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BlackMK4 posted:I agree, just difficult to figure out what Toyota will share the same master cylinder piston size, booster volume, and linkage length without have it in front of me to play with. I failed at cross referencing OEM part numbers and major replacement part numbers. You could cross reference and/or google the part number, and see what you come up with.
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Jun 23, 2019 21:27
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A little late, but...The Jabberwocky posted:My wife drives a 2016 base model Subaru Forester... That looks like a shifted weave. A good shot can cause the steel belt to shift inside the tire carcass; eventually, it starts bunching up in one spot or along the inside or outside and it's out of round. Gets damned hot, too.
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Jun 24, 2019 03:42
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PainterofCrap posted:A little late, but... Jabberwockys problem sounds kinda similar to mine. Had a flat without a puncture while the car was parked, about 2 months after fitting a new tire and I took it to a shop that didn't find anything wrong with it and refitted it (without rebalancing it). Took it too a better shop that balanced all my tires properly but the problem persisted. Tire shop guy didn't see any exterior signs of the tire being bad after the puncture, but theorized that since the tire got balanced in the machine but the problem persists, something could be shifting inside while driving. I also had the car aligned. I then swapped the suspected offending tire from left back to right front, and it was fine for the first drive (only slight vibrations) and I thought it was "fine". After driving longer distances the problem is back, but is now "buffered" by the steering so the whole car doesn't shake every other second like before (now the steering wheel does it, and you can see it). It also gets worse towards the end of my drive. The tire is a now 3 month old GoodYear Efficient Grip Performance. I'm going to go back and have them take the tire off and see if they can find any damage. I guess I'm looking at replacing the tire in the end, because that amount of shaking can't be good for anything on the car.
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Jun 24, 2019 06:22
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Mercury Ballistic posted:I don't know if I should buy a replacement OEM filter housing or just stick with the aftermarket one. It's on there now, if it doesn't give you problems I wouldn't mess with it.
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Jun 24, 2019 06:30
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Then I had to call around at 8 pm on Saturday evening and found an in stock aluminum aftermarket housing at AutoZone. That's the kind of part that's either gonna work or not, it's not really stressed (unless someone goes to town on it tightening it  ). Just keep it.Since there's an aftermarket for that part, it sounds like the original may have just been too brittle to begin with.
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Jun 24, 2019 08:01
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I just bought a 1994 Isuzu Trooper with a 3.2 SOHC/5-speed. The previous owner only had a timing belt record for about 40,000 miles ago but back in 2004  Being the budget-conscious person that I am, I'm doing this myself. I'm going through it very slowly as it's my first time doing anything this intense (luckily it's not my daily). I got the timing case and the belt removed. The belt seemed quite nice for a decade and a half. Before I get to throwing on the new belt, I've got to tackle the water pump. I have a question about the gasket and making sure everything seals so that it's leak tight. When I took off the old pump, the leftover gasket was the paper type. I had a lovely time scraping that crap off with a razor (this seems to be against protocol but there was no drat way that poo poo was coming off without it and copious aluminum-safe degreaser). Now, my Gates replacement came with a gasket, but it's made of metal with some kind of thin polymer coating.  The Isuzu workshop manual doesn't specify sealants and such during installation. Some sources I've read say not to apply sealant if it's a metal type gasket. Is this true? The Gates says apply sealant to both mating surfaces "if applicable" so that's a little too vague for me. I've read the other way around saying to apply a very thin layer of silicone RTV (I have some Permatex 22071), but again, some sources say no no no to that.  I'm leaning towards just installing it dry, but I wanted to check the goon consensus on this one.
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Jun 25, 2019 01:12
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Dry. Also don't forget the thread sealer on that one bolt. And torque correctly.
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Jun 25, 2019 05:26
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C-Bangin' it 
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e: i'm dumb
Grakkus fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Jun 26, 2019 |
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Jun 25, 2019 16:49
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Where to begin....
