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Professor Shark posted:How would I go about painting a SM pauldron light orange, similar to: Orange and Yellow are a bitch, so I would advise using any reddish brown as a base and use firedragon bright as light glazes
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Feb 20, 2019 11:50
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Thanqol posted:Prime white, basecoat Fire Dragon Bright. If you need to prime a different colour basecoat Jokero Orange and layer up to FD. Cool, White+ FD was what I was going to go with, I just didn't think it would be that simple. I may buy Troll Slayer too, just in case I like the shade better. I have the Citadel app, I just didn't like any of the options it gave.
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Feb 20, 2019 11:52
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Avenging Dentist posted:That's probably not the issue, since applying watered down PVA to the top of sand (well, ballast) is basically the standard procedure in model railroading. Probably, I was kinda pulling the reasoning out of my rear end. I walk it back to mould release on the base, or possibly cheap pva. I have some budget pva that seems very watered down compared to normal pva, it retracts annoyingly on bases when trying to spread it to the edges, takes forever to dry, and lets sand flake off after, so for basing it's pretty useless. Will probably try using it for water effects or something and if not just toss it. So another option could be to try a tackier/better brand.
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Feb 20, 2019 12:44
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You can deal with surface tension with dishwashing soap or alchohol. Also just mix some craft paint with glue, sand and water. It cuts down a bunch of waiting time and it literally is just a bit of cheap paint, water, glue, and sand. So don't trick yourself into not doing it from the cost, you are going to spend a lot more money in this hobby.
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Feb 20, 2019 12:54
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Zev posted:Any advice on using testors dullcote? I picked up a can to use on some finished models, but I don’t want to gently caress it up. Just spray it on. It's the go-to for matte sealing, so you should be good to go. The only issue I've ever had is that if you don't shake the can up really well, you can get a glossier coat. If that happens, just let it dry, shake the hell out of your can, and spray again.
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Feb 20, 2019 13:39
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My advice would be a variation on: Measure twice, cut once If you are using a new product (even an amazing one), err on the side of using too little. Seriously, like a <puff> <puff> while moving side to side across the model. If it's still a bit shiny 10 minutes later, repeat. Don't firehose your model with varnish, and then wonder why it looks chalky. I might be speaking from personal experience.
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Feb 20, 2019 15:54
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I said come in! posted:I am very happy with how my first Ork is turning out, but am open to suggestions. What shade would I want to use and where should I use it? For the saw, I still need to add blood to it, hopefully I can get that paint this weekend. I like Nuln Oil on metals, and I would put it on before the blood since theoretically the blade is already old and crappy before you're cutting dudes in half with it. Also you can layer it to make stuff look "sooty" on the smokestacks, lay down a layer over the whole thing, then add layers closer and closer to just the end of the stack to build up the burned look.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:02
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Inspector_666 posted:I like Nuln Oil on metals, and I would put it on before the blood since theoretically the blade is already old and crappy before you're cutting dudes in half with it. Also you can layer it to make stuff look "sooty" on the smokestacks, lay down a layer over the whole thing, then add layers closer and closer to just the end of the stack to build up the burned look. Thank you for the advice! I just got myself a bottle of Noln Oil in the mail last night and I am excited to start using it. It seems to be a highly recommended in shade in a lot of painting tutorials.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:06
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Oh that reminds me, having used both the army painter shades seem almost identical to citadel shade and are pretty good quality, I would be hard pressed to tell you any difference.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:08
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I said come in! posted:Thank you for the advice! I just got myself a bottle of Noln Oil in the mail last night and I am excited to start using it. It seems to be a highly recommended in shade in a lot of painting tutorials. The geedubz big 3, nuln, Seraphim Sepia, and Agrax Earthshade are all good buys that even the most anti GW painters acknowledge. Sharkopath posted:Oh that reminds me, having used both the army painter shades seem almost identical to citadel shade and are pretty good quality, I would be hard pressed to tell you any difference. I like them too but I find that they go on a lot lighter.
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Feb 20, 2019 16:55
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dexefiend posted:My advice would be a variation on: After loving up a bunch of Knights literally hours before NOVA I refuse to use spray varnish. Airbrushing gives me much better control and no risk of frosting (which can be solved with additional layers) or texturing (which requires literal sandpaper to remove).
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Feb 20, 2019 17:31
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Cat Face Joe posted:The geedubz big 3, nuln, Seraphim Sepia, and Agrax Earthshade are all good buys that even the most anti GW painters acknowledge. Ha. QFT. I was pretty anti-GW for a while, but I always liked their washes. I still don't like their paint pots, but I've been giving them a shot again recently and they have some good stuff that coats really well. Retributor Armor, I think it's called, is the easiest Gold I've ever used, immediately fell in love with it. But $6 a pot is crazy  I couldn't imagine paying that much and doing the studio "all gold" scheme for my Stormcast.
