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Salynne
Oct 25, 2007

Gunder posted:

Someone in either this thread or the 40k thread said that the potted versions had a binding agent in them, making them a brush-on primer. They talked about them having the same "bite" as primer.

Nope I don't think so. It looks smells and feels like my layer or base paints that were on my desk. I'm not a chemist or anything but I would expect it to either have some solvent smell for bite or some polyeurothane smell-and-feel like the airbrush primers if it was a primer.

It's just paint. The marketing saying it's required is so someone completely and utterly new to the hobby doesn't gently caress it up by trying to use the contrast paint over black or something.

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Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

richyp posted:


I did some more messing around between coats to see if there's an easy mode ork skin



That's Warp Lightning Green, Skeleton Horde and Iyanden all painted over each other. A dot of Ushabti on the chin and eye lids for effect. Zero effort.

That would look good on a horde. Any particular reason you went with Warp Lightning instead of Ork Flesh? And is that each layer all over in that order, or selective applications?

I'm thinking I might try the same with Ork Flesh, and then another with Creed Camo for a softer green in the shadow.

Punkinhead
Apr 2, 2015

Lovely Joe Stalin posted:

Any particular reason you went with Warp Lightning instead of Ork Flesh?

I'm not the guy you're quoting but I think it's good to break out of GWs "paint-by-numbers" systems so we get more unique looking armies on the field. We're not playing historicals here.

Jst0rm
Sep 16, 2012
Grimey Drawer

long-rear end nips Diane posted:

Wappel is fantastic, I subscribe to his patreon and I've been ripping him off wholesale for my song of ice and fire miniatures. Most of his videos are done with the exact same limited palette of reaper's acrylics, but he also uses oils on minis from time to time.

This is a more normal video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1LvJv3dyjEw

his brush control is insane. I like how he pulls out his pack of $6 for 20 brushes and im like welp.

Lovely Joe Stalin
Jun 12, 2007

Our Lovely Wang

PinheadSlim posted:

I'm not the guy you're quoting but I think it's good to break out of GWs "paint-by-numbers" systems so we get more unique looking armies on the field. We're not playing historicals here.

Nothing to do with painting by numbers. They both (perhaps Creed moreso) seem better suited to a flesh tone, to me, than Warp Lightning, which leaves a jade shadow.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Cat Face Joe posted:

Reporting in to say white Stynylrez is not a good surface for the contrast paints.
Ah, drat. that's a bummer. Has anyone seen any reports over Krylon sprays?

Salynne
Oct 25, 2007

Cat Face Joe posted:

Reporting in to say white Stynylrez is not a good surface for the contrast paints.

I'm curious what this ended up looking like and why you think that, since there are no photos here.

Getting white stynylrez to have smooth coverage on your model is a bit tricky (because white is finnicky) but if you do it should work fine.

Failson
Sep 2, 2018
Fun Shoe

richyp posted:

The Yellow, Red, green and Bone are contrast.
The yellow was touched up with flash gitz to hide any pooling. Before the highlights he looked like this:


Then the detail.


About 20 mins to get the base and shading done is a massive time saver, as that's always the most boring bit for me.

I did some more messing around between coats to see if there's an easy mode ork skin



That's Warp Lightning Green, Skeleton Horde and Iyanden all painted over each other. A dot of Ushabti on the chin and eye lids for effect. Zero effort.

Bit of cleanup around the eyes and teeth and I'd say it looks fantastic.

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

richyp posted:

The Yellow, Red, green and Bone are contrast.
The yellow was touched up with flash gitz to hide any pooling. Before the highlights he looked like this:


Then the detail.


About 20 mins to get the base and shading done is a massive time saver, as that's always the most boring bit for me.

I did some more messing around between coats to see if there's an easy mode ork skin



That's Warp Lightning Green, Skeleton Horde and Iyanden all painted over each other. A dot of Ushabti on the chin and eye lids for effect. Zero effort.

gently caress that Ork is amazing. Sorry just to clarify, Warp then Skeleton, then Iyanden? Letting them dry in between? Unthinned?

richyp
Dec 2, 2004

Grumpy old man

Harkano posted:

gently caress that Ork is amazing. Sorry just to clarify, Warp then Skeleton, then Iyanden? Letting them dry in between? Unthinned?

