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Rear main seal? If the engine's going to come out there's a lot more you could do of course.
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Aug 15, 2019 22:52
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ShaneB posted:I'm planning on getting a new clutch in my 91 this winter, either doing the work myself or buying all the parts and having a mechanic do it. Any suggestions for which one to get, what else to do while everything is apart, etc? I was also going to get a new header (which I already have) and exhaust put on since I don't think the stock one is going to survive being removed anyway. Rear main seal is a good suggestion. It's right there with the clutch off. I believe there are seals on the tranny, if it's coming out with it. Change the gear oil too. There's stuff that's thought to reach with the engine in but not impossible. Have the mechanic make sure the ignition and cam angle sensor look okay. I know cam angle can go early. You can replace the coolant sensor pre-emptively which is definitely a PITA. Coolant hoses in the back may be old and crusty. Check the soft fuel lines while it's disconnected and empty. As for the clutch, exedy is the way to go. OEM replacement or stage 1. The Flyin' Miata Happy Meal clutch has a pretty flexible feel as well. Upgrade the clutch line, possibly the slave cylinder and check the motor mounts. I know it's not in the rear, but the oil pump is an engine out procedure as well, make sure it's in good condition. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Aug 15, 2019 |
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Aug 15, 2019 23:16
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the value clutch kit is all you need (~100ish), do the rear main seal, replace the clutch line with a SS extended one, if you haven't done the TB and WP do those, and put in some Mazdaspeed motor mounts.
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Aug 15, 2019 23:28
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ShaneB posted:I'm planning on getting a new clutch in my 91 this winter, either doing the work myself or buying all the parts and having a mechanic do it. Any suggestions for which one to get, what else to do while everything is apart, etc? I was also going to get a new header (which I already have) and exhaust put on since I don't think the stock one is going to survive being removed anyway. I did the clutch on my '95 not too long ago - Got the exedy (i think?) kit from rockauto for around 100 bucks, I did the rear main seal while I was there, since that was my main issue anyway, it was leaking oil on to the clutch and ruined it - the clutch had JUST been replaced but the PO did the rear main seal incorrectly and it soaked the clutch plates in oil causing horrible jumpy starting in first. Also slapped on a new slave cyl since it was cheap and the old one was leaky, and cleaned the gently caress out of the transmission itself and changed the trans oil with royal purple Synchromax, really felt a different with that stuff in both miata's I've had. I will say the whole job was a fuckin pain in the rear end on jackstands, especially getting the trans bolts out, the PO must have torqued them down too hard - they eventually came off with my big boy dewalt brushless electric 1/2" impact, but gently caress are they hard to get to, had to use so many different impact extenders and joints etc. If you have access to a lift or a reputable mechanic if you don't feel like wasting countless hours, highly recommended.
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Aug 16, 2019 03:10
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ShaneB posted:I'm planning on getting a new clutch in my 91 this winter, either doing the work myself or buying all the parts and having a mechanic do it. Any suggestions for which one to get, what else to do while everything is apart, etc? I was also going to get a new header (which I already have) and exhaust put on since I don't think the stock one is going to survive being removed anyway. 91? Cursed water plug! Plus everything else listed.
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Aug 16, 2019 07:37
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Anybody have any advice for which racing seats fit best for somebody that's roughly 6'2 (tall n skinny)? I'm looking for something with a taller headrest over stock so my head doesnt rest against the roll bar. Ideally I'd like to drop an inch or so in the car as well so I don't have to do the gangster lean anymore. Is this possible without modifying the pan / tunnel of the car? I've heard positive things about the lotus exiege seats but locating a pair of those is going to be work.
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Aug 17, 2019 22:12
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d9D1vLFNPB0 Well I didn't really want to buy that house now anyway. I could probably save a bit by skipping the ugly bodykit at least.