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Feb 20, 2019 17:40
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Sab669 posted:Ha. QFT. I was pretty anti-GW for a while, but I always liked their washes. A pot is going to give you enough gold for dozens of models. The difference between a $3 paint and a $6 paint is like 10 cents a model.
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Feb 20, 2019 17:47
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Zev posted:Any advice on using testors dullcote? I picked up a can to use on some finished models, but I don’t want to gently caress it up. Try to do it on a test mini you don't care about loving up first. Spray varnish can be really sensitive to temperate and humidity, moreso than opaque sprays. Otherwise it's just the standard spray can stuff of trying to get the distance right and not to linger too long, you want to spray across the model rather than point and spray. Dullcote is one of the best ones though and is pretty forgiving, but for matte spray cans I use AP matte because it's cheaper.
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Feb 20, 2019 17:55
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Sab669 posted:Ha. QFT. I was pretty anti-GW for a while, but I always liked their washes. You spend a lot more on the model itself, and if the coverage is poo poo you could easily use twice as much paint. Not to mention waste from putting paint on your palette, etc. It's expensive but I would much rather use a good paint than cheap out there. I tried to get into the GW washes but I vastly prefer Army Painter's.
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Feb 20, 2019 18:00
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Yeah, even when I was using craft paints for minis for friend's D&D characters I still didn't skimp on metallics. Decent metallics are worth their weight in whatever metal they purport themselves to be.
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Feb 20, 2019 18:25
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Booley posted:A pot is going to give you enough gold for dozens of models. The difference between a $3 paint and a $6 paint is like 10 cents a model. Yea, I know you're right. It just really caught me off guard when I had a $5 on me but had to charge the paint of pot lol. Also I thin my metals much less than regular colors so I was just thinking how much faster I'd go through it. Unrelated - I shot you a PM recently but you never replied; how'd you do that metallic red in your avatar?
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Feb 20, 2019 18:36
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Sab669 posted:Yea, I know you're right. It just really caught me off guard when I had a $5 on me but had to charge the paint of pot lol. Sorry, I must've missed it. It's forgeworld angron red over a silver base. That paint isn't available anymore, Tamiya clear red would be the replacement.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:05
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:You spend a lot more on the model itself, and if the coverage is poo poo you could easily use twice as much paint. Not to mention waste from putting paint on your palette, etc. It's expensive but I would much rather use a good paint than cheap out there. Yeah, I'm totally in the "spend a little more if it makes doing a fun hobby thing more enjoyable" camp. I think I'd only recommend Citadel in general though if you can't easily get other lines. I don't know if there's any one brand that's universally "the best", but outside of their washes, a lot of Citadel paints are just ok compared to the competition, so I generally wouldn't pay the GW premium.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:05
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Sab669 posted:Yea, I know you're right. It just really caught me off guard when I had a $5 on me but had to charge the paint of pot lol. Like Booley said, Tamiya clear [color] is usually the method of choice, but I've had decent success with black basecoating -> gloss black -> silver -> ink for my candy-coating process. It's more work for a slightly less nice look, but I mostly didn't want to buy more paint. Definitely do not try metallic medium plus ink.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:10
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grassy gnoll posted:Like Booley said, Tamiya clear [color] is usually the method of choice, but I've had decent success with black basecoating -> gloss black -> silver -> ink for my candy-coating process. It's more work for a slightly less nice look, but I mostly didn't want to buy more paint. I've been doing silver + green wash for my current army, very happy with the result. Tried silver + red wash and it came out a very ugly pink. Went over it with a glaze and it's much more red, but not metallic at all. I'll have to look for the Tamiya stuff, thanks dudes.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:13
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Sab669 posted:I've been doing silver + green wash for my current army, very happy with the result. Oh, and it's with an airbrush. I'm not sure how well it works without one.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:25
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Yeah, you need to airbrush both the Tamiya clear-color and the ink on. It's not really possible to get the smooth coat you'd need with a bristle brush.
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Feb 20, 2019 19:26
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Airbrush is definitely better even if you make your stuff with glaze medium, but VMC transparent red applies ok with a brush if you have to
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Feb 20, 2019 19:29
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Avenging Dentist posted:Yeah, I'm totally in the "spend a little more if it makes doing a fun hobby thing more enjoyable" camp. I think I'd only recommend Citadel in general though if you can't easily get other lines. I don't know if there's any one brand that's universally "the best", but outside of their washes, a lot of Citadel paints are just ok compared to the competition, so I generally wouldn't pay the GW premium. I stopped using GW paints because I had a habit of leaving the hobby for several years and then coming back. Every time GW I did, GW had changed their paints. For new players the latest system is fantastic for getting into painting fairly quickly, but I've become a huge fan of Vallejo Model Air paints and Army Painter washes. I think in the end the difference is fairly minor and what really matters is that you enjoy the colors and find a system that works for you.