That order, thinned 50/50 with Contrast (tm) (r) (arggghh) medium. Unthinned Warp is very Jadey especially over the beige of the Wraithbone undercoat.


1) Warp Lightning 1:1 Contrast medium


2) Skeleton Horde 1:1 Contrast medium over all of that


3) Iyanden Yellow 1:1 Contrast medium over all of the above

The final image is the above with the teeth painted and a bit of thinned purple over the gum and a dot of khaki on the most raised bits


It's not as tidy as layering it like my other orks


But it takes minutes, and for grunts, gently caress effort.

Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe

richyp posted:

That order, thinned 50/50 with Contrast (tm) (r) (arggghh) medium. Unthinned Warp is very Jadey especially over the beige of the Wraithbone undercoat.


1) Warp Lightning 1:1 Contrast medium


2) Skeleton Horde 1:1 Contrast medium over all of that


3) Iyanden Yellow 1:1 Contrast medium over all of the above

The final image is the above with the teeth painted and a bit of thinned purple over the gum and a dot of khaki on the most raised bits


It's not as tidy as layering it like my other orks


But it takes minutes, and for grunts, gently caress effort.

That ork is beautiful and I really appreciate the reverse dark-light-lighter layering to push the yellow on the highlights.

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



General Olloth posted:

I'm curious what this ended up looking like and why you think that, since there are no photos here.

Getting white stynylrez to have smooth coverage on your model is a bit tricky (because white is finnicky) but if you do it should work fine.

your right i made it all up

The Jumpoff
May 4, 2011
Your dad's in the Russian Mafia, that's the jumpoff!

berzerkmonkey posted:

Ah, drat. that's a bummer. Has anyone seen any reports over Krylon sprays?

Krylon Gray Primer works well with Contrast from my experience

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

richyp posted:

That order, thinned 50/50 with Contrast (tm) (r) (arggghh) medium. Unthinned Warp is very Jadey especially over the beige of the Wraithbone undercoat.


1) Warp Lightning 1:1 Contrast medium


2) Skeleton Horde 1:1 Contrast medium over all of that


3) Iyanden Yellow 1:1 Contrast medium over all of the above

The final image is the above with the teeth painted and a bit of thinned purple over the gum and a dot of khaki on the most raised bits


It's not as tidy as layering it like my other orks


But it takes minutes, and for grunts, gently caress effort.

Yeah I'm all in this scheme for my 120 boyz and Grots. Gutted I didn't grab the Medium though. Need to see if I can resolve it tomorrow :)

I don't like just naked Ork Flesh over White or Grey yet.

I said come in!
Jun 22, 2004

I saw a post earlier about someone being concerned about their contrast paint order from GWS. Mine didn't include a tracking number so I had to reach out to support and I got a response within an hour, and my paints will come this Saturday. I'm hoping earlier than that though but I have other things to paint in the meantime.

That Gobbo
Mar 27, 2010
I just tried some Contrast over my white stynylrez primed lizardmen and it seemed to work well enough for me.

MrFlibble
Nov 28, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Fallen Rib
My friend painting Grim Ironjaw in 1 hour better than I would in 6-8. All contrast I believe.


R0ckfish
Nov 18, 2013
So I managed to be an idiot who broke a bunch of bones last month (including in my painting hand), but I am finally back to painting!

I finally based a Librarian that had been lurking around.

These Meganobz were the only thing I had primed, so that was what I started with painting wise.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

That Gobbo posted:

I just tried some Contrast over my white stynylrez primed lizardmen and it seemed to work well enough for me.

I just painted 80 skinks conventionally ( tiny 90s bow ones).
Post pics. Hurt me.

That Gobbo
Mar 27, 2010

Harvey Mantaco posted:

I just painted 80 skinks conventionally ( tiny 90s bow ones).
Post pics. Hurt me.

