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Hi! Just got back to painting after long hiatus. Warhammer underworlds was the thing that brought me back, but now I've also fallen for Warcry and I'm already drowning in plastic.  But! Here's a couple of skellies!  Bones on the Prince of Dust got sadly overexposed in this pic.  Also got the Orc warband fully done if you guys are interested in seeing them.
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Nov 5, 2019 00:11
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Chunkystyle posted:Hi! Just got back to painting after long hiatus. Warhammer underworlds was the thing that brought me back, but now I've also fallen for Warcry and Great job all around! That weathered yellow is fantastic.
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Nov 5, 2019 00:38
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Purple and gold whips rear end and the execution on that boney boi is 10/10 great job!
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Nov 5, 2019 01:58
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Chunkystyle posted:Hi! Just got back to painting after long hiatus. Warhammer underworlds was the thing that brought me back, but now I've also fallen for Warcry and This is good stuff. I want that skelly box
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Nov 5, 2019 02:02
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JackMann posted:Finished up a dakkajet today! Crossposting from the 40k thread.
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Nov 5, 2019 03:38
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these dudes is fun af to paint i like space wolves but something about shading buboes is incredibly satisfying
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Nov 5, 2019 05:46
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Count_Brass posted:Some cracking stuff posted recently! Alpha Legionnaire posing as a Black Legionnaire posing as a Hellblaster
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Nov 5, 2019 06:16
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im pooping! posted:these dudes is fun af to paint I need to paint like 20 more poxwalkers and I love them because you can just slop whatever color on there and it looks good.
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Nov 5, 2019 19:07
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 My first attempt at some dark skin tones. Still trying to decide on a basing to help it pop more.
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Nov 6, 2019 14:51
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if you’ve stuck your model (orks in this case) to your base with plastic glue, can you just slide a scalpel under each foot to cut them back off? or is that likely to gently caress things up real bad?
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Nov 6, 2019 14:56
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it's possible but you might lose a foot or a base in the process
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Nov 6, 2019 14:57
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jesus WEP posted:if you’ve stuck your model (orks in this case) to your base with plastic glue, can you just slide a scalpel under each foot to cut them back off? or is that likely to gently caress things up real bad? The plastic weld is generally weaker than the base materials. I do this all the time and it's generally fine.
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Nov 6, 2019 15:01
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i guess a more pertinent question is would it be worth separating 40 boyz and nobz from their bases to start applying texture paint, or should i just put up with the awkwardness of painting round their feet
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Nov 6, 2019 15:06
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TheBigAristotle posted:This is good stuff. I want that skelly box Thanks! They are one of the coolest box of skellies I've seen.
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Nov 6, 2019 15:21
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Played around with an Alpha Legion-reminiscent metallic scheme for my StD. Still unsure on basing. 
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Nov 6, 2019 15:24
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jesus WEP posted:i guess a more pertinent question is would it be worth separating 40 boyz and nobz from their bases to start applying texture paint, or should i just put up with the awkwardness of painting round their feet People like pinning on top of texture bases because it looks a bit more natural but I always just did all my basing when the model was glued right to the the base and it always seemed fine to me. I haven't tried certain kinds of specific citadel texture paint though, maybe it looks worse for them.
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Nov 6, 2019 15:40
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Deified Data posted:Played around with an Alpha Legion-reminiscent metallic scheme for my StD. Still unsure on basing. Chaos Warriors in the Old World came from portals at the North Pole. Cannonical basing seems to be grey ash waste, but snow would also look good and fit in with that fluff. Dunno how applicable that is to AoS though, if you care about that. I vote snow bases given the fur -lined capes and whatnot on the models.
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Nov 6, 2019 17:08
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Still relatively new to the hobby, but I've been practicing on minis for my group's game of Blackstone and feeling more confident as I go. Here's my take on Espern Locarno: (I really need a lightbox, the lighting in my basement is extremely warm)
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Nov 6, 2019 17:35
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jesus WEP posted:i guess a more pertinent question is would it be worth separating 40 boyz and nobz from their bases to start applying texture paint, or should i just put up with the awkwardness of painting round their feet try basing one first before you risk losing some feet
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Nov 6, 2019 18:18
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Skails posted:That guy is looking awesome. How did you do the marble on the coffin? It looks fantastic.
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Nov 7, 2019 00:05
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Black enough for Raven Guard armor? I plan to paint the face, some of the metal bits oily silver, ribbons an orange or red, the chest shield white (?), the right shoulder pad outline, and a little highlighting. 
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Nov 7, 2019 00:30
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Ropes4u posted:Black enough for Raven Guard armor? Too light. Try using Vantablack, then edge highlight with Abbadon Black.
