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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I need to make a custom route that is displayable on an ios device. Is there anything out there that lets you make gpx files in some manner of mapping software and use them on ios? I asked something similar a few days ago, but haven’t really found an ideal solution. Plotaroute.com seems to do on-road route plotting pretty well for routes with >10 waypoints (the limit in google maps desktop I think?) I’ve not yet found an iOS app that’ll navigate me through the GPX file. And even if you did manage to make a route with just google maps waypoints, google maps doesn’t give a poo poo when you copy the URL into your iOS device. It’ll just go “Oh, you want to get from A to B? How about this route?” A friend of mine sets the google maps waypoints as ‘stops’, and makes sure they’re in straight boring roads so he can tap ‘continue’ relatively safely. Honestly, if anybody at Garmin or TomTom is reading this, I would happily pay $100 for your navigation software running on my phone. Your hardware is outdated and underpowered anyway. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 21:49 on Jul 18, 2019 |
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Jul 18, 2019 21:46
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Horse Clocks posted:I asked something similar a few days ago, but haven’t really found an ideal solution. Osmand lets you import GPX files but the routing is a crapshoot (I notice even their example route on their website is a suicide mission that takes you around Victoria and Hyde Park Corner which isn't even the fastest route between those two places) and it's based on OpenStreetMap so sometimes has some interesting ideas about what constitutes a road. On the upside, being able to preload the maps in a rather more intuitive way than Google Maps lets you is definitely an advantage if you're going into areas with sketchy data coverage or if you just have a poo poo tariff and would rather download the maps on free wifi. If OSM coverage is good in the area you're in, it's worth looking at.
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Jul 18, 2019 22:04
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Osmand lets you import GPX files but the routing is a crapshoot (I notice even their example route on their website is a suicide mission that takes you around Victoria and Hyde Park Corner which isn't even the fastest route between those two places) and it's based on OpenStreetMap so sometimes has some interesting ideas about what constitutes a road. Sweet, I’ll give it a try. Until “Take me down every NSL road in my vicinity... twice” is an option, I’m not too fussed about routing, I tend to be pretty specific with the route I want to take and will set a waypoint around most junctions.
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Jul 18, 2019 23:28
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You can try Furkot, it'll let you plan a trip with as many waypoints as you want and export the file to Google Maps, it is finicky and best used with a PC and mobile phone.
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Jul 18, 2019 23:49
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Stupid question, but, brake pads aren't supposed to be... loose, right? Would that mean the pistons aren't moving? E: the pad doesn't jiggle when I apply the brakes, and the caliper's got pistons on either side of the disc Ee: this one pad's got gobs of play, the other three have little to none. Lots of clearance around the pin. Phy fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jul 19, 2019 |
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Jul 19, 2019 02:17
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Depends on what direction they are loose in; they need to be able to move with the pistons, and they aren't super tightly held in the other directions - there's a bit of play around the guide pin in my experience. They shouldn't be able to fall out or move to such a position they aren't on the disc though!
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Jul 19, 2019 02:21
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 This is the seat I pulled from my scrapped ‘76 Goldwing and I like the seating position wayyy more than the (perfect condition) cushy 2-up seat that came with my ‘78. Anyone able to ID this one so I can start sourcing material to save it? It’s about a third Gorilla tape at the moment.
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Jul 19, 2019 15:08
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I'm on the original sprockets that came with the bike (bought it brand new) it had 13.5k miles on them. I'm also thinking the mechanic that changed it out may have screwed up. On a good note, they are taking care of it since it happened so soon but I wont lie to say i'm hesitant to accept their repairs.
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Jul 19, 2019 15:13
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Well, I've had too many fixes in the last month or so where I've got worked up about what it could be, when it was actually something small and easily solved and the first thing I looked at, so this time I've ordered new pads. The ones on there were looking thin anyway. If I need to rebuild poo poo I'll find out once I've got the new pads in, and then I'll also have new pads.