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Aug 18, 2019 00:13
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Diametunim posted:Anybody have any advice for which racing seats fit best for somebody that's roughly 6'2 (tall n skinny)? I'm looking for something with a taller headrest over stock so my head doesnt rest against the roll bar. Ideally I'd like to drop an inch or so in the car as well so I don't have to do the gangster lean anymore. This is going to depend entirely on how you're proportioned. If you show up to an autocross there will probably be a lot of miatas, some with race seats, which most people are happy to let you sit in to see how the fit would be. Regardless of which seat you go with, chances are you will need to massage the transmission tunnel with a sledgehammer in order for the seat to be centered. Given you're 6'2", you may not be able to get under the roll bar without removing the rear humps to get low. I'm 6', have a sprint V with the PCI fixed seat bracket, and I'm 1.5-2" under the roll bar. The headrest is high enough to protect my head from hitting the bar, but a lot of my height is in my legs.
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Aug 18, 2019 13:31
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Time capsule NB2: https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/cto/d/springfield-2003-mazda-miata-21k-miles/6960851616.html
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Aug 22, 2019 12:47
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Bud posted:Time capsule NB2: Id buy a mazdaspeed for that much.
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Aug 22, 2019 15:36
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*Time capsule may not have prevented the hoses and seals from aging.
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Aug 22, 2019 15:56
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That makes me super jealous, been spending the better part of a year fixing this rusty, insanely neglected 01 BRG SE. Just finished the head gasket and timing belt. Really proud of my past self for only labeling about 1/4 of the bolts when I took it all apart  
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Aug 22, 2019 21:24
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Voltage posted:That makes me super jealous, been spending the better part of a year fixing this rusty, insanely neglected 01 BRG SE. How bad was this job? I'm planning on doing it this winter. I hear the primary issues are torquing off some of the main bolts, and also tensioning the lower thingamabob to spec is exceptionally important. I'm also uncertain about keeping the cams in place, and pushing the new seals to the right depth. I was informed even the flying miata tool for that isn't 100% correct.
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Aug 22, 2019 21:33
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Keeping the cams in place on the BP engine is easy. The cams have hex flats on them, get an adjustable wrench on each one aimed up so they cross, clamp them together.
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Aug 23, 2019 00:22
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The cams and belt have witness marks. locking them in place isn't necessary.
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Aug 23, 2019 00:23
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New wheel and close to matching knob installed. Anyone know if the non airbag daikei hub is identical to the airbag one minus the resistor?
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Aug 23, 2019 01:19
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Stupid question, trying to drop the rear subframe + arms on my friends nc because it's rusty as gently caress and its easier to just buy a late model one from a breaker. Is it possible to remove the diff without taking out the suspension arms? Mainly because all the bolts are again rusted to gently caress.
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Aug 23, 2019 10:43
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Got a little feisty removing the engine. Broke the coolant sensor.
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Aug 25, 2019 19:10
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OK, I'm stumped. No juice to the fuel pump relay. Juice to the main relay. Bad ground between them? Wiring diagram shows a ground behind the right headlight, but I don't see it (I'm going off a 2003 wiring diagram for a 2001, they can't possibly differ that much right?)
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Aug 25, 2019 21:53
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GD_American posted:OK, I'm stumped. No juice to the fuel pump relay. Juice to the main relay. Bad ground between them? Wiring diagram shows a ground behind the right headlight, but I don't see it (I'm going off a 2003 wiring diagram for a 2001, they can't possibly differ that much right?) Should be able to test the ground continuity without finding the ground.
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Aug 25, 2019 23:15
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Have any of you read that insane stereo guru on the Miata forum talking about how every stock NA has miswired headrest speakers? I honestly can't determine how you are supposed to test for and FIX this issue.
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Aug 25, 2019 23:36
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There's an NA in episode 4 of the new netflix show Hyperdrive. The show isn't really worth watching, it's mostly fake hype announcers and teary backstory bullshit rather than actual interesting driving, but spoiler alert the Miata driver can't drift for poo poo and gets destroyed.
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Aug 26, 2019 18:44
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2008 NC: What are reasons for steeling wheel vibration at 60-80 mph if I've balanced my tires and gotten an alignment and also recently replaced rotors to no effect on the wheel? Control arms? Ball Joint? Questionable wheel balance machine employees?
