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Razzled posted:i dont really understand, are you expecting the rear wheel to free spin like the front? how would that ever work with a chain attached The rear wheel on gf's ybr125 spins for days in neutral  Slavvy posted:Wrt chain adjustment: go for a ride on a flat level road and take your hands off the bars, you'll know instantly if you hosed up. Thanks for this, turns out it was fine and I was overthinking it. If it is off centre it's close enough to make no difference, the bike runs perfectly straight without my assistance. Also after cleaning the chain and running to work with the oiler turned way up, the wheel seems to be spinning a bit more freely, so I'm going to go ahead and blame a stiff chain (there are a couple stiff but not stuck links) and quit worrying about it for now.
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Aug 6, 2019 08:50
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Renaissance Robot posted:The rear wheel on gf's ybr125 spins for days in neutral Maybe your bike has an o-ring chain and hers doesn't?
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Aug 6, 2019 10:40
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That'd probably do it huh
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Aug 6, 2019 11:13
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Is there anything dangerous about not preforming valve clearance check/adjustment at specified intervals, or is it just going to affect performance? Judging by how the PO “took care” of the bike, and given that it’s a 250 beater ninja I doubt this has ever had valve clearances checked. I took a look at the process on YouTube and it’s a little advanced for me right now, but if it’s one of those “well how much do you like fiery engine death?” situations then I am ok taking it in to have someone do it. Just seems like it’ll be kind of pricey off the bat. E: I don’t want to sound like I’m willingly ready to avoid proper maintenance, but if the bike has (probably) gone 2011-2019 without a valve clearance check then I presume whatever damage was going to be done is already done. If it’s something that can wait until I have extreme downtime in the winter then it sounds like a good winter garage project where I can afford to have the bike out of service for a long time while I figure out wtf I’m doing. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:10 on Aug 6, 2019 |
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Aug 6, 2019 13:07
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iirc the Ninja 250 engine is one that tends to actually need adjustment at the specified interval, if you let it go to long it can and will smash the valves into the valve seat doing severe damage to the engine.
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Aug 6, 2019 14:30
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Martytoof posted:Is there anything dangerous about not preforming valve clearance check/adjustment at specified intervals, or is it just going to affect performance? Doing the valve clearances while refurbing my ninja 250 was both the #1 most painful job but also #1 most beneficial to get the engine running nicely (aside from carb fuckery). I ended up ordering the special OEM tool because it was very painful doing it with a deep socket and small flat blade screwdriver. Princess auto sells "tappet wrenches" that theoretically would work on the n250 engine but don't (correct socket size, too fat to fit down in the valve bay). I bought them and returned them.
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Aug 6, 2019 16:17
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FYI Martytoof has a 2011 ninjette, which uses buckets and shims rather than screw adjusters like the old ninja. The process of getting to them, from a quick google, looks massively more painful than on an older 250R.
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Aug 6, 2019 16:59
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Yeah, unfortunately I need to pull the cams, basically tear the whole thing apart. I think I will just take the gamble and do it this winter, unless I find a week where I want to have the bike apart.
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Aug 6, 2019 17:11
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Any idea why my bike would have two reg/rectifiers? I had an electrical fault a couple of years ago on my batteryless bike. I eventually replaced the reg/rec under the seat which fixed the issue. I've replaced the lighting a few times, usually when adding the windshield for longer trips, and today when I was doing that job I finally googled the serial number of a mystery part of the electrical harness that sits in front of the handlebars. Sure enough, it's another reg/rec. What's it doing there?
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Aug 8, 2019 18:50
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If the bike has no battery, it's possible that one of them is for the ignition (assuming it's just a kick-start with proper coils and stuff, not magneto-driven) and the other is for the lights, and they kept the systems independent so that the lamps don't draw power from the ignition and make it hard to start or something. Or just some other reason that you'd want to keep the systems split, but one for ignition and the other for lighting/etc is my guess. Do you have a wiring diagram?
