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Dia de Pikachutos
Nov 8, 2012

Ambihelical Hexnut posted:

...print below 80mm/s ever for any reason.

This was me with my first printer. It was less about "gotta go fast" and more because I was reticent to leave my Anet A2 unattended while it was doing its thing.

That said, nearly all of the 3dp forums and groups I've looked at have at least a few people who enjoy being the super fast printer overlord because for them the tweaking (and overlording) is the major draw of the hobby. As usual, they muddy the waters for people just starting out.

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
Hey so you guys remember how I suddenly got a lot of extrusion problems with my Ender 3? Turns out I was printing the roll of ABS filament I bought for later experiments without relizing. I was printing it at 200 C with the bed at 60. Considering that ir printed amazingly well...
Anyway, explains why extrusion was too slow and such...

TIme to go back to proper PLA.

Golluk
Oct 22, 2008

SEKCobra posted:

Hey so you guys remember how I suddenly got a lot of extrusion problems with my Ender 3? Turns out I was printing the roll of ABS filament I bought for later experiments without relizing. I was printing it at 200 C with the bed at 60. Considering that ir printed amazingly well...
Anyway, explains why extrusion was too slow and such...

TIme to go back to proper PLA.

That could do it. I find the ABS I have, that while I can print 20-30c cooler, it has terrible layer adhesion.

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
This is amazing you guys, having made this mistake might have been a good thing. Going from ABS to PLA after cleaning out the head is AMAZING. Inbetween (not sure when exactly I accidentally switched to ABS) I have done the following:
Received better glass bed.
Enabled Mesh bed leveling.
Leveled using feeler gauges (huge quality of life improvement!)
Learned about babystepping.

All of these combined are sure to make the next prints sooooo nice, I'm really excited. Only downside is, that I am almost out of black PLA, which I actually need, and there's no Amazon Basics listing for it anymore.

armorer
Aug 6, 2012

I like metal.

SEKCobra posted:

This is amazing you guys, having made this mistake might have been a good thing. Going from ABS to PLA after cleaning out the head is AMAZING. Inbetween (not sure when exactly I accidentally switched to ABS) I have done the following:
Received better glass bed.
Enabled Mesh bed leveling.
Leveled using feeler gauges (huge quality of life improvement!)
Learned about babystepping.

All of these combined are sure to make the next prints sooooo nice, I'm really excited. Only downside is, that I am almost out of black PLA, which I actually need, and there's no Amazon Basics listing for it anymore.

This is awesome, but also kinda why people badmouth the ender 3 sometimes I think.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

I leveled my bed after my first two prints on my Ender 3 and haven't touched it in the 10 prints since. So far I've just put the SD card in, press print, and walked away. (well, I could've walked away...I usually watch the first layer going down)

I'm glad I didn't get a bunk printer (so far!).

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

SEKCobra posted:

This is amazing you guys, having made this mistake might have been a good thing. Going from ABS to PLA after cleaning out the head is AMAZING. Inbetween (not sure when exactly I accidentally switched to ABS) I have done the following:
Received better glass bed.
Enabled Mesh bed leveling.
Leveled using feeler gauges (huge quality of life improvement!)
Learned about babystepping.

All of these combined are sure to make the next prints sooooo nice, I'm really excited. Only downside is, that I am almost out of black PLA, which I actually need, and there's no Amazon Basics listing for it anymore.

Yep, that would definitely do it. ABS is not going to be happy about trying to extrude at 200 degrees. With experience you'll immediately recognize the characteristic feel of each filament when loading ("this isn't stiff enough for PLA") and the smell when printing (PLA is slightly sugary, ABS smells like a tire fire).

Ironically if you get the right temperature ABS extrudes way more smoothly and easily than PLA, with much less effort. It's a plastic designed expressly for extrusion and injection molding, and as a result it flows beautifully.

Another note: beware black filaments from cheap suppliers. I've heard that the black filament often has some amount of scrap filament and floor sweepings mixed in because the pigment covers it up. Not sure if that's common, but anecdotally most of the troublesome rolls I've had have been cheap black ones.

On the other hand, you can't hide anything in light colored filament, and the transparent colors have less pigment so they print more cleanly. "Natural colored" filament (generally translucent off-white) usually prints the best because there's nothing in it but the polymer.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

How's Microcenter's Inland-brand filament?

