|
Is there really not a single X470 microATX board?
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 23:33
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 19:31 |
|
|
ilkhan posted:Is there really not a single X470 microATX board? It seems there is a single one, but its a server board so it's $280 and meant for rackmount. Also out of stock in both places that list it: https://pcpartpicker.com/products/motherboard/#s=33&f=7&c=132
|
|
#
?
Jun 21, 2019 23:51
|
|
|
Thom P. Tiers posted:Sound cards are rear end. Just get a DAC/amp to plug your (assuming) good pair of regular headphones into. They are, but don't underestimate just how bad the B450 is. if Anand's benchmarks are worth anything it has 83.5dBA SNR, second worst on the list of its peers. even the cheapest soundcard I can find gives me 106 dBa. if, hypothetically, somebody else with a B450 wants a $30 "it'll be better" solution and not a $200 "it'll actually be good" one, might be worth knowing. still, good advice on some DAC/amps to look at from everyone, thanks. I'll do some research on those.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 01:17
|
|
|
Sound cards don't usually live up to their stated SNR specs either, eg: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-asus-stx-ii-pci-sound-card.4915/ Also while 83.5 dbA SNR might be on the low end in terms of measurements it isn't audibly very bad. Typical room noise floors are around 25-30 dbA and listening above 85 dBA is considered to be damaging to hearing over long periods. (Not that the motherboard sound can't be bad in other ways like frequency response and harmonic distortion.) Llamadeus fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 01:38
|
|
|
If you have a DisplayPort or HDMI monitor with a headphone jack, I'd also give that a try. It's not going to be as a good as a DAC/amp stack, but depending on the monitor it might be better than the onboard amp.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 01:51
|
|
|
If you want a drat near measurably perfect DAC/amp get a Kalidas Tone Board and JDS atom for $200, but the odds that you actually need them / could hear a difference are quite small. I like ASR as some work reading but Amir is up front that most of his complaints are well below audibility.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 02:00
|
|
|
Llamadeus posted:Also while 83.5 dbA SNR might be on the low end in terms of measurements it isn't audibly very bad. Typical room noise floors are around 25-30 dbA and listening above 85 dBA is considered to be damaging to hearing over long periods. (Not that the motherboard sound can't be bad in other ways like frequency response and harmonic distortion.) yeah, for sure. I didn't mean that to be the end-all number, just pointing out one of the ways in which it sucks against its peers. i should've clarified that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 03:29
|
|
|
DeadFatDuckFat posted:So I think I'm confused on the rules for transferring your windows 10 license over to a new rig. Googling this says that you can do this as long as its not an OEM copy and that Microsoft will let you transfer windows over ONCE. I wouldn't worry about it too much. I've literally never had trouble transferring my Windows license over to a new machine, and that's even with OEM copies. I run Windows 10 with a Windows 7 OEM key I bought ten years ago.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 04:30
|
|
|
Hey guys, I'm chiming back in again. I made a post a few weeks back asking a few questions about a Ryzen 3000 build, and I have a few more. I'm slowly piecing stuff together on PCPartpicker, but I'm not far enough along to do a full post up. However, I do have a few questions as I haven't had to look at PC components since doing my 3570k build in 2012, aside from minor upgrades like GPU and SSD since. Speaking of SSD's: M2/ NVMe etc it's a bit confusing, but I guess M2 is the upgrade from SATA, and the NVMe is the actual physical holder on the mobo? Ether way I'm considering this as the the main SSD on my new computer: https://www.newegg.com/xpg-sx8200-pro-1tb/p/0D9-0017-000W4?Description=XPG%20SX8200&cm_re=XPG_SX8200-_-0D9-0017-000W4-_-Product I'd also be using my currend Samsung Pro 840 as a SATA backup, but it's only 256gb. I don't know much about XPG, but I saw it recommended two pages back. Is that a solid purchase, and if not what other SSD's are recommended? Memory: I'd like to not skimp on this front. Is DDR4 3600 the speed I should be looking for? I'd be definitely looking at 16gb maybe 32GB if my budget allows. Are there any manufacturers I should stay away from? Any that stand out as superb in 2019? Power Supply: Right now I'm looking at the SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650W. I see that EVGA has jumped into the game and is highly recommended all over the place as well. I know SeaSonic has been the power supply company for years so I'll likely go with them, unless people really say EVGA knocks it out of the park. Cooler: What are my options for Air cooling, and what are some decent options for liquid cooling? I haven't done liquid cooling before, but I've said my next build will have it and whelp, the time is now for that build. Depending on how everything else prices out, if I haven't skimped anywhere else and I have a few extra bucks, I'll do the liquid cooling. Thanks for any replies.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 05:52