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Aug 8, 2019 20:12
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It's an EU xr650r. Can't find a schematic for the harness but I did find this on advrider (comment on an expired jpg of the schematic) - "one regulator is AC one is DC, the DC one uses a capacitor (condenser) to filter the DC instead of a battery. No E-Start no need for a battery unless you live somewhere that requires the lights to function while the bike isn't running." Interesting. I replaced the underseat reg with a electrosport reg/rec and now I think about it I the replaced the lights with LEDs only after that change; they were traditional lamps before that would always vibrate to death after a few hundred miles. The second regulator is possibly now superfluous but maybe just adds more protection. Edit: I lied here it is. 
Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 21:34 on Aug 8, 2019 |
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Aug 8, 2019 21:20
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I think the AC regulator is for moped style electricals which have a separate un-rectified lighting coil in the stator just for the headlight and also maybe tail light. Multiple lighting circuits, one AC and one DC. Why? I don't know, there are such things as AC horns and blinker relays so the entire thing could just be on the headlight coil.
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Aug 10, 2019 05:04
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I accidentally/forgetfully put 87 in my 2013 Sportster, whose service manual recommends 91 due to its higher compression motor. So I understand this means the engine might “knock” or “ping” because the fuel is igniting prematurely (due to compression instead of later when the spark fires). I realized this halfway home and listened intently (for about 30 minutes, enough to get up to operating temp) but didn’t hear the engine making any different/strange noises. So either it’s knocking and I don’t hear it, or it’s not knocking. I believe in sticking to what the service manual recommends, so I’ll be going back to 91, but is using lower octane fuel with a higher compression engine actually bad, when it knocks? Or no big deal? epswing fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Aug 14, 2019 |
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Aug 14, 2019 03:00
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Lol you’re fine
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Aug 14, 2019 04:05
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epalm posted:I accidentally/forgetfully put 87 in my 2013 Sportster, whose service manual recommends 91 due to its higher compression motor. So I understand this means the engine might “knock” or “ping” because the fuel is igniting prematurely (due to compression instead of later when the spark fires). It's normally extremely bad but won't present itself unless you're WOT going for broke, or trying to use large throttle openings at very low rpm, or the engine is super insanely hot like from traffic. In practice you have a sportster, they do not give a gently caress, you'll be fine. It's high compression by air cooled harley standards but really relaxed in absolute terms.
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Aug 14, 2019 04:33
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Ive been riding The 2010 Dyna super Glide with 96 cid engine for a while now, but lately ive felt it has been more shakey at idle than before, when i get some speed it disappears, its only when im stopped. Am i being hypersensitive because i need to return it to my dad finally, or have i caused it somehow? Checking superficially, i cant find anything missing or loose. The only thing ive done was replace the front exhaust flange nuts because they fell off lol
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Aug 14, 2019 14:12
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Patrocclesiastes posted:Ive been riding The 2010 Dyna super Glide with 96 cid engine for a while now, but lately ive felt it has been more shakey at idle than before, when i get some speed it disappears, its only when im stopped. Am i being hypersensitive because i need to return it to my dad finally, or have i caused it somehow? Checking superficially, i cant find anything missing or loose. The only thing ive done was replace the front exhaust flange nuts because they fell off lol Either it is nothing and entirely in your head and you're just noticing all the weird poo poo Harleys do now that you've acclimated to the bike, or it's doing the scheduled twincam chain tensioner disintegration procedure in which case stop riding it immediately so you don't destroy the cams. Give it back to your dad and see what he says I guess?
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Aug 14, 2019 20:17
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Slavvy posted:Either it is nothing and entirely in your head and you're just noticing all the weird poo poo Harleys do now that you've acclimated to the bike, or it's doing the scheduled twincam chain tensioner disintegration procedure in which case stop riding it immediately so you don't destroy the cams. Thanks, thats my plan really too, I hope its not going to disintegrate since it only had about 10k miles on the odo when my dad bought it and ive put only 5k more on it. After posting that, I refilled it from about half a tank and it shook way less at idle. Shouldnt that tensioner issue appear in all revs?