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Jul 19, 2019 17:47
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Revvik posted:
Might be easiest to get it re-upholstered
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Jul 19, 2019 18:38
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Elviscat posted:You can try Furkot, it'll let you plan a trip with as many waypoints as you want and export the file to Google Maps, it is finicky and best used with a PC and mobile phone. I’ve been using Furkot for planning and Scenic on iOS for the on-bike turn by turn and have been liking it. On occasion it’ll get insistent about some turnoff, but that’s usually when I just halfass drank and drop a route.
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Jul 20, 2019 04:59
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I went for my first decent ride of the season on the GSXR. That problem I mentioned earlier with my hands going numb? Definitely not just the clutch, on the highway it was happening to both hands. Repositioning and taking weight off my hands helped momentarily but they would seize up often to the point where I couldn't really feel the levers. I'm guessing this is a nerve being pinched somewhere in my palm? Is this just an unfortunate fact of having small hands with sportbike ergonomics? Or are there gloves, or maybe grips, with gel inserts in the palms to relieve this kind of stress? It's exactly as I remember it from riding my old 400, and I'm worried that it's going to get worse now that I'm older.
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Jul 21, 2019 02:24
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Mister Speaker posted:I went for my first decent ride of the season on the GSXR. That problem I mentioned earlier with my hands going numb? Definitely not just the clutch, on the highway it was happening to both hands. Repositioning and taking weight off my hands helped momentarily but they would seize up often to the point where I couldn't really feel the levers. I'm guessing this is a nerve being pinched somewhere in my palm? Is this just an unfortunate fact of having small hands with sportbike ergonomics? Or are there gloves, or maybe grips, with gel inserts in the palms to relieve this kind of stress? It's exactly as I remember it from riding my old 400, and I'm worried that it's going to get worse now that I'm older. You should be putting zero weight on your clip ons at all times. Even mid corner at maximum lean. Prop an arm on your tank or your hsnd on your knee if you need to rest. The only reason you're touching the bar is for input and lever manipulation. That will solve some, if not all of your problem. The other issue is i4s are very vib-y. This can cause your hands to feel numb after long periods for some riders. Softer grips can help, but it's the nature of the engine and the high rpms and somewhat unavoidable. If I had to guess, you're unconsciously still holding yourself up with your wrists. It's bad riding form to do so.
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Jul 21, 2019 04:56
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Fattening up and softening the grips by putting tennis racquet handle tape on them helped a lot with that for me. Both because it damped the vibes down and because the grips being thicker made it easier to not clench up.
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Jul 21, 2019 08:24
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Are your gloves too tight? Putting fat bars with weights and pillow top grips made my big single much more tolerable on highways. Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jul 21, 2019 |
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Jul 21, 2019 14:50
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General question: what does it feel like when you move pegs back and up, eg more aggressive riding stance? Right now, when I try to put weight on my feet while I ride, it feels a little weird, kinda like my feet are too far forward and I feel my knees get strained. But I'm not sure if it's my stance being weird/bad or just the fact that I am short and the pegs on the CBR300R being kind of low, or if it's just me being an idiot and riding a sport bike on the highway for 2.5 hours in a row. I'm 5'6" so even by Japanese test rider standards I'm on the short side, so I was wondering if peg offsets would help me put my weight on the pegs more comfortably.
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Jul 21, 2019 21:14
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Afaik your knees and ankles should be roughly at a 90° angles with the balls of your feet on the pegs and your knees dug into the tank cutouts. Before modifying the bike I'd make sure your form is correct first: no weight on the bars, elbows bent arms loose, back straight, legs and core holding you up so you aren't dryhumping the tank. Having said that, a cbr300 isn't even close to sportbike ergos and I (lanky 6 feet) find them super relaxed and roomy so you might just be a stumpy bastard. By comparison a cbr600 gives me burning old man knees after ten minutes and I feel like a bear on a unicycle. Moving the pegs up will have the added effect of putting your weight further forward, making it harder to keep off the bars and changing the bike's handling (probably for the better).