|
|
|
I think M.2 is the form/connector, and NVME is the protocol that helps enable higher-speed file-transfer? That one's not bad but you can definitely find some that are slightly cheaper. The microcenter brand is usually about $100 for a TB and they're running a deal on Intel NVMEs for about the same, but they sadly are in-store only. EFFORTPOST: Stickman posted:That should be good for what you want to do! Check if you have a Microcenter nearby for the sweet, sweet deals on the CPU/mobo combo. I took Stickman's advice and decided to take a drive down to the nearest Microcenter and hang out with a buddy afterwards. Can I say how nice Microcenter is? Like some weird professional version of Fry's with great prices. Loved being there. But since I was there, I decided the 10 bux I spent on gas meant I should just pick up most everything so I ended up with CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2 GHz 6-Core Processor ($79.99) Motherboard: ASRock - B450M PRO4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($39.99, down from $69.99 thanks to $30 discount) Storage: Inland Premium 256GB SSD 3D NAND M.2 2280 PCIe NVMe 3.0 x4 Internal Solid State Drive ($34.99) Power Supply: PowerSpec 550 Watt 80 Plus Bronze ATX Fixed Power Supply ($42.99) Wireless Network Adapter: ASUS PCE-AC55BT B1 AC1200 Bluetooth 4.2 Dual Band PCI-Express Adapter ($34.99 ) Thermal Paste: Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 (0.99, down from $5.99 with a $5 discount code as suggested upthread Cost was about $235 before tax and poo poo. I left out the optical drive, memory and GFX card because my pay was light this month and really, those could be had later on. Well, maybe not the RAM, should have picked up RAM. Anyway, here's the case I've been lugging around for 15 years  Budget specs from the post-9/11 computing age. Pretty sure I never touched the Wordperfect suite, and god I'm sure the graphics sucked rear end since I threw an All-In-Wonder (also rear end) in it ASAP.  I removed most of the components from the inside (left the optical and disk drives in) and cleaned the interior of the case. Then I got to work placing the new poo poo in. I found an older model drive that will have to be migrated -- need to grab an IDE to SATA cable for that. Surprisingly, the screwholes and spacers for the thing worked great with the new mobo... there was even a retainer spacer at the top right that clicked in perfectly to hold it together. Surprised that HP didn't just poo poo the bed with weirdo design.  The one thing that sucks pretty bad about this case, and Stickman noted it before, is cable management. Tried my best by shoving a lot of the unnecessary plugs into the little caddy at the front, but the SATA data cables are going to be fun.  Acourse, since I skipped the RAM there's nothing to place in those slots at the moment to check if it works. So here's where I take a break with this.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 06:16
|
|
|
Zotix posted:Hey guys, I'm chiming back in again. I made a post a few weeks back asking a few questions about a Ryzen 3000 build, and I have a few more. I'm slowly piecing stuff together on PCPartpicker, but I'm not far enough along to do a full post up. However, I do have a few questions as I haven't had to look at PC components since doing my 3570k build in 2012, aside from minor upgrades like GPU and SSD since. It's the other way around actually: "M.2" is the physical form factor for small drive cards that slot into the motherboard, and "NVMe" refers to the controller interface that uses PCIe lanes to connect to your system. M.2 drives can come in both SATA and NVMe flavors, and SATA M.2 drives will perform identically to the 2.5" versions. The ADATA sx8200 Pro is a very solid NVMe drive, outperforming pretty much everything except Samsung's "Pro" drives, which start at double the cost. If your primary goal is gaming, though, you won't notice a difference between the sx8200 Pro and the $105 HP ex920 or $100 Inland Premium (if you have a Microcenter nearby). In fact, for most workloads that aren't moving very large files NVMe drives aren't much of a performance boost over SATA SSDs. Zotix posted:Memory: I'd like to not skimp on this front. Is DDR4 3600 the speed I should be looking for? I'd be definitely looking at 16gb maybe 32GB if my budget allows. Are there any manufacturers I should stay away from? Any that stand out as superb in 2019? G.Skill and Corsair are generally well-trusted. 