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ShaneB posted:I'm saving up for like 4 years to get a used 2019 in like 2023 with cash, I guess. Because no way I am financing a car ever again. Mazda giving out 1.9% financing on miatas for 72 months, considering inflation, that's pretty stellar. Just something to think about if your situation is stable. Better to finance than to obliterate your savings anyway.
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Oct 5, 2019 03:27
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If it has an LS/LT swap, then hells yes.
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Oct 5, 2019 03:47
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Joe Mama posted:If it has an LS/LT swap, then hells yes. You mean a 6.6 swap? 
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Oct 5, 2019 13:34
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Toe Rag posted:Do you have extremely bad credit or something? Used car are a little different but with new cars you can usually borrow at pretty low rates. I don't want to pay 30k+ for a car is all. I buy slightly used cars with cash. My current non-NA-Miata car is a 2015 golf sportwagen I let someone else eat like 16k of value loss on over 3 years.
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Oct 5, 2019 15:57
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ShaneB posted:I don't want to pay 30k+ for a car is all. I buy slightly used cars with cash. My current non-NA-Miata car is a 2015 golf sportwagen I let someone else eat like 16k of value loss on over 3 years. Yeah, but now you have the privilege of owning a cheap German car out of warranty.
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Oct 5, 2019 18:50
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Deteriorata posted:Yeah, but now you have the privilege of owning a cheap German car out of warranty. Yep, it's great honestly. Never change, AI.
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Oct 5, 2019 19:25
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My 96 hell Miata ended up not liking the new lifters. loving God drat piece of poo poo. They're deflated and not inflating. No oil pressure in the top end. The oil pressure sender shows pressure. I'm completely out of ideas. I've replaced the oil pump, and there's oil in the head, so I don't know what's working, what isn't
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Oct 5, 2019 21:44
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Maybe one of the oil passages is plugged?
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Oct 5, 2019 22:34
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Elmnt80 posted:Maybe one of the oil passages is plugged? Maybe? It doesn't help me that this is all that I can find on the oiling system. 
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Oct 5, 2019 23:34
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ShaneB posted:Yep, it's great honestly. 
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Oct 6, 2019 08:58
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Isn’t that the opposite of how you’re supposed to do it with German cars 
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Oct 6, 2019 19:10
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Anyone know what sort of balljoint splitter I should get if I need to pull all the arms from an NC.
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Oct 7, 2019 14:26
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track day bro! posted:Anyone know what sort of balljoint splitter I should get if I need to pull all the arms from an NC. Pickle fork and 5 pound hammer? also new boots if you do that.
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Oct 7, 2019 20:45
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BloodBag posted:Pickle fork and 5 pound hammer? also new boots if you do that. I mean I kinda don't want to do that because we're swapping a mint 15,000 mile subframe onto a car that spent most of its life in northern scotland. So I'm trying to get all the arms off the nice subframes without damaging stuff as it's almost brand new, the old stuff we didn't give a poo poo and just cut through the old arms.
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Oct 7, 2019 22:34
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I've not done that job on a Miata, but is it possible to whack the part the stud bolts through with a hammer so the vibration causes the joint to just fall out? I know that works on Jeep steering knuckles, but that's quite a different situation.
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Oct 8, 2019 18:31
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Generally not a good idea in case you mushroom the shank and gently caress up the threads. A fancy type of puller or separator is best. Pickle forks only if you dgaf.
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Oct 9, 2019 00:15
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He means hitting whatever the taper seats into, not the end of the joint itself - like smacking the knuckle to get a tie rod to release.
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Oct 9, 2019 02:34
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Suburban Dad posted:Generally not a good idea in case you mushroom the shank and gently caress up the threads. A fancy type of puller or separator is best. Pickle forks only if you dgaf. *Reminder that I have no idea what I'm talking or how a Miata suspension goes together. I should probably just be ignored entirely* If done correctly, the method I use shouldn't have you anywhere near the threads. For example, if doing a tie rod end, you'd whack a big flat section of steering knuckle away from the where the stud goes through. After a couple raps the joint should just fall out of the hole in the knuckle. I'm having trouble finding a video demonstration, but this is the closest I found. Note that he is much closer to where the stud goes through and risks deforming the hole. I'd be aiming several inches away, but the principle is the same. (Should start at 3:44) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NypleL4qrQ&t=224s I should probably stop giving advice based on different suspension setups now.
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Oct 9, 2019 02:35
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Tbf I've only really worked on mr2's which are mcstrut and only have a single balljoint I need one of these basically https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fRDaRw-Bpyw&t=259s
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Oct 9, 2019 11:13
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I should've bought this instead of my NC: https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/cto/d/portland-1991-mazda-miata-with-turbo-kit/6996878789.html
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Oct 11, 2019 02:41
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um excuse me posted:Maybe? It doesn't help me that this is all that I can find on the oiling system. Oil comes up through a restrictor into the head, and passes along the oil gallery to the HLA feeds and the cam bearings. Check the restrictor, and you can sometimes take out the plug in the head to check said gallery, also a place to check pressure delivered to the head itself.