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Jul 21, 2019 22:21
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How do I buy handlebars? I think I'd like something a bit narrower with more sweep and maybe a touch of lift, but how do I go from sitting on my bike floating my hands in front of me like "this is where I'd like the controls to be" to actually buying something that matches that?
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Jul 22, 2019 11:02
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You could plonk a new set on top of the steering column while they're still in the packaging and see if they feel right before going to the effort of moving all the switchgear over, then send them back if you don't like them. 24mx is a decent (UK) vendor for handlebars and have a good returns policy. They have a really wide selection and sell conversion brackets. Wouldn't necessarily recommend going narrower, tends to make handling worse and less comfortable generally.
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Jul 22, 2019 12:10
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PO put a 150 rear tire on my Ninja 250. I need to replace it. Other than "omg beefy", which I don't care about at all, is there any reason to put a larger profile tire on the back? If not I'll go back to stock 130.
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Jul 22, 2019 13:35
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Martytoof posted:PO put a 150 rear tire on my Ninja 250. I need to replace it. Other than "omg beefy", which I don't care about at all, is there any reason to put a larger profile tire on the back? If not I'll go back to stock 130. 130 is all you need for a 250. It’ll probably even handle better with a 130 rear paired to a 110 or 100 front.
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Jul 22, 2019 14:16
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That's my thought. I have these in my basket, going to pull the trigger tonight once I inspect my front tire https://fortnine.ca/en/michelin-pilot-street-front-tire 110/70-17 54S https://fortnine.ca/en/michelin-pilot-street-rear-tire 130/70-17 62S
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Jul 22, 2019 14:42
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Renaissance Robot posted:How do I buy handlebars? Bars usually have dimensions measured from fixed points that can help give an idea of shape and size, you may have to dig to find these numbers but they definitely exist.
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Jul 22, 2019 20:16
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I ended up buying the radial version of the tires I posted above. Quick question though, the tires are listed as TL/TT which makes no sense. I presume they're tubeless but the order says: Michelin Pilot Street Radial Rear Tire Tire Size 130/70R17 TL/TT So like.. what's the story here? Do I have the option of running it either way, or.. ?
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Jul 23, 2019 00:28
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Yup, you can run a tube in whatever tire you like, makes no difference.
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Jul 23, 2019 03:00
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Speaking of, I need a new tire on my FZ, I've gotten pretty proficient at doing dirt bike tires, how much harder is a tubeless radial?
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Jul 23, 2019 06:41
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Phy posted:Stupid question, but, brake pads aren't supposed to be... loose, right? Would that mean the pistons aren't moving? OK, I may just be the victim of a weird brake design on the Rex here. I got new pads in, so I pulled out the old ones. The old pads still had a lot of depth left, and they didn't look very different from the fresh ones aside from a gentle coating of brake dust. So far on every disc brake I've touched, you pull the caliper off the disc and wiggle the pads out. On the Rex, there's a gently springy backing plate on the outside circumference of the caliper. Take that off, then take a single pin out, and the pads pull right out the back. Clearly the designers at the time prioritized quick pad changes. But, since all that keeps the pad in place is a single pin, any clearance of the pad's locating hole around said pin will result in a pad you can clunk around with your bare fingers. Unless the backing plate is supposed to be more strongly springy than it is on mine, or the pin is significantly worn down. Slavvy, does that sound about right to you?
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Jul 23, 2019 06:49
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That's about right and pretty much what makes those so mediocre despite the impressive size and theoretical power. Nothing stops that one big pad from pivoting on the center pin and piston, the spring plates (iirc little hex bolts hold em?) just stop the pads squealing and rattling.
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Jul 23, 2019 07:05
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Elviscat posted:Speaking of, I need a new tire on my FZ, I've gotten pretty proficient at doing dirt bike tires, how much harder is a tubeless radial? Not very, you'll be fine. It's perhaps easier not to worry about that drat tube. Breaking the bead can be a bit of a hassle, but I assume you have a good selection of tools, tricks and google.
