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Marzipan Pig posted:Is his crotch distractingly shiney? I can't decide if I need to tone down the big mechanical crotch. There should be an armour piece that goes over it, once that’s on it’ll be fine I think.
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Jun 7, 2019 00:03
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm looking at it from a different perspective; there's nothing preventing you from hitting the Contrast-painted model with a varnish and then adding more to it. I don't think you need to hit it with a varnish as an interim. It's not like it's anything weirdly hydrophobic like an oil-paint or especially prone to reactivating. Though you are supposed to put some protective coat on it afterwards because the contrast paint itself dries as a very thin layer.
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Jun 7, 2019 00:06
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darnon posted:I don't think you need to hit it with a varnish as an interim. It's not like it's anything weirdly hydrophobic like an oil-paint or especially prone to reactivating. Though you are supposed to put some protective coat on it afterwards because the contrast paint itself dries as a very thin layer. I think the point is that with a varnish, you can wipe paint away if you make a mistake without damaging the contrast paint. This is a technique a lot of painters use when doing freehand. You basically "scrub" the paint away with your brush before it has a chance to dry and set.
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Jun 7, 2019 00:10
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Yeast posted:To add to the list; Thanks mate. re Contrast: I really want to know how the contrast black turns out. There was a guy doing a demo at a hobby show, not a great or enthusiastic painter at all, he slammed on the black on the marine's bolt gun and in the follow up video where they were talking about it, the black was really subtle and on camera at least looked really loving good for zero effort. I'm thinking about painting more Templars. 
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Jun 7, 2019 00:13
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Has anyone done contrast paint over zenithal shading yet? Really curious how that would turn out.
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Jun 7, 2019 00:37
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Dienes posted:Has anyone done contrast paint over zenithal shading yet? Really curious how that would turn out. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9V7Imu5fxZI Second part of the video. First attempt doesn't go well because he didn't go heavy enough on the wraithbone. Second time turns out better. Personally I didn't like it, I think it looked too dark in the dark areas. I'm not sure how the model took a dust bath just before the final display with a rotating camera.
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Jun 7, 2019 00:47
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I'm hoping that I'll be able to use contrast through an airbrush like the current GW glazes to tint an undercoat, or to bring together my shades and highlights.
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Jun 7, 2019 01:22
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Marzipan Pig posted:Is his crotch distractingly shiney? I can't decide if I need to tone down the big mechanical crotch. alternately, 
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Jun 7, 2019 02:07
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Marzipan Pig posted:I might actually finish this one day. Maybe if your work surface didn't have women in denim cut-off shorts...?
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Jun 7, 2019 02:09
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Ok?
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Jun 7, 2019 02:10
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*As in he is focusing on the women... ha ha*
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Jun 7, 2019 02:14
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  I painted some heads tonight and scored the hidden achievement where my phone recognizes faces and draws circles over them. I fooled facial recognition and it feels great! 
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Jun 7, 2019 05:05
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moths posted:
Nice! Those are some awesome heads.
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Jun 7, 2019 05:22
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Been meaning to post pictures of this: I did some layering/edge highlighting with Evil Sunz Scarlet on the Redemptor Dreadnought, as well as some drybrushing of Necron Compound on the metal parts.          I imagine it's pretty hard to see, since the quality of the photos isn't that good. Following advice I got on the shading, I mostly did highlights based on where the lights was coming from (most edges along the top.) Overall it looks...passable? (Layer painting/highlighting is still something I haven't grappled with too much) I still need to highlight the black and gold parts, as well as doing the Fire Dragon Bright higlights on the sharpest corners/edges. For the last few weeks, I've been spending my time putting together the Skitarii. I don't have them all primed yet, but here's the Tech Priest and Skitarii commander primed in black.  You'll notice they aren't on bases, and that's because I thought to do the bases separately and then super-glue them on later. A question: is there a a cheaper equivalent to the Citadel base brushes? Some of the WHTV videos show them doing the base paint with the base brushes, and it seems like that's a faster and more efficent way to get the basecoat down on a mini, as opposed to doing it with a fine-tip brush. They also seem like a necessity when doing a vehicle, because doing one with a fine-tip brush would probably drive you crazy. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 05:39 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 05:36
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Did my first dinosaurus!     (Taking close up pictures of your stuff is beyond humbling, I thought I was done but holy poo poo I need to fix some stuff with the base and carriage.) Edit:   *prolonged internal screaming* Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 05:47 on Jun 7, 2019 |
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Jun 7, 2019 05:44
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moths posted:
This is a quality post
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Jun 7, 2019 07:00
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Max Wilco posted:A question: is there a a cheaper equivalent to the Citadel base brushes? Some of the WHTV videos show them doing the base paint with the base brushes, and it seems like that's a faster and more efficent way to get the basecoat down on a mini, as opposed to doing it with a fine-tip brush. They also seem like a necessity when doing a vehicle, because doing one with a fine-tip brush would probably drive you crazy. Yeah, go to Dick Blick or another art supply and look for Golden Taklon brushes, you'll want a filbert or angle style. A lot cheaper than citadel brushes.