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Nov 7, 2019 00:56
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Haven't painted in a while, been fairly caught up in assembling/building (and haven't been able to find any primers which I like, thinking I should just ebay some vallejo primer I can airbrush on). But I'll hope modelling progress is worth posting! First, the SoB Rhinos.      I made it so the accessories are nearly all interchangeable (those immolator canopies only fit on their corresponding rhino, some bits are in the way otherwise). Two ECM/com arrays, 2 immolator canopies, 2 turrets (with interchangeable guns), and several standard rhino top hatches. 7 Rhinos in total, so there's plenty of options to use.  During this I thought I would make a fun little side project and make a few small tow vehicles. Initially I thought I would make earthshaker artillery trailers, but that idea fell through and I'll probably just make these guys some little ammo and fuel trailers to haul around.  Decided my inquisitor would want a fancy ride for the hive city, so I based it off the...kfz231? Probably should have gone with the 8rad (but thought I was short on wheels until I found ANOTHER box with more after I was done building it). I just really like the profile of these things, and not too regretful since it still looks like a limo on steroids to me, though I need to "40k it" a bit more I think?  After the limo, I switched my idea from artillery trailers to just going fully mobile artillery. I might have hosed up on the profile of the chimeras (which are magnetised so the artillery top comes off and gets replaced with a standard top hatch), but I don't actually have "real" chimeras for reference so...whatever. I have plans for "AA" quad guns as an alternative top, but those are still sitting in pieces. My latest project has been to salvage this piece of junk.  About a decade ago I thought I would make an ork tank. I quickly burnt out and gave up - I was also very bad at scratch building. But what I had left was this comically huge thing made of 2mm thick sheeting (mostly I use 0.5mm sheet now), and it's solid enough to survive intact after half a dozen moves stuffed in a box. (weeks of adding junk and leftover bits later) I now have a...cargo jet...thing. My idea is an orbital lander meant to resupply ground forces, not really fight. Objective/scenic uses basically.    There's a bit of gap filling left, and I still need to fix/detail the back/tail/engines and underside. Very much still in progress, adding more junk to bulk it out. Magnetised the fuel tanks just to make painting easier. I haven't nailed down an exact colour scheme on stuff yet anyways, so having them sitting around unprimed isn't stressing me out too badly. While yes it is insane to build your own vehicles, I happen to like the fabrication of it - it's certainly not for everyone. But I like the process, I'm not concerned about having things done as fast as possible. I figure I've spent about $75 in material for all this, so that makes me feel better about the time it takes.
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Nov 7, 2019 01:05
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Redacted
Ropes4u fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Nov 7, 2019 |
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Nov 7, 2019 01:26
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VolatileSky posted:Awesome Stuff This is insanely cool, man. Making your own models rules. I wish I had the skill to do it. can't wait to see it all finished!
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Nov 7, 2019 02:10
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Hey guys, how would I glaze a mini without glazing medium? Do I just brush water on the mini and then paint a thinned ink down on it? I want to darken this guy's armor down a bit: 
Cricken_Nigfops fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 7, 2019 |
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Nov 7, 2019 18:34
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Still relatively new to the hobby, but I've been practicing on minis for my group's game of Blackstone and feeling more confident as I go. Here's my take on Espern Locarno: That's a good-lookin' astropath. I don't know if it's intentional, but with the colours you've chosen, and that "infinite starry void" going on inside his robes, you've got an intense 80's thing going. Maybe he's off exploring the Blackstone Fortress to gather experience for the prog-metal album he's writing 
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Nov 7, 2019 18:47
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Still relatively new to the hobby, but I've been practicing on minis for my group's game of Blackstone and feeling more confident as I go. Here's my take on Espern Locarno: This rules, especially the inside of his robe.
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Nov 7, 2019 18:51
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inscrutable horse posted:That's a good-lookin' astropath. I don't know if it's intentional, but with the colours you've chosen, and that "infinite starry void" going on inside his robes, you've got an intense 80's thing going. Maybe he's off exploring the Blackstone Fortress to gather experience for the prog-metal album he's writing Inspector_666 posted:This rules, especially the inside of his robe. Thanks, the 80's prog rock vibe isn't intentional but I've got a lot of Roger Dean, King Crimson, and The Metabarons hours logged, so I think it's mostly unavoidable at this point.
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Nov 7, 2019 19:51
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:Hey guys, how would I glaze a mini without glazing medium? Do I just brush water on the mini and then paint a thinned ink down on it? I want to darken this guy's armor down a bit: I would thin down the ink itself. If you don't have glazing medium you can use Future Floor Wax. Water might work if you don't thin it down too much.
