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In Alberta, but when I got my insurance I ended up with something from Morgex that's pretty reasonable - a few hundo a year - so, not the pocket change that some people pay in the states, but nowhere near $3000 more than the bike itself, that's hosed up. For comparison, I also tried Meloche, since that's who my car and home are through cause their alumnus discount is decent, and they wanted like 2-3 times as much as the Morgex quote. Caveat: I never tried insuring an actual sportbike. Finger Prince posted:Put it this way, for the price of a fun bike and the insurance, you can probably fly to Calgary and rent for a weekend like at least half a dozen times a year. Keep in mind, if you actually do this, loving go ride in BC. The roads accessible from Calgary can be pretty, to be sure, but in BC they are just as pretty and actually fun to ride on.
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Mar 13, 2019 00:14
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Phy posted:In Alberta, but when I got my insurance I ended up with something from Morgex that's pretty reasonable - a few hundo a year - so, not the pocket change that some people pay in the states, but nowhere near $3000 more than the bike itself, that's hosed up. For comparison, I also tried Meloche, since that's who my car and home are through cause their alumnus discount is decent, and they wanted like 2-3 times as much as the Morgex quote. First time I did it I went down the old Banff road to Canmore, then down through kanaskis to black diamond. It was September though and the weather turned for poo poo down there (first time I've ridden in snow and 4" of sleet on the road!), so we got some hot food and slabbed it back through Okatoks to avoid the weather. Second time was some roads my friend knows down to Crowsnest, thought there to Cranbrook and some nice backroads around there, up to Golden (was going to go to Radium, but that road was closed for fires. Hot springs were good tho) and back along the trans Canada. It was August though so the weather turned for poo poo and we froze our assed off through Field and kicking horse pass. Worth it though. But I might try July next time.
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Mar 13, 2019 00:57
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Yeah between the 1a and the Highwood, you already hit the two big Decent Roads near Calgary. If you're on something that likes gravel your options are a little more open. Anyway the 95 is ok, if you're ever back that way don't miss the road from Invermere up to Panorama. The 93 from Radium back to AB can be fun (especially the uphill out of Radium to the Big Corner (you'll know it when you see it)) but further on there's lots of people passing in the oncoming lane and the road surface is crappy. I almost died there once! The real treat is the 3A to 31 to 31A route from Creston to New Denver. Entirely doable as a 2-day trip from Calgary and takes in some of the best riding in BC. I also did the 6 from Fauquier to Vernon a couple years ago and I'm dying to do it again. E: I have never not been rained on between Cranbrook and Creston.
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Mar 13, 2019 01:35
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I've got some paint flaking off the valve cover, just down to the primer. Is it possible to touch this up or do I need to repaint the whole thing at once?
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Mar 13, 2019 15:19
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Renaissance Robot posted:I've got some paint flaking off the valve cover, just down to the primer. Is it possible to touch this up or do I need to repaint the whole thing at once? It's possible to touch it up, but it probably won't be a great result. Repainting the valve cover is a huge pain to do well and you're not guaranteed a good result there either. Accepting it as patina is cheap and easy.
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Mar 13, 2019 15:24
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Isn't that likely to be powder coat anyway?
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Mar 13, 2019 19:22
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It's definitely paint. Looking up prices it would actually be cheaper to have it powdercoated (£18.50) than to buy a tiny bottle of touch up paint (£30), but I'd have to be without it for over a week while it's in the post and getting done. I'll see if I can find anything generic in Halfords or whatever, and just keep hitting it with ACF in the meantime.
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Mar 14, 2019 13:07
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Renaissance Robot posted:It's definitely paint. Looking up prices it would actually be cheaper to have it powdercoated (£18.50) than to buy a tiny bottle of touch up paint (£30), but I'd have to be without it for over a week while it's in the post and getting done. Counterpoint: if you have it powdercoated you could make it an awesome color like aquamarine or bright pink.
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Mar 14, 2019 17:52
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Dirt bike goons, bequeath me your wisdom. I've got a fella with a carbed '10 KX250F who wanted more punch but to keep his bike (which has some bling cycle parts) instead of just getting a 350/450. It now has a 300cc kit, head rebuilt with stainless valves under factory cams. He uses it exclusively for amateur thrashing at MX tracks, no trails no slow stuff no open stuff. He wanted more punch so as not to have to change gear so much. Midrange punch requirement is now satisfied, but evidently the extra torque and performance means the gearing is now too short to use said punch. He's often stuck either hitting the limiter in 3rd or being forced to hook 4th right before a jump or w/e, wants to be able to hold on to 3rd for a little while longer, spread out the useable torque a little. Current sprockets: 13F/48R - 77km/h@11,000rpm in 3rd according to gearing commander My options are: 14F/48R - 82km/h 13F/46R - 80km/h 14F/46R - 86km/h This guy isn't competent enough to swap and try different combos at the track so I'm trying to pick the best combination I can from the start. 14/46 would be ideal obviously, but I'm worried about gutting his lower gear acceleration. Am I overthinking this? Is 9km/h vs a few hundred rpm a big deal in this scenario? I know such a big final drive change would absolutely neuter a relatively fast I4 road bike.