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Aug 15, 2019 04:23
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It's a crapshoot, the little tensioner paddles can break in a bunch of different lines. Honestly sounds like you got some bad gas or something
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Aug 15, 2019 04:28
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I hope so, ill keep an eye on it, and return it saturday, or earlier if more issues crop up. Thanks!
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Aug 15, 2019 06:10
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My '11 ex250 has some "impressive" afterfiring on throttle roll-off. I gather this could be either the bike running lean or a leak in the exhaust system. Not seeing any obvious leaks between the headers and the exhaust I guess I'm looking at lean condition. I'm going to swap the spark plugs this week once my socket tool gets in from amazon so that may shed some light on the situation. I guess my question is that if it is a lean condition, would I be able to verify by increasing choke? If I engage some choke and then try revving up and rolling off, should I expect that the afterfiring would decrease/stop? Just kind of at a loss for how else to diagnose until I pull plugs, and if those are inconclusive then I'm like
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Aug 19, 2019 14:42
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Martytoof posted:My '11 ex250 has some "impressive" afterfiring on throttle roll-off. I gather this could be either the bike running lean or a leak in the exhaust system. Not seeing any obvious leaks between the headers and the exhaust I guess I'm looking at lean condition. I'm going to swap the spark plugs this week once my socket tool gets in from amazon so that may shed some light on the situation. Sometimes the choke trick works yeah but it depends on the jetting, choke design etc so isn't a reliable way of enriching. A quick and easy way to verify if your pilot circuits are rich/lean: Get the engine to normal operating temperature, let it idle for thirty seconds, then give it a short sharp blip of the throttle so it spins up to a good 5-6000rpm. After you shut the throttle, pay attention to the sound and speed of the engine. If it... ...slowly returns to idle, or idles high for a bit before eventually coming down to normal idle, you're running lean. ...plunges down 'through' the idle to a lower rpm and gradually chugs it's way back up to normal, or even stalls, you're running rich. The spark plugs won't tell you much unless you do a plug chop as they only snapshot the last 30 ish seconds of running. If you can hit the kill switch mid-issue then take a plug out before restarting the bike it'll tell you something.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:21
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I’ll give that a shot tomorrow, thanks. My recollection is that it’s the former and it takes a second to come down, but I’m just going off memory. I should figure out how to pull the carbs to inspect/clean but it seems so involved with the airbox on the ninja.
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Aug 19, 2019 20:51
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Martytoof posted:I’ll give that a shot tomorrow, thanks. My recollection is that it’s the former and it takes a second to come down, but I’m just going off memory. You don't really need to unless they're clogged. If it is running lean, check the pilot screws first. If they're in a normal sort of range, try setting them super rich like 3.5 turns out (write down what the original settings were first!) and see what it does, the aim being to try and make it super rich. If something is actually clogged this won't work, but if it works you'll know the problem is just a pilot setting/carb balance/air intake issue.