I picked up a few rolls of it when I first got my printer, and I haven't had any problems with it, but as I'm new I wouldn't know if it wasn't very good compared to something else.

cephalopods
Aug 11, 2013

Inland is a mess. Their newer formula "PLA" prints like poo poo and requires higher temperatures than most PETG. After the outrage when they switched PLA formulas, they reintroduced the old PLA as "Pro PLA+". That's the stuff that's comparable in quality to Hatchbox.
Comparable in price, too, if you buy it in-store

SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:

Sagebrush posted:

Yep, that would definitely do it. ABS is not going to be happy about trying to extrude at 200 degrees. With experience you'll immediately recognize the characteristic feel of each filament when loading ("this isn't stiff enough for PLA") and the smell when printing (PLA is slightly sugary, ABS smells like a tire fire).

Ironically if you get the right temperature ABS extrudes way more smoothly and easily than PLA, with much less effort. It's a plastic designed expressly for extrusion and injection molding, and as a result it flows beautifully.

Another note: beware black filaments from cheap suppliers. I've heard that the black filament often has some amount of scrap filament and floor sweepings mixed in because the pigment covers it up. Not sure if that's common, but anecdotally most of the troublesome rolls I've had have been cheap black ones.

On the other hand, you can't hide anything in light colored filament, and the transparent colors have less pigment so they print more cleanly. "Natural colored" filament (generally translucent off-white) usually prints the best because there's nothing in it but the polymer.

Thanks for the overview, and when I heated the hotend up to actual ABS temperatures exactly what you explained happened > I could push it through beautifully. As for colors, your advice seems solid, but for most of my actual protoyping I need black. Amazon's best rated black seems a bit sketchy, but there isn't any more legit stuff on there.
Are there any recommended suppliers/manufacturers of filament that would be available to the EU? So far I printed some expensive~ish filament from the local hobby store and Amazon Basics.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

Flashforge black pla seems okay.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

I've used a lot of very cheap PLA and usually the black and white are okay. I don't know what brands you'll find in the EU but it looks like Tianse is on amazon.de and I've had good luck with those.

Prusa is in the Czech republic and makes higher quality/pricier stuff.
https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/42-prusament

AprintaPro sponsors Ivan Miranda's youtube channel and while they're usually a little expensive there's a 50% code right now:
https://www.aprintapro.com/shop/printament-pla/

Turmoil
Jun 27, 2000

Forum Veteran


Young Urchin

armorer posted:

Yeah my ender 3 hasn't really given me any problems that weren't actually just me being dumb.

That's been the case with my Ender 3. I've had little to no trouble from it and it was printing pretty well when I first put it together.
I've modded it to all metal hot end, direct drive, auto leveling, and a 32-bit board.

Overall though it's a finicky thing. I can go days printing without issues and then the next print fails horrible and it takes me a while to tune it back to something acceptable.

I wanted something that was a bit more reliable and ended up getting a Prusa this week. I finished putting it together yesterday and so far so good.

mewse
May 2, 2006

SEKCobra posted:

Are there any recommended suppliers/manufacturers of filament that would be available to the EU? So far I printed some expensive~ish filament from the local hobby store and Amazon Basics.

Toms3d has featured das filament out of Germany a bunch of times

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

Thermopyle posted:

How's Microcenter's Inland-brand filament?
I use their Silver, Blue, and Red PLA and I think they print great at 210C with my Volcano at 8-12mm3/s. The prints are strong but the surface is very matte and almost grainy in appearance like a 400 or 600 grit sandpaper. Maybe that's what people don't like about it but I think it has a nice feel to it. You can't beat their prices either for 15 bucks a spool shipped and with reliable shipping times, but they pack their boxes in syrofoam peanuts which is a pain because now I have to recycle that separately (can't just go in the bin like paper or HDPE airbags).

AFewBricksShy
Jun 19, 2003

of a full load.



I've been trying to find a good, comprehensive guide to designing with Gcoode because I just picked up a cnc machine. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Most of what I've been able to find assumes you already have decent knowledge about it.

In the same vein, is there a good way to convert pdf files to gcode, or dwg/dxf files?

Sorry to bother you with this, but from what I can tell the code is pretty much the same so I figured someone in here would know.
Thanks.

Mofabio
May 15, 2003
(y - mx)*(1/(inf))*(PV/RT)*(2.718)*(V/I)

Thermopyle posted:

How's Microcenter's Inland-brand filament?

I picked up a few rolls of it when I first got my printer, and I haven't had any problems with it, but as I'm new I wouldn't know if it wasn't very good compared to something else.

Printed 50 of the same thing across 3 different natural ABS spools, and Inland warped the worst.

porktree
Mar 23, 2002

You just fucked with the wrong Mexican.

