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pokie posted:I am back with dumb warning light complaining about lamp failure on my s1000xr. I installed 50w/6ohm resistors today (in parallel) but am still getting the light. The original bulbs were 55W and the new ones are 17W. One would think the warning light would shut up but no. Any ideas what else I could try? Do I need to find a resistor that will eat up exactly 38W to make total wattage equal? Wiring resistors in series increases the resistance while keeping the power capacity the same. Wiring resistors in parallel reduces the resistance while increasing power capacity. If you put two 50W 6-ohm resistors in parallel you've created a 3-ohm resistor that can handle 100 watts. Is that what you need? Do you know what makes the warning light go on? Is it a current sense system (i.e. "if less than x amps are being drawn, the bulb must have burned out, so light the warning lamp") or is it just a shunt ("if the bulb burns out, the current will go through the warning lamp instead and light it up")? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 02:25 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 02:21
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I have no idea how the warning light works exactly.
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Sep 16, 2019 03:27
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WRONG Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 04:28
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Slavvy posted:Y'all are overthinking this to gently caress. It doesn't matter how it works, it's just looking for a bulb and when it doesn't see one, it flips the light. Wire them in series and it'll work. I will see if I can get someone to help out. I don't have any tools for wiring and haven't done it since breadboarding in college. E: first I should probably test current and such and see if I can figure out how it's actually wired right now.
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Sep 16, 2019 06:17
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Lol, if you wire them in series the 12v LED circuit literally won't work, because a majority of the voltage will be dropped across the resistor, this is why you would wire a 3v LED in serues with a resistor on a 12v circuit, so that 9v drop across the resistor as a heat load and don't over voltage the LED. It's meant to drop the resistance of the whole circuit to that of an incandescent/halogen bulb, which is LOWER than an LED, so that the system sees the resistance it expects. You could also just crack into your cluster and put electric tape over the maintenance light. Sagebrush is the electronics expert here, I'd listen to him, can you remind us the make/model of your bike so perhaps we could look it up? Elviscat fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 06:32
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Elviscat posted:Lol, if you wire them in series the 12v LED circuit literally won't work, because a majority of the voltage will be dropped across the resistor, this is why you would wire a 3v LED in serues with a resistor on a 12v circuit, so that 9v drop across the resistor as a heat load and don't over voltage the LED. Nope I've been the dumbass all along here. Literally went and looked at my bike, which has indicator resistors on which I put on myself, and they are wired in parallel. It should've worked, don't listen to me, kthxbye. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 07:16 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 07:13
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^^^ I imagine it's the stupid running lights then.Elviscat posted:Lol, if you wire them in series the 12v LED circuit literally won't work, because a majority of the voltage will be dropped across the resistor, this is why you would wire a 3v LED in serues with a resistor on a 12v circuit, so that 9v drop across the resistor as a heat load and don't over voltage the LED. It's S1000XR, 2016. I definitely can't just cover up the warning in cluster since it's not a dedicated light - it's shown on a display where it would alternate with other warnings as needed. For what it's worth my research has shown that S1000R bikes just have a menu setting to turn light warning off, presumably for when people disconnect them when racing. I checked and that's absent on my bike. pokie fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Sep 16, 2019 |
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Sep 16, 2019 07:19
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pokie posted:^^^ I imagine it's the stupid running lights then. Is this for your headlight? I had to install a resistor on my turn signals after going from stock to LED. It took me a couple of tries to figure out the write ohm for it to turn off the light. I ended up at a 12 ohm resistor per side which is different than mosts posts online which indicate less is needed. The XR does not have the ability to cancel the warning text. I looked into this for a while before doing the resistors. They also disabled the ability to set the computer to recognize LED bulbs, which was apparently a feature at some point.
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Sep 16, 2019 16:51
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I wanted to give you guys an update that after banging all over the carb casing with the handle of a screwdriver, I turned the bike on and not a single drop of fuel came out anywhere. That' was pretty surprising; I figured if it was a stuck valve, at least a little would drip out and then stop. Hey, I won't complain. I'll keep a close eye on it the next few times I take it out to watch for any suspicious behavior. Thanks again everyone!
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Sep 16, 2019 17:09
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I wanted to give you guys an update that after banging all over the carb casing with the handle of a screwdriver, I turned the bike on and not a single drop of fuel came out anywhere. That' was pretty surprising; I figured if it was a stuck valve, at least a little would drip out and then stop. Hey, I won't complain. How much do you think you would've paid a mechanic to tap your carbs with a screwdriver
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Sep 16, 2019 17:16
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mewse posted:How much do you think you would've paid a mechanic to tap your carbs with a screwdriver I'll do it for half that. Think of the savings!