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Aug 19, 2019 21:01
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Define "impressive afterfiring?" It's extremely common for carbureted motorcycles to pop and burble when overrunning on a closed throttle. My Hawk sounds like a popcorn popper when I'm going down a big hill. It doesn't necessarily mean anything is wrong. If your PO didn't gently caress with the carburetors it's highly unlikely that they need to be messed with; just enjoy the burbling and popping as part of the experience. For the record, it happens because the carburetor never fully shuts off fuel with a closed throttle (unlike a fuel injection system, where the injectors simply don't turn on), so as air continues to pump into the engine it continues to carry in fuel, but the AFR is too high to ignite the mixture in the cylinder. So it pumps back out the exhaust valve and builds up in the exhaust until it's at the right ratio and then it goes off. You can also use this phenomenon to play tricks on people by shutting off your carbed bike's ignition for a few seconds with the throttle open, then flipping it back on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlXVCVMr_pk this is a good way to eject your muffler core or peel your pipe open like a banana though so don't do it too much
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Aug 19, 2019 21:16
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I’ll take some video today if I can remember. It’s pretty pronounced though, much more than any 250 I’ve seen on YouTube so far. But maybe I’m just not watching the right videos. As far as the carbs, there’s an equally good chance the PO has never touched them in their life, or he’s replaced the jets with old McDonalds drink straws — it’s literally a 50/50 with the stuff I’ve seen done to the bike so far. The carb thing would just be good to know how to service because I’m HOPING he’s never touched them, which means they’re probably due for a good clean by now. Either way, I’m going to just run it as is until it gets too annoying or I have some time on my hands this winter.
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Aug 19, 2019 21:22
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Is sensitivity toward headshake a supermoto thing? On my DR650SM, a quick wobble of the bars using both hands sets up a low-amplitude, moderate-frequency wobble that feels like it could grow to an unmanageable amplitude pretty quickly. Like if I were to flick one side of the bars with hands off, it would just snowball into a violent tankslapper in a few seconds. There's otherwise no problem with handling, it'll cruise with hands off smoothly, turns and swerves easily, recovers from said turns and swerves easily. Tires are newish Shinko 705s, wearing evenly, wheels are 17" Excel Takasagos, true and balanced, no warps. No thumping or notchiness in the head bearing. My XJ600 and DR350 never did this, or at least not so pronounced. It's a little habit I developed for unknown reasons, other than amusement I guess. In my imagination, it momentarily lets me feel the weight of the bike at whatever speed. But I recall those bikes feeling like they wanted to recover from the little induced wobble pretty quickly. So question 2, if it is just a supermoto thing from the decreased rake/trail, will a steering damper solve it? I'm not especially concerned about it, but it is nice to confidently take both hands off the bars occasionally or cruise one-handed without the fear that a rock or groove in the pavement will set up a shake from which I can't recover.
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Aug 19, 2019 21:45
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Is sensitivity toward headshake a supermoto thing? On my DR650SM, a quick wobble of the bars using both hands sets up a low-amplitude, moderate-frequency wobble that feels like it could grow to an unmanageable amplitude pretty quickly. Like if I were to flick one side of the bars with hands off, it would just snowball into a violent tankslapper in a few seconds. There's otherwise no problem with handling, it'll cruise with hands off smoothly, turns and swerves easily, recovers from said turns and swerves easily. Tires are newish Shinko 705s, wearing evenly, wheels are 17" Excel Takasagos, true and balanced, no warps. No thumping or notchiness in the head bearing. It's a thing on anything with a high COG compared to it's wheelbase and steep geometry. A steering damper isn't the right way, try changing where you sit on the bike or reducing rear preload to make it a bit less steep. If it doesn't recover from a wobble in a few seconds, and the bike is mechanically mint like you say, your problem is in the setup. FWIW my 50cc has a continuous terrifying shake if you take your hands off the bars but it's completely undetectable otherwise.
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Aug 19, 2019 22:35
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My Wee develops an alarming headshake with both hands off the bars, if it's above 50 kph, and if I've got extra weight on the rear like bags full of camping gear. Take any one of those away and the shake goes away, including slowing down cause nobody's holding the throttle. It also gets more shake-prone at speeds above 130 kph. (The Rex is rock solid well above that.)
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Aug 19, 2019 22:40
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Please, someone reassure me that buying a 1994 BMW R1100RS with 8k miles on it ("driven frequently but short trips to work") is a good idea. I've read two articles that advise against doing just that... mainly sitting rubber and oil do wonders to loving up mechanics. Edit: My alternative is to pay the same price for another R1100RS that has 80k miles but has been owned by a former Triumph/BMW mechanic. DevCore fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Aug 22, 2019 |
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Aug 22, 2019 18:13
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That's how I bought my KLR and a Ninja 250. They'd both been sitting for many many years. You either spend a couple weekends rebuilding everything with rubber or liquid in it or you spend the first year of ownership watching those parts fail. If you do all your own work, it's not so bad. If you're going to pay a shop to take care of everything, it'll probably be more money than it's worth.