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Jun 25, 2019 17:00
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Grakkus posted:I'm driving a car that has sat unused for 15ish years and there's a rumbling/sliding noise coming from the front when I get over 40mph like metal sliding on metal. The front wheels also get warm (not scaldingly hot or anything) after a 15min drive while the rears do not. At first I thought it was just the lovely tyres, but I've put good ones on and it's not that. Imgur's auto-linking feature is broken. You have to link to the image itself, and add your own timg tags. 
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Jun 25, 2019 17:08
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Deteriorata posted:Imgur's auto-linking feature is broken. You have to link to the image itself, and add your own timg tags. Thanks! Colostomy Bag posted:Where to begin.... It's called the stupid question thread 
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Jun 25, 2019 17:32
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Thanks again everybody who weighed in with my tire question. I got Tire Rack to shave a new one down for me, since the others were 8-9/32 and good for a fair bit more life. On a different-ish note, I have a stupid question about summer/winter tires: I live in a place that has really inconsistent seasons, especially winter, and we've seen some -10F weather mixed with 60F in the same week some winters, making it hard to draw the line between "summer tires don't work now" and "winter tires will melt". I've got a 14 FiST that I'd like to start running summer tires on, but I'm worried that buying a set of steelies and some winters will be a waste of money if I ruin the winters on that one week a winter we get freaky 60 degree weather. Is it dumb to have a set of summers and a set of all-seasons? Or should I just be happy with the reasonable* performance I get from my all-seasons and invest in something more aggressive when I start doing autocross days? *This is my daily driver and I'm not flogging it routinely. That said, I'd like to start doing some autocross and rallycross with it in the near future.
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Jun 25, 2019 18:32
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My wife's wrx came with summers and we live in the DC metro area which also has mild to very cold winter's. I bought some blizzaks and steelies and have gotten 2 winter's worth of life so far, and will probably get at least one more year out of them. That being said, the first winter I was pretty picky and swapped tires way more than I should have. This past winter I left them on and they seem to have held up fine. My wife does not corner hard much though, and only puts about 8k per year on the car. When the summers are done though, I will replace with some high performance all seasons cause she never needs to drive in the snow anyway.
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Jun 25, 2019 19:36
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Tire shaving chat: How does this work exactly? '14 IS350 F-Sport, staggered and directional wheels/tires. Tires are all fine but I know the day is going to come when I get a flat and a new tire is going to be too new compared to the tread left on the others and they're going to say I need all new tires to match. Is this a situation where I ask them to shave the new tire? What place should I go to to have that done if need be?
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Jun 25, 2019 19:59
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Shaving is usually only really necessary on AWD platforms where one wheel spinning faster than the others for an extended period can damage the drivetrain. On 2WD platforms (unless I'm reading search results wrong looks like your's is RWD?) it really isn't that big of a deal.
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Jun 25, 2019 22:01
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Geoj posted:Shaving is usually only really necessary on AWD platforms where one wheel spinning faster than the others for an extended period can damage the drivetrain. On 2WD platforms (unless I'm reading search results wrong looks like your's is RWD?) it really isn't that big of a deal. I thought it also mattered if you had 2WD with an LSD?
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Jun 26, 2019 00:25
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The Jabberwocky posted:Thanks again everybody who weighed in with my tire question. I got Tire Rack to shave a new one down for me, since the others were 8-9/32 and good for a fair bit more life. I imagine the number of +60 days is pretty low if you get down to -10F, so I would run winters in the winter, and summers in the summer. You won't ruin your winter tires at 60 degrees. Just take it easy when it's hot with snow tires and you'll be fine.
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Jun 26, 2019 01:09
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I imagine the number of +60 days is pretty low if you get down to -10F, so I would run winters in the winter, and summers in the summer. You won't ruin your winter tires at 60 degrees. Just take it easy when it's hot with snow tires and you'll be fine. This is where I'm leaning, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking some well-known AI info. Mostly just because I found this neat resource from NOAA, here's the high/low breakdown from three winter months in 2017 in my zip code:   
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Jun 26, 2019 14:07
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How much does it cost in labor to swap the core of a differential (the actual LSD, rather than the "pumpkin" as a whole) at a shop? Is this something that I should be able to do myself? Most complicated thing I've done on a car thusfar is remove and rebuild a carburetor. Car: 2010 370z base (with an open diff now) 6mt. The alternative is swapping a full used diff assembly out of a sport or nismo spec 370z, but I've heard the VLSD in those is a bit poo poo compared to a "real" differential. I'm 100% sure I could do that, looking at the process. It's opening up the diff and swapping internal parts that makes me a bit nervous, as it would be my first modification to the actual drivetrain.
