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Mirconium posted:This is the opposite of the usual convention, is it not? Could very well be
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Jun 5, 2019 01:32
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tzam posted:So I just got some Michelin Road 5s on my Zx6r, and they seem great in the wet, if a bit slow handling compared to my old Dunlop Q3s. Only issue now is that I can hear a whine from the tyres when riding straight ahead. Sounds like the whine from an off road car tyre on the freeway, and quietens down whilst leaning over. The noise is only present while riding between around 30-65kph. Is this something I should be going back to the shop for or is this normal? I've never actually heard tyre noise on a bike before! I've had two sets of these and never noticed any difference in noise.
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Jun 5, 2019 01:59
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tzam posted:So I just got some Michelin Road 5s on my Zx6r, and they seem great in the wet, if a bit slow handling compared to my old Dunlop Q3s. Only issue now is that I can hear a whine from the tyres when riding straight ahead. Sounds like the whine from an off road car tyre on the freeway, and quietens down whilst leaning over. The noise is only present while riding between around 30-65kph. Is this something I should be going back to the shop for or is this normal? I've never actually heard tyre noise on a bike before! I would think it's just the cross bars in the centre of the front tyre tread pattern interacting with the road.
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Jun 5, 2019 12:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Elite 150’s don’t have any big gotchas. Other than making sure the pop up headlight works, it’s standard bike stuff make sure it runs well, rides well, doesn’t make weird noises, leak, smoke, etc It has a couple of scuffs, paint more faded than I thought but runs and drives like a champ.   I was hoping to haggle the price down, but that's still not awful for canuckbucks and instead got free delivery (I had no way of getting it back, and it was 1.5 hours away) Oh MAN I'm excited, haha. Thanks for the help!
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Jun 5, 2019 17:24
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My experiences with various eras of motorcycle and automobile electrical systems suggest to me that there are three general eras you have to deal with: First there is the pre-electronics era, where everything in the system is purely electrical or mechanical. A magneto ignition going straight to the spark plugs; if there's a lamp it might be directly connected to a generator of some kind, or it might go to a battery first; if there's a regulator it will be the vibrating mechanical type; no rectifiers because all the bulbs are incandescent anyway. Maybe you have a coil ignition but it's still isolated from stuff like lamps and gauges. The parts you deal with here may be arcane and unusual, but there's nothing particularly weird once you look at it, and there aren't that many parts anyway. Weird but not complicated. Then there is the digital electronics era, where we are now. Many or most systems are controlled by computers. These systems are complicated, but logical; the designers had to respect things like polarity and voltage levels, so if it says 12 volts it's 12 volts, and if it's ground it's ground no matter where you measure it. If there are analog components or signals they're quickly rectified and quantized and turned into something stable and predictable. Replace a computer here, swap a sensor there, if you need to patch into the system there's clear power and ground and data and it's all stable. Complicated, but not weird. And in between those two you have the analog electronics era, where everything becomes  . Some components are polarized, some aren't, some don't care about the voltage level, some do, it's nominally all running at 12 volts but hey it all runs on anything from 5 to 15 so who gives a poo poo. You'll have a mix of every possible technology in the same vehicle. A ground level in one place isn't necessarily ground somewhere else. Sometimes the designers do stupid poo poo like ground one component through another one that isn't expected to turn on at that voltage level, or install a component backwards so that it operates when the circuit is reverse-biased and shunts power somewhere else and turns off other components by drawing power away. Weird, complicated, and sometimes intentionally counterintuitive. Your KZ440 is square in the middle of that era. Good luck.
Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:28 on Jun 5, 2019 |
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Jun 5, 2019 19:20
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Sagebrush posted:My experiences with various eras of motorcycle and automobile electrical systems suggest to me that there are three general eras you have to deal with: You're not joking. This thing is engine-swapped, 78 harness, 76 engine. After 4 years of manufacturing the engine with an excited-coil alternator, they switched back to a magneto. The charging system went from 3-phase AC with an excited field that had to be regulated, to a 1 phase AC at triple the frequency. Rectifiers are totally incompatible. That charging system lasted 2 years supposedly. poo poo is nuts.