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Mar 15, 2019 05:01
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Fit a bicycle derailer to the sprockets so he can choose on the fly.
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Mar 15, 2019 16:35
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His problem is that mx bikes are meant to be riding right in MAXIMUM POWER BAND. Particularly 250s. Imo the real answer is he needs to get better or get a 450 if he wants to lug it more. That’s pretty unhelpful though, so I’d go with just the new rear 46R because you said he’s just forced to change and that’s the easiest thing to switch out. If he’s consistently hitting the limiter early and doesn’t want to shift then I’d try 14/48. I bet 14/46 is just going to be too drastic a change for him though.
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Mar 15, 2019 18:19
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[url]https://www.motosport.com/rekluse-radiusx-clutch-kit?variant[REK000I]=REK000I-X001-Y006[/url]
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Mar 15, 2019 19:26
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There used to be a track day thread that I was going to post this in, but it hasn't been used since 2017 so I'll post it here: Does anyone have experience with "2Fast Motorcycle Track Day and Instruction" in the PNW? Specifically the Pacific Raceway in Kent? I'm thinking about giving track riding another shot (my only attempt was at a mixed-skill level day and I was being passed at speeds I felt were unsafe) but I'd like to take at least a class or two, so I'm thinking about signing up for the "Performance School" on June 14th.
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Mar 23, 2019 17:04
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A mildly related question: Whenever I see motojournalists hanging off bikes they ride for Internet videos it looks exactly like the picture in Total Control labelled "incorrect". What's going on here?
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Mar 23, 2019 19:14
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Most auto/tech/lifestyle journalists don't have a clue what they're doing
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Mar 23, 2019 19:34
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pun pundit posted:A mildly related question: Whenever I see motojournalists hanging off bikes they ride for Internet videos it looks exactly like the picture in Total Control labelled "incorrect". What's going on here? Trying hard to look cool.
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Mar 23, 2019 19:35
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pun pundit posted:A mildly related question: Whenever I see motojournalists hanging off bikes they ride for Internet videos it looks exactly like the picture in Total Control labelled "incorrect". What's going on here? Knee down at all costs. At. All. Costs.
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Mar 23, 2019 19:44
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Sagebrush posted:
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Mar 24, 2019 10:23
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Journalists don't exist anymore
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Mar 24, 2019 11:38
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I'd disagree with that, the people now calling themselves journalists are just as ill-informed, opinionated, and venal as any from any so-called golden age, the only difference is it's easier to catch them in their bullshit. Journalism has been poo poo for long enough for Twain's line about "The Press is always accurate unless they happen to be reporting on something of which you have personal knowledge" to still ring true a century and a half later.
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Mar 25, 2019 10:46
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Stupid question, is there a trick to bar end mirrors/anything installation? I tried to put a pair in on my Rex yesterday, it's of the type where there's a cone at the far end of an allen bolt, that expands a chuck that should grip the inside of the bar. (It also came with a larger chuck that slips over the smaller one, which I thought was to adapt it to larger bars, but the manufacturer says it's only for 7/8" bars, so...?) Anyway, I tightened the allen bolt and it held kind of ok, but with just a little pressure the mirror assembly spun counterclockwise which immediately loosened the chuck. So do I need to put, like, a rubber sleeve in over top of the chuck so it grips better or something?