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Sep 16, 2019 18:50
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Kastivich posted:Is this for your headlight? Yeah, headlight and running lights in the headlight compartment.
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Sep 16, 2019 18:54
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mewse posted:How much do you think you would've paid a mechanic to tap your carbs with a screwdriver You're not paying the guy to tap on the carb with a screwdriver, you're paying for the years of experience and knowledge required to know that you just need to tap on the carb with a screwdriver.
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Sep 16, 2019 20:47
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The Wonder Weapon posted:You're not paying the guy to tap on the carb with a screwdriver, you're paying for the years of experience and knowledge required to know that you just need to tap on the carb with a screwdriver.
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Sep 16, 2019 23:43
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:As a mechanic I want people to know that this is not total bullshit It really isn't, some of my favorite people are the YouTube tutorial heroes who break their poo poo and have their wife call me for help.
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Sep 17, 2019 01:13
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Whoever suggested earlier in the thread that I get some Wago splice thingies, bless you, they are perfect.
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Sep 17, 2019 08:26
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:As a mechanic I want people to know that this is not total bullshit I originally heard it within the context of a logo designer being asked to do work for free because "it's just a little logo they take two seconds to draw," but it's a concept applicable across a broad spectrum
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Sep 17, 2019 14:27
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pokie posted:Yeah, headlight and running lights in the headlight compartment. Do the running lights trigger the lamp out warning? I havent encountered a burnout in one of those bulbs yet.
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Sep 17, 2019 16:01
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The Wonder Weapon posted:I originally heard it within the context of a logo designer being asked to do work for free because "it's just a little logo they take two seconds to draw," but it's a concept applicable across a broad spectrum There's a general loss of belief in the concept of an expert nowadays imo. Both because of the internet making people think they're experts, and because the way we denote experts has become so corrupt and meaningless as to make people lose faith in the whole idea.
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Sep 17, 2019 19:44
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I have the sense that there's still some respect for people with college degrees of various kinds, but less so with any other skilled trade. Not that I really know what it was like 50 years ago culturally speaking. I still fall into the same trap too, though, attempting to DIY things I ought to know better on.
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Sep 20, 2019 02:48
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I have the sense that there's still some respect for people with college degrees of various kinds, but less so with any other skilled trade. Not that I really know what it was like 50 years ago culturally speaking. I still fall into the same trap too, though, attempting to DIY things I ought to know better on. Really? Because I get the exact opposite. Boomers always thought they could handyman their way out of everything. Millennials don't try to pretend to be experts at fixing everything and most stuff is too complicated to tinker around with if you have no training
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Sep 20, 2019 03:50
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I think Mike Rowe has done a lot to spotlight skilled trades as a valuable thing, and at least around Seattle all the millennials in Tech seem to respect it, paying tradesmen $40,000 to remodel their bathroom might have something to do with it. I could also be suffering from confirmation bias, I'm a mechanic with a goal education and I haven't run into any blatant "lol, you're a knuckle dragging monkey" but my roommate/ best friend is a contractor, and my family and my girlfriend's college educated friends aren't gonna make fun of me to my face. Either way I think we're in a reversal of the 90's "go to college or you're a loser" mentality. Especially with lol levels of student loan debt.
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Sep 20, 2019 05:13
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Slavvy posted:There's a general loss of belief in the concept of an expert nowadays imo. Both because of the internet making people think they're experts, and because the way we denote experts has become so corrupt and meaningless as to make people lose faith in the whole idea. Experts have a nasty habit of telling people what they don't want to hear.
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Sep 20, 2019 06:44
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Partly, "experts" also have a nasty habit of saying what makes them or their superiors the most money. But also, I have a sense of incompetence and laziness creeping into areas where I previously took top performance for granted. A century old dam near me was being replaced, but the contractor made some stupid choices they didn't make 100 years ago, so the temporary dam collapsed. Aircraft manufacturers used to take security so seriously, they developed a while new way of thinking that many other industries have put to enormously good use. Now Boeing and Airbus engage in denial and PR campaigns. And many other examples. Each of which can probably be nuanced, there's certainly a rose tinted glasses factor, but even so the sum of bullshit seems out of place. I wonder if the Romans were complaining about the state of current aquaduct building and how hard it was to find good mosaic layers around, oh 390 AD or so.