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Nov 7, 2019 20:12
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Cricken_Nigfops posted:Hey guys, how would I glaze a mini without glazing medium? Do I just brush water on the mini and then paint a thinned ink down on it? I want to darken this guy's armor down a bit: You might not need any special mediums, lots of paints can be thinned to glaze consistency without any medium (some definitely can't though). The main trick for glazing is to have only a small amount on your brush so it stays where you put it. If you have a lot on your brush at that consistency it will end up acting like a wash and be difficult to control/pool in places.
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Nov 7, 2019 22:29
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When I glaze something it always wants to run to the edges. Like it still colors and hasn't separated by the very edge is noticeably more pigmented. Am I thinning it too much?
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Nov 7, 2019 22:40
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Crossposting an Airborne lad I'm working on. Zuul the Cat posted:Landed on a tabletop ready scheme for my Airborne. Following some guides I found online for 82nd Airborne in Italy & D-Day jumpsuits.
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Nov 7, 2019 22:50
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This has certainly been asked before but does anyone have experience with the Testors Snap and Spray Airbrush? I'm thinking of dipping my toe in the airbrush side of things and the 30 dollar price at Michaels seems about right but if it's a total waste the I won't bother. It's not even a cost thing tbh I just don't want to buy a compressor only to have it sit with the rest the junk in my basement.
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Nov 7, 2019 22:54
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For that marine, thin the ink with water on a small pallet, and optionally get a tiny bit of dish soap on your brush to help break surface tension. If your ink is pooling, you're probably just applying too much/loading your brush with too much. Try lessening how much you load your brush with so it applies more to just recessed areas. You could slather it on, but be prepared to sit there for several minutes with a brush to wick away excess that pools on the underside or too much in one area. Zuul the Cat posted:This is insanely cool, man. Making your own models rules. I wish I had the skill to do it. can't wait to see it all finished! Thanks! I would say don't let the complexity discourage you from trying though - it's more about being able to just measure and cut things fairly square. I think the best starting point is to make small boxes, they're surprisingly useful (ammo boxes for bases, missile pods, etc), and after making several you get the feel for how to get them even and reliably reproduce shapes in a size you want. Another Bill posted:This has certainly been asked before but does anyone have experience with the Testors Snap and Spray Airbrush? I'm thinking of dipping my toe in the airbrush side of things and the 30 dollar price at Michaels seems about right but if it's a total waste the I won't bother. I think you'll have issues with that style of syphon feed airbrush for anything beyond doing the basecoat and main colour, it's probably going to be too wide of a spray to really do fine details or highlighting on anything smaller than a vehicle sized model. I haven't used that particular type before, but even watching their promo material, it...is not a fine spray, and seems to have issues with spotting (I noticed how they don't zoom in on the test sheet, and it's noticeable from quite a distance away). I would pass on it/put that money in a jar for a gravity fed dual action airbrush, you can always "skimp" on the air compressor and find a used shop compressor if you can deal with the noise. Or just wait until you can find a used hobby setup. VolatileSky fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Nov 7, 2019 |
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Nov 7, 2019 22:59
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Another Bill posted:This has certainly been asked before but does anyone have experience with the Testors Snap and Spray Airbrush? I'm thinking of dipping my toe in the airbrush side of things and the 30 dollar price at Michaels seems about right but if it's a total waste the I won't bother. Something like that is really only going to be useful for base coating/priming if it even works correctly. And looking at Amazon reviews it doesn't seem fantastic even for that. A huge issue is that canned air just does not have good steady air pressure, so even with a real airbrush it's not going to give good results.
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Nov 7, 2019 23:04
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Cat Face Joe posted:When I glaze something it always wants to run to the edges. Like it still colors and hasn't separated by the very edge is noticeably more pigmented. Am I thinning it too much? It sounds like your brush might still be too wet. The pigment should be thinnest where you first put your brush on the mini and thickest where you remove it.
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Nov 7, 2019 23:41
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Cool thanks for the feedback, maybe a compressor is in my future
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Nov 8, 2019 00:16
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 Added a few base coats to my test piece. It looks better at table top distance than it does at eye loupe distance. Going to add some browns and start on the face and hair next. I saw a nice face based on administratum gray I might try. The other colors I have are pallid witch flesh and Vallejo dark flesh. Suggestions welcome..
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Nov 8, 2019 03:23
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Another Bill posted:This has certainly been asked before but does anyone have experience with the Testors Snap and Spray Airbrush? I'm thinking of dipping my toe in the airbrush side of things and the 30 dollar price at Michaels seems about right but if it's a total waste the I won't bother. The previous advice was 100% on point and I agree with it. Costwise you can get basically any Badger airbrush for 56 bucks if you wait for their birthday sale. Add an extra ten-twenty for a hose and quick-release link and you’ve got a top of the line system to play with just missing an air source. If you’re near Los Angeles you’re welcome to come try out my setup.
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Nov 8, 2019 05:08
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