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Jun 6, 2019 09:09
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Verman posted:Coke/soda and aluminum foil. It will remove the rust and not scratch the steel but you will still have pitting/scarring from the corrosion if its deep enough. I was thinking about this - it's how I did the wheels on the old postie I fixed up. May give it a go over the long weekend coming up. quote:If you want perfectly clean forks, the effort and cost to getting them looking new again (removing the rust and refinishing the metal), you could probably just find new stanchions. mewse posted:I had rust/pitting on my fork tubes and #0000 steel wool cleaned away the surface rust, leaving the pitting for me to worry about. I eventually replaced the worse tube with a NOS part from ebay. Those forks you have look like they've got minimal pitting in the seal travel area.. but.. still not great. Yeah... the fact it's all higher up makes me not too worried, but it's still not great. The downside is this thing was already a PITA to locate locally, so I am probably going to have to turn to internet for shipping. I would be really interested in just swapping the front end over if there was a bolt-on option that offered a disc brake. I know Honda likes reusing parts across models, but I can't find any info on the CR125's relationship (or lackthereof) with the XL, which this CT effectively is. I know the CR switched to a front disc in the mid-80s, which is a similar vintage to this bike. I have a feeling they may be too different though - two stroke motorcross vs what's effectively a farm bike with a license plate. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Jun 6, 2019 |
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Jun 6, 2019 10:22
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It's pretty easy to fix tubes like that, all you need are two simple tools, a spray-weld rig and a lathe.
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Jun 6, 2019 19:39
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Well I guess I got the bike out before the salt had all washed away because everything suddenly has rust spots on it. I'm going to have to pull the fairings to try to clean up the exhaust/everything else. How safe is CorrosionX as far as inhalation/handling? I love the stuff but it's kinda scary and I can't find any real answers.
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Jun 6, 2019 20:39
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puberty worked me over fucked around with this message at 07:15 on Jan 4, 2020 |
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Jun 7, 2019 02:39
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Mirconium posted:The red yellow that leaves the signal side of the relay is grounded. Electrons don't care what color the insulation is, and neither should you. Imagine every wire is exactly the same color with a little label at each end, and don't stress about it.
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Jun 10, 2019 17:00
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Who's the goon who rewired their bike aviation standard with all white wires with little labels on?
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Jun 10, 2019 17:16
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That sounds like something Sagey would do.
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Jun 10, 2019 17:59
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Renaissance Robot posted:Who's the goon who rewired their bike aviation standard with all white wires with little labels on? That was me.
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Jun 10, 2019 19:45
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:That was me. How is it done, or do you have a link to the earlier posts?
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Jun 10, 2019 20:31
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mewse posted:How is it done, or do you have a link to the earlier posts? 1) Buy wire. M22759/16-20 for pretty much everything. 20AWG. If you need bigger, like for a starter, then (ex) 8awg is M22759/16-8. 2) Buy crimp terminals. Mil-T-7928 or equivalent. Make sure you've got a crimper that is suitable for the terminals. For any connectors on the bike, make sure you've got good crimpers for those. 3) Buy some real wire strippers. I like the Ideal Stripmaster series. Yeah, $50, but absolutely worth it. If you try to buy the jaws for M22759 wire, they'e $170 or something; don't worry, the standard jaws work OK. You're not actually trying to work to a NASA spec here. 4) Wire label printer. A bit of overkill, really. A set of wire markers will probably be OK. The little books that Ideal makes should be fine. I have a Dymo Rhino printer that prints on heat shrink tube. Works a treat, and 5m of 1/4" tube goes a long way if you're not verbose. Then you just make a wiring diagram with each wire in the bike named. You then pull each wire individually from its start point to its end point, print a label for each end, cut it, shrink the label down, and move on to the next wire. Once everything is pulled in, use tie wraps to tie the harness together in a bundle, then remove from the bike. Lace up with waxed lacing cord (MIL-T-43435) with a knot (clove hitch secured by double-looped overhand knot) every 12" and at every branch. Reinstall on the bike. Terminate the ends with the appropriate terminals or connector ends, as appropriate. Plug in everything. Bam. Done.
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Jun 11, 2019 03:19
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Thanks for writing that up, it seems like a really tidy way to do it. I haven't attacked a motorcycle harness but I've wired 3D printers and it quickly turns into a rat's nest
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Jun 11, 2019 14:54
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Cable tying is an artform and when done properly looks amazing. When done properly 
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Jun 11, 2019 15:36
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Cable tying is an artform and when done properly looks amazing. For everything else, there's zipties.
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Jun 11, 2019 18:09
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Cable tying is an artform and when done properly looks amazing. I have a brand new spool of waxed cotton line in a box, and know the AT&T Way. I'm tempted to turn the ninja into a hand-laced work of fart.