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Oct 11, 2019 02:59
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That is helpful, thank you. I bought a cheapo oil pressure gauge to check output pressure. If that reads fine, I will move onto the restriction and galleries. Maybe just feed some mechanics wire through and see if it gets stuck on something that isn't a sharp bend? Anyone here ever successfully reuse a head gasket? I've spent almost $100 on head gaskets and can't keep replacing them every single time the head comes off.
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Oct 11, 2019 03:05
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When I was futzing with the Civic inward advised by Honda.Net thatbyiu could totally trace the head gasket on a sheet of cardboard and that would work for short term use.
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Oct 11, 2019 03:55
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Don't get me wrong, this is a temporary solution until I'm sure the engine doesn't have to be torn down again. With the exception of replacing the gasket. The gasket the car currently has probably has 3 miles on it.
um excuse me fucked around with this message at 10:38 on Oct 11, 2019 |
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Oct 11, 2019 10:32
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So I managed to get the radio kind-of installed by fabricating my own mounting bracket out of sheet aluminum. The other thing left now is to hook up the reversing camera (yeah I know, but it can be helpful to really maximize the range of motion when parking in very tight spots). Are there any existing holes between the trunk and the passenger compartment large enough to stick an RCA connector through? I'm hoping to pull this off without having to drill anything or ripping apart the interior. E: This is an NB mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 23:39 on Oct 11, 2019 |
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Oct 11, 2019 23:31
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um excuse me posted:Anyone here ever successfully reuse a head gasket? I've spent almost $100 on head gaskets and can't keep replacing them every single time the head comes off. The Sloppy Mechanics way to reuse head gaskets, at least on a LS, is to spray some copper sealant on it, reuse the TTY head bolts, and send it with 14 pounds of boost.
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Oct 12, 2019 02:59
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The 14 lbs I’d boost helps to seal it in place you see.
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Oct 12, 2019 03:08
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NB started to overheat on the highway, coolant was boiling in the reservoir. No leaks at all as far as I could tell. After it cooled down, I checked the radiator and it was still full. Was able to drive home with no blips on the temp gauge. Just a bad radiator cap? Note: currently my heater core is bypassed.
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Oct 14, 2019 21:05
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Elysium posted:NB started to overheat on the highway, coolant was boiling in the reservoir. No leaks at all as far as I could tell. After it cooled down, I checked the radiator and it was still full. Was able to drive home with no blips on the temp gauge. Just a bad radiator cap? Note: currently my heater core is bypassed. If the coolant is circulating and the thermostat is open but the coolant still boils, the problem is usually the radiator cap not keeping enough pressure on the system. You could also have an air bubble somewhere.
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Oct 14, 2019 21:08
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MOSFET went on my NC and holy hell this job looks like a nightmare, has anyone done it?
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Oct 15, 2019 07:18
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My oil guages keeps dropping on braking but my dipstick reads full :/ I've read the fake on off guages are bad and I'm pretty sure that's what mine is, 99 audm nb. Should I be concerned? It's not every time either, it's mostly when coming to a stop
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Oct 20, 2019 14:30
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I figured out it's when rpm drops. My oil was full when I left home https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVIB5WYq330
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Oct 20, 2019 18:06
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Yeah, all NBs have a fake gauge driven by a switch. I don't see how it would be possible for an engine to deliver rapidly fluctuating oil pressure like that, so I'd start by replacing the "sending unit" which is just a pressure-activated switch.
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Oct 20, 2019 18:21
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Could take a moment to swap in a 90-93 gauge that actually reads out pressure. You'd also need a same generation oil gauge to make sense of it.
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Oct 20, 2019 19:23
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um excuse me posted:Could take a moment to swap in a 90-93 gauge that actually reads out pressure. You'd also need a same generation oil gauge to make sense of it. 90-94 also he would need the sender also. underage - clean the sensor connector and/or replace it. Id also clean and tighten all grounds.
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Oct 20, 2019 20:41
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She, and I'll try clean out the grounds and reseat everything. Thank you If I see an na getting wrecked I'll see if they'll sell the guage
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Oct 21, 2019 01:07
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underage at the vape shop posted:I figured out it's when rpm drops. My oil was full when I left home Yeah even when you put in a real pressure sender and mod the gauge to actually show pressure like i did its not fluctuating like that while idling.
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Oct 21, 2019 10:36
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Installed a pair of cravenspeed door bushings today. No. More. Door. Rattles. Worth it.
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Oct 22, 2019 19:46
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Gone! Kastivich fucked around with this message at 17:04 on Nov 2, 2019 |
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Oct 27, 2019 16:35
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| # ? May 30, 2024 19:17 |
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OK I'm liking my NC better now with Koni yellows and progress springs/sways; it pretty gud. Why doesn't Mazda just make them like this out of the box?
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Oct 28, 2019 05:03
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