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Hey y’all trying to solve these drat led conversion issues so any assistance is appreciated 2004 Grand Cherokee 5.7 4x4 Limited. I’m restoring my mothers - she absolutely loves the car and I’m doing a buncha stuff (suspension, brakes, interior reupholstering etc) And I’m stuck on the lights. I bought the full LED headlight and tail lights, bought the led bulbs, but I’m struggling finding replacements for these: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/omix-ada-tail-light-multifunction-bulb-1240805/10179492-P What would the led equivalent to these be? Edit other problem solved! Amy Pole Her fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 01:42
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Yeah old school blinkers are based on current draw. You'd need to do some math and figure out a resistor to run in parallel so you're drawing the same current.
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Apr 5, 2019 02:00
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I’m shocked there’s no bulb out there made for it. Giving these a try - they are a little Beefier than the white led ones i have that are struggling https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F132331761104 It it doesn’t work then darn. That’s sad. These led amber turn signal / day light bulbs are super nice. Edit: Okay there’s a fix https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/led-light-load-resistor-kit-led-turn-signal-hyper-flash-warning-fix/190/ Seems easy enough! Amy Pole Her fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 02:06
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Amy Pole Her posted:Hey y’all trying to solve these drat led conversion issues so any assistance is appreciated I'm assuming it must be a 2005 WK, because 1999-04 WJ Grands don't have any 1157 bulbs. But that sure looks like an 1157 to me. Personally, for tail lights, if you can find a not too obnoxious replacement housing with integrated LEDs, those look way better than LED bulbs.
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Apr 5, 2019 02:27
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Nope, 2004 WJ. The front turn signals are the thin wide slot bulbs while the rear are the type i posted, a push and twist bulb. I bought 4 resistor kits, and I’m going to convert the rears to match the sockets my front have. Same specs as my current one and will allow me to run the same leds i have up front Amy Pole Her fucked around with this message at 04:34 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 04:31
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When the hell did the small 1 lb refrigerant cans go to the self-sealing type? That was highly annoying when I bought a can of refrigerant last night, and discovered I'd have to buy an adapter to use my normal can tap. I mean, it's only another $3, but still annoying when you haven't bought a can in a bit, and just another thing to leak/break. Just glad I noticed before I left the store. Also  at the price difference between Autozone and Walmart. Autozone: $16.99 for a single can. Walmart: <$5. It's the same thing inside the can. 
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Apr 5, 2019 08:52
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MrOnBicycle posted:Tyres? Geoj posted:Or alignment, ball joints, shocks, wheel(s) out of balance, etc. Well, tomorrow I'm getting 4 new corners as they're nearly not road legal, and the rear left has cords showing. The new rubber comes with a balancing so hopefully that'll get ruled out by fixing it or not. The front shocks I got were new, so they should be fine, but there is a suspiciously suspension-y creak if I take a left hander at speed downhill. This is a front wheel drive car. But I had a FWD car in the past where it'd creak much more even after rebuilding the entire corner from the halfshaft out (hit a kerb at speed, no body damage). I'll update with what happens or not
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Apr 5, 2019 09:41
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STR posted:When the hell did the small 1 lb refrigerant cans go to the self-sealing type? I just buy cans of air duster, they have R134a
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Apr 5, 2019 09:43
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simplefish posted:Nothing found for either my frame number or VIN, unfortunately. The eagle-eyed among you will have noticed the fuse box lid has a square saying VSC and 40A and a space in the real fuse box. VSC is apparently to do with measuring vehicle speed, who knew? I got my mitts on a fuse and now there is an "ABS" light that comes on when I ready the ignition before cranking it. It goes off as it should, it's just new, that's all. I did try to test my ABS, and while it wasn't the familiar pedal shaking, the van did seem to get its braking more-less-more-less maybe in 0.3-0.5s each part of the cycle so I assumed it was working and was just crap on that model. I'll of course check ABS again when I can but it passed the annual brake test it needs to stay road legal before I put that fuse in, so I was never in too much danger, I suppose. Still no Overdrive Off light on the dash, and no O/D kicking in, whether or not O/D button is pressed on or off, so the VSC fuse didn't fix that sadly simplefish fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 09:48
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simplefish posted:Well, tomorrow I'm getting 4 new corners as they're nearly not road legal, and the rear left has cords showing. The new rubber comes with a balancing so hopefully that'll get ruled out by fixing it or not. If they are that worn they are probably out of balance.
