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I thought I did ask here? Well it's fixed and I'm kind of over doing my own repairs these days anyways.
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Aug 9, 2019 03:53
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Dumb question incoming: I put off replacing my battery this past winter but will definitely need to deal with it before this next one. This is for a 2014 Mazda3 with the original battery. My question is: If I install the battery myself without some sort of device to maintain power during the process will the car's stereo or other electronics do anything stupid like disable themselves as an anti-theft mechanism? I remember this was a big deal with some cars like 10 years ago and some dealerships made mints off of DIY people having to come in to get the stereos reactivated.
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Aug 9, 2019 20:02
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Fabulousity posted:Dumb question incoming: I put off replacing my battery this past winter but will definitely need to deal with it before this next one. This is for a 2014 Mazda3 with the original battery. My question is: If I install the battery myself without some sort of device to maintain power during the process will the car's stereo or other electronics do anything stupid like disable themselves as an anti-theft mechanism? I remember this was a big deal with some cars like 10 years ago and some dealerships made mints off of DIY people having to come in to get the stereos reactivated. Nah. You'll at worst just lose your radio presets and have to reset the clock. Your trip odometers may/may not reset.
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Aug 9, 2019 20:15
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Fabulousity posted:Dumb question incoming: I put off replacing my battery this past winter but will definitely need to deal with it before this next one. This is for a 2014 Mazda3 with the original battery. My question is: If I install the battery myself without some sort of device to maintain power during the process will the car's stereo or other electronics do anything stupid like disable themselves as an anti-theft mechanism? I remember this was a big deal with some cars like 10 years ago and some dealerships made mints off of DIY people having to come in to get the stereos reactivated. I replaced mine in my 2014 3 and everything was fine, lost no settings or anything. I didn't get a deep cycle battery so mine will probably not last as long as it should since I have that eLoop capacitor thingy.
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Aug 9, 2019 20:57
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Alighieri posted:I didn't get a deep cycle battery so mine will probably not last as long as it should since I have that eLoop capacitor thingy. Deep cycle? Nah, get an AGM one that you can take with you from car to car:  https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/redtop-starting-battery/35I was originally posting that in jest but now that I look around conventional 26R batteries are only $60 less. Batteries really went up in the price over the last 6 or 7 years.
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Aug 10, 2019 02:22
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I had an optima red top in my Galant. It was from a junkyard and almost a decade old by the time I sold that car for pennies. Started every time even after having sat for a month in mid August. Great batteries, I hope they make one for the Mazda 2 because I don't trust the lovely noname brand one in there now. I kinda wish I'd kept it for a backup jump pack. Edit: oh hey looks like that one you linked will. Sweet. MC Hawking fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Aug 10, 2019 |
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Aug 10, 2019 19:00
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Alighieri posted:I replaced mine in my 2014 3 and everything was fine, lost no settings or anything. I didn't get a deep cycle battery so mine will probably not last as long as it should since I have that eLoop capacitor thingy. Does the ieLoop do anything really? I was curious about that. They only put it on the GT, IIRC.
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Aug 10, 2019 19:09
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Charles posted:Does the ieLoop do anything really? I was curious about that. They only put it on the GT, IIRC. I have it on mine and it threw a code within the first two weeks of owning the car. Other than that never noticed it. Supposedly it implements regenerative braking that feeds into a 25V capacitor that can feed the car's electrical systems in lieu of the alternator after stepping down to 12V. It's not a bad idea on paper but I guess Mazda threw it out with the fourth generation 3? Also the capacitor is a shock hazard in vehicles with front end damage.  On further research apparently if your Mazda has this system it needs a magic unicorn "Q85" battery, however people have apparently plopped in AGM batteries without issues. I guess I'm going red top. Edit: What the gently caress? On this Q85 thing: quote:Even though the battery is 12 volt, it is specifically designed for use with the i-ELOOP system. It's designated as a Q85 type battery, and is currently only available through Mazda. When replacing an i-ELOOP equipped vehicle's battery, be sure to install the correct Q85 type battery. Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 21:30 on Aug 10, 2019 |
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Aug 10, 2019 21:24
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Charles posted:Does the ieLoop do anything really? I was curious about that. They only put it on the GT, IIRC. It adds a neat application menu that shows arrows going from your brakes to a huge battery pack under the car when you brake (which as noted above its just a small capacitor strapped into the front of the car). Other then that never noticed much, it's supposed to add 1-3MPG IIRC, it just came standard on the 3 GT Sport hatchback I bought. I'll probably get the red top optima next time I change batteries. The dealer wanted somewhere around 400-500 for the Q85 plus service to replace it.
