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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Y’all actin like you don’t test 9v batteries by licking them 18 years ago, I would check to make sure my 320i's distributor was giving spark by taking a spark plug boot off of a spark plug and holding a butter knife inside the boot, then cranking the engine.
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May 2, 2019 19:56
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Sagebrush posted:What, do you have a pacemaker or something? It works fine and wakes you right up. Literally set my first bike on fire this way. MomJeans420 posted:I need a new chain and sprocket, OEM is 525 chain and steel sprockets, but it looks like I have more options and it's a bit cheaper to get a 520 complete set. Is there really a difference in modern chains by going with 520 over 525? And I'm assuming I'm fine staying with steel rather than aluminum? I already have way more power than I need, so I'd rather have longevity over some tiny performance boost, unless it's dumb to stick with steel now. I don't want any crazy color so black sprocket and natural chain is fine with me. 520 is strong enough for multiple sessions on a motoGP bike, you'll be fine. Most suppliers do a conversation kit that comes with the correct sprockets etc. Nobody needs alloy sprockets, not even race bikes run alloy sprockets cause it's a good way to not finish races. Slide Hammer posted:18 years ago, I would check to make sure my 320i's distributor was giving spark by taking a spark plug boot off of a spark plug and holding a butter knife inside the boot, then cranking the engine. Literally me but a 635csi and 1/4" extension.
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May 2, 2019 20:36
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Slavvy posted:520 is strong enough for multiple sessions on a motoGP bike, you'll be fine. Most suppliers do a conversation kit that comes with the correct sprockets etc. Nobody needs alloy sprockets, not even race bikes run alloy sprockets cause it's a good way to not finish races. 
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May 2, 2019 21:13
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builds character posted:excuse me, please never speak to me or my $120 zirconium sprocket again What in the actual gently caress is this? I'm serious I've never seen that before.
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May 3, 2019 02:39
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Slavvy posted:What in the actual gently caress is this? I'm serious I've never seen that before. Useless bling? https://dirttricks.com/product-category/sprockets/se-rear-sprockets/ I mean, I’m sure their claims about weight and life are true, but it ain’t the sprocket that’s slowing you (me, anyway) down.
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May 3, 2019 04:40
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The real weight saving hack is to remove the front end and just wheelie everywhere
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May 3, 2019 06:59
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builds character posted:Useless bling? This is like those sperm shaped pushbike helmets isn't it.
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May 3, 2019 08:55
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Renaissance Robot posted:The real weight saving hack is to remove the front end and just wheelie everywhere Anything before skipping beer and pizza and going to the gym is worth it.
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May 3, 2019 14:44
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Coydog posted:Anything before skipping beer and pizza and going to the gym is worth it. Hello, zirconium sprocket-having friend. Slavvy posted:This is like those sperm shaped pushbike helmets isn't it. Basically? Supposedly they're longer lasting than regular sprockets and lighter but do you need to save two ounces of unsprung rear weight vs. losing But, as someone who spent $20 on red billet anodized oil plugs (separate clutch + engine) for my beta, I can't judge anyone who wants to spend the extra money to have a magical rainbow sprocket.
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May 3, 2019 17:03
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I have an aluminum sprocket on my rv90 and it’s stood up just fine against all 8 of its horsepower 
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May 3, 2019 17:34
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Thanks for the sprocket and chain advice, steel and cheap it is! Now to consider going down a tooth on the front sprocket, never really thought of it before but a bunch of guys on my bike forum like it if you spend a lot of time riding around town on your bike. I have TuneEcu and if I could find the drat cable I can change the spedometer in the ECU so it reads correctly, but may be more effort than it's worth
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May 3, 2019 17:54
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MomJeans420 posted:Thanks for the sprocket and chain advice, steel and cheap it is! Now to consider going down a tooth on the front sprocket, never really thought of it before but a bunch of guys on my bike forum like it if you spend a lot of time riding around town on your bike. I have TuneEcu and if I could find the drat cable I can change the spedometer in the ECU so it reads correctly, but may be more effort than it's worth Chains: don't cheap out on the chain itself, yet a DID or similar with o-rings and a rivet link. An extra $80 now is like an extra 10,000km later, provided you take care of it. -1 front sprocket: won't hurt anything, will make the bike nippier, works best on bikes where the torque staircase has been smoothed out which for you should be super easy when you find that cable.
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May 3, 2019 20:02
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yall hate clip links yet mine has held up on the drz through lots of offroad and highway riding, also WOT pinned for miles at a time in sand
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May 4, 2019 16:58
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Ain't a drat thing wrong with clip master links. Never had one fail, nor known a person who's had one fail.
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May 4, 2019 21:09
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ain't a drat thing wrong with clip master links. Never had one fail, nor known a person who's had one fail. Mine failed, but I don't know why. Cost me a lot to get the bike home without a breakdown deal. Thank you for reading this important anecdote.