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Apr 5, 2019 10:03
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spankmeister posted:I just buy cans of air duster, they have R134a Not all of them. Many are 152a now, which is not something you want to mix, but is awesome for doing R12 retrofits.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:31
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STR posted:When the hell did the small 1 lb refrigerant cans go to the self-sealing type? What the heck is this now with an adapter? Always get a chuckle out of prices of Walmart stuff vs Autozone, et al. with just basic car supplies.
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Apr 5, 2019 15:45
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:What the heck is this now with an adapter? I had to google it, apparently new cans come with a valve to let the gas out, like a glorified schrader valve, instead of the ol pierce-and-dump method. so of course it requires a different connector to hook it up to a gauge set, need a thing to depress the plunger.
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Apr 5, 2019 18:56
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Fender Anarchist posted:I had to google it, apparently new cans come with a valve to let the gas out, like a glorified schrader valve, instead of the ol pierce-and-dump method. so of course it requires a different connector to hook it up to a gauge set, need a thing to depress the plunger. Is this some CA thing?
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Apr 5, 2019 19:03
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I have a 2009 Kia Sedona and the front blower motor connector has failed. It more or less fell apart into a couple chunks that are no longer holding the spade connectors inside together, so the blower only ru s intermittently. This was obviously a previous owner problem as well, as the connector shows signs of having been wrapped in electrical tape. What's the best way to replace this? I haven't been able to find this connector online but I feel I might just not be searching the right terms. I'd like to avoid cutting and wirenutting the connection if possible, because blowers do go bad. I can upload pictures later, but just imagine a totally fuckered blower connector and you're basically there.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:10
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Oh, don't wire nut in a car. Vibration, etc. Just about anything else would be better, including insulated crimps. You can buy weatherpak connectors, just be sure to get enough pins and an adequate current rating.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:24
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Amy Pole Her posted:Nope, 2004 WJ. The front turn signals are the thin wide slot bulbs while the rear are the type i posted, a push and twist bulb. Have the housings already been swapped? My '03 WJ with stock taillights has 3157 bulbs, which look nothing like the ones you linked. Also, there's no shortage of LED replacements if you search "3157 LED". If I was ever going to swap mine to LEDs on the rear of mine, I was going to go for something more like this:  STR posted:Also It's loving stupid how cheap Walmart is and how expensive everyone else is on that product. Plastik posted:I have a 2009 Kia Sedona and the front blower motor connector has failed. It more or less fell apart into a couple chunks that are no longer holding the spade connectors inside together, so the blower only ru s intermittently. First, what Queen Combat said - wire nuts have no place on a vehicle. Second, the best solution would be to find a brand new replacement connector, depin the remnants of your existing connector, and put the pins in the new one (replacing / recrimping as needed). Looking at pictures of the blower motor connector on some replacement fans on Rockauto, here's the route I would probably take, being a cheapskate who at the same time values working HVAC and a lack of vehicle fires. Those terminals look like they'd probably accept a generic female spade connector, which will probably be a tighter fit and stay put without needing the rest of the plastic connector body. So I'd just crimp a couple of insulated female spades on and make sure to pay attention to which is which.
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Apr 5, 2019 19:42
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Queen Combat posted:Oh, don't wire nut in a car. Vibration, etc. Just about anything else would be better, including insulated crimps. This right here. Anything outside the trunk or cabin should be weather tight as well. Heat shrink butt crimps are nice for that. It's not ideal, but you can use a lighter for the heat as long as you're careful around anything flammable. Note: doesn't work on a windy day outside. Even if you get your lighter to light, the wind will blow all the heat away. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Apr 5, 2019 |
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Apr 5, 2019 19:56
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Assuming those are 1157s, which looks about right, and someone referenced above, Sylvania makes them (in white/red/amber): https://www.sylvania-automotive.com/products/interior-and-exterior-bulbs/zevo-led/1157_zevo.jsp Pro-tip: They make most of them, so "ZEVO <bulb number>" will usually pull them up. And they're significantly better than cheap amazon/fleabay/chinese bulbs.
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Apr 5, 2019 20:54
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The connector in question is in the cabin, under the glove compartment, so weatherproofing is not an issue. The problem is that both sides of the connector are deteriorated, so I can't just replace one side with spades because they could still touch. Is there anywhere I can buy that plastic housing for a couple bucks?