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Jun 26, 2019 16:56
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Don't open the diff, is is not really a normal DIY thing for most people to swap internals. Some of the companies will do a core swap (MFactory), but otherwise it is a fair amount of labor to have a LSD installed into a housing properly -- figure ~$500.
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Jun 26, 2019 17:35
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BitBasher posted:I thought it also mattered if you had 2WD with an LSD? Yeah. I mean I don't think even an open differential will be happy about having two wildly different tire sizes on it, but anything that isn't "fully open" or "selectable locker" will have problems. In a 2WD scenario, it would only apply to the tires on the same axle. spouse posted:How much does it cost in labor to swap the core of a differential (the actual LSD, rather than the "pumpkin" as a whole) at a shop? Is this something that I should be able to do myself? Most complicated thing I've done on a car thusfar is remove and rebuild a carburetor. BlackMK4 is about right on the cost, yeah. Unless you're doing some form of a "lunchbox" style limited slip where the ring gear doesn't need to come off, you have to set the axle up and that needs a lot of time, a lot of experience, and a few specialized tools. It's something I would much rather pay for than do myself.
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Jun 26, 2019 17:58
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BlackMK4 posted:Don't open the diff, is is not really a normal DIY thing for most people to swap internals. Some of the companies will do a core swap (MFactory), but otherwise it is a fair amount of labor to have a LSD installed into a housing properly -- figure ~$500. Z1 motorsports will do it, but their labor charge is about $1100 before shipping, and that doesn't include the install into the car, or the $750 core charge. Seemed absurd and youtube videos don't make it look impossible on my car. Total cost between the new aftermarket Quaife LSD, fluids, bushings, seals, etc from Z1 is about $2700 as I priced it out, which seems like... a lot.
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Jun 26, 2019 18:04
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah. I mean I don't think even an open differential will be happy about having two wildly different tire sizes on it, but anything that isn't "fully open" or "selectable locker" will have problems. In a 2WD scenario, it would only apply to the tires on the same axle. Opening it up and swapping the internals is about $500? if so, sold 100%. The quotes I had were $1100-$1300 for labor, but that was shipping off my core to a performance shop across the country, and that's still before shipping a fuckheavy diff. edit: ringgear does need to come off, so yeah.
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Jun 26, 2019 18:05
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That seems to be roughly the going rate here in AZ for offroad shops doing locker installs. That's labor only, too.
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Jun 26, 2019 18:12
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IOwnCalculus posted:That seems to be roughly the going rate here in AZ for offroad shops doing locker installs. That's labor only, too. Naw, that's fine by me. $500 sounded about right based off internet forum time estimates for DIY. $1300 did not. I fully expect to pay $1200 for the LSD itself and another $150-200 for fluids, bushings, and bearings. Now to find a shop near Charlotte who'll do the work.
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Jun 26, 2019 18:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah. I mean I don't think even an open differential will be happy about having two wildly different tire sizes on it, but anything that isn't "fully open" or "selectable locker" will have problems. In a 2WD scenario, it would only apply to the tires on the same axle. That being said, replacing tires in pairs is a lot more appealing than replacing all four at once, which is why shaving is considered an economical option for people with AWD vehicles. Doesn't make a whole lot of sense for a 2WD platform to immediately reduce a tire's lifespan by a sizeable percentage over buying a pair unless you're running some ungodly expensive track tire.
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Jun 26, 2019 19:16
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While we’re talking about treadwear/tire shaving, I need one new tire. 205/55/R16. How many 32nds off can a new one be? I know a guy that sells used tires he buys wholesale from junkyards/tire shops, I figure that given the shoestring budget of this “project” I should probably see about getting a just plain used tire instead of a new one and shaving to match, if the treadwear is close enough. At least for another 10k miles or so, or maybe just until winter depending on how they’re looking at that point. Is there any harm mixing different brands of tire, with different tread patterns, or is grip grip? I also see people talking about getting steel wheels for winter. Is that just because they’re cheaper? It seems like times when traction is worse is when you would most need the lower unsparing weight.
