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Furism posted:What would you guys say these two colors are for the hull? I'm trying to pick the right Vallejo references to make this exact helicopter. Khaki and khaki obviously.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 19:10 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 06:22 |
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Light Matt Grey Slightly Darker Matt Grey
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 19:12 |
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Guys it's a French helo. Gris clair Gris moyen Try looking up FS35237 and FS36320. You might not get an exact match because the French have their own color naming system.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 19:38 |
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The hardest part of scale modelling is restraining yourself from buying every shade. But then if you do have them all, you can't buy any more right?
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 19:51 |
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Furism posted:What would you guys say these two colors are for the hull? I'm trying to pick the right Vallejo references to make this exact helicopter. lol just lol if you don't want to aquatint yourself with 10,000 variations of the color grey
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 20:31 |
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I've had a serious lack of mojo lately so I decided to put down the 1/32 B-17E for a while and do some other stuff. I've had this sitting on the shelf since forever, but finally decided to give it a go and try my hand at a tank interior. Turns out this is pretty much an upscaled version of the T-34/76 kit which was the first kit I did getting back into the hobby. At the time, I built the interior, but didn't dare paint it. On this go-around, I'm obviously going all-in. This is a great little kit and the interior - at least the fighting compartment - fits beautifully. I've got the engine components built and primed, but they still need painting and weathering. Pretty happy with the results so far!
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 20:32 |
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Is that the Trumpeter kit? I wanted to get my hands on a 1:16 T-34 for some time now, but they seem quite rare.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 21:24 |
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Symetrique posted:Guys it's a French helo. Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 22:17 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 22:23 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:Is that the Trumpeter kit? I wanted to get my hands on a 1:16 T-34 for some time now, but they seem quite rare. Nope, the 1/35 AFV Club kit. My guess is that this kit is a downscaled version of the kit you're referring to. https://www.scalemates.com/kits/afv-club-af35145-t-34-85--225685
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 22:26 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour.
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# ? Jun 7, 2019 23:53 |
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Today I learned that Vallejo Blue Grey Pale and Pale Grey Blue are two substantially different colors. Serious post: French Mirage Blue and Sky Grey. Actual post: Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 00:26 |
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Not a huge fan of these AK Real Colors so far. They cover fine, but if you try to thin them down to the same thinness as you can with other lacquers, they tend to separate. Gonna find out if the other jars also act up when I paint the upper surfaces.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 04:26 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 05:23 |
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Furism posted:What would you guys say these two colors are for the hull? I'm trying to pick the right Vallejo references to make this exact helicopter. Ocean Gray and Military Gray . Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour. gently caress
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 05:24 |
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Furism posted:What would you guys say these two colors are for the hull? I'm trying to pick the right Vallejo references to make this exact helicopter. Others have said French Mirage Blue and Pale Blue Grey, but i think for scale fading you may want to go with Dark Ghost Grey and Light Ghost Grey, since French Mirage Blue (at least Vallejo) goes on very dark. It depends how large your scale is. I'd definitely go for the washed out colors of the latter pair if it's as small as 1/72.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 05:29 |
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Many funny people in this thread! Bande de petits trous du cul.Symetrique posted:Guys it's a French helo. Ok that's pretty good Symetrique posted:Try looking up FS35237 and FS36320. You might not get an exact match because the French have their own color naming system. My home-made equivalency chart tells me that FS35237 is actually Blue Grey Pale. But I don't have an equivalency for FS36320 yet, I'll look that up. Thanks! Triggerhappypilot posted:Others have said French Mirage Blue and Pale Blue Grey, but i think for scale fading you may want to go with Dark Ghost Grey and Light Ghost Grey, since French Mirage Blue (at least Vallejo) goes on very dark. It depends how large your scale is. I'd definitely go for the washed out colors of the latter pair if it's as small as 1/72. Yes it's 1/72. I'll give it a try on some sprue first but thank you very much for narrowing this down.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 07:52 |
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That website is fantastic. I've been looking for something where you can plug a hex code in and it will list an approximate colour match to a brand.