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Sep 20, 2019 07:26
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Ola posted:Partly, "experts" also have a nasty habit of saying what makes them or their superiors the most money. But also, I have a sense of incompetence and laziness creeping into areas where I previously took top performance for granted. Nah, in each of these cases I'm certain there were experts saying "this is a poo poo idea" and managers saying "but this guy says it's fine and we save .3% doing it this way so I get my bonus this year". This isn't a problem with experts, it's a problem with late-stage capitalism.
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Sep 20, 2019 08:20
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Dumb question: Just fitted a 3/4 pipe to my MT10sp. Bike seems to be a bit more sluggish and smells like fuel. I take it this is because it's now running lean and the cat is out, or did I gently caress up something during the install? Trying to book a tune but it's pretty hard to find a place here in the central coast near Sydney. Yes, I checked for exhaust leaks...
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Sep 20, 2019 09:16
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If it's smelling fuel, I would suspect it's running rich rather than lean. Did you remove any sensors in the same operation? I don't know what you wanted to achieve, but removing big parts of the exhaust is pretty much guaranteed to make it run worse. The engine is engineered to work with the cat, bring it up to working temp etc. The exhaust is not just a government mandated horsepower cork you can pop for free extra fun. Maybe a power commander and tune can help counteract some of the negative effects, but not all of them.
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Sep 20, 2019 09:33
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Ola posted:If it's smelling fuel, I would suspect it's running rich rather than lean. Did you remove any sensors in the same operation? Nah didn't remove any of the sensors. Just wanted a little more sound, the stock system is very quiet to the point I literally can't hear it a lot of the time (with earplugs). The plan is to get it tuned, just hadn't had this sort of change in performance before with other bikes I've had.
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Sep 20, 2019 10:10
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Barnsy posted:
You could save a lot of money and hassle and annoy your surroundings a lot less simply by getting some less effective earplugs.
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Sep 20, 2019 10:22
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Ola posted:You could save a lot of money and hassle and annoy your surroundings a lot less simply by getting some less effective earplugs. Cool. In the meantime I got the next quietest system at legal noise levels I could find and I leave the baffle in, and I don't give a poo poo about 'loud pipes save lives'. I just wanted to hear my 1000cc 160hp crossplane while not loving up my hearing. Cool? Now that I've spent the money, and clearly I don't care about spending more, it'd be helpful to get some advice rather than suggest I sell a system that, since I've used, I can't return anyway.
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Sep 20, 2019 12:30
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Ola posted:You could save a lot of money and hassle and annoy your surroundings a lot less simply by getting some less effective earplugs.  go away low T guy (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Sep 20, 2019 14:50
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Barnsy posted:Cool. In the meantime I got the next quietest system at legal noise levels I could find and I leave the baffle in, and I don't give a poo poo about 'loud pipes save lives'. I just wanted to hear my 1000cc 160hp crossplane while not loving up my hearing. Cool? You could hunt for custom maps for your bike + pipe combo, they may exist! If not power commander + tune job. You actually can get more power out of a new pipe because stock will often be conforming to emissions / noise standards (Aus nanny state is a thing so yes?)
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Sep 20, 2019 21:20
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Shelvocke posted:You could hunt for custom maps for your bike + pipe combo, they may exist! That's what I thought, need to find a dyno locally, I may have to travel to Sydney. Given the number of peeps that get tunes, it's surprisingly hard to find.
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Sep 20, 2019 22:42
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Can someone tell me if my understanding of this electrical system is correct? I've got a background in electrical engineering but not power electronics, and it's tough digging up information on motorcycle forums because gearheads are deathly afraid of electricity apparently (not that I'm one to talk, I barely understand how the mechanics of a bike work). Here's the wiring diagram for a US XR600R:  From what I've read, most off-road dirt bikes will have a stator that has two windings: one to charge the capacitor in the CDI and another to power the lights. The diagram isn't exactly clear, but I believe the B/R wire is connected to the coil that is grounded on the other end to the stator case to make chassis ground. And the G and Y/W wires are the ends of the coil which then connect to the regulator and lights for a "floating ac" system. I unplugged the stator and checked the continuity/resistance of the wires and I got: B/R has no continuity with G or Y/W B/R to chassis ground is 100ohms G to Y/W have no continuity to chassis ground, but they do have 2ohms between each other. So far, this seems to match up with the theory. Now, I've got a question about how the kill switch is supposed to work. I'm not sure what's inside a CDI since it's potted in epoxy, but here's a diagram I found online:  Basically, it looks like that G2 wire taps off the ignition coil and shorts to ground to cut spark to engine. However, on the XR diagram, it looks like that wire is already connected to chassis ground and the kill switch instead connects the lightning circuit to the ignition coil circuit? Not sure how this works.