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Jun 7, 2019 07:34
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I bought a filbert recently after remembering that Citadel had one years ago. The one I bought is Michael’s brand (ugh), but it feels as smooth as butter when laying down paint, would highly recommend.
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Jun 7, 2019 09:02
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hey guys im just getting back into this hobby and have been watching lots of youtube videos. Really incredible stuff out there but this one guy I happened upon is another level beyond anything I have ever realized is possible. His channel is only like 2 months old and not many views but check out this white scars pain job... He also has videos about his modifications. These are long videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRmgxsEuEYk and this chaos lord... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_vDiP3bZmoM that base. look at it. apology if its been posted before.
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Jun 7, 2019 09:37
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moths posted:I fooled facial recognition and it feels great! Not surprising, though, since those heads are magnificent!
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Jun 7, 2019 11:29
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JackMann posted:I think the point is that with a varnish, you can wipe paint away if you make a mistake without damaging the contrast paint. This is a technique a lot of painters use when doing freehand. You basically "scrub" the paint away with your brush before it has a chance to dry and set. Yes, this was my plan.
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Jun 7, 2019 11:56
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I've been applying some Citadel tufts to the bases of some miniatures for the first time, and I wondered if there's anything I can do to make them look a bit less shiny? Can I wash these gently with some agrax or something? Would that ruin them?
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Jun 7, 2019 14:25
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Gunder posted:I've been applying some Citadel tufts to the bases of some miniatures for the first time, and I wondered if there's anything I can do to make them look a bit less shiny? Can I wash these gently with some agrax or something? Would that ruin them? You can 100% wash them, and I recommend doing so to blend them in with the base a bit and make them look less plopped down. Might be hard to tell because it’s a phone photo, but I washed the tufts here with army painter mid brown. 
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Jun 7, 2019 15:31
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Marzipan Pig posted:Is his crotch distractingly shiney? I can't decide if I need to tone down the big mechanical crotch. It'll be fine as is if you're using the armour plate, otherwise it could do with griming up a bit.
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Jun 7, 2019 15:36
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From Ministomp:quote:Hey Gang,
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Jun 7, 2019 18:42
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Regarding the new GW contrast line, has anyone seen examples of using non-contrast paint over the contrast primer? I'm thinking I want to try some for cloaks etc, but don't want to buy a full line just so I can paint one pouch a particular shade of brown. So could I prime my mini with the contrast primer, use contrast on the cloak and then my regular brown on the pouch? Or will the the special primer mess with my regular paint?
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Jun 7, 2019 18:45
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Seldom Posts posted:Regarding the new GW contrast line, has anyone seen examples of using non-contrast paint over the contrast primer? I'm thinking I want to try some for cloaks etc, but don't want to buy a full line just so I can paint one pouch a particular shade of brown. There's an article up today on Warhammer Community from a guy who painted a Fellowship of the Ring in one day by priming them with the new sprays, using contrast on everything but the metal, and then using Leadbelcher on the metal. If Leadbelcher can go fine over the new primers, then it's not going to be a problem with other paint.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:53
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Seldom Posts posted:Regarding the new GW contrast line, has anyone seen examples of using non-contrast paint over the contrast primer? I'm thinking I want to try some for cloaks etc, but don't want to buy a full line just so I can paint one pouch a particular shade of brown. There's nothing special about the primer. They're just off-white with one being warm toned and the other being cold toned.
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Jun 7, 2019 18:56
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Stephenls posted:There's an article up today on Warhammer Community from a guy who painted a Fellowship of the Ring in one day by priming them with the new sprays, using contrast on everything but the metal, and then using Leadbelcher on the metal. If Leadbelcher can go fine over the new primers, then it's not going to be a problem with other paint. Two Beans posted:There's nothing special about the primer. They're just off-white with one being warm toned and the other being cold toned. Cool, thanks. I will be trying this out.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:15
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Two Beans posted:There's nothing special about the primer. They're just off-white with one being warm toned and the other being cold toned. I thought they had a slight satin finish too to help the contrast flow?
