 21:37
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Adiabatic posted:I'm no expert but I'd wager a guess that it has to do with the depletion zone width, which can vary depending on the density of the dopant for both the p and n junctions. A diode, LED or otherwise, is a P-N junction. This junction is made from an element like silicon which has been chemically doped to change its electrical properties. Normally, silicon is an insulator, but by adding boron to it, you create a P type doped conductor. P type silicon has had electrons removed from it, creating 'holes' which allows it to carry a positive electrical charge. Adding antimony to silicon creates a N type doping, which opposite from the P type, has extra electrons. When you create a junction of these two, the extra electrons from the P type will hop over across to the electron deficient N type. This effectively creates normal silicon, an insulator, as there are no extra electrons, or missing electrons. This is the depletion region and effectively becomes an insulator as it does not transfer charge. Applying a voltage across the junction in the forward direction, ie negative to N and positive to P, will shrink this depletion region as the electrons and holes move across the junction. The electrons in the circuit will be able to hop across the depletion region, which is the flow of current. Reversing the positive and negative connections causes the depletion region to grow larger, as the electrons and holes are pulled away from the junction, creating a larger insulator and stopping the flow of current. That is why a diode can be thought of as a one way valve. Now, there is a limit of how much the one way valve can hold back. If while the diode is reverse biased, we continue to apply a higher and higher voltage, the diode will experience an avalanche breakdown. Voltage is a measure of electrical potential, whereas current is a measure of electron flow. The more electrons which accumulate at one point, the higher the voltage potential difference. As we increase reverse voltage, the electric force we exert on the electrons in the junction also increases. At the breakdown point, the force will be great enough to tear the electrons bonds and accelerate them across the insulative junction. In turn, they will collide with other electrons, freeing them and causing the holes and electrons to recombine, causing rapid increases in current. At this point, the internal resistance of the diode is zero, and the device will act as a short, causing damage to itself. As for how an LED creates light, when the diode is forward biased, the process electron and hole combination creates a stable, complete atom, which emits a bit of energy, a photon. As this process happens over and over, the result is the solid light we see. So, that being said, at 12VDC, you should be able to quickly connect the light and check to see if it illuminates. If not, quickly reverse the wires. As added protection, you can add a current limiting resistor for your test. The resistor is probably built into your lightpack though. What exact operation do you want these lights to exhibit? When do you want them on, off or dim? Can you take a picture of your multimeter and I'll try to explain why it might be reading weird. As for your load, if the lights were 25W (which would be quite powerful for LED), you would have a current draw of ~2A each, which still puts you under 5A. Again, explain how you'd like them to operate and we can go from there. Sgt Fox fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jan 10, 2019 |
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Jan 10, 2019 21:40
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bolind posted:My old man was a vet for over three decades. I was pretty involved in the clinic when I was around 20, racking up the better part of half a year of employment across three summers. Perhaps I can comment.
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Jan 10, 2019 21:49
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keykey posted:Living in CA, people with rentals are super cool with no wall and being a sanctuary state since it's driving the rental market upward. More demand + same supply = higher prices. Yeah, I'm super excited that these $5/hr cash-under-the-table immigrants are here to drive up demand on my $3000/mo 1 bedroom rental apartment because that's definitely a thing that happens
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Jan 10, 2019 22:16
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Ether Frenzy posted:lol wut You've heard of trickle-down economics? Now try, trickle-up rentals!
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Jan 10, 2019 22:40
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Ether Frenzy posted:lol wut I'll let you read this piece: https://thehill.com/blogs/pundits-blog/immigration/329141-does-mass-immigration-drive-up-home-prices-one-study-says Some numbers: https://www.ppic.org/publication/immigrants-in-california/ http://www.pewhispanic.org/interactives/unauthorized-immigrants/ California overwhelmingly has a higher percentage of "foreign-born population nationwide", with this comes simple supply and demand. Housing and thereby rentals are directly affected, I'd argue that many undocumented can't afford to purchase a house, much less throw themselves in jeopardy with signatures on a document. This is where rentals come in. Obviously there are many other factors that come into play, distance to major metro areas, etc... But there's no denying a pew estimated 6% of our state as of 2014 causes unintended fuckery with our pricing.