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Aug 22, 2019 18:18
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DevCore posted:Please, someone reassure me that buying a 1994 BMW R1100RS with 8k miles on it ("driven frequently but short trips to work") is a good idea. You're asking whether it's a better idea to have a bear give you a root canal, or alternatively, get it done by an older, well trained bear. Can you work on your own bike and have prior BMW wrenching experience? If not, buy a Japanese bike with less mileage for less money.
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Aug 22, 2019 19:41
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That's an awesome analogy.
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Aug 22, 2019 20:20
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Slavvy posted:You're asking whether it's a better idea to have a bear give you a root canal, or alternatively, get it done by an older, well trained bear. Hahaha!
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Aug 22, 2019 20:33
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Got out the old Honda trail this weekend to teach junior how to ride motorcycles. The thing has a date stamp of the 60's and he was having a blast until grandpa utters his famous words. "That thing is 50 years old and we have never had a problem with it!" Ten minutes later the trans locks up but not the motor. Junior yells it won't go. Rear tire is locked and my investigation yields that it's at the counter shaft as the rear wheel can be moved back and forth but the counter shaft sprocket is froze. The gear selector moves up but I can get it to move down. Basic reading has told me to take off the right side motor plate and investigate. Any ideas of shat I should look for?
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Aug 26, 2019 06:05
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stgdz posted:Got out the old Honda trail this weekend to teach junior how to ride motorcycles. The thing has a date stamp of the 60's and he was having a blast until grandpa utters his famous words. Assuming it's auto clutch, there should be two clutches. One is a centrifugal type on the end of the crank, the other is a normal multiplate type connected to a throw-out plate mounted in the rh cover; when the gear lever moves, the balls are forced up the ramps on the plate and push the clutch open. This stuff is fiddly and difficult to reassemble, be careful. IMO you'll find it has a collapsed bearing in the gearbox, or a problem with the shift drum/linkage. Either way it's trying to be in more than one gear at a time, or something is physically jamming the gear shafts. If nothing obvious jumps out try turning the wheel by hand while shifting through the gears and watch what moves/doesn't.
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Aug 26, 2019 07:46
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Slavvy posted:Assuming it's auto clutch, there should be two clutches. One is a centrifugal type on the end of the crank, the other is a normal multiplate type connected to a throw-out plate mounted in the rh cover; when the gear lever moves, the balls are forced up the ramps on the plate and push the clutch open. This stuff is fiddly and difficult to reassemble, be careful. How do I remove the side plate without stuff falling in? Are their components attached tot he side plate or can stuff be pulled out when the side plate is removed?
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Aug 26, 2019 16:08
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stgdz posted:How do I remove the side plate without stuff falling in? Are their components attached tot he side plate or can stuff be pulled out when the side plate is removed? The throw out plate is attached to the side cover, the little balls just sort of float in there. The taking apart is the easy bit, just pull the side cover off and keep track of what falls out, it's the putting together that sucks. Probably the easiest way is to lay the bike on its side before disassembly so you can just put the balls where they go and drop the cover on top. I've also successfully used thick grease to hold everything in place in the past.
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Aug 26, 2019 19:43
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Are fork seals somewhat universal? Or should I just sack up and order actual Honda parts?
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Aug 27, 2019 01:39
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They are somewhat universal but I tend to prefer buying name brand suspension, braking, and drivetrain components. You might save a few bucks buying generics, or your suspension might not seal exactly right and now you've got a big ol pile of poo poo to deal with
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Aug 27, 2019 01:44
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