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Jun 7, 2019 19:28
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Zark the Damned posted:I thought they had a slight satin finish too to help the contrast flow? Yeah, they're supposedly formulated to give a smoother finish than their other primers, in order to help the contrast flow.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:34
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Two Beans posted:There's nothing special about the primer. They're just off-white with one being warm toned and the other being cold toned. I don't believe that's entirely true. According to GW they're formulated to work with the contrast paint, and also apparently are resilient to a lot of issues with things like humidity.
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Jun 7, 2019 19:39
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Has there been any more info released about the pricing of Contrast and specifically the price of the bundles? Also, sidenote, I've never heard of Ministomp before and their website is extremely vague...what are they all about?
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Jun 7, 2019 19:48
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Mikey Purp posted:Has there been any more info released about the pricing of Contrast and specifically the price of the bundles? Also, sidenote, I've never heard of Ministomp before and their website is extremely vague...what are they all about? They give deeper discounts than you're allowed to advertise so you have to email them to order things
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Jun 7, 2019 19:56
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Mikey Purp posted:Has there been any more info released about the pricing of Contrast and specifically the price of the bundles? Also, sidenote, I've never heard of Ministomp before and their website is extremely vague...what are they all about? Nope. Nothing. long-rear end nips Diane posted:They give deeper discounts than you're allowed to advertise so you have to email them to order things They're great to work with. I use them for everything.
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Jun 7, 2019 20:18
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I don't believe that's entirely true. According to GW they're formulated to work with the contrast paint, and also apparently are resilient to a lot of issues with things like humidity. Of course. They're a company advertising their own product, to make money. Bottom line is Contrast paint isn't out yet so nobody knows; but I'd be willing to bet that most primers will work just as good as an undercoat.
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Jun 7, 2019 21:44
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I decided to paint up one of those Wizkids unpainted D&D miniatures yesterday, and I really don't care for them at all. It's nice that there's less detail to make it quicker to paint, but the details they do have aren't defined very well. I was working on a Mindflayer, and I couldn't even tell where his sleeve stopped and the hand started. Am I the only one that has this problem with those minis? I'm sure part of is I'm just not a very good painter, but I didn't have the same problem with my Legion stuff.
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Jun 7, 2019 21:45
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Funzo posted:I decided to paint up one of those Wizkids unpainted D&D miniatures yesterday, and I really don't care for them at all. It's nice that there's less detail to make it quicker to paint, but the details they do have aren't defined very well. I was working on a Mindflayer, and I couldn't even tell where his sleeve stopped and the hand started. Am I the only one that has this problem with those minis? I'm sure part of is I'm just not a very good painter, but I didn't have the same problem with my Legion stuff. Their big creatures are pretty solid, especially for the price, and quite a few of them are pretty much the only option for certain monsters if you want them to be plastic, cheap, and modern-looking, but yeah their human-sized stuff is trash. Their primer is really thick and the small sculpts come out with very soft detail - Bones stuff is cheaper and better-looking, imo.
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Jun 7, 2019 21:52
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I dont remember who asked about the H&S infinity but here's my review so far: I loving love it. Apart from being able to put a tiny needle in it and do very fine work, the trigger mechanism is a god send. It doesn't hurt my hand nearly as much as long sessions with the NEOs did. It has two different controls that let you set how far back the trigger can go, and the physical design is a lot more comfortable to hold and pull on. The part you place your finger on is large and curved so it doesn't dig in. I've been having some problems with my paints going through it but that's down to the paints themselves having been left for a couple of years on their sides. There's a tiny bit of goopage going on there. I have had to clean it out a few times already as a result. That does let me say that pulling it apart, cleaning it, and putting it back together is still super quick and easy as on the simpler models. At the time I bought it, it was 3-4x more expensive than a NEO, which was the only other one I'd used. It's definitely better and Im happy I have it, but if you've got a mid range model I dont know if the price is worth the smaller step up? I also do crazy stuff with my airbrush so I really make use of the full range of settings and limiters it has. Replacement parts aren't expensive either, only a tiny bit more than they were for the NEO.
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Jun 7, 2019 22:18
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Marzipan Pig posted:I dont remember who asked about the H&S infinity but here's my review so far: I own and use an H&S infinity most days. Everything you said is bang on. The fit and finish makes you realise that all airbrushes are not the same. Not even close. As always, the best partner for an infinity is Vallejo flow improver.
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Jun 7, 2019 22:22
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