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Jan 10, 2019 23:23
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Sgt Fox posted:What exact operation do you want these lights to exhibit? When do you want them on, off or dim? Can you take a picture of your multimeter and I'll try to explain why it might be reading weird. As for your load, if the lights were 25W (which would be quite powerful for LED), you would have a current draw of ~2A each, which still puts you under 5A. Again, explain how you'd like them to operate and we can go from there. I want them to be on whenever the ignition is on, bright as possible during the day so all the idiot drivers around here can see me clearly. But then they need to dim when I turn on the headlights so they don't overpower the headlights, or turn off completely if they don't support dimming. I guess I could start a thread in one of the scion forums (bleh) and maybe somebody can tell me how theirs works so i can figure out which harness to buy. But say they are not dimable and I install them with a dimming harness just to see if it works, it wouldn't hurt the lights if it doesn't work would it? Then I could just remove the lead for the dimmer.
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Jan 10, 2019 23:43
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keykey posted:I'll let you read this piece: https://thehill.com/blogs/pundits-blog/immigration/329141-does-mass-immigration-drive-up-home-prices-one-study-says So.... basically an rear end in a top hat with a blog that quotes what appears to be a pretty poor study. Yeah nah.
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Jan 10, 2019 23:49
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:So.... basically an rear end in a top hat with a blog that quotes what appears to be a pretty poor study. Yeah nah. ...are you objecting to the source, or are you actually trying to say that more people living in an area doesn't drive up rental prices?
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Jan 10, 2019 23:51
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The Prong Song posted:...are you objecting to the source, or are you actually trying to say that more people living in an area doesn't drive up rental prices? What if the question and issue is more than a binary thing? Looks like the source sucks, and more people living in an area is a component of increased rental prices. Multivariate problems are more common than binary ones.
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Jan 10, 2019 23:56
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This is like the 3rd paragraph: The majority of recent arrivals are from Asia. The vast majority of California’s immigrants were born in Latin America (51%) or Asia (39%). California has sizable populations of immigrants from dozens of countries; the leading countries of origin are Mexico (4.2 million), China (936,000), the Philippines (813,000), Vietnam (534,000), and India (482,000). However, most (58%) of those arriving between 2012 and 2016 came from Asia; only 28% came from Latin America. Do you suppose this wall is gonna keep out those Airbuses arriving at LAX? The Prong Song posted:...are you objecting to the source, or are you actually trying to say that more people living in an area doesn't drive up rental prices?
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Jan 10, 2019 23:57
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The Prong Song posted:...are you objecting to the source, or are you actually trying to say that more people living in an area doesn't drive up rental prices? Source. Of course more people in an area drive up prices. California has the jobs so of course more people are going there. However as pointed out it ain't those that would be blocked by a wall causing the problem. And isn't it the case that there is a net migration from shithouse red states to the big blue ones because of the jobs and in general the big blue states aren't backwater shitholes? Good luck stopping that. Let alone anything I've read said there's basically fuckall NET migration going on from Mexico to the USA. It's even reversed lately at times. Let alone cries about "California being sanctuary state!!! It's all dem illegals fault!!!" is in fact a racist dogwhistle. Example - the current racist in chief blowing as loving hard on said dogwhistle as he can.
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Jan 11, 2019 00:08
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Applebees Appetizer posted:I want them to be on whenever the ignition is on, bright as possible during the day so all the idiot drivers around here can see me clearly. But then they need to dim when I turn on the headlights so they don't overpower the headlights, or turn off completely if they don't support dimming. I guess I could start a thread in one of the scion forums (bleh) and maybe somebody can tell me how theirs works so i can figure out which harness to buy. No, it shouldn't hurt the lights, it just might make them flicker, or turn off. I don't know if there is any logic inside the DRL lights themselves, but with only two contacts in the connectors, I doubt it. All you can do is try it out on your desk with the lights, a module and a battery/or battery charger. Either of those modules should be suitable, I like the fancy one with the harnesses already personally, but its also can only handle 2.5A, whereas the first one was 5A. Personally, I would test the lights' current draw with a multimeter and either a battery charger or car battery first, to make sure you are not exceeding the current rating.
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Jan 11, 2019 01:02
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Geoj posted:Good point. Thank you for the links, we're starting to look into it. Concerned we may hit the preexisting conditions thing though...should have signed up for it earlier.