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Sep 23, 2019 04:10
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yergacheffe posted:Can someone tell me if my understanding of this electrical system is correct? I've got a background in electrical engineering but not power electronics, and it's tough digging up information on motorcycle forums because gearheads are deathly afraid of electricity apparently (not that I'm one to talk, I barely understand how the mechanics of a bike work). It looks like it just shunts some connections off the CDI box to ground. CDI G > B > Kill Switch connection becomes continuous to ground and presumably prevents the ignition coil from charging. (It's hard to tell since the wiring colors in the diagram don't match the ones in the XR schematics exactly. Could be preventing the pulse generator from triggering the coil as well, you could check which of the two possibilities it is with a volt meter) Edit: I have a question too. The chicken strip on my front tire is waaaaay winder than the one on my rear tire, that's normal right? DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 04:53 on Sep 23, 2019 |
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Sep 23, 2019 04:46
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Mirconium posted:Edit: I have a question too. The chicken strip on my front tire is waaaaay winder than the one on my rear tire, that's normal right? Yes that's normal, you can use your rear to the edge and still have a couple of mm left at the edges of the front.
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Sep 23, 2019 09:45
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yergacheffe posted:Can someone tell me if my understanding of this electrical system is correct? I've got a background in electrical engineering but not power electronics, and it's tough digging up information on motorcycle forums because gearheads are deathly afraid of electricity apparently (not that I'm one to talk, I barely understand how the mechanics of a bike work). By no means an expert, but wouldn't the kill switch and ignition on G2 need to be in series, not parallel? Otherwise the engine would still run if either was open and the other closed, whereas in this scenario you'd want both closed to be the way. Silly question, but does a xr600r even have a keyed ignition? I'm not sure the second diagram represents close to what's going on on your bike. I think the kill switch (b/w) is the "true" ground for the CDI and perhaps the G is an overflow. (Pretty much what Mirconium said)
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Sep 23, 2019 11:39
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Shelvocke posted:By no means an expert, but wouldn't the kill switch and ignition on G2 need to be in series, not parallel? Otherwise the engine would still run if either was open and the other closed, whereas in this scenario you'd want both closed to be the way. That part kinda makes sense, you do want them to be in parallel because a connection to ground interrupts the charging current to the capacitor. If either connection closes then the capacitor can't charge, if they are both open then it charges. But I am not sure what is going on with the coil setup in the two diagrams. There is an ignition coil in the xr diagram separate from the cdi box, but it looks a little weird like it has some self-resonating setup or something. And presumably you don't have two sets of coils, one in the cdi and one in a separate module DearSirXNORMadam fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Sep 23, 2019 |
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Sep 23, 2019 15:31
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Mirconium posted:It looks like it just shunts some connections off the CDI box to ground. CDI G > B > Kill Switch connection becomes continuous to ground and presumably prevents the ignition coil from charging. (It's hard to tell since the wiring colors in the diagram don't match the ones in the XR schematics exactly. Could be preventing the pulse generator from triggering the coil as well, you could check which of the two possibilities it is with a volt meter) Shelvocke posted:By no means an expert, but wouldn't the kill switch and ignition on G2 need to be in series, not parallel? Otherwise the engine would still run if either was open and the other closed, whereas in this scenario you'd want both closed to be the way. Sorry I wasn't clear, that CDI schematic is just a theoretical one explaining how a CDI works. It's unrelated to the XR. I totally overlooked the CDI G > B connection though, I thought the only interaction between the ignition and lighting circuit was through the kill switch. I'll probe CDI G and B/R, I suspect there's continuity there. There's no key for the XR600R, but in other bikes with a key it'd make sense for them to be in parallel. Only one of them needs to be used to cut power to the spark.
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Sep 23, 2019 16:28
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Can someone explain to me the phenomenon of mild fishtailing when downshifting into a corner? Seat of the pants, I think I know what it is, but I'd like to see it laid out. You see this all the time in MotoGP, before they enter the corner on braking and downshifting the back end wiggles around a bit. I experienced it last night in the rain on one of the DVP onramps. I wasn't even going very hard (natch, because of the rain) but it was distinctively that very same 'rear end wiggle' that you see on the track. Tire wasn't locked for sure, I would have heard and felt that. Gave me a nice little adrenaline shot, felt great. Again, seat of the pants: I'm guessing this is when the tire isn't quite locked up but the shift forces it to be rotating not quite at the right speed, so it slips a little. Is this correct?
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Sep 23, 2019 19:46
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