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Aug 26, 2019 21:37
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ethanol posted:2008 NC: What are reasons for steeling wheel vibration at 60-80 mph if I've balanced my tires and gotten an alignment and also recently replaced rotors to no effect on the wheel? Control arms? Ball Joint? Questionable wheel balance machine employees? Interior de-lamination of the tire. Will not show on a wheel balancing machine, will show when the tire is under load at speed. Has the problem moved along with the wheel when you've swapped the wheel front-to-back or side-to-side?
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Aug 26, 2019 21:54
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The Prong Song posted:Interior de-lamination of the tire. Will not show on a wheel balancing machine, will show when the tire is under load at speed. Has the problem moved along with the wheel when you've swapped the wheel front-to-back or side-to-side? I dunno, I’ll rotate them again tomorrow to see. But they also have been losing some air faster than normal. I think it’s time to just replace them
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Aug 26, 2019 21:57
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Yikes just checked my tire date codes and they are from 09 but look great, shame i need to trash them  Not a shame I'm getting rpf1s with azenis...
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Aug 27, 2019 00:40
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When I picked up my 2000 LS it was a bit low on coolant. I didn't think too much of it, we just topped it off, and I have driven about 2k miles since then. But one day I really noticed it start smelling heavily of coolant and it started to overheat on my drive home from work (I caught it before it was above 3/4 on the gauge). Coolant was unsurprisingly low again, but I hadn't ever noticed any drips or obvious loss. It looked like there was a ton of caked on coolant buildup on the main radiator hose ends and the thermostat housing, so I replaced those and the thermostat while I was at it. While I was running radiator flush/water through the system and cranking up the heater, there was suddenly a ton of water in the driver footwell. So I guess the heater core is hosed? What are the chances just reseating the hose clamps at the heater core fixes it? Meanwhile, I can just bypass the heater entirely by looping the hoses in the engine bay right? It was mostly coming from the arrow pointed section, but you can also see there is coolant in the blower vent as well.
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Aug 27, 2019 15:07
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You won’t know until you pull the heater core and dunk it into a tank.
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Aug 27, 2019 15:17
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Elysium posted:Meanwhile, I can just bypass the heater entirely by looping the hoses in the engine bay right? Yup! Did this on my NA when I got it. I did some research and ordered DAYCO 87618 from Rockauto, trimmed a bit and it fit fine.
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Aug 27, 2019 15:52
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Isn't the heater core critical to engine cooling and the rearmost cylinder will only get passive cooling without a heater core? I always left my heat on because I read somewhere that the heater core was important and it never felt too hot for me.
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Aug 27, 2019 16:50
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The important bit is unrestricted flow. It doesn't necessarily need the extra heat rejection of the core, but it does need coolant passing through it. A clogged heater core, or just capping off the lines, would be equally bad. Looping the lines would be fine.
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Aug 27, 2019 17:26
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This is good to know. I insulated the crap out the exhaust from the cabin and it still gets really warm.
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Aug 27, 2019 19:19
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DeNofa posted:Yup! Did this on my NA when I got it. I did some research and ordered DAYCO 87618 from Rockauto, trimmed a bit and it fit fine. Picked this up from autozone today. Popped off the old ones in 2 minutes and slid it right- oh wait that’s not at all what happened and I still can’t get one of the hose clamps off that barely even twists when I have the levers fully depressed let alone slides off. It’s like the thing is smaller than the godamn hose even fully “loose”
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Aug 28, 2019 01:31
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2019 20:52
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Those flares really work for it man. I dig it.
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Aug 29, 2019 21:14
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I agree.
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Aug 29, 2019 21:18
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I HATE PINK BIKES fucked around with this message at 22:20 on Jun 15, 2020 |
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Aug 29, 2019 21:57
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Go full RAUH-Welt Begriff on that poo poo. Double down with a lexan spoiler.
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Aug 29, 2019 22:34
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Coredump posted:Isn't the RX8 generally praised for its handling? Owning both, Mazda did something wrong on the Miata's shock valving that they did right on the RX-8. Possibly too much optimization for non-enthusiasts.
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Aug 30, 2019 02:08
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So the NC is the fat dumb Miata of the family?
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Aug 30, 2019 03:38
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