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Mar 25, 2019 17:13
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ADINSX posted:There used to be a track day thread that I was going to post this in, but it hasn't been used since 2017 so I'll post it here: This has nothing to do with 2Fast Motorcycle Track Day and Instruction but, when I did my first track day I was left behind by everyone, even this one dude on like a FGS 800 or 600 or something. It was a little German ADV bike. And, naturally, I got passed by everyone coming around the next few laps. The second time I did a track day, I was catching people in the corners and passing them on the straights (the only place you were allowed to pass). It was weird and scary the first time, but once I got used to it and more comfortable, I was riding like a journalist. Also, maybe you should find a trackday provider called 2Safe
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Mar 25, 2019 18:40
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Phy posted:Stupid question, is there a trick to bar end mirrors/anything installation? I tried to put a pair in on my Rex yesterday, it's of the type where there's a cone at the far end of an allen bolt, that expands a chuck that should grip the inside of the bar. (It also came with a larger chuck that slips over the smaller one, which I thought was to adapt it to larger bars, but the manufacturer says it's only for 7/8" bars, so...?) Anyway, I tightened the allen bolt and it held kind of ok, but with just a little pressure the mirror assembly spun counterclockwise which immediately loosened the chuck. Ok so the first thing to realise here is that cheap bar end mirrors are garbage so depending on what you've got it may or may not be possible to make them work properly at all. What you're describing sounds a lot like $30 eBay specials so there's a limit to what's possible. In all likelihood you just haven't tightened the screw anywhere near enough, what I've had to do in the past is manually bench tighten it until it's expanded enough to be a snug fit in the bar so you have to tap it in there. Then tighten the almighty gently caress out of the bolt, much more than would normally be reasonable. This won't guarantee they can't come off, because the crap design usually means that rotating the mirror assembly causes the expansion bolt to loosen because there's nothing isolating the two. The far, far better variety are the ones that clamp around the outside of the bar, but those come with their own issues as they usually mean shortening/moving the grips to make space. Tl;Dr 99% of bar end mirrors are garbage, it's just one of those things, if you want good working mirrors get normal mirrors.
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Mar 25, 2019 19:07
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Slavvy posted:Tl;Dr 99% of bar end mirrors are garbage, it's just one of those things, if you want good working mirrors get normal mirrors. The style that clamp onto the bar end sometimes work better but at the end of the day if you want a good set you have to pay through the nose for them (and for a set of bar ends that work with them, unless you own a lathe).
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Mar 25, 2019 21:13
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Try it with and without the little shim, and as previously stated, pretty much tighten it until you start to deform the Allen-head on the screw, maybe try using the mirror itself to snug it up a bit more. It really boils down to it being a less than ideal mounting method for something like a mirror, because the lever arm provided by that mirror is relatively huge, and any moment on it in the acw direction tends to loosen it.
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Mar 25, 2019 21:28
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I gave up on those universal bar ends for the reasons listed. Just when you think you've got them, you either walk by and bump it and the thing spins or you go to adjust the mirror and instead of adjusting the mirrors you spin the mirror mount in the tube. gently caress those things. Good mirrors in stock threaded holes are the way to go, with extensions if necessary: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-M...332031157&psc=1
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Mar 26, 2019 22:57
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 well, thank god for that
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Mar 28, 2019 22:04
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Sagebrush posted:
dasharez0ne is really going hard on that merchandise grift.
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Mar 28, 2019 23:26
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Can you get scoliosis in your forearm?
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Mar 29, 2019 02:17
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I'm thinking about building a scrambler (in terms of practicality, don't care at all about aesthetics), wanted to get an idea of feasability. I've been looking for a street-legal 125cc road trail, which it seems like nobody has made or imported in Australia for ~30 years. I am not a serious dirt rider, but would like it to be capable of handling reasonable trails, as well as the occasional 80kph commute. I am thinking of using a CB125e as a base: they are easy to find, inexpensive, and reliable. I owned one for 2 years and quite liked it for what it was, but at the time I couldn't find anything other than street tyres to fit its weird little 18" wheels. A guy in a local riding group turned me on to some Shinkos that will apparently fit. I think after that, suspension would be my next concern - what should I be looking for as far as parts availability? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Mar 29, 2019 |
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Mar 29, 2019 22:09
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I think it's a fine idea, but why not get a proper modern scramber- The DualSport. I believe this is what you meant by a roadtrail. You might not find something as low as a 125cc, but a DR200/350 or similar would fit the bill. Or just get a Grom with some DS tires.