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Apr 5, 2019 21:50
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Post a picture. There's tons of connectors out there but it's not mpossible to ID visually.
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Apr 5, 2019 22:14
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It's this thing, right? They make fully covered spade connectors, replace the hosed connector with two of them and you're good.
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Apr 5, 2019 22:32
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My vehicle (97 Wrangler) is pretty heavily modified from stock, including a 350 SBC swap, and a rear axle swap (8.8). How would I go about determining my towing capacity now? I'm looking to pull a camper with it for travel.
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Apr 5, 2019 22:38
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Karma Comedian posted:My vehicle (97 Wrangler) is pretty heavily modified from stock, including a 350 SBC swap, and a rear axle swap (8.8). How would I go about determining my towing capacity now? I'm looking to pull a camper with it for travel. I wouldn't consider a wrangler to have any more towing capacity than it did before based on that. The problem isn't the power/drivetrain durability, it's the short wheelbase and light weight. Pop up camper? Sure. 18'+ travel trailer? No.
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Apr 5, 2019 22:52
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Plastik posted:The connector in question is in the cabin, under the glove compartment, so weatherproofing is not an issue. Maybe, maybe not, at least not for a couple bucks. The wiring part you're looking for is called a "pigtail". Some manufacturers make them available, some don't (gently caress you, Nissan). Auto stores will have the more common connectors: alternator, fuel injectors, headlights, etc. Some sites like https://www.repairconnector.com have lots for American cars. Last resort is https://www.findpigtails.com. They got tons, but they're expensive! Still, they had the correct pigtail for my wife's Versa tail light when nobody else did.
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Apr 5, 2019 23:14
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Is the removal of front cv axles in a 2006 outback sport the same as a pre 2008 WRX?
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Apr 6, 2019 00:31
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Having some oddness in my MK2 Golf's replacement transmission. Basically it works completely normally except it doesn't go into neutral when put into park, so I end up with reverse with a parking pawl holding it. The transmission is 100% mechanical so it's not an electric thing. I suspect a bad seal in the valve body but does anyone know of any other potential causes? Adjustment seems to be correct on the shifter cable. It does go into neutral fine in the neutral position. e: nevermind, apparently the trans needs a different shifter with a longer shaft since it is from an older car, I wasn't physically reaching park even after adjustment. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 01:14
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How much better are more expensive tyres? I was offered 4x Daytons for equivalent 345 USD There was also the of option 4x Firestones for equivalent 445 USD Both prices fitted, balanced, and inclusive of tax. I don't drive hard, it's a 20 year old minivan, and the maximum legal speed in this entire country is 60mph. As my family always could only afford budget tyres and sometimes only 2nd hand tyres growing up, I went for the Daytons, as I've never been in a car and thought "I wish it had different tyres" - and I'm fine with that choice - but I'm wondering if what was described to me as a "Tier 2" tyre is really $25 better than a "Tier 4" tyre Has anyone used Firestones and were they that much better on a poo poo car driving slowly? simplefish fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 05:08
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Javid posted:It's this thing, right? Yep - they'll be surrounded by plastic like this:  Worst case, throw some heatshrink around the uninsulated type. Pretty much the same thing.
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Apr 6, 2019 05:33
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simplefish posted:How much better are more expensive tyres? I'm not a fan of used tires, but understand why people do it and think it's broadly fine, as a concept. (Meaning: I wouldn't do it, but it's not inherently wrong.) Above that lower limit, tires exist as a more or less normal good with some subcategories (rain/snow, offroad, performance, etc.) and you're not going to observe any difference in particular on a minivan which isn't driven hard. Edit: Or, the longer version that has happened here before: skooma512 posted:Time for new tires. Krakkles posted:Nope. Go on tire rack, search the size, pick the cheapest/highest treadwear tire you feel comfortable with. Michael Scott posted:Are you saying tires literally don't differ in terms of experience between manufacturers or models? I thought checking specific model reviews on tire rack was important. Krakkles posted:Not quite. At a very basic functional level, most (all?) manufacturers make tires that are very much normal goods. Tires for a specialized purpose are a very different story, of course. scuz posted:That goes against all I've ever learned when people were telling me "don't cheap-out on things that separate you from the ground, i.e. shoes, bed, tires." Krakkles posted:That's good advice, honestly. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Apr 6, 2019 |
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Apr 6, 2019 06:19
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kid sinister posted:This right here. Cool seal butts are great and don't take any extra time. They hold up fine way past the point a heat shrink butt lets moisture through.
