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Yeah, incandescent filaments welding is something that happens once, maybe twice before the bulb gets toasted for good. My bet is on bad contracts or dodgy relay.
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Oct 23, 2019 04:49
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What’s the best way to get a big fat pig like a Goldwing 1200 up in the air so I can get the front tire off? On the center stand it naturally tilts forward. There aren’t any good lifting spots since the whole bike is a big fairing. There has to be a way to service the front tire without a full bike lift
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Oct 27, 2019 19:58
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What’s the best way to get a big fat pig like a Goldwing 1200 up in the air so I can get the front tire off? On the center stand, then a small jack under the engine is the usual. Jack it until the center stand and rear wheel make a triangle, go hog wild. It takes bugger all force to tilt it onto the back wheel so don't worry about breaking stuff with the jack.
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Oct 27, 2019 20:04
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What’s the best way to get a big fat pig like a Goldwing 1200 up in the air so I can get the front tire off? But you can still tip it backwards right? I've just used bits of wood propped up against the sump, on a different bike though. Once I got the wheel off, it was balanced towards tipping backwards anyway.
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Oct 27, 2019 20:06
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Centrestand and sandbag the back wheel. Or fill the suitcases with rocks.
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Oct 27, 2019 20:37
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:What’s the best way to get a big fat pig like a Goldwing 1200 up in the air so I can get the front tire off? A-frame ladder over the front end and some ratchet straps should do er, no? e: obviously use the center stand for this lol
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Oct 27, 2019 20:53
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Help CA, I have done a stupid: I have given up on the cursed rear axle of my project CT125 and figured I'd just remove the whole bloody swingarm - can take it into work and let the machine shop have at it. I have been hitting it with penetrating oil every time I walk past it over the last few days to get it ready... it actually popped right out with minimal fuss. However, the punch I was using to bonk it out basically replaced it. Cool, I thought, I'll just hit that one out with another punch. Not having anything longer, I figured I'd rotate the one side of the swingarm out of the way so there was less distance to cover, so I could retrieve the second one easily once the first had cleared the frame. I was using two of my bigger punches (probably not all that big in absolute terms) and had assumed there wasn't enough room in there for it to get off track, so wasn't being diligent about centreing it. After making some decent progress, I think it has either gotten wedged to the side of the first one, or caught on a race or something. I can't really get either to move now. Have tried wiggling the swingarm and putting the bike on its side/upside down but hasn't done the trick. I've had to give up for now (lost daylight) but am open to some tricks or strategies to try to get these things out.
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Oct 28, 2019 07:59
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Third punch.
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Oct 28, 2019 11:10
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Help CA, I have done a stupid: Take the swing arm off. I don’t know what the answer is but this seems exactly like one of those things I’d do where it’s just a lot faster to take the swing arm off to deal with it and I would instead leave it on and try a bunch of stuff that doesn’t work and is more difficult because I left it on. Do you not have some huge locking pliers that you can grab the punch with and pull it out?
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Oct 28, 2019 13:09
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Ethics_Gradient posted:However, the punch I was using to bonk it out basically replaced it. Cool, I thought, I'll just hit that one out with another punch. Chris Knight posted:Third punch. "Don't throw good punches after bad punches." -- Ancient moto shop proverb
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Oct 28, 2019 14:50
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New solution - looks like it'll run you $30. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=ct125+swingarm&_sacat=0
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Oct 28, 2019 16:34
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Chris Knight posted:Third punch. epalm posted:"Don't throw good punches after bad punches." -- Ancient moto shop proverb Thanks for this, had a chuckle. builds character posted:Take the swing arm off. I don’t know what the answer is but this seems exactly like one of those things I’d do where it’s just a lot faster to take the swing arm off to deal with it and I would instead leave it on and try a bunch of stuff that doesn’t work and is more difficult because I left it on. Lmao, that is what I'm trying to do! The punches are effectively functioning as a swingarm bolt at this point. builds character posted:New solution - looks like it'll run you $30. I am actually hoping to swap this with an XL125 swingarm of similar vintage (before they went to monoshock) to pick up a pair of passenger footpegs. Once I get the CT swingarm off I was going to measure it and then contact the eBay seller to see if it'll be a bolt on replacement - the CT is a parts bin bike so it most likely is. I've got some small/medium ones, I'll try, but they were wedged pretty good.
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Oct 28, 2019 20:20
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Use the axle as a punch and begin again. Ouroborus
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Oct 29, 2019 00:01
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At this point you get the angle grinder out and start sacrificing poo poo.
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Oct 29, 2019 00:07
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So I was able to use my small locking pliers to yank the second punch out this morning before work - felt like it wasn't going to work until it did. Punch #1 isn't going anywhere though - the angle of the swingarm against the frame is holding it fast, plus the bit sticking out is smooth, slick metal that makes the pliers more likely to slip. I think my next move is to use a ratchet strap to pull the swingarm up and force it back back into its proper alignment - in theory the punch should slide right out at that point. Tried it by hand this morning but ran out of time, patience, and willingness to put more strain on my back. Slavvy posted:At this point you get the angle grinder out and start sacrificing poo poo. I'm going to huck that axle bolt into a volcano next time I'm in NZ.