3600 would be a solid choice, but going over 3200 has been hit-or-miss with 1st and 2nd-gen Ryzen CPUs, so I'd wait for compatibility reports before making any decisions. Zotix posted:Power Supply: Right now I'm looking at the SeaSonic FOCUS Plus 650W. I see that EVGA has jumped into the game and is highly recommended all over the place as well. I know SeaSonic has been the power supply company for years so I'll likely go with them, unless people really say EVGA knocks it out of the park. Seasonic Focus Plus is great, and EVGA's G1+/G2/G3 perform about the same, as does the Corsair RMx (2018). I usually recommend going with whatever's cheapest, but there's usually not a huge difference in price. The 550W/650W versions of the G2 and G3 only come with 7-year warranties instead of 10. Zotix posted:Cooler: What are my options for Air cooling, and what are some decent options for liquid cooling? I haven't done liquid cooling before, but I've said my next build will have it and whelp, the time is now for that build. Depending on how everything else prices out, if I haven't skimped anywhere else and I have a few extra bucks, I'll do the liquid cooling. For air cooling, the budget option is just to use the stock cooler. Ryzen CPUs come with decent stock coolers, and the stock coolers on "X" chips are even good enough for a decent overclock. They will be a bit on the louder side, though. On the top end, the Noctua D15s is still king. You can add a second fan for a few extra degrees of cooling. In the middle, the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B comes decently close to D15 performance for half the price. I don't have a lot of AIO knowledge, but the Corsair H115i is generally well-regarded. In balanced mode it'll have pretty similar performance to a D15s but you'll have a little bit more room to crank up the fans and eek out a bit more cooling at the expense of noise. FilthyImp posted:[awesome build] That's really cool! I feel like you should maybe try ripping the guts out of one of these and hooking it up to an internal USB 2.0 header with an adapter for that full early 2000's flavor. E: That one might not work with Windows 10, though :/ Stickman fucked around with this message at 06:50 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 06:38
|
|
|
haha that's going to be a sick sleeper build
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 06:39
|
|
|
Paul MaudDib posted:haha that's going to be a sick sleeper build
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 07:01
|
|
|
Thank you for the breakdown. It helps a lot going forward.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 10:01
|
|
|
Khorne posted:Pair it with a CRT to really trick people who visit your home. I would love one of the 27" 1080p CRT monitors from back in the day. I actually had a 32" WEGA TV at one point and I really regret having to give it away because that bitch could do native 720p on a CRT.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 11:28
|
|
|
I'm gonna pull the trigger on a Ryzen 2600X to replace the Intel system in my ITX, TV-gaming build. I'm using an NZXT H200i case with a Z270 mobo in there at the moment. They will be going on eBay to offset the cost of my upgrade. First Question Will the cooler that comes with the 2600X fit comfortably in a H200i? It comes with the Wraith Spire. Second Question I'd like a decent B450 mobo that will let the 2600X run at stock or maybe a slight overclock. I'm willing to spend extra ŁŁ on the motherboard if there are significant advantages over the lower-tier boards. Any recommendations for a B450 ITX mobo. I might even stretch to a X470 but I don't think that it would be getting used to its full potential if I went X470. I'm still willing to go the extra mile if there's a really nice one, though. I already have 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200 and an NVMe, so it's just a 2600X and a nice ITX board that I'm gonna buy. Thanks. A quick glance on Amazon reveals the MSI B450i Gaming Plus, the Aorus B450 PRO WiFi. The ROG Strix is priced way higher and, while I could afford to pay that much, I really don't think I'd use it to it's full potential. I'm not bothered about on-board WiFi as I have ethernet running round the back of the TV anyway. Which would be a discerning choice of motherboard?