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Jan 11, 2019 01:54
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Sgt Fox posted:Either of those modules should be suitable, I like the fancy one with the harnesses already personally, but its also can only handle 2.5A, whereas the first one was 5A. Personally, I would test the lights' current draw with a multimeter and either a battery charger or car battery first, to make sure you are not exceeding the current rating. I'm at work and it's dead so I've been searching around teh internets and found this "current calculator", could it apply to my lights as well? https://learn.adafruit.com/rgb-led-strips/current-draw
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Jan 11, 2019 04:09
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No, that is for those specific lights, with their specific burden resistor. A raw led connected directly to power will quickly burn itself out, unless you limit the current with a current limiting resistor. Different colours of LEDs have different forward voltages, and thus require different resistor values. As well, there is a huge range of power/light output in LEDs; obviously your power led on your pc will consume much less power than an LED spotlight. For example, those LEDs state they draw 12mA or 0.012A for three at 12VDC. Its not inconceivable for an LED foglight to be rated at 20W. Ohms law states Power=Voltage*Current so 20W/12V = 1.7A. This is much more power than those little LEDs. You said you are using a harbor freight multimeter. I am assuming its this piece of poo poo:  It was probably flashing 1 because its overrange. On the right side there is DCA(mps) and four ranges outlined in green. 200uA, 2000uA, 20mA and 200mA. These are all too low for the draw of your LEDs, as the highest reading you could get would be 200mA and anything over it flashes 1. Below is a 10A range, outlined in red. This means you can measure up to 10A, which is the one you want for this test. (Note, these cheap poo poo multimeters are not fused and can blow up catastrophically and dangerously in your face if overloaded. Don't use it to measure anything more than 10A or anything more than 30VDC please) You will have to move the red wire to the 10A port on the top as well. Connect one red lead to your power source (battery +), connect one of your LED terminals to battery -, and connect the black lead to the other pin on your LED. The LED should illuminate, and the meter should read the current, I would expect under 2A. If it doesn't light up, swap the pins on the LED (obviously if you know what pin on the led is negative, connect it to the battery -). Someone earlier posted a simple diagram of this.
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Jan 11, 2019 04:47
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Using that exact piece of poo poo free cen tech today under my house (oh and it’s 21 degrees). Couldnt even get a voltage reading or ohm continuity reading out of it. Oh well it helped me last time water heater went out. I’ll snag another free newer meter next time I need something at HF
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Jan 11, 2019 05:46
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Sgt Fox posted:You will have to move the red wire to the 10A port on the top as well. This is where i hosed up, will try it again. I very rarely use a multimeter for anything so I feel like a dumbass whenever i do. The last time I used it (the same POS) I was trying to figure out something with a switch on my last Protege and it was giving me all kinds of wonky readings. Finally someone (I think Kastein) said to put a fresh battery in it and then it worked fine lol. Would probably help if I had a non lovely multimeter.
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Jan 11, 2019 06:50
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My WRX came back a total loss today. $8600 + $140 for the reg fees, -$500 deductible. Pretty much exactly what I expected, except I didn't know the license refund was a thing so that was nice. I took some video of a quick drive around the block with the shredded rear end dragging to the right. Turn your sound up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rkGePQai7w
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Jan 11, 2019 07:31
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Oof. Looks like you did alright on the payout, at least - not many WRXs on the local Craigslist, but I found a clean private party 08 for $10k w/full maint history and a new timing belt + clutch (more miles, though), and dealers seem to be listing 04-05s for about what you got. Did his insurance pay, or is your insurance gonna have to go after him? Did insurance even bother giving you a written estimate of what it would take to fix, or did they just take one look and say "ayup, we're not touching that"? Kinda curious what the estimate would have been.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 11, 2019 |
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Jan 11, 2019 07:46
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STR posted:Oof. There is no "him". The other car was found abandoned and is in impound, so it's my uninsured motorist covering. Mine also has new timing belt/radiator/water pump, and had the takata airbag replaced. Payout after deductible is actually $8600, I just looked. The report is shockingly detailed "your tires are meh, seats kind of dirty, paint ok, engine is gross, etc". But no estimate to fix. A friend of FB just pinged me "hey check out this '15 P85D for $65K with low miles!". Thanks, friend-o, I'll look into it.
