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Make a sturdy stair structure with a storage closet underneath.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 00:19 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:18 |
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guessing that house isn't in an earthquake zone
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 01:44 |
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Correct, no earthquakes worth a poo poo in Wisconsin. Just have to account for snow load and frost heave. If we got a legit earthquake so much more poo poo would be hosed. Anyhow, I am not interested in making a little shed out of it, just looking for structural advice. I originally wanted to run steps down the left side of deck- run along house, take a turn towards yard halfway down to help keep it tucked away. I discovered a tree was there, there's a large stump right where the posts for that would have to be, which is just left of the AC. That plan would have kind of covered that up nicely, but seems like a no-go. This 100% would have required 4 posts for the platform. falz fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Nov 3, 2019 |
# ? Nov 3, 2019 02:19 |
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Specific structural advice is one of those things that I don't think we're equipped to handle as an internet forum. It's one of those combinations of highly situational, requires a qualification, and is deadly if we get it wrong. We can give general suggestions (which have been given) but unfortunately it's on you from here either to engineer it yourself or hire a structural engineer.
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Nov 3, 2019 |
# ? Nov 3, 2019 03:44 |
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Strictly speaking as a structural engineer, to get down you need a zipline right there, and it should start from much higher up
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 03:50 |
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Basically that - you need a structural engineer to do the calculations and the advice is going to be specific to your area. Generally speaking, what you should expect to need to be done is the creation of a section of foundation in the area where you want to place the stairs, as all of the posts that hold the stairs up need to be on something solid. In California, since it's a seismic zone, that foundation creation would be difficult, as you would need to make sure it's completely connected with your existing foundation using a bunch of bolts, and you would likely need to retrofit the supports of your deck using bolts as well. Then you'd need to confirm sufficient sheer wall strength to support that in an earthquake. But you're not in California.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 06:42 |
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Thanks. The posts will be set in/on concrete 4' deep (instead of a cement pad) which is standard for our area. I'll check with some local building dudes and or maybe hire a dude. Or ya know cheap out, hop on it a few times and if it feels wobbly, add more posts!
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 14:20 |
Just stack pallets the the appropriate height, maybe add some nails for stability.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 14:24 |
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Fireman's pole or a slide would be a quicker install, op.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 15:17 |
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My house has old wood windows that each part, top and bottom, have 6 separate panes of glass with wood grilles between them. Like this: Is there any way to convert each half of the window to one large pane of glass? I realize in the past it probably made more sense to have individual pieces so that when one got damaged you could swap it out with less waste. However, that's not really a concern of mine. From an initial inspection, it looks like I might just be able to pop out the grilles to convert them. My reasons for wanting to do this are two. First, all the windows need reglazing and I would love to cut my workload down to a 1/6 of what it currently is. Second, the glass is really old and cloudy from being sandblasted over decades. The windows need all new glass anyway and once again, I would like to cut my workload down on that.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 18:02 |
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I don't see why not. FYI that type of window is called a "sash" window, so that might help with googling. Converting them to double-glazing is a common thing round here.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 18:19 |
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SpartanIvy posted:My house has old wood windows that each part, top and bottom, have 6 separate panes of glass with wood grilles between them. Like this: Yeah they make double glazed windows which have the decorative elements inside making it 2 easy to clean sheets of glass per section.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 18:33 |
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Legitimately, why not just replace the entire window?
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 19:07 |
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ntan1 posted:Legitimately, why not just replace the entire window? New windows are expensive. New glass is not. Thanks for the help everyone! There's a shop nearby that sells old windows from demos so I'm going to pick one up and try a refit on it first.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 19:48 |
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New windows would have the added benefit of double pane with gas to help insulate and whatnot. Unsure what if anything a single pane will really do. but yeah, not cheap.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 20:00 |
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SpartanIvy posted:My house has old wood windows that each part, top and bottom, have 6 separate panes of glass with wood grilles between them. Like this: Terminology-wise, windows are referred to as X over X where X is the number of panes of glass in the top/bottom frames. You have six over six windows and you want one over one. Might help you in searching for a new old window.
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# ? Nov 3, 2019 21:03 |
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People pay money for rattley old windows like that. Talk to that warehouse place about a swap???
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 00:41 |
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Just finished putting down the third coat of poly on my floors and even though I was wearing a respirator I'm fairly sure my IQ has dropped 10 points this weekend from the fumes. There were a lot of bubbles left over from the second coat that I don't know how I could have prevented. Oh well. It's done. Had to get two more gallons of poly so final cost is gonna end up being ~$650.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 02:51 |
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I have just bought a new house which is great and I love it but it's very different from anywhere I've lived before and I will need advice. It's newly built so we are making a snag list, nothing serious so far. The place is mostly built out of wood and a lot of the interior is unfinished or minimally treated wood. I think this is OK and it's very nice in lots of places e.g. (sorry for weird / lovely phots I was taking pics of all the lamp fitting spots) but it's also unfinished in the bathroom which is making me uneasy: Pretty sure back in the UK there basically would be no exposed wood in the bathroom, and if any it would be varnished to gently caress. But this is not the UK and I don't know if this is normal. It's up in the mountains so the air is going to be quite dry. Is this OK?? I want to put at least some wax on the bathroom wood. Most annoying thing so far is that some of the shutters don't quite close I guess because the wood has changed shape a little after they were installed. Also there are no light fittingsinstalled which is I guess normal but even the outdoor ones are just unfinished sockets and making me a little nervous.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 07:58 |
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The wood in the bathroom might already be treated; can you contact the builders and ask?