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 12:20
|
|
|
Llamadeus posted:Sound cards don't usually live up to their stated SNR specs either, eg: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/review-and-measurements-of-asus-stx-ii-pci-sound-card.4915/ The problem with using SNR as a measure of audio quality is that it is only valid at the highest volume setting and the noise itself is often louder than the 25-30 dBA floor so you will hear it in the headphones as a hiss or buzzing at all times. The SNR is only valid when the desired audio is playing at 120+ dBA, so its measurement is true but also practically useless. But for most DACs the noise doesn't get louder or softer with the master volume, so the trick is to set the master volume at maximum and then use an external volume control to reduce everything including the noise by ~60 dBA. So you get a ~60 dBA signal, and the noise is reduced to -25 to -30 dBA which is well below the floor. Though for my PC I just dump 6 channel PCM over HDMI into a yamaha home theater amp, its DACs are better quality and better isolated than anything you'd find inside the case.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 13:19
|
|
|
Gonna go with the MSI B450i Gaming Plus ITX mobo. I have the red version of the H200i case and and MSI board is all in red. I just saw a review of the Wraith Spire that comes with the 2600X and it's the same as my 1700 Wraith Spire but it doesn't have the red LED ring around it on the 2600X. My 1700 is in a Fractal R5 case, out of sight, so I plan to swap the coolers around so that my red PC case has the red mobo and the Wraith Spire with the red ring around it. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 13:40
|
|
|
Mac step dad...Kids first build, is he picking the best stuff for a gaming PC? We're reusing his 500GB SSD primary drive and 2TB 5400RPM for storage to save money. he actually has $1000 saved so if anyone has used parts that would below we'd be happy to purchase! He wants: Intel i9-9900k 3.6 ghz 8 core we're finding for $475 gigabyte - Z390 aurus pro wifi atx lga1151 we're finding at $180 EVGA geforce rtx 2070 8gb black for $480 EVGA supernova g3 750w $110 Be quite dark rock pro 4 50.5 cfm cpu cooler $89 Corsair vengeance lpx 16 gb (2x8) ddr4 - 3200 $85 (PC ram always confuses me) fractal design - meshify c atx mid tower case $90 (he's always worried about over heating....even though he really does live in the basement bedroom in Colorado...) Here's what he had/has (we added the 500gb SSD and a EVGA 6gb graphics card...I forgot which model) : https://www.newegg.com/acer-aspire-...-_-83101452-S0I He's got a 144ghz monitor, mechanical keyboard, gaming mouse and pad, so we're good on all the accessories. Thoughts, suggestions? Again, I'm a mac guy, been using them since the Apple IIe. PC Goon advice is appreciated!
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 18:27
|
|
|
Another question. I currently have a 1070 that's just coming up on 3 years, and I noticed artifacting/ color palate issues in a game last night. I reinstalled the game, and I still have it a little bit. I didn't notice any issues when I ran 2 benchmarking tools. I think I'm probably going to RMA it since I have roughly 1 week left to do it. That being said, since I'm doing a new build I might just pick up a new video card since I don't have a backup while doing the RMA. Will a 2070 hold up well at 1440p? I notice some issues with my 1070 on my 3570k. I'd be upgrading to a Ryzen 3700 or higher in the coming weeks. Also, any issues with running Nvidia cards on an AMD CPU? My monitor is a Gsync monitor and I'd like to stay with Nvidia cards. With Ram, how important is CAS latency when looking at ram? Should I put more emphasis on the Speed or the latency? Zotix fucked around with this message at 18:35 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 18:28
|
|
|
uwimage posted:Mac step dad...Kids first build, is he picking the best stuff for a gaming PC? We're reusing his 500GB SSD primary drive and 2TB 5400RPM for storage to save money. he actually has $1000 saved so if anyone has used parts that would below we'd be happy to purchase! That's a pretty good parts list but I would just suggest waiting a few weeks, the AMD Ryzen 3000 line is coming out on July 7th and it looks like the R7 3700X might offer performance similar to the 9900k for $329. Also AMD and Nvidia are about to launch new GPUs, the AMD ones look pretty underwhelming but Nvidia is also refreshing their lineup and there might be some price reductions.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 18:50
|
|
|
Zotix posted:Another question. I currently have a 1070 that's just coming up on 3 years, and I noticed artifacting/ color palate issues in a game last night. I reinstalled the game, and I still have it a little bit. I didn't notice any issues when I ran 2 benchmarking tools. I think I'm probably going to RMA it since I have roughly 1 week left to do it. That being said, since I'm doing a new build I might just pick up a new video card since I don't have a backup while doing the RMA. Will a 2070 hold up well at 1440p? I notice some issues with my 1070 on my 3570k. I'd be upgrading to a Ryzen 3700 or higher in the coming weeks. Also, any issues with running Nvidia cards on an AMD CPU? My monitor is a Gsync monitor and I'd like to stay with Nvidia cards. RMA is definitely the way to go. There's a decent chance that you might even get a 2070 back if they've depleted their 