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Jun 12, 2019 05:26
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Question unrelated to anything KZ: I have a CBR300R personally. It makes a weird rattle when it's above 7k rpm, but only in high gears. No rattle at idle, no rattle if you rev the engine in neutral, no rattle if you tach it to 9k in 3rd, but on the highway in 6th gear there is a rattle. I'm sort of worried that the engine is knocking, although it might just be some piece of body work I haven't found that's gotten loose or something. Is there a way to easily/cheaply check for engine knock? One that's easier than tearing off the entire fairing and looking for a bit that rattles? Secondary question: if an engine develops a knock, it should be more prominent at when you lug it, right? Mine doesn't do anything when it lugs. Is this just a single being a single and vibrating like a bastard? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 17:50 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 17:05
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Mirconium posted:Rattles I don't have any experience with CBR300's, but more information would help anyone that is familiar with those engines. Where do you think you are hearing this rattle emanating from? A general direction should give more clues. Front or back? Left side or right side? When you say "rattle" can you give an example of a sound it resembles? Is it more of a buzzing? Ticking? Pinging? Knocking? How loud is it? Is it faint or can you audibly hear it at high way speeds over wind and exhaust noise? How many miles are on the bike? Does the bike do it when the engine is cold? Does it take a while of riding to begin? Does it get more pronounced the longer you ride / hotter the bike gets? Does the rattle change in frequency of the rpms of the engine? Can you feel any vibrations in or around the bike that would match the sound while the rattle is persisting? From what you've stated, I'd lean towards it not being a knock. You'll normally hear that during idle or revving in neutral. It only making the noise when in gear would hint that its a transmission, clutch assembly, or final drive issue. Can you take it to a trusted shop / mechanic to have them ride it and listen? They may be able to pinpoint the issue immediately. EDIT: If it's covered under warranty, follow the warranty guidelines and don't waste time so you can get the issue on record. tjones fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Jun 12, 2019 |
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Jun 12, 2019 19:59
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To add to your second question, it depends on what the knocking is. Depending on the bike, lugging the engine will definitely make it "knock". Using higher gears under heavy load at low rpms can be brutal on your bottom end. All engines will have a happy range that they perform best at, and it's ideal to keep them within that range. Drop a gear if you feel the engine lugging.
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Jun 12, 2019 20:15
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I'm having an annoying issue with my 07 sv650 not starting right. For example, the bike started this morning and I rode it for an hour, went to restart it and got nothing. Everything seems fine but when you hit the starter the lights just headlight dims and that's it. I'm still able to bump start it though. When this happened the first few times I figured it was the battery since it was measuring on the low end of what's good. Got a new battery and now it's still happening. New battery voltage seems fine too
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Jun 15, 2019 19:13
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hit the bricks pal! posted:I'm having an annoying issue with my 07 sv650 not starting right. For example, the bike started this morning and I rode it for an hour, went to restart it and got nothing. Everything seems fine but when you hit the starter the lights just headlight dims and that's it. I'm still able to bump start it though. When this happened the first few times I figured it was the battery since it was measuring on the low end of what's good. Got a new battery and now it's still happening. New battery voltage seems fine too Can you hear the starter motor trying to engage and/or the relay clicking? Check all the connections in the starter circuit for tightness and corrosion, including your battery clamps and the starter button itself. It's *probably* an intermittent fault in either the starter motor or the relay but always check the simplest/cheapest things first.
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Jun 15, 2019 19:33
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Also your earth connections, if this thread has taught me anything.
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Jun 15, 2019 20:51
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Is it ok to use synthetic automotive oil in a motorcycle?
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Jun 15, 2019 23:07
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SimonCat posted:Is it ok to use synthetic automotive oil in a motorcycle? Depends. Does the motorcycle have a wet clutch? If so, the oil for the clutch will need to carry a JASO certification. Check your owners manual. Anything with friction modifiers will cause clutch plates to slip.
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Jun 16, 2019 00:17
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Synth vs semi-synth makes no practical difference except on usually costs more. All that matters is: - no friction modifiers if you're running a wet clutch - get the weight specified in your manual for the atmospheric temperature range in your area (10W40 is a common weight at my latitude, where temperatures stay in the -10'C to +30'C range; check your manual) - get the JASO standard specified in your manual (MA or MA2; some bikes don't care) - get the API standard specified in your manual (a letter combo SA through SN, where later letters represent more recently developed standards. Anything older than SF is ancient poo poo you probably shouldn't use. If your bike was made this century you're probably safe with SM) tl;dr: yes synthetic oil is fine, so long as all the other specs of the oil are appropriate for your engine. Read you manual.
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Jun 16, 2019 08:42
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I don't know how much this applies to new bikes, but on old bikes you should not use synthetic oil. The mineral oil has additives designed to make the oil seals swell, and the engine is designed to use seals which regularly gets this additive. I put synthetic in my 1986 Suzuki and got leaks from the shifter shaft seal, head cover seals etc. Some of them sealed up once I changed, but the shifter shaft one didn't, maybe because some gunk got in there with the flow and fouled a sealing surface. Pain in the rear end to replace. That was with car oil, I don't know for sure if no synthetics have these additives, if it's no longer common to have those seals, if it was all a big coincidence etc etc. So read your manual. If it says mineral oil, use that, and don't worry about getting the cheapest motorcycle-specific stuff you can find. Oils are really good, but they can cause a lot of mechanical hypochondria when you start thinking too much about it.
