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I made a gasket out of the proverbial cereal box top, for my GN125's cam chain tensioner. It's been about a year and it's leaking pretty badly now. Either that or the base gasket for the cylinder is the one leaking, anyway.
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Sep 8, 2019 16:24
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builds character posted:I respectfully disagree. I think a tkc80 is adequate for dirt and that’s it. For me, there’s a noticeable difference between the tkc80 and non-DOT knobbies. But it’s definitely a good compromise for “I want to run mostly street but hit some fire roads too.” I mean, yeah, non-DOT tires are almost always going to be better off-road, there's a reason I run two sets of wheels, I would never run DOT tires at a race, but I think the 75% street is really selling them short, like I said they really suck in deep, slippy mud, but they're fine for trail riding, I used them to go up some of these trails which are certainly more technical terrain than fire roads. It's all a compromise anyways, even for off-road knobbies, something super soft like a Shinko 505 is loving amazing for crawling up rocks, roots, and tree stumps, but they loving suck in mud, snow, and sand, whereas an intermediate compound knobby like a Washougal will do well in all conditions, but not really excell in any, and my Starcross5 Mediums are awesome at shedding mud, but aren't much better than the TKC80s at the rocks and poo poo that comprise most of my trail riding. TL:DR this is what I think of when I here "fire road" riding this is like "lol yeah, it's ""DOT legal"" for your 2 seconds of pavement between roads, the TKC80 is somewhere in the middle in terms of road manners and off-road capability, like maybe a 50/50, or 66/33 dirt/street.
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Sep 8, 2019 22:05
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Elviscat posted:I mean, yeah, non-DOT tires are almost always going to be better off-road, there's a reason I run two sets of wheels, I would never run DOT tires at a race, but I think the 75% street is really selling them short, like I said they really suck in deep, slippy mud, but they're fine for trail riding, I used them to go up some of these trails which are certainly more technical terrain than fire roads. I mean, if you like them then run them? I’ve been to green mountain. It’s really nice and fun and good. I would not run a tkc80 there if I had a choice but I don’t think it’s a stupid choice, particularly if they came on your bike and you just want to go ride. I just don’t think they’re good dirt tires if you have other options. I’d go to 80/20 for road/dirt but when I think of 50/50 I think of something more aggressive like the pirelli scorpion XC. I suppose when I think of 0/100 I’m thinking of non-dot knobbies (or gt which are also dot legal for some reason and I’ve really been enjoying up front). I’m hardly an expert on it, and you can run all sorts of tires and bikes in the dirt. I just think it’s more fun if you get a tire that’s made for it rather than made to be a compromise. I think we probably just disagree though. I have a starcross soft on my rear and I think it’s a lot better than the tkcs that came on the bike at the rocky, rooty terrain we have here (and no comparison at all in the sand).
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Sep 9, 2019 02:03
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How good are these gasket papers actually? Last time I ordered a gasket for the seal around the clutch it came in a cardboard envelope and the idiot courier squished it through my letterbox.
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Sep 9, 2019 02:32
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Azza Bamboo posted:How good are these gasket papers actually? As long as they don’t delaminate they’re fine usually
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Sep 9, 2019 02:35
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builds character posted:I mean, if you like them then run them? I’ve been to green mountain. It’s really nice and fun and good. I would not run a tkc80 there if I had a choice but I don’t think it’s a stupid choice, particularly if they came on your bike and you just want to go ride. I just don’t think they’re good dirt tires if you have other options. I’d go to 80/20 for road/dirt but when I think of 50/50 I think of something more aggressive like the pirelli scorpion XC. I think we're on the same page, I just wanted to share I was pretty surprised by how capable the TKC80 was, I've been having fun with them because I live 30 minutes from Tahuya and Green Mountain, so I've been going out and progressively pushing them, they're not my only tire though so I'm not forced to compromise! I have a set of Warp 9 Elites with Starcross Mediums on them that I run for races and aggressive trail riding, they're also plus 2 teeth in the rear for a little better torque off road, as the weather shits up and the trails get less maintained and muddier (best time of year to trail ride imo) I'll probably switch to the non-DOT tires full time, as the TKCs turn into muddy slicks pretty fast. Warp 9's in horrible obnoxious KTM anodized Orange that clashes with my bike: (I looked for pictures, and realized they're so dirty 95% of the time you can't tell the color)  R.e. gaskets: as a man who replaces gaskets professionally, if you have the spare bolt length, go with neoprene sheet instead, it's more tolerant and easier to work with, I HATE paper.