1070 stock! Babeltech has a pretty comprehensive 1080p/1440p ultra/very high benchmark for a variety of games. In general, a 2070 at 1440p is roughly equivalent to a 1070 at 1080p. It'll do 60+ fps at ultra/very high settings for almost everything except the most demanding(/unoptimized) games like AC:Odyssey, and even then it's close enough that it should be fine with *sync (or you can turn down a few settings). No issues with pairing AMD CPUs with NVidia cards. NVidia is the best card choice for anything over $200 anyway, so you're not missing out by ignoring AMD! CAS latency differences between RAM of the same clock speed can matter a small amount in gaming but it's generally going to be on the order of 1-2 fps, if anything. It's usually not worth the premium you pay. When you're consider RAM of different clock speeds, be aware that CAS is measured in clock cycles rather than time. That means that 3200/CL16 actually has the same true latency as 3000/CL15, and that generally holds true for the standard timings of cheaper kits at each clock speed.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 19:05
|
|
|
MaxxBot posted:That's a pretty good parts list but I would just suggest waiting a few weeks, the AMD Ryzen 3000 line is coming out on July 7th and it looks like the R7 3700X might offer performance similar to the 9900k for $329. Also AMD and Nvidia are about to launch new GPUs, the AMD ones look pretty underwhelming but Nvidia is also refreshing their lineup and there might be some price reductions. Thanks for the quick reply, I showed him your reply and he agreed waiting a couple of weeks to save the money would be worth. If he wasn’t so stupid and going to have his freshmen year of college done In high school I wouldn’t help him out but since he’s even getting all A’s in AP classes I guess I gotta...f’ing kids.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 19:17
|
|
|
uwimage posted:Mac step dad...Kids first build, is he picking the best stuff for a gaming PC? We're reusing his 500GB SSD primary drive and 2TB 5400RPM for storage to save money. he actually has $1000 saved so if anyone has used parts that would below we'd be happy to purchase! If budget is a concern, the 9900k is a massive overkill for most gamers. The CPU usually only significantly affects gaming performance when it's acting as a bottleneck at very high frame rates. What constitutes "very high" is game dependent, but generally games that more CPU-intensive are also more GPU-intensive, so with a 2070 you're unlikely to notice a difference between a 9900k and an $80 Ryzen 1600 in current games even at 1080p unless you turn down settings to crank up the frame rate. Even then, the differences are going to mostly going to show up in 100+ fps range, where the difference between 120 and 140fps (or even 100 and 140) isn't terribly noticeable to most people. If they're playing at 1440p+ on high/ultra settings, you'll probably never enter that range anyway. That said, there are two advantages to more expensive CPUs. If you're a competitive gamer you might actually see some advantage by throwing down money to squeeze out those last few fps at the top end, and it can extend the longevity of your machine through another GPU upgrade or two. Going with a cheaper AMD CPU and a good motherboard gives you plenty of drop-in CPU upgrade options for 4+ years down the line when it starts feeling anemic. CPUs can also affect the smoothness of frame pacing at lower fps, but right now that's generally only a problem with older 4 core/4 thread processors. We have a ways to go before even slower 6 core/12 thread processor start to affect frame pacing. With that in mind, the build looks good and the 9900k is currently top-dog for gaming CPUs (and the Gigabyte Aorus Pro is the best-value z390 choice), but I'd 1) wait for Zen 2 benchmarks to drop, since they might hit equivalent performance at a cheaper price point, and 2) consider a Ryzen 2600x build instead: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.89 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($139.89 @ OutletPC) Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($69.99 @ Newegg) Storage: HP - EX920 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($104.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($499.99 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design - Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.99 @ Walmart) Power Supply: Corsair - RMx (2018) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($25.00) Total: $1199.73 That's significantly cheaper even with the 1TB NVMe SSD thrown in, and he could use some of the difference to upgrade the GPU or the monitor. The stock cooler on the 2600X is sufficient for a decent overclock, but if they want something cooler the Scythe Mugen 5 Rev.B is just a small tier down from the top-end air coolers but half the price. The Corsair 750W is just because it currently the cheapest 750W Corsair RMx/Seasonic Focus Plus/EVGA G1+/G2/G3 750W. For this build a 650W PSU would also be totally sufficient! You can pick up a Windows 7 Pro key from SAMart for $25 and use that to activate Windows 10 Pro. If you have any Windows 7/8/10 keys lying around from old machines that are no longer in use, you could use those instead. Stickman fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 19:31
|
|
|
Zotix posted:Will a 2070 hold up well at 1440p? Gaming above 1080p seems like a fool's errand in my experience (though I'm doing it on a laptop).