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# ? Jun 8, 2019 16:01 |
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Pretty sure a French helo is Bonjour. I think the darker helo is Bonsoir.
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# ? Jun 9, 2019 13:42 |
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Sultan Tarquin posted:The hardest part of scale modelling is restraining yourself from buying every shade. But then if you do have them all, you can't buy any more right? No see you buy every shade and then because you use them so little they dry out and then you have to replace them! I really, really need to stop buying shades of blue.
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# ? Jun 9, 2019 22:33 |
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Marzipan Pig posted:No see you buy every shade and then because you use them so little they dry out and then you have to replace them! I just fall into the trap of feeling like i have to buy the paint they list in the instructions when I buy a new kit. Example from the MAZ-537 kit I posted a bit back. I wanted to do the afghan army paint job and this is the paint they list for the main colour. https://www.scalemates.com/colors/ammo-by-mig-jimenez--682/amig-0057-yellow-grey-acrylic-matt--6126. I think to myself that's almost like the dark yellow I have. But it's closer to Tamiya Deck Tan. Then I umm and aah about if I should get a bottle of it. But then I could just try and take my dark yellow and try to make a mix to get a closer match, but I have no real experience mixing colourrs and wouldn't know what to mix into it to make it a paler sand colour. There's just so many drat shades
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# ? Jun 9, 2019 22:59 |
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Tools are just as bad. Hasegawa just made nippers for photo etch. They look cool and useful, but not $60 useful.
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# ? Jun 9, 2019 23:57 |
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And they're just regular chinesium jewelers tools but with a brand name stamped onto them.
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# ? Jun 9, 2019 23:58 |
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I saw $99 Gundam branded clippers. Surely there can be no reason at all for them to cost that much.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:00 |
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I mean, I wouldn't pay $99, but I did buy some pricier Meng sprue nippers, and they are infinitely better than the Xurons I was using.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:28 |
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It’s like any of the games workshop tools. They have a captive audience in the store and can upsell them on crap they don’t need. They sell overpriced glues that don’t work as well as the stuff you can get from the hardware shop or other hobby places.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:28 |
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Back when I used to work for GW if the manager wasn't on the floor we'd refuse to sell their superglue and send people up to the supermarket to buy Loctite instead. Cheaper, better, doesn't gum up the bottle so much.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:32 |
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More progress on the 1/35 AFV Club T-34/85. Today I finished the engine and transmission. This is almost entirely out-of-the-box. I only added spark plug wires and some fuel lines. Very happy with the results so far.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:48 |
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Sultan Tarquin posted:And they're just regular chinesium jewelers tools but with a brand name stamped onto them. http://www.hasegawa-model.co.jp/product/tt42/ I'm sure they're actually of decent quality, but you'd have to be cutting a lot of photo etch to make something this niche worth it. Bloody Hedgehog posted:I mean, I wouldn't pay $99, but I did buy some pricier Meng sprue nippers, and they are infinitely better than the Xurons I was using. Seems like the important thing is to get quality forged flush cutters. I went from Xurons to Tamiya sharp side cutters and it was a pretty huge difference, but I doubt going from Tamiya to Godhands would be as big of a jump. Dr. Garbanzo posted:Its like any of the games workshop tools. They have a captive audience in the store and can upsell them on crap they dont need. They sell overpriced glues that dont work as well as the stuff you can get from the hardware shop or other hobby places. I did see one slapfight on r/modelmakers because someone posted an overpriced GW tool for removing seam lines, and a bunch of people jumped on him for not just using the back of a hobby knife.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 00:49 |
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Symetrique posted:
Same. I got some sharp pointed side cutters last month cause it was my birthday and man they cut so nicely. Now I usually use the xurons to cut the gate back from the part a little ways then go in with the Tamiya to make sure I get the best angle and there's barely any mark at all.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 01:11 |