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Jun 16, 2019 09:38
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Pocket dialed something awful. Sorry. Since I’m here I might as well try. I just bought my son an old dirt bike. A 1989 cr80. Someone took it down to the frame and put a terrible rattle can job on the frame and motor and really everything then put it back together with mostly the wrong bolts. It runs well enough although doesn’t idle well and stalls easily but will fire back up pretty easy. I haven’t had a two stroke in probably 25 years. This is my question. Reving up the motor sound great but when the motor decels with no throttle applied it sounds rattely. It’s not really loud but it sounds awful to me. Is that normal because there isn’t fuel and oil being let into the cylinder? kenny powerzzz fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Jun 17, 2019 |
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Jun 17, 2019 04:53
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I’m always looking into getting a bike as a new rider. I sold my fun car to make room for a practical car with actual cargo space and now I miss having something fun to drive on nice days. This seems like a good fit for where I live and hell I just love driving fun stuff. Big question: How dumb would I be if I postponed the basic safety course and just self studied with my permit? I’m familiar with how to ride a bike mechanically but don’t have any road experience. Problem is the MSF course is booked out months in advance in my area because the big CC stopped offering it at some point. I don’t want to be an ignorant rider, I want to take the class, I’m 100% going to take the class, but is there any effective E-Learning I can do on safety so I can start enjoying it while it’s still summer?
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Jun 17, 2019 16:37
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Rolo posted:How dumb would I be if I postponed the basic safety course and just self studied with my permit? I’m familiar with how to ride a bike mechanically but don’t have any road experience. Problem is the MSF course is booked out months in advance in my area because the big CC stopped offering it at some point. Moderately dumb. No there is no e-learning that will substitute for proper road training. Can you go to a course in the next town over? It's just a weekend. Get an AirBNB and make a trip out of it. 12 hours isn't a lot of training time, so the real value of the MSF is having a professional show you the right way to do things from day 0 and immediately correct any bad moves before you start to reinforce them into habits. If you have a skilled, conscientious rider friend who remembers their MSF and is willing to spend a weekend teaching you, that may be a decent substitute.
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Jun 17, 2019 17:25
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That’s a good idea. I’ll find somewhere in the mountains or something and rent a place for a three day weekend.
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Jun 17, 2019 17:29
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David Hough’s Proficient Motorcycling would be good to read. He goes way more into how to navigate and approach different scenarios than what they covered in my MSF class, and I feel more confident for having read it. That said, without having done the slow speed maneuvering drills in the MSF class I feel fairly certain I would’ve dropped my bike the first time I got on it. I had no experience on motorcycles before the class, and assumed (wrongly) that road biking experience would help the transition. Even the TW200 I had as my class bike felt humongous and heavy the first time I got on it.
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Jun 17, 2019 17:35
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There is just too much risk to not take every precaution you can when getting into motorcycles. You can get really hurt, with no warning. Making a weekend of taking the class in another town is an excellent idea.
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Jun 17, 2019 22:51
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kenny powerzzz posted:Pocket dialed something awful. Sorry. 30 year old 2t that makes a racket? Sounds pretty normal to me.
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Jun 18, 2019 02:57
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builds character posted:30 year old 2t that makes a racket? Sounds pretty normal to me. Thanks. I was thinking about it today. I guess it comes down to the old adage “she’ll blow or she’ll go”. Either way we worked on it today fastening down some stuff by finding appropriate bolts and cleaned it up some. New clutch tomorrow and we’ll take it as it goes. It actually made me remember how much fun a 2t is. I’m probably gonna be on the hunt for an old 250 or 500 soon.
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Jun 18, 2019 03:37
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kenny powerzzz posted:Thanks. I was thinking about it today. I guess it comes down to the old adage “she’ll blow or she’ll go”. Either way we worked on it today fastening down some stuff by finding appropriate bolts and cleaned it up some. New clutch tomorrow and we’ll take it as it goes. It actually made me remember how much fun a 2t is. I’m probably gonna be on the hunt for an old 250 or 500 soon. My unsolicited advice for riding with a kid is that it is so much better with some kind of intercom. There are a bunch of cheapish ones you can get used.
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Jun 18, 2019 04:29
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builds character posted:My unsolicited advice for riding with a kid is that it is so much better with some kind of intercom. There are a bunch of cheapish ones you can get used. He’s not new, just stepping up from a 50 to an 80. That being said an intercom has been on my shortlist for a while anyway. Riding with my son has been a blast and it’s awesome to see him progress and take on stuff with confidence that he used to approach timidly. He isn’t enough of a rider yet to get out of control or try anything risky. It’s coming, but he isn’t there yet. An intercom would still be nice if only to talk about where we’re going next and how to approach it. Stuff like that.
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Jun 18, 2019 06:57
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