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Jun 26, 2019 22:45
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22 Eargesplitten posted:While we’re talking about treadwear/tire shaving, I need one new tire. 205/55/R16. How many 32nds off can a new one be? I know a guy that sells used tires he buys wholesale from junkyards/tire shops, I figure that given the shoestring budget of this “project” I should probably see about getting a just plain used tire instead of a new one and shaving to match, if the treadwear is close enough. At least for another 10k miles or so, or maybe just until winter depending on how they’re looking at that point. What is this going on? If not AWD or something with a limited-slip its largely immaterial unless we're talking about pairing a bald tire with a new one on the same driven axle. 22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there any harm mixing different brands of tire, with different tread patterns, or is grip grip? If you must mix makes/models of tires put them in pairs on the same axle. There is a hazard though, as not all rubber compounds are equal and you could end up with more grip on one end or the other, which can result in loss of control in some situations. 22 Eargesplitten posted:I also see people talking about getting steel wheels for winter. Is that just because they’re cheaper? It seems like times when traction is worse is when you would most need the lower unsparing weight. Cheaper - so if you destroy one on a monster pothole they're less expensive to replace than an alloy wheel.
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Jun 27, 2019 00:54
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22 Eargesplitten posted:While we’re talking about treadwear/tire shaving, I need one new tire. 205/55/R16. How many 32nds off can a new one be? I know a guy that sells used tires he buys wholesale from junkyards/tire shops, I figure that given the shoestring budget of this “project” I should probably see about getting a just plain used tire instead of a new one and shaving to match, if the treadwear is close enough. At least for another 10k miles or so, or maybe just until winter depending on how they’re looking at that point. used tires is not generally a good idea
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Jun 27, 2019 02:51
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Geoj posted:What is this going on? If not AWD or something with a limited-slip its largely immaterial unless we're talking about pairing a bald tire with a new one on the same driven axle. Subaru Impreza, so everything is driven. I'll see what two tires would cost, and I definitely wouldn't be mixing summers and the all-seasons or anything. Cheaper makes sense, hadn't thought about that. I've only ever bought used rims (first from someone in the Subaru thread, then from a shop today) so I always forget how stupid loving expensive they can be. Our potholes in CO aren't really any worse in winter than the rest of the year anyway. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:used tires is not generally a good idea Why not? I mean if they have a bubble or something the guy does returns. I guess I'm around enough po' folk that I might be the only one in my social circle that hasn't bought used tires before.
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Jun 27, 2019 05:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Why not? I mean if they have a bubble or something the guy does returns. I guess I'm around enough po' folk that I might be the only one in my social circle that hasn't bought used tires before. Generally not worth it, but It Depends. You can sometimes pick up perfectly good tyres/wheels cheap when somebody buys a car and wants to put something different on it. Or you can get them from a wrecker. I tried going the wrecker route when my beater Starlet needed new rubber a year or two ago, but the tyres were *just* a bit smaller than your average Corolla/Excel/Fiesta/whatever. I spent an afternoon doing free crossfit (climbing and chucking tyres around Tyre Mountain in the corner of the warehouse and checking size/date codes) and came up empty handed... it still would have been AU$100 for all four + taking them to a shop to get them mounted and balanced. I could have gotten the slightly bigger ones but I didn't want to deal with the speedo being off. In the end I went to Bob Jane and for AU$300 got four brand new Yokohama's put on while I waited.
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Jun 27, 2019 11:42
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is there any harm mixing different brands of tire, with different tread patterns, or is grip grip? I'll do it on different axles (I have Ohtsu up front and Road Hugger in the back right now), but I absolutely will not mix tires on the same axle. I've had some really unpredictable handling from doing that in the past. But on an AWD Subaru you're asking for expensive poo poo to blow up. Buy cheap tires (i.e. Road Huggers - which are actually an older Kumho design, still made by Kumho, just sold as a Discount Tire private label) or find a complete matching set with equal tread.