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Are photoetch bending pliers worth dropping money on? I'm in the middle of a model that has a *lot* of bending involved, and like, lengthwise. Making quite a bit of lengths of angle iron, for example. Absolute pain in the rear end with my current strategy, which is a pair of tweezers with globs of super glue all over them.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 01:15 |
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Slugworth posted:Are photoetch bending pliers worth dropping money on? I'm in the middle of a model that has a *lot* of bending involved, and like, lengthwise. Making quite a bit of lengths of angle iron, for example. Absolute pain in the rear end with my current strategy, which is a pair of tweezers with globs of super glue all over them. It's totally worth having some un-toothed jeweler type pliers, imo. I have these. The wide surface makes it easier to bend poo poo. There are more expensive versions with nylon work surfaces to avoid scratching the stuff you're bending (including purpose-made modeling tools and otherwise), but in my experience that isn't necessary. I haven't used any of the super cheap versions.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 01:30 |
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Symetrique posted:Seems like the important thing is to get quality forged flush cutters. I went from Xurons to Tamiya sharp side cutters and it was a pretty huge difference, but I doubt going from Tamiya to Godhands would be as big of a jump. I’ve been using these for several years and have been pleased with them.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 01:36 |
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Slugworth posted:Are photoetch bending pliers worth dropping money on? I'm in the middle of a model that has a *lot* of bending involved, and like, lengthwise. Making quite a bit of lengths of angle iron, for example. Absolute pain in the rear end with my current strategy, which is a pair of tweezers with globs of super glue all over them. The Tamiya ones blow. There's so much side to side slop in the hinge that the edges of the jaws will be offset from each when brought together, giving an uneven bending surface. Much better just to get a cheap pair of toothless smooth-jawed pliers from the hardware store, or even from a beading supply place.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 02:27 |
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Slugworth posted:Are photoetch bending pliers worth dropping money on? I'm in the middle of a model that has a *lot* of bending involved, and like, lengthwise. Making quite a bit of lengths of angle iron, for example. Absolute pain in the rear end with my current strategy, which is a pair of tweezers with globs of super glue all over them. What about something like this sketchy chinese tool? https://www.aliexpress.com/store/pr....eccc3f3aOQo0EG Edit: Oh god. A weapon to surpass metal gear: Symetrique fucked around with this message at 07:24 on Jun 10, 2019 |
# ? Jun 10, 2019 07:19 |
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Managed to get a couple of models finished over the last couple of days both of which where nearly finished when I set them aside. The first is a BMW M6 GT3 put out by Platz NuNu. It was a super frustrating kit to put together particularly when it came to fitting the bumpers to the body and the rear wing support at the back was poorly planned. Glad it's finished up and on the shelf. The second was an oldish tamiya kit that was annoying for the decals but the rest of it more or less fell together as expected. I'm not super happy about the clear I put over the decals but given I don't have an airbrush and don't want to use TS13 it'll have to do.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 08:37 |
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Nice job getting those looking so good without an airbrush! Very impressive. Those decals too... that’s the main reason I stay away from track cars and mostly do street stuff.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 08:53 |
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Symetrique posted:] I can't figure out what this is for. Why would you want to spray paint at the tip of a marker?
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 13:30 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:I can't figure out what this is for. Why would you want to spray paint at the tip of a marker? I think it’s so you can somehow airbrush with the marker by I guess ablating ink off the tip
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 13:36 |
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# ? Jun 5, 2024 06:22 |
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Managed to get a couple of models finished over the last couple of days both of which where nearly finished when I set them aside. Bless you for having the patience to do that without an airbrush. It looks pretty sharp, too! Ensign Expendable posted:I can't figure out what this is for. Why would you want to spray paint at the tip of a marker? It's 100% meant to blow paint off the marker tip, rather than onto it. Ostensibly it's so you can get perfect color-matching with the Gundam-branded markers, but in reality, it's because people are suckers.
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# ? Jun 10, 2019 14:14 |