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Oct 29, 2019 10:10
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Jazzzzz posted:https://www.tackform.com/ Thanks for the tips. I bought the Tackform one. I wanted to get the model that clamped to the handlebar but the left hand OE "clipon" didn't have any room to clamp to, and because it's a cable clutch I couldn't use the other variety on the LHS. So I'll be clamping it to the bmc bracket. A while ago someone had mentioned a product, some sort of metallic dye or paint you could put on gloves to make it touch sensitive. Does a product like that still exist? Also any product recommendations to add an all weather USB charging port would be cool, too, if it's not too complicated to install to. Switched power circuit.
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Oct 30, 2019 22:29
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MetaJew posted:A while ago someone had mentioned a product, some sort of metallic dye or paint you could put on gloves to make it touch sensitive. Does a product like that still exist? Yes, that stuff is still made - two varieties I know of, AnyGlove and NanoTips. Neither work well. Buy a pair of touchscreen-compatible gloves. Alternately you can take some conductive thread and sew a few loops of it into the fingertip of your current gloves. Adding a switched USB port is super easy, especially if you already have a switched circuit available to power it from. Most of the ones I've seen are 2.1-3.0 amps. I have a couple of different ones made by "Mictuning", a cheap Chinese no-name brand found on Amazon, that have worked without issue.
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Oct 31, 2019 19:38
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Jazzzzz posted:Yes, that stuff is still made - two varieties I know of, AnyGlove and NanoTips. Neither work well. Buy a pair of touchscreen-compatible gloves. Alternately you can take some conductive thread and sew a few loops of it into the fingertip of your current gloves. Just lick your finger.
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Nov 1, 2019 16:28
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I have two batteries and one battery tender. If I keep them both indoors and swap which battery is hooked to the tender every two weeks or so, would that do to keep them fairly healthy over the winter? I can buy a second tender but if setting a reminder to swap every two weeks is enough then I’ll do that.
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Nov 2, 2019 00:40
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Martytoof posted:I have two batteries and one battery tender. If I keep them both indoors and swap which battery is hooked to the tender every two weeks or so, would that do to keep them fairly healthy over the winter? That's more or less what I do. Maybe not as long as two weeks but I just move it around. Seems ok.
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Nov 2, 2019 01:19
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Hook the two batteries together in parallel (pick up some ring terminals and ~12ga wire) and the tender will just see it as one battery with twice the capacity and maintain it like any other. This will work for any number of batteries until the combined self-discharge rate meets the battery tender's capacity. Ensure that the batteries are within like a volt of each other before connecting them together. Otherwise the more-charged one will dump a ton of current into the less-charged one and make bad things with fire and melting and acid.
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Nov 2, 2019 03:22
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Sagebrush posted:Ensure that the batteries are within like a volt of each other before connecting them together. Otherwise the more-charged one will dump a ton of current into the less-charged one and make bad things with fire and melting and acid. I've repeatedly 'resuscitated' batteries so dead the charger can't pick them up by doing this, and the rate of poo poo catching on fire is well within CAFE-equivalent standards.
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Nov 2, 2019 05:04
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How much time/experience should I have on a new bike before I start loving with suspension settings? It's obviously "more than the 40 miles I put on it yesterday" and the MT07 only has rear preload and rebound damping to play with anyway. But what should I be paying attention to as I get familiar with how the bike behaves? Maybe I just need a 'suspension for dummies' article
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Nov 3, 2019 16:09
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FBS posted:How much time/experience should I have on a new bike before I start loving with suspension settings? Here is my serious advice for suspension. Go find a place you can run a bunch of times in a row that includes the terrain you want to adjust for. Whether that’s city potholes or hard sweeping corners. Start at whatever is recommended in the manual and run it a couple times. Then adjust a couple clicks and re-do it. Take notes every time.
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Nov 3, 2019 16:16
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FBS posted:How much time/experience should I have on a new bike before I start loving with suspension settings? One thing that isn't quite intuitive is that sometimes you make the bike more comfortable by adding preload and rebound damping. There's a proper way of setting preload by measuring how much the bike sags when you get on it, youtube will show you how. But if you aren't bottoming out, it's probably not too badly set. If it feels harsh or bouncy over sharp bumps, adding rebound damping can smooth things out.
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Nov 3, 2019 17:33
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Ride it until you have a grip on what changes you need to make 
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Nov 3, 2019 18:01
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FBS posted:How much time/experience should I have on a new bike before I start loving with suspension settings? Jim Silly-Balls posted:Ride it until you have a grip on what changes you need to make Ding ding, the adjusters were put there by Satan to tempt you into sin. Leave everything alone until you understand the phases of the corner and what in particular you would like the bike to do differently. You're miles and miles from needing to worry about this, especially being a new bike, just focus on yourself.