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Sep 9, 2019 03:51
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Question about an old barn bike I recently picked up: 1965 Honda CT90 - replaced the coil but am getting no spark. Do these old things NEED a battery to start, and is the rectifier also a necessity if you’re not going to be running lights, etc? I would like to keep it as simple as possible for a yard bike. At this point I have a single wire coil hooked up to the ignition and that’s basically it.
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Sep 9, 2019 11:03
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Elviscat posted:if you have the spare bolt length, go with neoprene sheet instead, it's more tolerant and easier to work with, I HATE paper. Implying the gasket is thicker, won't this decrease my compression ratio? Or are these solutions just for the other gaskets and not the head? Azza Bamboo fucked around with this message at 11:12 on Sep 9, 2019 |
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Sep 9, 2019 11:08
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Elviscat posted:I think we're on the same page, I just wanted to share I was pretty surprised by how capable the TKC80 was, I've been having fun with them because I live 30 minutes from Tahuya and Green Mountain, so I've been going out and progressively pushing them, they're not my only tire though so I'm not forced to compromise! I have a set of Warp 9 Elites with Starcross Mediums on them that I run for races and aggressive trail riding, they're also plus 2 teeth in the rear for a little better torque off road, as the weather shits up and the trails get less maintained and muddier (best time of year to trail ride imo) I'll probably switch to the non-DOT tires full time, as the TKCs turn into muddy slicks pretty fast. I really want to put blue rims on my KTM.  You should try the GT fatty front. It's so good. Also DOT legal! Some people don't like it because they say it climbs out of ruts but I haven't experienced that. Huh, my in-laws live close to you. Those really are great places to ride.
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Sep 9, 2019 15:59
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Azza Bamboo posted:Implying the gasket is thicker, won't this decrease my compression ratio? Or are these solutions just for the other gaskets and not the head? Other gaskets, you have a paper head gasket?
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Sep 9, 2019 18:09
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I'm really tempted to get a beater and see if it'd work.
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Sep 9, 2019 18:10
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Imperador do Brasil posted:Question about an old barn bike I recently picked up: Has it got AC or DC points? Got a multimeter? Azza Bamboo posted:I'm really tempted to get a beater and see if it'd work. It works on old small gutless air cooled two strokes.
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Sep 9, 2019 20:00
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I finally went to get my bike out of storage this weekend (I bought a house in May, I've been busy, leave me alone). I started it up without issue, and began putting my gear on, only to notice a drip appearing underneath it. It didn't take long before it was basically a puddle. Turned the bike off, all the dripping stopped. Waited five minutes; no more dripping. Turned the bike back on, heavy dripping from multiple points began again. Turned the bike back off and haven't touched it since. It's dripping gasoline. What caught me off guard is that there isn't a single drip underneath where the bike has been sitting since October of last year. It wasn't until I turned the bike on that it started, and after having turned it off, it basically hasn't had another drop come out. At first, it appeared to be coming out of the crankcase. It looked like the gas was coming out of the seams of it. But I didn't think the crankcase would have gasoline in it? Then I noticed that wasn't only one spot I saw the gas. It was dripping from several locations behind and within the innards of the bike. I wasn't able to determine where it was originating from, as it seemed to be up inside the bike, somewhere that I couldn't really get a vision on it. Initially I thought it was the small rubber tube, which I think is some sort of gas runoff, but that had nothing coming out of it at all. Facts are that 1. it's only leaking while it's running, 2. it's leaking gasoline, and 3. it's leaking from more than one specific spot. What do you think I'm dealing with? e: Sorry, forgot to mention: 1998 Honda CBR 600 F3 Here's photos of the general area it was leaking from.   