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 08:14 |
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Yeah we definitely can but I guess I'd like to have an idea of what would be the normal way to do it in advance. The building is under warranty and they seem keen to get stuff right so I think we should be able to get stuff fixed. If it's more of a personal preference then that would be up to us to sort.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 12:26 |
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The view from that window is incredible.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 12:37 |
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I'm a little more worried about the light in the bathroom that doesn't appear to have any sort of enclosure
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 14:03 |
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Sirotan posted:Just finished putting down the third coat of poly on my floors and even though I was wearing a respirator I'm fairly sure my IQ has dropped 10 points this weekend from the fumes. Were you using water-based or VOC? couldcareless posted:I'm a little more worried about the light in the bathroom that doesn't appear to have any sort of enclosure Loose wires are IP44, right? I'm sure knox will get to it.. knox_harrington posted:Also there are no light fittingsinstalled which is I guess normal but even the outdoor ones are just unfinished sockets and making me a little nervous.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 14:25 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:Were you using water-based or VOC? 450 VOCs babyyy https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-gal-Clear-Satin-Oil-Based-Floor-Finish-Polyurethane-130231/100192334 yeah my eyes are still kinda burning
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:08 |
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QuarkJets posted:The wood in the bathroom might already be treated; can you contact the builders and ask? Put a few drops of water on it. If it beads, it's treated. If it soaks in, it's untreated.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:10 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Put a few drops of water on it. If it beads, it's treated. If it soaks in, it's untreated. So, just pee on it?
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:27 |
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TTerrible posted:The view from that window is incredible. I know right DrBouvenstein posted:Put a few drops of water on it. If it beads, it's treated. If it soaks in, it's untreated. Awesome. Will do. Does it need to be treated?
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:32 |
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:o
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:33 |
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falz posted:New windows would have the added benefit of double pane with gas to help insulate and whatnot. Unsure what if anything a single pane will really do. but yeah, not cheap. Adding another pane will actually do quite a lot.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 15:55 |
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I'm not disagreeing they're not better in every way, but you're never going to recoup the cost of the windows in energy savings. Its a nice to have if you have to replace them, but it's still more practical to stick with whatever windows you've got. Does anyone know where I would go to find someone or a company that would cut all the panes of glass I would need. Cutting 156 small panes sounds almost as bad as having to reglaze them all. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Nov 4, 2019 |
# ? Nov 4, 2019 16:06 |
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SpartanIvy posted:Does anyone know where I would go to find someone or a company that would cut all the panes of glass I would need. Cutting 156 small panes sounds almost as bad as having to reglaze them all. I just googled a local glass company and asked for the float glass I needed.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 16:14 |
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knox_harrington posted:Awesome. Will do. Does it need to be treated? For a bathroom? Absolutely. The exception might be if it was cedar, since it's naturally rot-resistant, but in the picture you supplied it really doesn't look like cedar.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 17:15 |
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SpartanIvy posted:I'm not disagreeing they're not better in every way, but you're never going to recoup the cost of the windows in energy savings. Its a nice to have if you have to replace them, but it's still more practical to stick with whatever windows you've got. Any hardware store or glass company. They will also probably happily reglaze it for you, possibly for not all that much more money.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 19:18 |
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If I'm interested in determining whether replacing my windows is worth it or not, how would I go about doing that?
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 23:21 |
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The Wonder Weapon posted:If I'm interested in determining whether replacing my windows is worth it or not, how would I go about doing that? Worth it in what sense? Purely financially? It's not. You won't recoup the costs through fuel savings or increased house price. So really it's about your comfort and aesthetics. Newer windows have better sound dampening, draught prevention, and heat insulation, so they make for a more comfortable house.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 23:30 |
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My comfort is worth $$$ and yours should be, too.
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# ? Nov 4, 2019 23:34 |
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falz posted:Correct, no earthquakes worth a poo poo in Wisconsin. Just have to account for snow load and frost heave. If we got a legit earthquake so much more poo poo would be hosed. I think the 2nd option is way better aesthetically. If you have a small area blocked by a tree stump, maybe build a bigger landing? Or another small deck? Or grind the stump? The first set of stairs landing on a weird 2nd level slope is just... weird. knox_harrington posted:I know right Holy poo poo. Do you live in the Swiss Alps?
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# ? Nov 5, 2019 00:48 |
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Jaded Burnout posted:Worth it in what sense? Purely financially? It's not. You won't recoup the costs through fuel savings or increased house price. Purely financially it could be if your windows are very clearly out-dated and you expect that would lower the value of your house when you sell it. Or if the wall is damaged enough that not-replacing it would be a longer term problem. An acceptable basic window costs minimum $300-400, not including labor.
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# ? Nov 5, 2019 00:52 |
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# ? May 27, 2024 04:18 |
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knox_harrington posted:I know right Gorgeous view, where is it? Do you have a wood stove? RRRIIIICOOOOOLLLLLLLAAAAAA! Pigsfeet on Rye fucked around with this message at 01:16 on Nov 5, 2019 |
# ? Nov 5, 2019 01:12 |