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Jun 27, 2019 15:03
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Subaru Impreza, so everything is driven. I'll see what two tires would cost, and I definitely wouldn't be mixing summers and the all-seasons or anything. Cheaper makes sense, hadn't thought about that. I've only ever bought used rims (first from someone in the Subaru thread, then from a shop today) so I always forget how stupid loving expensive they can be. Our potholes in CO aren't really any worse in winter than the rest of the year anyway. it's a poor man's way to not save money - you're still going to need x miles out of a tire and there's not such a tremendous discount for used tires. on top of that, you don't really know about the condition of the tire. sure, the guy is gonna take it back if there's a bubble. what if instead of visibly failing they fail much more drastically? the risk is low but still there - not really worth it imo especially if you're putting it on an AWD car that is sensitive to tires
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Jun 27, 2019 16:32
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Geoj posted:Shaving is usually only really necessary on AWD platforms where one wheel spinning faster than the others for an extended period can damage the drivetrain. On 2WD platforms (unless I'm reading search results wrong looks like your's is RWD?) it really isn't that big of a deal. Oh I'm dumb and forgot to say it's in fact AWD. Sorry. So yeah - it's necessary right? Do most all places do shaving or do I need to go somewhere special, recommendations? I live in upstate NY.
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Jun 27, 2019 18:02
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What's a reasonable service life for a modern gas engine? It's too late to do anything about it, but it looks like my sister bought a lemon of a 2015 gas F250, and she's going to be paying for an engine replacement months after buying the truck. With good maintenance records, are modern engines tapping out before 200k miles? A first mechanic told her "compression is bad, replace engine", so I told her to get a second opinion. Second mechanic said that there was a huge compression difference between one bank of 4 cylinders and the other, and it's causing multiple misfires. It's a 2015 6.2L gas F250 with about 165k miles on it, and no she didn't compression test it before buying. Sucks to pay $15k for a truck and then another $6k for an engine.
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Jun 27, 2019 19:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:it's a poor man's way to not save money This is the core of the issue for me. Most people wouldn't immediately put new tires on a used car unless the tires were already completely worn out, so the "safety" concern is a bit overblown - but when so much of the cost is labor to put the tires on your wheels, the net savings can be pretty drat small.
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Jun 27, 2019 19:29
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the thing is, the tires are the most important safety device of a car, and some folks don't think of that, they focus more on brakes or seatbelts or airbags. But braking is limited by tire condition, and tires in poor condition or mismatched tires can cause an accident when placed under high stress such as emergency swerving, hard turns, losing grip in wet conditions, etc. Like this may be harsh but I kinda feel if you can't afford to put 4 good tires on your car, you can't afford to drive.
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Jun 27, 2019 19:37
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yamdankee posted:Oh I'm dumb and forgot to say it's in fact AWD. Sorry. So yeah - it's necessary right? Do most all places do shaving or do I need to go somewhere special, recommendations? I live in upstate NY. TireRack is the only retailer I know of off the top of my head that offers this as a service. Locally you'd likely have to find an independent or race shop, AFAIK most (all?) of the national chain service centers don't do shaving.
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Jun 27, 2019 20:47
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Great, thank you! And am I right in thinking that's the way to go to avoid paying for 4 new tires just because one needs replacing? Or am I missing something? Do people with AWD, staggered, direction tires do this?
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Jun 27, 2019 20:53
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Leperflesh posted:the thing is, the tires are the most important safety device of a car, and some folks don't think of that, they focus more on brakes or seatbelts or airbags. But braking is limited by tire condition, and tires in poor condition or mismatched tires can cause an accident when placed under high stress such as emergency swerving, hard turns, losing grip in wet conditions, etc. I tend to agree with you. Tires are the wrong place to cheap out on a car. They're the only part of the car that actually touches the road. Spend the money to get good tires. There are lots of excellent tires that don't cost that much more than the cheapos. They're worth it.
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Jun 27, 2019 21:46
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