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 19:49
|
|
|
Stickman posted:If budget is a concern, the 9900k is a massive overkill for most gamers. The CPU usually only significantly affects gaming performance when it's acting as a bottleneck at very high frame rates. What constitutes "very high" is game dependent, but generally games that more CPU-intensive are also more GPU-intensive, so with a 2070 you're unlikely to notice a difference between a 9900k and an $80 Ryzen 1600 in current games even at 1080p unless you turn down settings to crank up the frame rate. Even then, the differences are going to mostly going to show up in 100+ fps range, where the difference between 120 and 140fps (or even 100 and 140) isn't terribly noticeable to most people. If they're playing at 1440p+ on high/ultra settings, you'll probably never enter that range anyway. drat it...and this is one of the reasons I should upgrade to platinum because that $10 I spent 10 years ago...well...Even our youngest had his cell phone stepped on at school, another goon gave me one (upgrade at that), different goon paid for shipping and now I get great advice here. Blows away any other forum. Thank you!
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 20:29
|
|
|
FilthyImp posted:Is the 1440 a requirement because of the monitor you have? Yeah.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 20:41
|
|
|
FilthyImp posted:Gaming above 1080p seems like a fool's errand in my experience (though I'm doing it on a laptop). Looking at a new build sometime in Q3 of this year. Is this just a function of video cards required to game at 1440p being cost prohibitive?
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 20:49
|
|
|
uwimage posted:drat it...and this is one of the reasons I should upgrade to platinum because that $10 I spent 10 years ago...well...Even our youngest had his cell phone stepped on at school, another goon gave me one (upgrade at that), different goon paid for shipping and now I get great advice here. Blows away any other forum. Your welcome! I should add that the 3700x will likely be a decent $150 upgrade if he wants to go 8-core. X470/B450 motherboards will be compatible with 3rd-gen Ryzen CPUs so he wouldn't have to get a more expensive X570 board, though he might need to update the bios with a flash drive prior to installation. The Asus Prime X470 Pro has good enough power management that it should be able to get a decent overclock even without moving up to more expensive boards like the X470-f or X570. FilthyImp posted:Is the 1440 a requirement because of the monitor you have? 1440p is fantastic for desktop gaming and perfect for 27" monitors - moving up from 1080p was a revelation! A 27" 1440p monitor has the same pixel density as a 20" 1440p monitor. A 2070 at 1440p will perform about the same as a 1660 Ti at 1080p, which is sufficient even if you like maxing your settings. I can see why it wouldn't be terribly useful on smaller laptop screens, though. Used 1080 Ti's are another great option, though they're starting to get a little on the old side now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 20:52
|
|
|
Indiana_Krom posted:I have a pretty good set of noise isolating earbuds I use on trips, but one of the problems is they are good enough that they pick up noise from cheap DACs in phones. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 21:19
|
|
|
Tell me how dumb I am. Looking for a mid-range PC for gaming (1440p but don't need everything maxed out) and some encoding and other misc not too intensive tasks. I'm in Canada, Budget is $1500 CAD https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/3WdR29 AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $258 ASRock - B450 Pro4 ATX AM4 Motherboard $125 G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $96 Western Digital - Blue 2 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $269 Asus - GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB DUAL OC Video Card $380 Corsair - SPEC-06 ATX Mid Tower Case $100 SeaSonic - 520 W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $85 = 1313CAD pre tax. Questions/Concerns: Am I right to understand that when the motherboard specs say quote:AMD Ryzen series CPUs (Summit Ridge and Pinnacle Ridge) I'm thinking about spending an extra $90 to go to 32Gb RAM, how dumb is that? Would that be better put into moving to a 2060? or neither? Does the brand of the GTX 1660 Ti matter? Asus/MSI/EVGA all seem to cost the same and specs look identical. Edit: PC parts picker wants me to buy aftermarket cpu cooling. Doesn't seem worth it to me if I only plan to do a normal overclock, nothing extreme. Peaceful Anarchy fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 22:26