Thermopyle posted:

I leveled my bed after my first two prints on my Ender 3 and haven't touched it in the 10 prints since. So far I've just put the SD card in, press print, and walked away. (well, I could've walked away...I usually watch the first layer going down)

I'm glad I didn't get a bunk printer (so far!).

That's pretty much my experience with my Ender 3; I've done a 100 or more prints. I even bought a glass bed but have never put it in.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


AFewBricksShy posted:

I've been trying to find a good, comprehensive guide to designing with Gcoode because I just picked up a cnc machine. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Most of what I've been able to find assumes you already have decent knowledge about it.

In the same vein, is there a good way to convert pdf files to gcode, or dwg/dxf files?

Sorry to bother you with this, but from what I can tell the code is pretty much the same so I figured someone in here would know.
Thanks.

Check out Peter Smid's CNC programming handbook.

The metalworking thread has a lot of CNC chat too.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2905844

Taking a PDF to gcode probably isn't going to happen on a cnc. I use Fusion360 to generate G-code from solid models and it handles tool libraries and such quite well.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009
Using pdfs to generate tool paths for cnc is pretty common for lasers. Fusion can do it, don’t ask me how though. Have a look at draftsight as well.

Frozen Pizza Party
Dec 13, 2005

Filament chat: just spend the extra few bucks (if you're in the us) and order atomic, it ships free and is excellent stuff.

Parallelwoody
Apr 10, 2008


So I skimmed through the first and last couple pages and didn't see anything, is there a good beginner guide floating around that would give me an idea of what to buy and general costs to get into 3d printing?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

Parallelwoody posted:

So I skimmed through the first and last couple pages and didn't see anything, is there a good beginner guide floating around that would give me an idea of what to buy and general costs to get into 3d printing?

I, so many times, posted:

just
get
a
Prusa

Parallelwoody
Apr 10, 2008


Helpful, if a little light on details. So I shouldn't even start without about a grand to put into it?

Kibbles n Shits
Apr 8, 2006

burgerpug.png


Fun Shoe
I was about to give up on my Ender 3 until I realized the belt was too loose and after 30 seconds of tightening it, the thing prints almost flawlessly now. So much needless frustration but at least I'm finally starting to enjoy it. Get an Ender 3! edit: grammar gud

Kibbles n Shits fucked around with this message at 21:54 on Jul 19, 2019

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

erm... actually thieves should be summarily executed

Parallelwoody posted:

Helpful, if a little light on details. So I shouldn't even start without about a grand to put into it?

$750. A Prusa needs absolutely nothing beyond what comes in the box (it even comes with a full spool of filament). If you want to get something that is guaranteed to have you producing high quality parts straight away, with no foreseeable upgrades or repairs required for either additional performance or increased quality-of-life, a Prusa is what you get.

Like literally the only two upgrades I can think of that you'd even hypothetically want would be a hardened nozzle if you plan to do carbon-fiber filaments, and maybe a spare build plate if you're planning to do high production rates.

You can certainly get cheaper printers, as low as $200, but if you go that way you should be interested in (or at least not opposed to) the idea of regularly tweaking the printer and making little upgrades to improve the machine's functionality or ease of use.

Disclosure: I am a professor of industrial design so I may have a slightly higher standard of finish and expectation of reliability than the average hobbyist. I don't accept rounded-off corners or wobbly layers as "good enough for the purposes" and running a print overnight to come back and find it warped and failed is not something I'm interested in dealing with. The extra few hundred dollars up front is worth the performance and reliability to me.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jul 19, 2019

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

Parallelwoody posted:

Helpful, if a little light on details. So I shouldn't even start without about a grand to put into it?

The tradeoffs between spending $750 on a printer and $160-$200 are discussed on this page or the last.

JuffoWup
Mar 28, 2012

Sagebrush posted:

$750. A Prusa needs absolutely nothing beyond what comes in the box (it even comes with a full spool of filament). If you want to get something that is guaranteed to have you producing high quality parts straight away, with no foreseeable upgrades or repairs required for either additional performance or increased quality-of-life, a Prusa is what you get.

Like literally the only two upgrades I can think of that you'd even hypothetically want would be a hardened nozzle if you plan to do carbon-fiber filaments, and maybe a spare build plate if you're planning to do high production rates.

You can certainly get cheaper printers, as low as $200, but if you go that way you should be interested in (or at least not opposed to) the idea of regularly tweaking the printer and making little upgrades to improve the machine's functionality or ease of use.