This evening I did 19 skinks with Contrast and a few other quick paint picks, I was listening to a podcast and when I finished I was very surprised I had only been painting for about an hour and ten minutes. The one on the left was my 'classically' painted skink. They're not gonna win any best painted awards but I'm happy to push them out of my painting backlog since they've been ignored for about six months now. The shields ended up with a lot of pooling but I was kind of just slopping it on without regard. I'll probably go back and pick out the eyes and brighten the neon pink head fins.

Quidthulhu
Dec 17, 2003

Stand down, men! It's only smooching!

Airbrush setup question!

I just snagged an Iwata Eclipse, which I’m trying to connect to a Paasche D3000R compressor. The compressor end of the hose that came with the Eclipse connects to the compressor fine, but I’m getting leakage out of the bottom female connector (the looser part that connects to the hose). I also have a Paasche branded hoses that also connects and has no leakage there, but unfortunately I’m getting leakage at the airbrush connection point when I use a converter to attach it to the Iwata.

Is this a potentially common defect in Iwata hoses, or am I just trying to connect things that technically fit but aren’t compatible to make a seal? I’m about to snag another Iwata hose off Amazon to see if I can replicate the issue, but if anyone has any experience making the Eclipse work with the D3000R I’d appreciate it.

I am both excited and terrified to embark on this airbrushing journey so I hope I can figure this out!

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(

That Gobbo posted:

This evening I did 19 skinks with Contrast and a few other quick paint picks, I was listening to a podcast and when I finished I was very surprised I had only been painting for about an hour and ten minutes. The one on the left was my 'classically' painted skink. They're not gonna win any best painted awards but I'm happy to push them out of my painting backlog since they've been ignored for about six months now. The shields ended up with a lot of pooling but I was kind of just slopping it on without regard. I'll probably go back and pick out the eyes and brighten the neon pink head fins.



Beautiful! Glad you saved all the time I wasted. Finished my last 2 tonight (had to make the shields myself out of blue stuff and plumber's epoxy so it took forever)
When I get bored painting I get lazy. Contrast would prevent me from slacking off and leaving ugly brush strokes so honestly I think it would turn out better than the long way.




(I've been meaning to paint these for 23 years. I sent a bunch of pictures to my confused mother who is very proud her adult son finally painted his lizards)

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer

Quidthulhu posted:

Airbrush setup question!

I just snagged an Iwata Eclipse, which I’m trying to connect to a Paasche D3000R compressor. The compressor end of the hose that came with the Eclipse connects to the compressor fine, but I’m getting leakage out of the bottom female connector (the looser part that connects to the hose). I also have a Paasche branded hoses that also connects and has no leakage there, but unfortunately I’m getting leakage at the airbrush connection point when I use a converter to attach it to the Iwata.

Is this a potentially common defect in Iwata hoses, or am I just trying to connect things that technically fit but aren’t compatible to make a seal? I’m about to snag another Iwata hose off Amazon to see if I can replicate the issue, but if anyone has any experience making the Eclipse work with the D3000R I’d appreciate it.

I am both excited and terrified to embark on this airbrushing journey so I hope I can figure this out!

Put Teflon tape on the connections.

Quidthulhu
Dec 17, 2003

Stand down, men! It's only smooching!

Booley posted:

Put Teflon tape on the connections.

Sorry, meant to mention I already had done this. The leakage is coming from the looser hose connected end of the compressor connection, which does not tighten or come apart. Gets worse depending on the angle the hose is sitting in it if I push on it.

Mistafab
May 15, 2009

Remember gitface when I promised to kill you last?

I LIED

LazyAngel posted:

Finally finished the troll I've been working on on-off for a couple of weeks now. Not that it took too long, but I tend to paint in bursts, and usually just at the weekend.




Really need to fill gaps better next time.

Just wanted to jump in and say, drat that's a fantastic paintjob on an awesome model. Been flirting with getting it for a while and your paintjob is making it even harder to resist. Really all the newish goblin and troll models are fantastic. But seriously, this needs more love, amazing job!

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
A fair number of airbrush connections actually can be straight pipe thread instead of taper and teflon tape is less suitable for sealing these. Usually they should have an o-ring in the female fitting that the male seals against. If it's a male NPT going into a female straight pipe swivel it might become tight because the male threads have jammed in like they should, but not be forcing the swivel parts of the female side together to seal.