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Feb 20, 2019 20:24
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In my case I use GW paints because that is what is locally available, its both supporting local stores and if I need a refill on anything I can get it when I would be regularly at the store anyway.
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Feb 20, 2019 20:37
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I have both an official Games Workshop store, and local store by where I live, who only stocks Citadel paints, so it makes sense to go with that.
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Feb 20, 2019 20:59
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Professor Shark posted:How would I go about painting a SM pauldron light orange, similar to: Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown works great as an undercoat for yellow and orange.
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Feb 20, 2019 21:04
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I've been using washes made using https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I this method. I'm using Liquitex matte medium and flow aid, and Daler-Rowney and Liquitex inks. When I use one of these washes on a figure, I've noticed the result is a little bit glossy, kind of like a satin paint. Not enough that it's particularly distracting, and overall I kind of like the effect, but it's noticeably glossier than the base coat and it can make it look really odd when I apply shading and highlighting after the wash. Any idea what component of this mix is producing the satin finish? Does anyone else use this kind of homemade wash and have a similar result?
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Feb 20, 2019 21:09
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Yes I've had the same problem. I think it's the ink but I'm not sure. I find that REALLY shaking it up before use tends to help a bit, and a matte varnish at the end will take care of it regardless.
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Feb 20, 2019 21:32
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Enola Gay-For-Pay posted:I've been using washes made using https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dEkMnP6p08I this method. I'm using Liquitex matte medium and flow aid, and Daler-Rowney and Liquitex inks. When I use one of these washes on a figure, I've noticed the result is a little bit glossy, kind of like a satin paint. Not enough that it's particularly distracting, and overall I kind of like the effect, but it's noticeably glossier than the base coat and it can make it look really odd when I apply shading and highlighting after the wash. Any idea what component of this mix is producing the satin finish? Does anyone else use this kind of homemade wash and have a similar result?
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Feb 20, 2019 21:53
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I am very happy with how all three of these turned out.  I am trying not to compare myself to other Killa Kans i've seen because 1.) i'm brand new to this, and 2.) I don't have all of the paints they use, or knowledge of their techniques. I can always make touch ups and improvements later, but for now I think these look great. I am hoping in the next month to get a proper setup for taking photos. I have a digital camera with a tripod at least and should probably be practicing with that rather than my phone.    
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Feb 20, 2019 21:59
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First model I have painted in twenty years. Well the first finished one, I'm working on about 20 more at the moment... man, photos really don''t hide anything do they. This is another model I'm working on at the mo, painting is fun! 
BoneMonkey fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Feb 20, 2019 |
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Feb 20, 2019 22:01
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BoneMonkey posted:First model I have painted in twenty years. Well the first finished one, I'm working on about 20 more at the moment... That Stormcast is super clean on my phone and the colors look great. I wish my first completed stuff looked like that when i got back into painting!
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Feb 20, 2019 23:04
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My goal is to get this order done tonight. I've decided to go ahead with a SM idea that is probably super lame but I've been bouncing around in my head since some GBS thread. I've decided to go with the White Scars painting method this guy did, only with aftermarket pauldrons with orange. What is a good Cit White to buy if I want to go with his method of using Corax White as the base? How'd you do your purple robes?
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Feb 20, 2019 23:23
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BoneMonkey posted:This is another model I'm working on at the mo, painting is fun! drat dude, that Dominus looks amazing. I'm going to have to go back and add more detail to mine, every time I see somebody else's I get jealous.
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Feb 20, 2019 23:34
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BoneMonkey posted:First model I have painted in twenty years. Well the first finished one, I'm working on about 20 more at the moment... Hell I moved this to my color accurate monitor to get a better look. For your first model in 20 years that seems very good!
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Feb 20, 2019 23:58
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Psyber Spine posted:What do you guys use to protect the paint on your models? I have a really old can of GW's purity seal that I used on my maulerfiend but it's a little too glossy. (I'm in the UK)
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Feb 21, 2019 01:30
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I've got the whole set of Badger Ghost tints and tried some experimenting with them awhile back. You can get a really fiery metallic red by spraying transparent red over a gold basecoat.
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Feb 21, 2019 04:31
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Cross-posting from the Wh40k thread. I finished my first Tonka Taurox tonight (it's so tiny IRL - it could fit on the back of your passport): https://imgur.com/gallery/DTzA8hq     
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Feb 21, 2019 04:57
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