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Mar 30, 2019 02:15
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Recently purchased a 06 Vstar 650. Trying to lift the bike up to change brake fluid, oil, and final drive oil. I bought this lift from harbor freight today https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lbs-Capacity-ATVMotorcycle-Lift-61632.html Problem is the engine sticks out from the frame a bit, which would mean i would have to lift on the engine itself. I read on the star forums that people are using 2x4 under the frame to make space for the engine when they lift. My problem with that the lift has like no clearance for me to fit the 2x4 under the frame. I have sportsbike lifts so I'm thinking of using the front tire sportbike lift (https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/pit-bull-hybrid-forklift-stand) to lift the front then use the jack i bought to lift the back end behind the engine and stick car jacks under the frame. Is this a bad idea? Not sure if you guys have any suggestion for the clearance. I don't know if i described my idea properly might just go ahead and do it and post pictures of it. Edit: Found something kind of using my idea, https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-KrKk_YXL4TTGgxLVBPVWJrblk/edit Basically going to do the bottom part with the two car jacks and the front tire lift. I cant fit any wood on the lift to accommodate the engine. Keegers fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Mar 30, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2019 05:09
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Keegers posted:Recently purchased a 06 Vstar 650. Trying to lift the bike up to change brake fluid, oil, and final drive oil. I bought this lift from harbor freight today https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lbs-Capacity-ATVMotorcycle-Lift-61632.html Not familiar with the Vstar, but is it necessary to jack it up to do those things? When I've needed to change a tyre I push my bike over on its side stand and toe one of my car jack stands under the frame. Coydog posted:I think it's a fine idea, but why not get a proper modern scramber- The DualSport. I believe this is what you meant by a roadtrail. You might not find something as low as a 125cc, but a DR200/350 or similar would fit the bill. We call them road trails here  Should have mention I've actually got a KLR650 already, I'm specifically after something that small because I'd like to put it on a hitch rack, and 125cc is the cutoff for half price registration. In theory I could also get a 30+ year old XR250 or something (also half price rego), but I think it'd be more hassle than its worth. I have thought of the Grom, but they're still fairly pricey on the used market. Braaap makes a Grom clone called the Urban which is about half the cost, but I'm leary of them because China (also the fact the company is in recievership now, in large part due to dodgy import practices). I'm also not crazy about the height - it looks like a hoot to ride, but would worry more about it going through water than I would a full sized bike. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:06 on Mar 30, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2019 05:23
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Keegers posted:Recently purchased a 06 Vstar 650. Trying to lift the bike up to change brake fluid, oil, and final drive oil. I bought this lift from harbor freight today https://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lbs-Capacity-ATVMotorcycle-Lift-61632.html Where are you working on the bike? If there are rafters or something overhead that will bear weight, you can lift it as you've described and use ratchet straps on the handle bars / grab rails to anchor the bike from above just in case it gets knocked off the jack stands (I assume that's what you meant by car jacks)
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Mar 30, 2019 05:30
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Jazzzzz posted:Where are you working on the bike? If there are rafters or something overhead that will bear weight, you can lift it as you've described and use ratchet straps on the handle bars / grab rails to anchor the bike from above just in case it gets knocked off the jack stands (I assume that's what you meant by car jacks) In a garage, I could try drilling something into the ceiling to keep it stable. I was thinking of placing one car Jack on each side of the frame to balance it out with the front wheel lift
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Mar 30, 2019 06:08
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You're gonna drop your bike dude, just use a car Jack or ratchet straps to unload the suspension a little bit and make room for the 2x4s, or find a smaller spacer than a 2x4. Those front wheel stands are super unstable, and their meant for little, light, sportbikes, not big chonky V-stars.
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Mar 30, 2019 07:54
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I have that lift and my XJ600 had low-hanging exhaust causing the same problem. I always have a pile of short bits of 2x4 end cuts around, so I’d stick them here and there on the frame until it was supported. I’ve also taken a longer piece of 4x4 and jammed it up under the frame just behind the headstock with a floorjack to unload the fork for front wheel removal. Even with jack stands under the engine guards that’s a sketchy method though.
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Mar 30, 2019 09:19
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Elviscat posted:You're gonna drop your bike dude, just use a car Jack or ratchet straps to unload the suspension a little bit and make room for the 2x4s, or find a smaller spacer than a 2x4. Those front wheel stands are super unstable, and their meant for little, light, sportbikes, not big chonky V-stars. I'll try that. Thanks
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Mar 30, 2019 18:27
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Kawasaki didn't include a little wrench for adjusting rear preload in the stupid "tool kit" that came with the Z900RS. Are the diameters of these things fairly standardized? I was thinking I could just score something like that Motion Pro wrench on eBay for adjusting those rings without resorting to pounding on them with a screwdriver, which sounds like a bad idea and I have no idea why jerks on advrider think it's cute to suggest doing that instead of using a tool designed for the task.
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Apr 3, 2019 02:19
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Frosty- posted:I have no idea why jerks on advrider think it's cute to suggest doing that instead of using a tool designed for the task. my Hawk GT came with an undersized bolt that the PO had built up with electrical tape to jam-fit in the hole
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Apr 3, 2019 03:04
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