The Wonder Weapon fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Sep 11, 2019 |
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Sep 11, 2019 17:07
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Is the bike EFI or carbed? If it's carbed then the leak is after your vacuum-operated petcock. If it's EFI then the leak is on the high pressure side of your fuel pump. That's why it doesn't leak unless the engine is running. Guessing you have a hole in a fuel line, or a bad seal on your float valve / stuck float (if carbed).
Ulf fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Sep 11, 2019 |
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Sep 11, 2019 17:19
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Ulf posted:Is the bike EFI or carbed? If it's carbed then the leak is after your vacuum-operated petcock. If it's EFI then the leak is on the high pressure side of your fuel pump. That's why it doesn't leak unless the engine is running. Guessing you have a hole in a fuel line, or a bad seal on your float valve / stuck float (if carbed). I'm rusty on all the details of this, but I'm 70% it's fuel injected. That would make it a hole in a fuel line or a bad seal on the float valve, right?
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Sep 11, 2019 17:29
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The F3 is carburated, it didn't get FI until the F4i (injected) 90% chance that you have a stuck float on a carburetor, there should be 4 overflow tubes, one from each carburetor, check those, stuck floats can often be fixed by rapping on the float bowl with a soft mallet or such, the other possibility is a cracked or disconnected fuel line, that started leaking as soon as it saw pressure (from the fuel pump or vacuum petcock) The reason it looks like it's coming from the crankcase is it's flowing down it. The only real course of action is to start it up with the fairings off to search for the source of the leak.
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Sep 11, 2019 17:36
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Elviscat posted:The F3 is carburated, it didn't get FI until the F4i (injected) 90% chance that you have a stuck float on a carburetor, there should be 4 overflow tubes, one from each carburetor, check those, stuck floats can often be fixed by rapping on the float bowl with a soft mallet or such, the other possibility is a cracked or disconnected fuel line, that started leaking as soon as it saw pressure (from the fuel pump or vacuum petcock) Ah ok, carb'd. Thank you. If it is in fact just a stuck float, is it possibly as easy as giving the float bowl (which I won't recognize) a couple taps with a rubber mallet?
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Sep 11, 2019 18:02
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Ah ok, carb'd. Thank you. Do you know what the carb looks like (don't mean that to be snarky at all)? Float bowls are the bowl looking part on the bottom. If not, it looks like this https://www.partsgiant.com/p356105-...BCABEgIYY_D_BwE and the float bowl is ~the bottom 1/3rd.
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Sep 11, 2019 19:09
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builds character posted:Do you know what the carb looks like (don't mean that to be snarky at all)? Float bowls are the bowl looking part on the bottom. Definitely not being snarky. I knew a little when I was riding regularly, but that was several years ago, so don't assume I know anything at this point. I'm watching this video and this looks like something I can manage. I'll try it the next time I'm out by the bike. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx392NmYTwY
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Sep 11, 2019 19:36
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The Wonder Weapon posted:Definitely not being snarky. I knew a little when I was riding regularly, but that was several years ago, so don't assume I know anything at this point. Also going with stuck float here, but as someone who has dealt with many a leaky carb on many a leaky 90's bike, it's impossible to tell for sure until you get the tank off and are able to see it all from above. The "leaks when runs" is usually stuck float, but could also be a fitting that isn't sealing and only leaks when under pressure from the fuel pump. Could also be a float bowl gasket or a plastic t-junction, these are the most common things to leak. You might be able to dislodge it with a tap but that only really proves where the problem lies. The float stuck for a reason, and that reason is either old fuel or a worn float needle (or, I suppose, a broken float post or mangled/mis-adjusted float). If the fuel was old enough to stick the float, it's probably old enough to cause other issues. Who knows though, maybe you unstick it and it runs well enough for your needs.