|
|
|
DeadFatDuckFat posted:So I think I'm confused on the rules for transferring your windows 10 license over to a new rig. Googling this says that you can do this as long as its not an OEM copy and that Microsoft will let you transfer windows over ONCE. Worst case scenario you can buy an OEM key on eBay for $3. Literally had to do it this afternoon because I RMAd a motherboard. Also I’ve transferred three hard drives to three different motherboard this month and didn’t need to reinstall windows. You may want to though just to make sure all old drivers are wiped; you can do the semi reinstall that removes all programs and apps but leaves basic files alone too though. Just back everything up beforehand in case it messes up. skylined! fucked around with this message at 22:45 on Jun 22, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 22:39
|
|
|
Just for shits and grins I looked at what I paid for 16 gigs of the Trident G Skill RGB RAM. 16gig kit was $224.99. That same RAM is now $114.99 
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 22:50
|
|
|
Peaceful Anarchy posted:Tell me how dumb I am. Looking for a mid-range PC for gaming (1440p but don't need everything maxed out) and some encoding and other misc not too intensive tasks. You're correct about the motherboard M.2 slot, but the drive you've selected is SATA (rather than NVMe, i.e. PCIe) which means you'll need to put it in M2_2 and SATA3_3 and SATA3_4 will be disabled instead. Unless you're doing something very RAM-intensive, 32GB isn't necessary for games now and probably won't be for at least a few years. The 2060 would be a decent 10-20% performance boost, which would let you pump up the settings a bit higher and still hit good frame rates. Babeltech has a nice comprehensive benchmark comparison. The stock cooler on the 2600X is sufficient for a decent overclock, and will fit in your case and won't cause problems with the RAM slots. I'd start with that and only get an aftermarket cooler if you find it too noisy. Here's what I would suggest upgrading: 1) PSU: The Seasonic Focus Gold Plus 550W is $15 more, but gets you a better quality PSU of newer design with a 10-year rather than 5-year warranty. 2) Motherboard: This one is a bit more optional because Canadaland prices are quite a bit higher than in the US, but the Pro4 is somewhat marginal for overclocking a 2600X, and would be even moreso if you decide to drop in a 3rd-gen 8- or 12-core some years down the line. The MSi B450 Tomahawk has great power management, but it's $40 more and only has one M.2 slot. If you want two M.2 slots, I'd recommend the Asus X470 Prime Pro, which also has a number of other nice upgrades over the Tomahawk/Pro4, like upgraded onboard audio, lan, and extra USB ports. Unfortunately it's $190 so it's a tough sell, but you could fit it in and still upgrade to a 2060 within your budget. 3) GPU: The EVGA 2060 Ultra Gaming is $100 over your selected 1660 Ti. Check out the benchmarks I linked and see if you think it's worth the upgrade. That leaves you with this build for $1,505.
|
|
#
?
Jun 22, 2019 23:21
|
|
|
I have a system that is about.... five years old at this point. I’ve swapped out the power supply for something a little higher rated, and bumped up to 16 gigs of RAM, but otherwise done nothing and everything is great. Would it make sense to bump up to a 2080 RTX card and put it in this system? I’d be holding on for another two years before completely building a new system, except that I’d move a new graphics card over. Would a new card make for significant performance boosts on an i5 with an older SSD?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 00:56
|
|
|
Stickman posted:You're correct about the motherboard M.2 slot, but the drive you've selected is SATA (rather than NVMe, i.e. PCIe) which means you'll need to put it in M2_2 and SATA3_3 and SATA3_4 will be disabled instead. So if I'm reading the X470 prime pro specs right: quote:Expansion Slots 2 x PCIe 3.0 x16 (x16 or dual x8) 1 x PCIe 2.0 x16 (max at x4 mode) 3 x PCIe 2.0 x1 Plus 1 x M.2 Socket 3, with M key, type 2242/2260/2280/22110 storage devices support (SATA & PCIE 3.0 x 4 mode) 1 x M.2 Socket 3, with M Key, type 2242/2260/2280 storage devices support (SATA & PCIE 3.0 x 2 mode) 6 x SATA 6Gb/s port(s) Where if I ever used the PCIe 2.0 x16 slot then that would neuter two of the PCIe 2.0 x1, and I can use the first M2 slot with SATA or NVMe without interfering with anything and if I used the second M2 slot I would either block use of the the three PCIe slots mentioned or I can only use it for SATA? (There has to be a better way of laying out specs like these) It's annoying to be paying 60 or so more on a Mobo just so I can use an extra HD, since I'll never find a use for the extra PCIe slots and the marginally better LAN and sound don't mean much to me, but at least I get an extra M2 slot for the future. For 2060 vs 1660Ti I've spent hours looking at benchmarks and going back and forth on if it's worth it to me. 1660Ti is at the sweet spot of value it seems, but 2060 is not far off in value and maybe will age better. Hmmm.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 01:02