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May 4, 2019 21:25
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ain't a drat thing wrong with clip master links. Never had one fail, nor known a person who's had one fail. The bigger, more powerful the bike, the more they fail. Which is not to say they play up 'often' but I've seen it happen several times, whereas rivet links are foolproof. When the difference between occasional failure and never ever is like $5, the only question is whether you can be bothered getting a chain riveter or not. My hyosung had one where the clip fell off and the link stayed together no problems for like six months but I don't see that working on a bike with 120hp.
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May 4, 2019 22:19
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How do y'alls be getting the old chain off? Angle grinder on a couple of rivet heads?
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May 4, 2019 22:44
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Renaissance Robot posted:How do y'alls be getting the old chain off? Angle grinder on a couple of rivet heads? I just cut straight through the chain with an angle grinder. Takes about 5 seconds.
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May 4, 2019 22:48
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Renaissance Robot posted:How do y'alls be getting the old chain off? Angle grinder on a couple of rivet heads? Undo the clip 
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May 4, 2019 23:52
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For those without the power tools, the chain tools usually have an insert you can use to press a chain pin out.
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May 5, 2019 00:56
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Renaissance Robot posted:How do y'alls be getting the old chain off? Angle grinder on a couple of rivet heads? If it's chain and sprockets I do this: helstein posted:I just cut straight through the chain with an angle grinder. Takes about 5 seconds. If it's just a chain use this: Infinotize posted:For those without the power tools, the chain tools usually have an insert you can use to press a chain pin out. Because then you can hook the new chain onto the old and pull it through the front sprocket.
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May 5, 2019 01:06
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Ain't a drat thing wrong with clip master links. Never had one fail, nor known a person who's had one fail. I blew two clip master links in three months, both at 80mph on the highway. I had to install another clip link to repair the second break roadside. When I went to a dealership to have it riveted the clip was loving gone, maybe 200 miles after install. I will trust nothing but rivet links ever again tyvm
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May 5, 2019 01:58
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All those who lost clip masters, are you sure the clip was really really on? It's not uncommon from what I've seen for new clip masters to have plates which are just tight enough on the pins that they need to be pressed on with a tool to get them far enough on for the clip grooves to show on the outside. But if you squeeze them on with hand/pliers it looks like they're on, like you can kinda see the grooves. If the grooves are just barely hidden in the plate it's possible to put the clip on in such a way that it feels like it's clipped on but it's not in the groove so it's not really holding everything together. I think the open end of the clip would be not quite closing to touch each end together when installed.
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May 5, 2019 12:56
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What would I use to attack one of these? Square end sprocket nut. There's a tiny bit of hex on it, but would a socket be able to grab it?  Obviously a big ol' spanner could get it off, but how am I supposed to get the torque right when putting it back on?
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May 5, 2019 19:20
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:All those who lost clip masters, are you sure the clip was really really on? It's not uncommon from what I've seen for new clip masters to have plates which are just tight enough on the pins that they need to be pressed on with a tool to get them far enough on for the clip grooves to show on the outside. But if you squeeze them on with hand/pliers it looks like they're on, like you can kinda see the grooves. If the grooves are just barely hidden in the plate it's possible to put the clip on in such a way that it feels like it's clipped on but it's not in the groove so it's not really holding everything together. I think the open end of the clip would be not quite closing to touch each end together when installed. I've seen them fall off in a variety of scenarios but horsepower and improper chain tension seem to be the biggest factors. I did have one guy with a vtr250 that kept chucking them who refused to fork out for the more expensive rivet link chain. I tried 'preloading' the clip by only pressing the link just enough to make it a snug fit in the channels, I also tried pressing it so the clip was able to rattle freely. For the third attempt I put on a bit of safety wire solved the problem. Seems like a lot of hassle and ambiguity when you can just get a rivet link and not think about it  Renaissance Robot posted:What would I use to attack one of these? Can you take a picture of it on the bike? In all likelihood you don't have to torque that, by which I mean you don't have to torque 90% of the bolts on the bike.
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May 5, 2019 21:22
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Not mine, but here's a pic of the same component on a versys:
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May 5, 2019 21:40
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Oh lol. Just use a normal deep socket. If you lack air tools, use those for both removal and installation. I'd suggest getting an assistant to help you; put a long extension on the socket, put a power bar on the extension, put a pipe or something on the power bar to make it six feet long. Get an axle stand or pile up some bricks or wood or something next to the bike so the end of the extension has something to rest on, that way when you're heaving on it you don't have to worry about also keeping it engaged on the nut. Get your assistant to sit on the bike, put it in first gear and absolutely HAMMER the rear brake on while you heave. You'll be amazed how ineffective the brake is at holding back your six foot bar, try to use the fattest friend you have. Don't worry about torquing it to put it back on, just give it the absolute berries and you'll be fine. The rear wheel will spin against the brake before you can possibly over tighten it.