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Sep 11, 2019 19:44
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Gorson posted:Also going with stuck float here, but as someone who has dealt with many a leaky carb on many a leaky 90's bike, it's impossible to tell for sure until you get the tank off and are able to see it all from above. The "leaks when runs" is usually stuck float, but could also be a fitting that isn't sealing and only leaks when under pressure from the fuel pump. Could also be a float bowl gasket or a plastic t-junction, these are the most common things to leak. Unsticking the float is going to be about where I reach the end of the line. I'll knock around a bit, and if it stops leaking. great. If not, I'm calling a tow truck. If it stops temporarily but then starts up again in a few weeks, then I'll knock it free a second time and ride it to a shop. I know these repairs are all technically within the scope of my ability, but I'd much rather drop it off at the shop and let them do it correctly while I spend the time elsewhere.
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Sep 11, 2019 19:48
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There are some bigger questions here. When was the last time you were riding consistently? Not the last time you started the bike, the last time it was running like not-poo poo at least every couple two-three weeks? When you start poking around fixing carb issues on a 90s I4 and can't say for certain the last time all the little rubber bits and gaskets and valves and poo poo in your fuel system was serviced properly (with new little rubber bits and gaskets and valves and poo poo), it's a pretty good bet the entire rack of carbs needs servicing, along with all your fuel line, filter, maybe petcock, maybe gas tank. Call me pessimistic, but it's rare that a fuel leak is fixed in one easy little part swap on a bike that hasn't been kept up with in a while. If one thing is failing, especially if it's the likely case of a float valve, the rest of them are going to be going at about the same rate. Not necessarily always the case, but as soon as one float valve quits, or one o-ring, that's usually the start of the rest of them going one by one. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 23:20 on Sep 11, 2019 |
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Sep 11, 2019 23:17
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:There are some bigger questions here. This is a pretty much binary situation. Either is a split in a hose and a 2 minute fix, or you're taking the carbs out. If you're taking the carbs out, you may as well do everything for the above reasons because the last thing you want is taking the carbs out/apart twice.
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Sep 12, 2019 00:03
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I removed Ninja 500 carbs three times before I ebay'd a junk set, rebuilt them, and swapped them in. Don't be a stubborn knucklehead like me. That bike taught me some important lessons about "buy once cry once". Now my friend owns it, it's ridden regularly, and he hasn't had to mess with poo poo over the last 15k mi.
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Sep 12, 2019 07:30
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I've been thinking of buying a quick shifter (Bazzaz QS4 more specifically), mostly because I figured I'd want one at some point and I don't now how long they're going to be making them for my (discontinued) bike. It seems like that model has pretty good reviews, but is there any downside to installing one? Are they actually that nice to have?
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Sep 13, 2019 05:45
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the stock one on my SAR whips rear end and riding a bike without one is not a dealbreaker, but it is far less fun
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Sep 13, 2019 05:57
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I've got the factory one on my XR. It's a nice feature but I wouldnt put any money into getting one if it didnt come that way from the factory. When I ride my other bikes without it, I don't miss it.