Disclosure: I am a professor of industrial design so I may have a slightly higher standard of finish and expectation of reliability than the average hobbyist. I don't accept rounded-off corners or wobbly layers as "good enough for the purposes" and running a print overnight to come back and find it warped and failed is not something I'm interested in dealing with. The extra few hundred dollars up front is worth the performance and reliability to me.

Also, prusa tests all their power supplies, so you also know it won't burn your house down during an overnight print.

Parallelwoody
Apr 10, 2008


Got it, so this would be a higher level printer that dispenses with a lot of the problems common in less expensive models and would get me relatively hassle free results if I'm understanding correctly. Are there any recommended guides about things to look out for, cool projects, common beginner mistakes, etc?

Parallelwoody
Apr 10, 2008


Thermopyle posted:

The tradeoffs between spending $750 on a printer and $160-$200 are discussed on this page or the last.

It seemed to be mostly technical details chat and then a comparison between one specific model and the prusa. Didn't know if those were the only two recommended price levels, common problems, additional recommended upgrades, different printers for different use cases, cool projects, etc. My apologies if coming in without any real knowledge was an issue, I usually rely on the op to get up to speed on a topic.

Thermopyle
Jul 1, 2003

...the stupid are cocksure while the intelligent are full of doubt. —Bertrand Russell

Parallelwoody posted:

It seemed to be mostly technical details chat and then a comparison between one specific model and the prusa. Didn't know if those were the only two recommended price levels, common problems, additional recommended upgrades, different printers for different use cases, cool projects, etc. My apologies if coming in without any real knowledge was an issue, I usually rely on the op to get up to speed on a topic.

AFAICT, those are the main two contenders for your money...at least in this thread. There's reasons to go with other things, like, for example, if you know you need a bigger print area.


JuffoWup posted:

Also, prusa tests all their power supplies, so you also know it won't burn your house down during an overnight print.

Yeah, IMO, this is by far the best argument for a prusa over an Ender 3.

Turmoil
Jun 27, 2000

Forum Veteran


Young Urchin

Parallelwoody posted:

Got it, so this would be a higher level printer that dispenses with a lot of the problems common in less expensive models and would get me relatively hassle free results if I'm understanding correctly. Are there any recommended guides about things to look out for, cool projects, common beginner mistakes, etc?

Teaching Tech videos are pretty good.

You can start with: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fIlYRyZlnlQ

Here's one about the Ender 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rmFjIb4moSw

AgentCow007
May 20, 2004
TITLE TEXT
Maker's Muse seems to be the only channel I've found where he seems to have enough experience to justify teaching people about poo poo, even though I've never seen him once print anything useful.

Teaching Tech is pretty cool but he's kind of figuring it out as he goes along... so, for example, he'll recommend a bunch of printed upgrades and then in the next video he won't be using them anymore... so I just kind of check in occasionally and see what he's stuck with.

And then there's the YouTube recommended "Design Prototype Test" who licks his resin prints clean to cure them

AgentCow007 fucked around with this message at 23:22 on Jul 19, 2019

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


AgentCow007 posted:

Maker's Muse seems to be the only channel I've found where he seems to have enough experience to justify teaching people about poo poo.

Thomas Sanladerer knows what he's doing, and CNC Kitchen does actual experiments which is pretty great.

Zorro KingOfEngland
May 7, 2008

AgentCow007 posted:

And then there's the YouTube recommended "Design Prototype Test" who licks his resin prints clean to cure them

Holy poo poo. That has to be a joke, right?

Parallelwoody
Apr 10, 2008


Thanks for the recommendations and such, I do appreciate it. Maybe one day I'll be able to pull off a pro-maker move like lick curing my resin.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

Today I discovered that the Anycubic Photon, bare kit with no resin included, is regularly selling for $300 now. $365 with two full liters of resin straight from the Anycubic store on Aliexpress, shipped from a USA warehouse.

Someone, please, make at least a token attempt at convincing me that I shouldn't order one.

AgentCow007
May 20, 2004
TITLE TEXT

Zorro KingOfEngland posted:

Holy poo poo. That has to be a joke, right?

Yeah, he just handles the stuff with his bare hands. I was going to say he eats paste but I got carried away making it thematic.

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Parallelwoody posted:

Helpful, if a little light on details. So I shouldn't even start without about a grand to put into it?

You are going to spend as much on this hobby as you would, say, fly fishing or really cheap boating.

"You get what you pay for" super duper applies here.

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CloFan
Nov 6, 2004

Thanks for the JGaP advice when I was looking a couple years back. Super glad I don't have to futz with the stuff you guys post about bed leveling and step calculations etc

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