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Aug 12, 2019 17:56
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Went on a week-long vacation and my '13 MS3 has had a rough noise that's proportional in frequency to wheel rotation and louder when breaking. I can't see anything out of the ordinary with the breaks or rotors and I've tried pumping the breaks and e-break and I'm still getting the noise. It definitely rained while I was gone, if that matters. Is this just something that'll sort itself out after regular use again?
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Aug 22, 2019 14:45
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Like a grinding or a rattling?
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Aug 22, 2019 15:26
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Aexo posted:Went on a week-long vacation and my '13 MS3 has had a rough noise that's proportional in frequency to wheel rotation and louder when breaking. I can't see anything out of the ordinary with the breaks or rotors and I've tried pumping the breaks and e-break and I'm still getting the noise. It definitely rained while I was gone, if that matters. Is this just something that'll sort itself out after regular use again? Sounds like a wheel bearing starting to fail, from your description. Does it come from a specific wheel? Or get louder when you transfer weight to that part of the car in a corner?
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Aug 22, 2019 16:07
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Definitely not a rattling. Like something lightly rubbing on something else every time the wheel rotates. Maybe a balance issue? I dunno. Haven't tested on turns but it sounds like it's coming from the back.
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Aug 23, 2019 00:22
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How much have you driven it? Could just be some rust build up on the rotors that will wear off as you brake.
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Aug 23, 2019 00:41
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Dunno if this will work... This is when I'm breaking https://vocaroo.com/i/s1oGr7JRHrB5 Edit: I only drove it briefly this morning. Driving now. Aexo fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Aug 23, 2019 |
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Aug 23, 2019 00:50
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Aexo posted:Dunno if this will work... This is when I'm breaking Sounds like rusty rotors or maybe something stuck in the tire. And the word is brake 
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Aug 23, 2019 00:55
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Any reputable places to get new switchblade keys, or am I stuck going to a dealer and paying $$$? Assholes stole my bag with my keys in it. Car is probably safe but my other key is a wreck.
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Aug 23, 2019 04:03
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First time listener, first time caller: Have a 2017 3 touring with 27k miles on it that gets used for a 45 minute each way commute through suburbia and into the edge of the city every day. Had to replace the rear brakes because one side was down to the backer and grinding, and the other was close. The fronts looked OK without taking the wheels off, but my 30 years of experience with cars told me they had to be close if the rears were shot, so I order a full set of parts. Replace the rears this morning (with a cheat code to back off the e-brake, that was a first for me), then move around and jack up the front and take off the wheel and the brakes are fine. Barely any wear on the rotor, a good amount of pad left. So my question: What the hell? The internet claims this is a known issue for the 3, but what is making the rears wear out so quickly and not remotely in proportion to the front?
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Aug 23, 2019 16:41
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Torque vectored abs braking maybe? I know that was a thing on the FiST.
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Aug 23, 2019 16:55
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stealie72 posted:First time listener, first time caller: Mine went through it's rear pads around 30k while the front had no issues. My guess would be Mazda is providing much thinner starting pads (probably to save cash on parts) which are also being worn faster by the traction control system. Just a guess though. Alas the era of rear pads lasting until the heat death of the universe has passed. Fabulousity fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Aug 23, 2019 |
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Aug 23, 2019 19:31
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I'm curious about this cheat code for the E-brake. What does that mean?
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Aug 23, 2019 19:40
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MA-Horus posted:I'm curious about this cheat code for the E-brake. What does that mean? To get the caliper off, you can either mess around with a torx screw on the back of the ebrake motor to back it off and/or take the motor off, or you can go into maintenance mode, which backs the electric motors off completely. So to do that, you've gotta have the car on but not running, then pull up on the ebrake switch while flooring the gas pedal then pressing start three times quickly, then do it again when you're done to get the electric motors engaged again. First time I've ever had to do something like that and it felt like I should be getting extra lives. As a bonus, maintenance mode backs the ebrake motors off far enough that you can just push the piston straight back in and not have to mess around with turning it back in. So there's that.
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Aug 23, 2019 19:50
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I finally got around to replacing my cabin air filter on my 09 MS3. I think the last time I replaced it was in October of 2015. I tried the not-removing-the-glove-box method, and my entire body hurts. I don't know why you wouldn't remove the glove box. It's not hard, and it gives you a lot more room to work. gently caress whoever designed this generation's HVAC system.
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Aug 25, 2019 08:17
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MetaJew posted:I finally got around to replacing my cabin air filter on my 09 MS3. I think the last time I replaced it was in October of 2015. I tried the not-removing-the-glove-box method, and my entire body hurts. I remember changing it once on my 2012 mazda3 and vowing never again.