|
|
|
poisonpill posted:I have a system that is about.... five years old at this point. I’ve swapped out the power supply for something a little higher rated, and bumped up to 16 gigs of RAM, but otherwise done nothing and everything is great. Would it make sense to bump up to a 2080 RTX card and put it in this system? I’d be holding on for another two years before completely building a new system, except that I’d move a new graphics card over. Would a new card make for significant performance boosts on an i5 with an older SSD? What's your monitor's resolution/refresh rate and your current GPU? Even with a modern CPU, a 2080 is overkill for 1080p (and especially 1080p/60Hz). If you're playing at 1440p or especially 4k, there's quite a few games where you'll see an advantage with a 2080, even with an older i5. However, your CPU is 4-core/4-thread, and we're getting to the point where that will start giving you frame pacing problems in some games like AC:Odyssey, Shadow of the Tomb Raider, and Hitman 2. If you're interested in playing those sorts of games you're going to have performance issues even at lower frame rates, and we'll probalby see more games like that released over the next two years. You older SSD won't be an issue at all - at worst it affects load times, but probably not by much.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 01:06
|
|
|
Thanks, that makes sense. Right now it’s hooked up to my TV, which is technically 4K but I don’t crank up anything past 1080. Mainly I’m concerned with Assassins Creed, which chugs, and Cyberpunk 2077 next year. I do feel like the CPU is starting to be the limiter, but obviously the 970 is the big hold up right now.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 01:30
|
|
|
Peaceful Anarchy posted:Thanks! I'm glad I asked about the M2 because that's not what I wanted. I figured the slots would be backwards compatible (since WD SSD is B+M and the slot is M), but I guess it only works if they design it that way? Google gave me all sorts of answers, but looking at the manual for the Pro4 it seems to be only PCIe in the PCIe slot, but PCIe or SATA in the SATA slot. I don't need two M2 slots, but I do need to be able to use all 6 SATA slots so I guess that's not going to work. That was my reason for choosing that Mobo and the MSI boards are all straight out because of that. Yeah, it sounds like you've got it, though they didn't mention whether the M.2 slot also blocks the PCIe 2.0 x4 slot, since they both share bandwidth with the first PCIe 2.0 x1 slot. All the shared lanes are a result of the limited total supported PCIe lanes on the X470 chipset, and the B450 is a bit worse. I'm a little worried that a SATA M.2 drive might still disable SATA ports, but it's not obvious from what you've posted and for some reason I can't access ASUS' website right now. Worst-case scenario you could add a cheap PCIe -> SATA card (you could also do this with the Tomahawk, if you want). PCIe 2.0 x1 SATA cards won't support full-speed SATA III, but they'll be more than sufficient for spinny HDDs. poisonpill posted:Thanks, that makes sense. Right now it’s hooked up to my TV, which is technically 4K but I don’t crank up anything past 1080. Mainly I’m concerned with Assassins Creed, which chugs, and Cyberpunk 2077 next year. I do feel like the CPU is starting to be the limiter, but obviously the 970 is the big hold up right now. For AC, this un-overclocked 4690k/2060 benchmark is averaging 54 fps at low, 52 at medium, 48 on high, and 40 on ultra. Compare that to 55fps average on Ultra with a Ryzen 2600 and 2060. That might be a bit of an upgrade (and you'd probably see the same performance with a cheaper 1660 Ti) and you could probably push it more if you overclock, but you'll definitely be bottlenecking a 2080!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 02:22
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 19:31 |
|
|
SalTheBard posted:Just for shits and grins I looked at what I paid for 16 gigs of the Trident G Skill RGB RAM. 16gig kit was $224.99. That same RAM is now $114.99 Moore's law is a bitch!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2019 03:08
|
|