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May 5, 2019 21:49
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I have more sprocket questions because I'm probably definitely going to need to swap them out this summer. Does the rear wheel need to be rebalanced when a new sprocket goes on? Should I use threadlocker on the sprocket nuts?
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May 6, 2019 21:35
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Renaissance Robot posted:I have more sprocket questions because I'm probably definitely going to need to swap them out this summer. 1. Nope, because the hub isn't fastened to the wheel, it's just floating on rubber pads. 2. No, nut lock plates are more common. The definitive answer should be in your maintenance manual since it's a regular wear item.
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May 6, 2019 21:48
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Why would the cooling fans to my '01 DRZ400 not be turning on? I mean, I'm going to find out later this week, it just kind of occurred to me today that I haven't heard them come on in like, a WHILE. gently caress.
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May 7, 2019 02:20
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Check fuses? Has it been overheating?
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May 7, 2019 02:30
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Has it gotten hot enough to need to come on? Mine didn’t run all that much
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May 7, 2019 02:49
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Renaissance Robot posted:I have more sprocket questions because I'm probably definitely going to need to swap them out this summer. To elaborate on what's been said: if the sprocket nuts are locking nuts you don't need to do anything. You can tell they're locking nuts because they'll have a funny looking 'out' face and won't thread on by hand.
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May 7, 2019 02:56
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Revvik posted:Why would the cooling fans to my '01 DRZ400 not be turning on? I mean, I'm going to find out later this week, it just kind of occurred to me today that I haven't heard them come on in like, a WHILE. gently caress. Mine doesn't even have a fan, I had to look up if this was even a thing.
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May 7, 2019 04:01
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Has it gotten hot enough to need to come on? Mine didn’t run all that much I had it running in my garage, getting really hot, with no air flow, to check some stuff. No fans came on. Coolant is full and healthy though, and I ran it through the desert last year like this. No lights are coming on.
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May 7, 2019 14:13
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So a friend of mine is working on a basketcase KZ400 that she is trying to salvage from being a total loss. Something grenaded the previous engine, and the current state of the bike is thus: Engine is a '76 KZ400 engine, appears to be in good working order, but we have not yet fired it up Electricals are all from a '78 KZ400. This is problematic because from 76 to 78 Kawasaki switched from an excited field alternator to a magneto, so the regulator/rectifier units are basically totally incompatible, as far as I can tell. She is sick to death of the project and just wants to get it to a state where the engine can start, and then to sell it. There exist some aftermarket newly-manufactured regulator/rectifier combo units specifically for 76 KZ400s, but it's a small shop type of company and they want 120 dollars for them, which seems pretty unreasonable to me for a 300 watt regrec or whatever. Here's the actual question: It's been a few years since I actually did EE101, but a rec/reg circuit isn't particularly complicated, I'm seeing a ton of cheap Chinese rectifier/regulator units on amazon and ali express that are marketed as being essentially universal. I can't think of a reason that this shouldn't be a legitimate claim since alternator outputs for a lot of bikes do tend to be 3 phase 70 vac. However, the amount of current that the regulator would need to push to the field coil seems like it would be dependent on the number of windings, plus voltage across the field coil would probably depend on the coil resistance. How universal are these specs? From what I've seen on specs for different motorcycle alternators, it doesn't seem like these numbers vary by a huge amount, so my thinking is that one of the universal regulators would be fine. On the other hand, I would rather not suggest something and then have her ignition coil catch on fire or something. Thoughts?
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May 7, 2019 21:56
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Don't 70s KZ400s go for like $6000? $120 doesn't seem like that much if it's all that's standing between you and a running bike.
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May 7, 2019 22:24
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Uhh do they? She got this one for 2400 and it was more or less running. It was cafe-d out and the chrome is pretty bad, so maybe that's the low price? 6k seems kind of implausible to me for a 70ies UJM though, unless it's in like absolutely pristine condition or professionally restomodded though.
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May 7, 2019 22:35
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I managed to eat dirt on a slow corner in the corner. Handlebars are absolutely hosed but everything started up ok and I hopped on and got home. Think I sprained my wrist because I stupidly put my arm out like I was going to catch myself. Now Im home what should I check my bike for? How do I know if everything's ok still?
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May 9, 2019 19:47
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Sure the bars are bent and not just the forks twisted in the triples? Otherwise just give it the usual visual inspection tomorrow to see what got damaged. Basically do a close tclocs and any mission critical breaks will show up. http://frederickhog.org/tips/tclock.htm Take care if yourself now, and check for damages later when you are more clear headed. Coydog fucked around with this message at 23:24 on May 9, 2019 |
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May 9, 2019 23:21
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