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Aug 25, 2019 15:47
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I owned my 08 for 7 years or so, and had a new in box filter for 4 of those years. Every once in a while I'd look up the process and...nope. Threw it in the hatch for the next guy when I sold it.
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Aug 25, 2019 16:18
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It doesn't do much anyway.
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Aug 25, 2019 16:33
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I let my dad drive my MS3 on Sunday (big mistake), and he managed to cause the clutch to burn in like 5 minutes. The smell is mostly gone, but comes back (if faintly) after driving for about 20 minutes. Will it eventually go away on its own, or do I have to replace the clutch now? The car drives and shifts fine otherwise, no slipping as far as I can tell.
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Aug 27, 2019 00:34
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It'll go away in another 50-hundred miles or so
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Aug 27, 2019 03:22
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Ugh, 2019 not kind to my 08.5 3. Now it sounds like a wheel bearing is gone. Death by a thousand five-hundred-dollar-repairs cuts. At some point I have to decide whether I want to keep putting money into this car or just buying something new. This was the first car I owned that I really loved, though, so I've got some kind of weird soft spot for just throwing money at it. It's not even an amazing car like a MS3 or anything 
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Aug 27, 2019 13:38
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Yeah its a tough decision to make, and resale value doesnt necessarily factor in. But might want to start pricing what youd like to move on to (without going down a rabbit hole about personal finance).
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Aug 27, 2019 13:49
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Going down that rabbit hole might be useful for other, unrelated reasons, though. Do you have any good shops nearby that can do a honest assessment of the mechanical soundness of your car? Might be worth doing that, and then estimating the cost per year (and/or per mile) factoring in expected corrective (or preventative) maintenance. In my case, switching from a 2015 Mazda 3 to a new Tesla made (some) financial sense for yearly/per mile costs, but I'll readily admit that the drop in resale value will probably sting down the road. E: A big factor for me was that I wasn't too keen on owning a diesel car out of warranty with a very expensive particulate filter that's prone to fail after 100k miles, and 6.3k mile oil intervals (that had to be done at a dealer because lol resetting oil values in the ECU).
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Aug 27, 2019 14:56
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Lesson learned, don't park in the Texas heat all day, ever. I got into my car after it had baked in the sun all day on the roof of the parking garage and something in the driver side front window was jammed or overheated and the window wouldn't budge. I could hear a relay or motor engaging but nothing moved. I assumed the worst, that the drive gear had eaten itself like the driver rear door did a year or two ago-- and I have a spare hear set lying around. Fortunately, this morning the window rolled down without issue. RE: Death by $500 maintenance: I still have all the parts in my garage to do the front struts, but it is just too loving hot-- and I'm starting to get tempted to just pay a garage to do it, but I haven't found a trustworthy shop. Someone motivate me. I kind of want to test drive a CTR, Focus RS, and Model 3, but I also don't want a car payment.
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Aug 27, 2019 17:16
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This Texas heat is why I never bothered with the dash recall and have been putting off new paint. Best plan is to save and buy used with cash (or finance as little as possible) IMHO. Im hoping mine will last a while longer with the hosed cat conv and anything else.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:56
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I did the thing!  2016, 2.0 Sport Black with all the toys.
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Aug 28, 2019 20:27
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 lord man jesus it is time. it is TIME
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Aug 29, 2019 23:11
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Nice! Just dont run Cobb OTS tunes, they suck.
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Aug 29, 2019 23:15
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hattersmad posted:Nice! Just dont run Cobb OTS tunes, they suck. Cobb does have nice OTS maps if you're running a stock or Cobb-parts-only lightly modified car, but the PO installed a Garrett on this MS6 so I'm in touch with the Freektune guys instead. I'm really happy to be rid of the UniChip; it was a good product, but I gotta move on to the Thing That Shows Me Live Data.
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Aug 29, 2019 23:27
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Eh, I ran a Cobb OTS tune for a week and it wouldnt hit boost targets, had weird fuel trims, etc. Then I got a custom tune from Stratified and its been great for 40k miles. Ive heard good things about Freektune, too. I think the platform is mature enough these days that there are a lot of great tuning options. Are you planning on running an E85 mix? Ive been running E30 by mixing 91 octane and E85, and its a noticeable difference compared to straight 91 octane (40 WHP difference according to vdyno).
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Aug 30, 2019 03:30
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Current priority is getting the car registerable and inspectable, but the drinking of corn is an interesting future thought if it behaves itself.
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Aug 30, 2019 14:02
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We'll be getting a new Mazda 3 by the end of the year. It'll be Soul Red, and I hear bad things about that paint in particular. Is there some accepted best practice on what to do with it? Like, are protective films recommended/must haves for these cars? Can they be machine washed?
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Aug 31, 2019 13:06
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