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Sep 13, 2019 15:05
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Had a BMW R1200R with a quick shifter- it was really fun, and convenient sometimes. Agree it’s not a dealbreaker on a bike- clutchless downshifts can be learned easily and upshifting can be pretty darn quick too. It’s just hard to be as smooth/fast as a good quickshifter
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Sep 13, 2019 16:13
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My one experience with a quickshifter is that it makes you hella lazy really drat fast and if you put one on your full-time bike you'd probably forget how to work a clutch within a month.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:32
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Slavvy posted:I can't recall if the rex has a compensator of some kind between the crank and clutch but that would be my first suspect, corrugated clutch basket fingers can also do that. Sometimes changing oil brands or composition can help stuff like that. No compensator, I posted in the "What did you do thread" but upshot is the springs and thrust bearing both need servicing, the plates are fine and dandy, I couldn't get the nut off the hub to check anything in behind it but the hub rotates smoothly, and the clutch basket fingers aren't straight up corrugated yet but they are noticeably wavy to a manual inspection. If I ever have to replace that, the damperless clutch basket from the 04+ rex is apparently a drop-in replacement. It's also six hundred friggin dollars on ron ayers. I do have a clutch wrench thing coming with my spring kit, so I will be checking behind the hub before I put everything back together.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:52
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I already clutchless downshift/upshift a lot anyway, but it just sounds nice to have. I've not heard great things about the Bazzaz traction control system, but a quick shifter seems like it'd be pretty easy to implement.
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Sep 13, 2019 17:57
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Finger Prince posted:My one experience with a quickshifter is that it makes you hella lazy really drat fast and if you put one on your full-time bike you'd probably forget how to work a clutch within a month. Throw in an autoclutch and you’ve got yourself a DIY DCT.
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Sep 13, 2019 18:28
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up and down quickshifters on track are very fun and makes you feel like you're being bad but it's fine on the bike. I rode a tuono v4 with one on track and I felt like I was banging around a dirtbike in the woods. I don't know why you'd want to get an aftermarket one on the street though besides something to do.
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Sep 13, 2019 19:19
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Finger Prince posted:My one experience with a quickshifter is that it makes you hella lazy really drat fast and if you put one on your full-time bike you'd probably forget how to work a clutch within a month. This is true. My Goldwing has auto canceling turn signals and I’ve basically forgot how to work them on a normal bike now
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Sep 13, 2019 21:21
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I am back with dumb warning light complaining about lamp failure on my s1000xr. I installed 50w/6ohm resistors today (in parallel) but am still getting the light. The original bulbs were 55W and the new ones are 17W. One would think the warning light would shut up but no. Any ideas what else I could try? Do I need to find a resistor that will eat up exactly 38W to make total wattage equal?
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Sep 15, 2019 19:43
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pokie posted:I am back with dumb warning light complaining about lamp failure on my s1000xr. I installed 50w/6ohm resistors today (in parallel) but am still getting the light. The original bulbs were 55W and the new ones are 17W. One would think the warning light would shut up but no. Any ideas what else I could try? Do I need to find a resistor that will eat up exactly 38W to make total wattage equal? Wtf no man you need to put the resistors in series.
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Sep 15, 2019 19:50
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Slavvy posted:Wtf no man you need to put the resistors in series. Well, it looks they come hooked up in parallel from the manufacturer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MXF2FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I can't be sure.
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Sep 15, 2019 19:56
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pokie posted:Well, it looks they come hooked up in parallel from the manufacturer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MXF2FS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 All I can tell you is this: the point of the resistor is to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb, wiring them in parallel will not do that. I have never seen or heard of LED resistors being wired in parallel, plus what you've done is clearly not working so why not try?
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Sep 15, 2019 20:09
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Slavvy posted:All I can tell you is this: the point of the resistor is to simulate the load of an incandescent bulb, wiring them in parallel will not do that. I have never seen or heard of LED resistors being wired in parallel, plus what you've done is clearly not working so why not try? I suppose if for some idiotic reason you wanted the bulb failure alarm to never trigger - even when a bulb failed - wiring them in parallel would do the trick.
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Sep 15, 2019 20:41
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goddamnedtwisto posted:I suppose if for some idiotic reason you wanted the bulb failure alarm to never trigger - even when a bulb failed - wiring them in parallel would do the trick. That is what I want at this point. It could also be that the running lights are causing this error.
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Sep 15, 2019 20:51
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