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Jan 11, 2019 08:36
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So GF's car insurance renewal came in. Her mom pays for her car insurance  (seriously, at 40?!). After seeing the renewal quote, I can see why (she showed it to me and asked if I thought it was a good price, and if I thought she was well covered....)Her mom is paying $2400/year to insure a 14 year old base model Matrix with $750 deductibles (full coverage, and 50/100/50 limits vs the state minimums). GF has perfect credit, her mom's credit is excellent as well. I know I plan to leave soon, but holy poo poo, I'm waiting for Geico to get back to me about adding her to my policy. Having her on my policy would mean I can legitimately use her car for work when the Saturn is down (I have a hybrid policy, but it doesn't cover me for work use on someone else's car or a rental - only personal protection in that case). I have $250 deductibles, no collision, same liabilities, RIDESHARE AND DELIVERY POLICY that also covers personal use, and a credit score below 600, for less than $700/year.  I can toss her off my policy later if I need to. And I may be able to get my rates down slightly since the Saturn is now garaged instead of parked in a lot.I can see carrying collision on her car, it's worth a bit more than the Saturn (plus has half the miles), but holy pope on a rope, $2400 is the kind of rate you pay if you've been in multiple at-fault accidents. I've had 3 collision claims in 5 years (none my fault, but still claims), and still pay a fraction of what her mom is paying for her. e: for those wondering why the gently caress I'd be adding her to my policy when I plan to break up soon-ish; I've known her mom for something like 25 years. Her mom is a retired university professor with a not-great pension, and she retired early, so she doesn't get to collect the full amount of SSI she'd normally be entitled to (retired at 62, went back to work for a few years, then re-retired... she's in her late 70s now). Her mom's always been awesome to me. I don't like seeing her daughter bleed her bank account to the tune of $2400/year. Especially for a car worth maybe $4000 on a good day (worth that solely because it has low miles for its age - the paint is hosed, it has accident history, and the interior is showing its age). AnnoyBot posted:There is no "him". The other car was found abandoned and is in impound, so it's my uninsured motorist covering. Mine also has new timing belt/radiator/water pump, and had the takata airbag replaced. Payout after deductible is actually $8600, I just looked. The report is shockingly detailed "your tires are meh, seats kind of dirty, paint ok, engine is gross, etc". But no estimate to fix. In theory, the owner's insurance should cover it...... So long as he/she didn't claim it was stolen. In which case, his insurance is out of the window. If he's stupid enough to admit to it, then he's facing (likely felony) charges, and his insurance might own up to it. (  who am I kidding, they'll look for every way out) It was some dude racing, right?This is exactly why I carry UM/UIM on every car I own, no matter how much of a shitbox it may be. It's dirt cheap, and in many states, it covers hit and runs (including my state, and apparently yours). I've had to lean on it twice. This is also why anytime I've had a claim, I make sure to clean the interior before the adjuster shows up; if I can drive it, I'll run it through a car wash and hit the engine with degreaser. Even if I can't drive it, I'll clean out the inside, vacuum it, clean the dash/windows, etc. Just to make it a lot more presentable, and make it obvious the car is generally taken care of. On my last UM/UIM claim, the claims adjuster mentioned he could tell it was a beater (front bumper held on by tape on one side, paint damage from being egged before I bought it, etc), but could also tell I took very good care of it. He told me it was within a few hundred of a write off, but went on to say that the cleanliness helped the value enough to keep it repairable (as did the receipts for new tires, recent work done, etc). I make it a habit to pressure wash the engine bay of every car I own every few month (mainly so I can spot new leaks, but also because I loving hate working on a dirty engine). If it's not too late, ask your insurance company if they'll consider the recent work toward the valuation, assuming you have receipts. And your insurance will definitely be trying to track down the owner anyway (they don't hand out money for free!); if the ignition cylinder wasn't punched out, they may eventually wind up paying out. But in a lot of states, a UM/UIM claim shouldn't affect your rates anyway. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Jan 11, 2019 |
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Jan 11, 2019 09:49
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Ether Frenzy posted:Do you suppose this wall is gonna keep out those Airbuses arriving at LAX? I thought the majority of "illegal immigration" into the US was "legal immigrants/visitors who don't leave when they're supposed to"?
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Jan 11, 2019 09:57
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