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Jul 23, 2019 07:25
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I'm weighing my options for mounting tires myself vs dragging the wheels and tires to a shop to have them put on. The actual work to remove and put on the tires seems easy enough, I've done it on my bicycle so I know the basic concepts only obviously haven't applied them to a much thicker and beefier tire. Only thought is that I don't have the means to inflate or balance the tires myself after the fact so I'd have to take them to the gas station to pump full of air anyway, then take to a shop to balance, or just take them to the shop to inflate and balance. Not sure it's worth the hassle to save what will probably amount to a few minutes in labour costs for a professional to just do the whole job for me. Unless there's a super easy/cheap way to balance at home without buying any equipment. e: Holy smokes my 130 tire looks so thin compared to the 160 monstrosity on my bike right now 
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Jul 25, 2019 12:38
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Martytoof posted:Unless there's a super easy/cheap way to balance at home without buying any equipment. Depends how much stuff you've got lying around; technically all you need to balance a wheel is a level spindle/axle, which you can get by propping up a shaft with a couple of bits of wood. Bearing in mind you'd still need to buy wheel weights to stick on to actually do the balancing.
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Jul 25, 2019 12:56
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I balanced a pair of Ninja 250 wheels by resting them on the armrests of a pair of chairs. All you really need is some sort of surface you can rest the axle on that’s level and allows the wheel to rotate freely.
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Jul 25, 2019 13:09
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Hmm. I might try myself then. Granted I'll need to buy the weights but I just YouTubed it and it does look fairly straightforward.
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Jul 25, 2019 13:48
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Martytoof posted:Hmm. I might try myself then. Granted I'll need to buy the weights but I just YouTubed it and it does look fairly straightforward. I've done static balance using just the axle. Found out the heavy spot was on an old weight, removed that, then it was good. No problems at any speed. The one time I got one changed, the tire guy added loads of weights but forgot to align the red spot with the valve... Anyway, if you don't have a compressor, I suggest getting it changed professionally. It's a huge pain to get it seated without loads of pressure and volume and the price diff of a complete vs a partial is not that big.
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Jul 25, 2019 13:55
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You really do need a compressor to seat the bead, yeah. Personally, if I couldn't get a compressor, I'd just walk it over to a gas station or something and use the parking lot compressor there instead of paying someone. Once the bead is seated you can just pump it up with a bicycle pump, works fine.
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Jul 25, 2019 14:00
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What kind of pressure are we talking for bead seating? If it's not more than a couple hundred psi then a fairly small 12v compressor should be adequate right?
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Jul 25, 2019 14:08
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Don't do it yourself if you are asking these questions. Mounting a tire is one of the few things I gladly pay someone to do because it's hell on Earth without the right equipment. With the right equipment it's merely a huge pain.
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Jul 25, 2019 14:41
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What I forgot to specify is that gas station pumps usually won't work, at least the ones they have here where you set the desired pressure first, then it gradually pumps it up automatically. 12 volts can work, even bicycle pumps can work. But part of the problem, apart from fiddling with a 12v source, draining your battery etc, is that it isn't always straight forward why it's not seating. Sometimes it just won't take pressure unless you spray liberally with soap and squeeze it just so while dumping air into it. Owning a compressor - guaranteed ok. Getting it done by someone else - guaranteed ok. Anything else - maybe a pain in the rear end, maybe ok. You can get quite decent compact compressors these days, but definitely go with something mains powered with a tank. A 12v is basically a glorified beach ball inflater. It can do high pressures, but at teeny tiny volumes and glacial pace, you might have to pause and wait for it to cool down etc etc.
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Jul 25, 2019 14:44
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I was mostly just curios, I'm happy to continue paying to have my tyres done based on my experience of bicycle tyres being a massive bitch, and the fact that the last time I had the rubber on my kawasaki changed it took two professionals several attempts to get the front bead seated, and if they're struggling gently caress knows how I'd manage.
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Jul 25, 2019 15:03
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All good points. I'm swinging back to paying someone to do it for me just to avoid the pressure bead seating thing. This is why I ask before I try 
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Jul 25, 2019 15:49
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