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Apr 6, 2019 06:33
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spankmeister posted:I just buy cans of air duster, they have R134a Not for several years - most have been 152a for more than a minute.
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Apr 6, 2019 08:16
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STR posted:Not for several years - most have been 152a for more than a minute. Idk what bootleg Chinese factory seconds I have then but they say R134a on them. But honestly I cannot recommend it unless you're ghetto like me. Just get a bottle of the proper refrigerant.
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Apr 6, 2019 11:19
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simplefish posted:How much better are more expensive tyres? Price only roughly correlates with quality. Different tires work better on different cars, as well. Really cheap tires are almost universally terrible, but expensive tires aren't necessarily good. Tires are the only part of your vehicle that actually touches the road, so their performance has a huge impact on how your car behaves. It's worth it so spend the money for decent quality. We put some Vredenstein Quatrac 5's on our van and they're fantastic (replacing some Firestones the nice man behind the counter had recommended last time). She complained at first that the new tires felt "greasy." I tried it myself. The van would start turning the instant you turned the wheel, rather than having to spin it about 30° before getting any change in direction. I told her that was what "responsiveness" feels like and she was too used to crappy tires. The Vredensteins are about the same price as the Firestones, so treat yourself.
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Apr 6, 2019 16:16
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I just heard my wife's 2013 Honda Accord (V6 engine) make a terrible noise while starting. It sounded like engaging the starter while the engine was already running (the tiny gears grinding away noise), however her car is an electronic start. It also made the noise but the engine didn't turn over (the engine had just been running a few minutes prior). She said this has happened with the engine cold, warm (as in the case I just heard it) and today is a pretty normal day in the mid 60s. The next time she hit the starter button, the engine started up as fine. Is it possible the starter is sticking or engaging wrong?
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Apr 6, 2019 17:06
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Hed posted:I just heard my wife's 2013 Honda Accord (V6 engine) make a terrible noise while starting. It sounded like engaging the starter while the engine was already running (the tiny gears grinding away noise), however her car is an electronic start. It also made the noise but the engine didn't turn over (the engine had just been running a few minutes prior). She said this has happened with the engine cold, warm (as in the case I just heard it) and today is a pretty normal day in the mid 60s. The next time she hit the starter button, the engine started up as fine. It's probably that it's not fully engaging. This is something to take care of sooner rather than later because it's probably grinding on the flywheel teeth and that's a whole lot more labor to change than a starter.
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Apr 6, 2019 17:13
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Motronic posted:I wouldn't consider a wrangler to have any more towing capacity than it did before based on that. This is absolutely right. Except even a pop up is questionable. Even a new Wrangler with ~300 hp and brakes that hold up if you ride them down a mountain, the tow rating is 2000 lbs because a trailer will have little trouble whipping you right off the fuckin' road.
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Apr 6, 2019 17:25
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 Here's my hosed AC plug. You can't tell very well in the photo, but both sides are held together by epoxy. Probably just going to grab two shrouded spade connectors and replace the whole thing.
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Apr 6, 2019 17:47
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Godholio posted:This is absolutely right. Except even a pop up is questionable. Yeah, depending on the weight of the pop up you're probably right. I'd definitely want a load distribution hitch and an anti-sway on it, but at least with a pop up you don't have as much surface area to get pushed around by the wind. And I don't just mean a weather event, I mean you'd poo poo yourself getting passed by a semi on the highway kind of wind.
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Apr 6, 2019 17:57
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So how big of a mistake is going down to Les Scwab for tires? My wife is brand loyal for years now but I am less and les (pun intended) satisfied with the service and I don't know enough about tires to know if they are screwing me or not. I know you are going to pay a little for the warranty and free rotations, but I'm more concerned about getting sold some crappy tires. What should I look for in a tire for 3 seasons (we have winter tires) for a Mazda 5 (half way between a hatchback and a minivan)? Pre-edit: I'm looking at the tire rack website and the options are summer, winter, and all seasons. We have winter tires for November to April but we live in Portland so it rains all but like 3 months of the year, and my wife is in all sorts of stop and go on the freeways. Do I want all seasons or summer tires?
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Apr 6, 2019 18:24
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