Marzipan Pig
May 5, 2019

God, I'm tired

Quidthulhu posted:

Sorry, meant to mention I already had done this. The leakage is coming from the looser hose connected end of the compressor connection, which does not tighten or come apart. Gets worse depending on the angle the hose is sitting in it if I push on it.

Seriously just wrap more electrical tape or w/e around it. You're just sealing up a loose connection, I wouldn't even bother getting another hose to try. It takes more tape than you'd think but works. My Iwata has a bunch of tape around the connector at the compressor end and that's with the matching components. I moved it around too much and now it leaks if it's not taped up tight.

Owlbear Camus
Jan 3, 2013

Maybe this guy that flies is just sort of passing through, you know?



I did a contrast job right onto the pre-prime out of the box on a D&D black dragon and it looked great. This is the real deal for getting your hordes/backlog table-ready.

Can I use normal spray varnishes like dullcoate over this stuff?

JIZZ DENOUEMENT
Oct 3, 2012

STRIKE!

That Gobbo posted:

This evening I did 19 skinks with Contrast and a few other quick paint picks, I was listening to a podcast and when I finished I was very surprised I had only been painting for about an hour and ten minutes. The one on the left was my 'classically' painted skink. They're not gonna win any best painted awards but I'm happy to push them out of my painting backlog since they've been ignored for about six months now. The shields ended up with a lot of pooling but I was kind of just slopping it on without regard. I'll probably go back and pick out the eyes and brighten the neon pink head fins.



Dude these look great. They aren’t golden demon winners, and yes they look really good.

That’s way better than the majority of paint jobs out there.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer
I watched a youtube guide on how to paint blanchitsu style, and came across this cool paint the instructor was using for verdigris.



I think it goes on pretty great. If you wanted to, because it's an oil paint you could also do a streaking grime style with it.

head58
Apr 1, 2013

Contrast over Krylon Fusion White Satin primer, painting up some creatures from the Stuffed Fables board game. I’m not that impressed. I don’t see much difference from just using a wash - spreads super thin, pools up everywhere, and it takes at least 2 coats to get even the barest of coverage (the green dudes I think we’re 3 coats). Not sure if it’s just not reacting well with the primer or if it’s because there really aren’t a ton of details on these models. But even the hair on the doll spider things, it just ran into the cracks leaving the raised bits completely white.

Colors are ork flesh green and fryeslayer flesh on the back dudes, darkoath flesh and black Templar on the doll things.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer




I'm so afraid to transport my newly contrast painted Callidus... she's so thin and spread out :ohdear:

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Yeast posted:

Finally finished the Marauder Destroyer













X-Postin. Def haven't been walking around the studio making jet sounds or anything.

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



drat, did you do the blending on those windows by hand? It looks great.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

drat, did you do the blending on those windows by hand? It looks great.

Oh poo poo no.

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



I had no idea you could do blending on such small surfaces with an airbrush, I really need to bite the bullet and pick up a Patriot one of these days.

BULBASAUR
Apr 6, 2009




Soiled Meat
Yeah, an airbrush is such a game changer. I don't know how some of you guys every tolerated painting vehicles with a brush. I tried to paint my first rhino that way and gave up half way through the basecoat stage. I bought an airbrush the next day.

Salynne
Oct 25, 2007

BULBASAUR posted:

Yeah, an airbrush is such a game changer. I don't know how some of you guys every tolerated painting vehicles with a brush. I tried to paint my first rhino that way and gave up half way through the basecoat stage. I bought an airbrush the next day.

Did you finish the rhino in the end?

redpleb
Feb 1, 2013
goon friends! the day is coming when badger will finally send me my patriot for their 55th birthday deal and I'm a poor that will require a compressor. I read the OP and know that my options are slim, but has anything changed in the world of small cheap compressors in the 3 years since the op? it seems like the recommended ~$200 compressor is more like <300 now and that's a little out of my price range.

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adamantium|wang
Sep 14, 2003

Missing you

General Olloth posted:

Did you finish the rhino in the end?

Don't be ridiculous





It became an Iron Hands Vindicator

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