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Nov 3, 2019 18:37
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Slavvy posted:Ding ding, the adjusters were put there by Satan to tempt you into sin. Leave everything alone until you understand the phases of the corner and what in particular you would like the bike to do differently. You're miles and miles from needing to worry about this, especially being a new bike, just focus on yourself. This is true and good but if you have to mess with suspension, start by making sure it’s sprung for your weight and then set your sag.
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Nov 4, 2019 13:37
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Also, if you bought a used bike, I'd make sure you're back to the factory settings, as POs do dumb things and make dumb changes. Eventually, just start watching some Dave Moss videos, for example how he pushes on the bike at ~1:12 and the changes he makes in response https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0rADhaLYeA
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Nov 4, 2019 18:15
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I think this has come up before, but I can't remember the answers Are there any good motorcycle news sites/ youtube channels for stuff like what's getting released at eicma? I'd prefer not just straight press release reprint, or "we got flown to spain to test this new bike, here is nothing negative about it" but some level of journalistic work.
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Nov 5, 2019 09:54
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The problem with that is that I'm order to report on bikes not from a press launch while slightly hung over, the journalist has to negotiate with local dealers like Fortnine does, or otherwise obtain test bikes from the manufacturer. That means they can't report on upcoming bikes, just on released ones. And not on all released bikes, due to time and availability.
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Nov 5, 2019 13:12
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Electric question- The stator on my batteryless bike has two outputs for two separate coils - one for the main lights one for everything else. (Presumably so the lights still run if you overload the second one). I want to redo the hideous rat's nest of of a loom and possibly install a battery - can I run both inputs into one beefy reg/rec?
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Nov 6, 2019 18:41
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Shelvocke posted:Electric question- Are you sure it hasn't got a lighting coil and a source coil for an AC cdi? Got a wiring diagram? If they are genuinely for charging and lighting then yeah you could run them into the same rectifier.
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Nov 6, 2019 18:55
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FBS posted:How much time/experience should I have on a new bike before I start loving with suspension settings? You should set the preload. It's an easy thing to do and there is no reason not to. Keep rebound at stock settings unless you've got a good reason to change it. For just regular street riding I doubt you will find much reason to change it.
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Nov 6, 2019 19:28
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Slavvy posted:Are you sure it hasn't got a lighting coil and a source coil for an AC cdi? Got a wiring diagram?  I think that's two lighting circuits. Certainly how I interpreted the diagram and can't see how it would have 5 wired otherwise Shelvocke fucked around with this message at 20:15 on Nov 6, 2019 |
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Nov 6, 2019 20:10
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That looks like it has an AC cdi AND two separate lighting circuits. It looks like a pretty normal AC dirt bike system but with an extra DC circuit to run the indicators, horn etc. No practical reason you can't run all the lights off of one rectifier and effectively convert the headlight circuit to DC, but I suspect the two coils will have wildly different output for a given rpm. I'm not clever enough to know if a RR would give a poo poo about that or not.
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Nov 6, 2019 20:39
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Thanks Slav. I think yes probably re. the above and that's why I want to put a battery in to help smooth that stuff out
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Nov 6, 2019 21:13
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Steakandchips posted:I just got a new (to me) motorcycle. Regarding my bike above, I would like to: 1. Connect a Garmin 550 Rider GPS to it. 2. Connect some heated motorcycle gloves to it. Both of them come with little loops to connect to the battery's positive and negative terminals. 1. Since I'm connecting multiple things (2 at this point) to the motorcycle, is there some sort of "junction box" or something I should be wiring them to instead, and then wiring the "junction box" to the battery? 2. If the gloves and GPS are not connected to the bike, I'm not going to have my battery drained right (the wires/junction box will still be connected to the battery), when I am not riding it?
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Nov 7, 2019 18:19
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Steakandchips posted:Regarding my bike above, I would like to: In theory, the absolutely proper way would be to power those things using a relay(s) switched on and off by the ignition. In practice the draw from a GPS and heated gloves are pretty low and it's just a 125 so go hog wild and stick them on the battery directly. You may need longer battery terminal bolts but that's about it. Your battery can't drain if both things are unplugged when you turn it off.
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Nov 7, 2019 18:25
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1. Things like that do exist, but aren't strictly necessary. 2. Your battery won't drain if the accessories themselves aren't plugged in/turned on, correct. I will say however that the CBF125 has a pretty weak alternator that can't even keep the headlight fully lit at idle, so you might want to check the specs to be sure it's actually capable of supplying enough power to run those things and charge the battery at the same time, otherwise yeah, you'll end up with a flat battery. It's an easy bike to bump start though so even if that does happen it's not the end of the world.
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Nov 7, 2019 18:34
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